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Knitting tension – See how to measure it and why here
Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here
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DROPS Snow 100% Wool |
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DROPS Needles & Hooks |
All measurements in charts are in cm.
Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS Baby 16-1) for measurements and calculations.
Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.
Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.
Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.
These step-by-step tutorials might also help you:
We have also step-by-step guides for different techniques which you'll find here.
1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?
Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.
The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.
The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.
See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge
See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch
All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.
3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?
The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.
Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.
See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?
4) How do I use the yarn converter?
At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).
If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.
5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?
The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.
Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.
See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge
See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch
6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?
Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.
The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.
Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.
9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?
The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.
When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.
When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.
See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams
10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?
The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.
When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.
When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.
When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.
The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.
See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams
11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?
Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.
The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.
See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams
See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams
12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?
Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.
14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?
It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.
See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)
15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?
To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.
See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately
16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?
Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.
Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!
17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?
Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.
See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open
18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?
Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.
See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?
19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?
Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.
It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.
The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.
20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?
If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.
Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.
21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?
All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.
Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding
Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:
1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.
2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.
3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.
4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.
22) Where on the garment is the length measured?
The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.
See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing
23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?
The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.
All measurements in charts are in cm.
With over 30 years in knitting and crochet design, DROPS Design offers one of the most extensive collections of free patterns on the internet - translated to 17 languages. As of today we count 299 catalogs and 11238 patterns - 11234 of which are translated into English (US/in).
We work hard to bring you the best knitting and crochet have to offer, inspiration and advice as well as great quality yarns at incredible prices! Would you like to use our patterns for other than personal use? You can read what you are allowed to do in the Copyright text at the bottom of all our patterns. Happy crafting!
Hola, podrían aclararme lo siguiente? - Cuando hago el punto Jersey y el punto de arroz en redondo, sigo incrementando el número de puntos cómo antes para que cada vez sea más ancho? - Cuántas vueltas o cuanta distancia se hace del punto jersey en redondo (antes de empezar el punto de arroz)? Gracias, es un diseño muy lindo 😊
21.11.2023 - 23:58DROPS Design answered:
Hola Natalia, el punto arroz se trabaja al principio (cuando todavía no hay aumentos) y al final (cuando ya se han acabado los aumentos). Mientras trabajas el punto jersey, irás aumentando como se indica. Trabajas 4 aumentos cada 2ª fila (o cada 2ª vuelta cuando pasas a trabajar en redondo) 15-17-18 (20-21) veces más (aparte de la 1ª vez explicada en el patrón, así que 16-18-19 (21-22) veces en total. Cuando termines de trabajar los aumentos, trabajar 1 vuelta en punto jersey y después comenzar el punto arroz.
26.11.2023 - 23:28I cant figure out how to put the booties together so they form a sock shape. Especially confusting is the garner stiches on both sides. HELP!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
07.08.2023 - 15:17DROPS Design answered:
Dear Mrs Dailey, these slippers are not worked like standard socks but they are worked back and forth from the toe (with 1 edge st on each side), then you will work each side of piece separately casting on new stitches for leg and with short rows towards mid back. Then you will sew these 2 pieces together under foot (beg/end of rows in stocking stitch) and mid back (cast off stitches). Happy knitting!
08.08.2023 - 08:59Chciała bym zrobić to ponczo z cieńszej włoczki np. Drops Baby Merino , jak przeliczyć oczka przy zmianie włoczki ?
31.07.2023 - 21:11DROPS Design answered:
Witaj Kasiu, jak chcesz pracować inną włóczką, będziesz musiała wykonać próbkę (w tym przypadku na mniejszych drutach) i na jej podstawie przeliczyć oczka na każdym etapie robótki. Zobacz kurs, który to wyjaśnia TUTAJ. Pozdrawiamy!
01.08.2023 - 11:16Hi, When I knit stockinette stitch to 9cm and then continue in the round do I need the rs or ws facing? I continued on a purl round with the rs facing out and it left a row of purl stitches which I can't see on the photo? Thanks, Chloe
08.06.2023 - 12:26DROPS Design answered:
Dear Chole, join in the round at the end of a row from right side, so that you will continue in the round, working all rows from right side. (remember to purl the 6 middle stitches ie last 3 sts on the round + first 3 sts) on the first round). Happy knitting!
08.06.2023 - 16:48Je vous ai commandé des pelotes pour confectionner le poncho. Je n'ai aucune nouvelle. Qu'en est il ?
07.06.2023 - 16:54DROPS Design answered:
Bonjour Mme Bliecq, merci de bien vouloir contacter directement le magasin auprès duquel vous avez passé votre commande, eux seuls pourront vous aider; retrouvez la liste de tous les magasins en France, avec leur coordonnées complètes ici. Bon tricot!
08.06.2023 - 09:17Guten Tag, ich möchte diesen Babyponcho mit Cotton merino meereskiesel stricken. Können Sie mir die Anleitung mit diesem Garn umrechnen bitte? Herzlichen Dank und beste Grüße aus dem Saarland
22.02.2023 - 15:18DROPS Design answered:
Liebe Barbara, wir bitten ums Verständnis, daß wir leider wir nicht jede Anleitung nach jeder einzelne Anfrage umrechnen können. Cotton Merino hier keine echte Garnalternative zur DROPS Snow sein - am besten benutzen Sie den Garnumrechner, so sehen Sie die vorgeschlagenen Alternative sowie die neue Garnmenge. Viel Spaß beim stricken!
22.02.2023 - 15:40Bonjour, je ne comprends pas les mesures… 11 m pour 10 cm mais on monte 37 m et ça devrait donner 17 cm … est ce qu’il y a une erreur?
09.02.2023 - 19:44DROPS Design answered:
Bonjour Nathalie, les 37 mailles montées correspondent à celles de la capuche que l'on va ensuite plier en double pour l'assembler en haut de la tête = soit 34 cm environ et 17 cm posé à plat. Si votre échantillon est juste, vous obtiendrez alors les bonnes mesures comme dans le schéma. Bon tricot!
10.02.2023 - 09:26I love this piece however I am finding it confusing when the pattern refers (in 3 places) to "mid front". Please help. thank you.
28.01.2023 - 00:55DROPS Design answered:
Dear Lisa, the mid front is the center of the front part of the piece. If you are working towards the mid front, then you are working towards the center of the front piece. Happy knitting!
29.01.2023 - 20:42Je ne comprends as vos explications Se tricote de haut en bas, en commençant par la capuche. Avec le fil Snow ou Wish et l'aiguille circulaire 8 monter 37-39-41 (45-47) m. Tricoter au point de riz Or sur la photo la capuche est en point mousse. seul le bas du poncho est en point de riz. Merci de bien vouloir me donner les indications exactes.
12.01.2023 - 23:00DROPS Design answered:
Bonjour Lena, on tricote au point de riz avec 3 mailles point mousse de chaque côté, autrement dit tricotez: 3 m point mousse, point de riz jusqu'à ce qu'il reste 3 m et terminez par 3 m point mousse, ainsi, vous avez bien les mailles point mousse que l'on voit sur la photo mais qui ne sont que les mailles de bordure. Bon tricot!
13.01.2023 - 08:46Hi after knitting the hood in moss St I change to stockinette St do I still do 3 garter St at both ends please
04.11.2022 - 12:57DROPS Design answered:
Dear Mrs Beard, correct, you continue back and forth in stocking stitch with 3 sts in garter stitch on each side - then you will join in the round and work in stocking stitch in the round. Happy knitting!
04.11.2022 - 13:55