DROPS Snow
DROPS Snow
100% Wool
from 2.65 $ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 15.90$.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

Little Peach

Set of knitted poncho with hood and booties for baby and children in DROPS Snow or DROPS Wish

DROPS Baby 16-1
PONCHO:
Size: 1/3 - 6/9 - 12/18 months (2 – 3/4) years
Materials: DROPS SNOW from Garnstudio
250-250-300 (300-350) g color no 30, pink

Or use:
DROPS WISH from Garnstudio
200-200-250(250-250) g color no 02, white fog

BOOTIES:
Size: 1/3 - 6/9 - 12/18 months (2 – 3/4) years
To fit foot length: 10-11-12 (14-16) cm [4"-4⅜"-4 ¾" (5½"-6 ¼")]
Materials: DROPS SNOW from Garnstudio
50-50-50 (100-100) g color no 30, pink

Or use:
DROPS WISH from Garnstudio
50-50-50 (100-100) g color no 02, white fog
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PONCHO:
DROPS CIRCULAR Needle size 8 mm [US 11] (60 cm [24"]) – or size needed to get 11 sts x 15 rows in stockinette st = 10 x 10 cm [4" x 4"].
DROPS CROCHET Hook size 10 mm [N/15] – for tie strings.

BOOTIES:
DROPS POINTED Needles size 7 mm [US 10 ½] – or size needed to get 12 sts x 16 row in stockinette st = 10 x 10 cm [4" x 4"].

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Snow
DROPS Snow
100% Wool
from 2.65 $ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 15.90$.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
GARTER ST (back and forth on needle): K all rows.

MOSS ST:
Row 1: * K1, P1 *, repeat from *-*.
Row 2: K over P and P over K. Repeat row 2.

INCREASING TIP: Inc 1 st by making 1 YO. Work YO into back of loop on return row to avoid a hole.
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PONCHO:
Worked from top down, beg with hood.
Cast on 37-39-41 (45-47) sts on circular needle size 8 mm [US 11] with Snow or Wish. Work moss st – SEE ABOVE – back and forth on needle with 3 garter sts – SEE ABOVE – each side.
REMEMBER THE KNITTING GAUGE!
When piece measures 19-21-23 (25-27) cm [7½"-8 ¼"-9" (9 ¾"-10⅝")] K 1 row from RS, AT THE SAME TIME dec 3-3-3 (7-7) sts evenly (do not dec on the 3 garter sts each side) = 34-36-38 (38-40) sts.
Insert 4 markers in piece as follows (as seen from RS): M-1 after 4 sts, M-2 after 13-14-15 (15-16) sts, M-3 after 21-22-23 (23-24) sts and M-4 after 30-32-34 (34-36) sts. Now piece are measured from here.
K 1 row from WS.
READ ALL OF THE FOLLOWING SECTION BEFORE CONTINUING!
Continue in stockinette st back and forth on needle with 3 garter sts each side towards mid front, AT THE SAME TIME on first row from RS inc as follows – SEE INCREASING TIP: 1 st AFTER M-1, 1 st BEFORE M-2, 1 st AFTER M-3, 1 st BEFORE M-4 (= 4 inc).
Repeat the inc on every other row another 15-17-18 (20-21) times = 98-108-114 (122-128) sts.
AT THE SAME TIME when piece measures 6-7-8 (9-10) cm [2⅜"-2 ¾"-3⅛" (3½"-4")] continue in the round in stockinette st - P the 6 sts mid front on first round, and then work them in stockinette st. After all inc are complete work 1 round stockinette st on all sts and continue in moss st for 4-4-5 (5-6) cm [1½"-1½"-2" (2"-2⅜")]. Work 1 round stockinette st and bind off loosely.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew hood tog at the top, sew in outer loops of sts top avoid a chunky seam.

TIE STRINGS:
Crochet a string of ch measuring approx 1 meter [1.1 yds] with 2 threads Snow or Wish. Thread string through row after the garter st on neckline. Tie a knot either end.
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BOOTIES:
Worked back and forth on needle from toe towards the heel.
Cast on 16-16-18 (18-20) sts on needle size 7 mm [US 10 ½] with Snow or Wish. Work stockinette st with 1 garter st each side until piece measures approx 4-4½-5 (6-6½) cm [1½"-1 ¾"-2" (2⅜"-2½")] – adjust so that next row is from RS.
REMEMBER THE KNITTING GAUGE! Now work 2 sts in each of the middle 2 sts (to make bootie wider at top of foot) = 18-18-20 (20-22) sts, P return row. Now slip the first 9-9-10 (10-11) sts on a stitch holder.

FIRST SIDE: Work remaining 9-9-10 (10-11) sts on row. Work return row and cast on 5-6-6 (7-7) new sts at the end of row – work new sts in garter st and work remaining sts as before = 14-15-16 (17-18) sts. Continue as follows: * 1 row on the first 5-6-6 (7-7) sts, turn piece and work return row, 1 row on all sts, turn piece and work return row *, repeat from *-* until piece measures 10-11-12 (14-16) cm [4"-4⅜"-4 ¾" (5½"-6 ¼")] where longest, bind off.

THE OTHER SIDE: Slip sts on stitch holder back on needle, K 1 row from RS and now cast on 5-6-6 (7-7) new sts at the end of row = 14-15-16 (17-18) sts. Continue as described for first side until piece measures 10-11-12 (14-16) cm [4"-4⅜"-4 ¾" (5½"-6 ¼")], bind off.

ASSEMBLY: Fold bootie double and sew tog mid back and under foot – sew in outer loops of sts to avoid a chunky seam. Run a thread round the toe, tighten and fasten.

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

diagram measurements
Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Post a comment to pattern DROPS Baby 16-1

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Comments / Questions (389)

country flag Mariano wrote:

Kim

25.05.2024 - 10:53

country flag Darrin wrote:

Cyrus

16.05.2024 - 17:43

country flag Gunilla Evaldsen wrote:

Hej med jer, Rigtig flot lille poncho, er det muligt at lave ærmehul, jeg kan nemlig se at Gladys fra United Kingdom har lavet ærmehuller, i så fald, hvor kan man finde opskriften? Med venlig hilsen Gunilla

09.04.2024 - 14:57

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Gunille, det har vi ikke i vores opskrift, så du må prøve dig lidt frem, ponchoen er strikket oppefra og ned, så det er nok ikke så svært :)

10.04.2024 - 09:47

country flag Gunilla Evaldsen wrote:

Hej med jer, Rigtig flot lille poncho, er det muligt at lave ærmehul, jeg kan nemlig se at Gladys fra United Kingdom har lavet ærmehuller, i så fald, hvor kan man finde opskriften? Med venlig hilsen Gunilla

09.04.2024 - 14:56

country flag Hélène wrote:

Bonjour. Puis-je tricoter ce modèle avec une laine plus fine. Si oui comment faire pour calculer le nombre de mailles/rangs. Merci de votre aide.

14.03.2024 - 20:59

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Hélène, vous pouvez effectivement adapter ce modèle pour une laine plus fine; vous devrez alors tout recalculer en fonction de votre propre échantillon à la fois en largeur et en hauteur. Bon tricot!

15.03.2024 - 09:22

country flag Nea wrote:

Ohjeessa kerrotaan käytettävän DROPS PYÖRÖPUIKKO NRO 8 (60 cm) – viittaako 8 tuossa puikon halkaisijaan, vai mistä tiedän sopivan puikon paksuuden? Kiitokset avusta

12.03.2024 - 19:12

DROPS Design answered:

Hei, puikon ympärys on 8 mm. Puikkokoko on myös merkitty puikkojen pakkaukseen. Lisäksi voit mitat puikot puikkomittarin avulla, niitä löydät kaikista käsityöliikkeistä.

17.03.2024 - 12:40

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28.01.2024 - 15:19

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24.01.2024 - 15:49

country flag Pascale Mangin wrote:

Je voudrais faire le baby 16-1,pour la capuche c'est 3 mailles point mousse en début de rang ou début et fin de rang?comme au moment des diminutions 3 mailles point mousse de chaque côté?merci pou votre réponse

26.12.2023 - 21:12

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Mangin, pour la capuche, on tricote avec 3 mailles point mousse de chaque côté, autrement dit, tricotez les 3 premières et les 3 dernières mailles à l'endroit tous les rangs, sur l'endroit comme sur l'envers. Bon tricot!

02.01.2024 - 08:36

country flag Natalia wrote:

Hola, podrían aclararme lo siguiente? - Cuando hago el punto Jersey y el punto de arroz en redondo, sigo incrementando el número de puntos cómo antes para que cada vez sea más ancho? - Cuántas vueltas o cuanta distancia se hace del punto jersey en redondo (antes de empezar el punto de arroz)? Gracias, es un diseño muy lindo 😊

21.11.2023 - 23:58

DROPS Design answered:

Hola Natalia, el punto arroz se trabaja al principio (cuando todavía no hay aumentos) y al final (cuando ya se han acabado los aumentos). Mientras trabajas el punto jersey, irás aumentando como se indica. Trabajas 4 aumentos cada 2ª fila (o cada 2ª vuelta cuando pasas a trabajar en redondo) 15-17-18 (20-21) veces más (aparte de la 1ª vez explicada en el patrón, así que 16-18-19 (21-22) veces en total. Cuando termines de trabajar los aumentos, trabajar 1 vuelta en punto jersey y después comenzar el punto arroz.

26.11.2023 - 23:28