DROPS Baby / 16 / 1

Little Peach by DROPS Design

Set of knitted poncho with hood and booties for baby and children in DROPS Eskimo

Tags: hood, ponchos, sets, socks,

PONCHO:
Size: 1/3 - 6/9 - 12/18 months (2 – 3/4) years
Size in cm: 50/56 - 62/68 - 74/80 (86/92 - 98/104)
Materials: DROPS ESKIMO from Garnstudio
250-250-300 (300-350) g colour no 30, pink

BOOTIES:
Size: 1/3 - 6/9 - 12/18 months (2 – 3/4) years
To fit foot length: 10-11-12 (14-16) cm
Materials: DROPS ESKIMO from Garnstudio
50-50-50 (100-100) g colour no 30, pink
----------------------------------------------------------
PONCHO:
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE size 8 mm (60 cm) – or size needed to get 11 sts x 15 rows in stocking st = 10 x 10 cm.
DROPS CROCHET HOOK size 10 mm – for tie strings.

BOOTIES:
DROPS POINTED NEEDLES size 7 mm – or size needed to get 12 sts x 16 row in stocking st = 10 x 10 cm.

Have you knitted/crocheted this or any other of our designs? Tag your pictures in social media with #dropsdesign so we can see them!

Want to use a different yarn? Try our yarn converter!

100% Wool
from 1.90 £ /50g
DROPS Eskimo uni colour DROPS Eskimo uni colour 1.90 £ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
Order
DROPS Eskimo mix DROPS Eskimo mix 2.20 £ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
Order
DROPS Eskimo print DROPS Eskimo print 2.40 £ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
Order
DROPS Needles & Hooks
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 11.40£. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
GARTER ST (back and forth on needle): K all rows.

MOSS ST:
Row 1: * K1, P1 *, repeat from *-*.
Row 2: K over P and P over K. Repeat row 2.

INCREASING TIP: Inc 1 st by making 1 YO. Work YO into back of loop on return row to avoid a hole.
----------------------------------------------------------

PONCHO:
Worked from top down, beg with hood.
Cast on 37-39-41 (45-47) sts on circular needle size 8 mm with Eskimo. Work moss st – SEE ABOVE – back and forth on needle with 3 garter sts – SEE ABOVE – each side.
REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION!
When piece measures 19-21-23 (25-27) cm K 1 row from RS, AT THE SAME TIME dec 3-3-3 (7-7) sts evenly (do not dec on the 3 garter sts each side) = 34-36-38 (38-40) sts.
Insert 4 markers in piece as follows (as seen from RS): M-1 after 4 sts, M-2 after 13-14-15 (15-16) sts, M-3 after 21-22-23 (23-24) sts and M-4 after 30-32-34 (34-36) sts. Now piece are measured from here.
K 1 row from WS.
READ ALL OF THE FOLLOWING SECTION BEFORE CONTINUING!
Continue in stocking st back and forth on needle with 3 garter sts each side towards mid front, AT THE SAME TIME on first row from RS inc as follows – SEE INCREASING TIP: 1 st AFTER M-1, 1 st BEFORE M-2, 1 st AFTER M-3, 1 st BEFORE M-4 (= 4 inc). Repeat the inc on every other row another 15-17-18 (20-21) times = 98-108-114 (122-128) sts.
AT THE SAME TIME when piece measures 6-7-8 (9-10) cm continue in the round in stocking st - P the 6 sts mid front on first round, and then work them in stocking st. After all inc are complete work 1 round stocking st on all sts and continue in moss st for 4-4-5 (5-6) cm. Work 1 round stocking st and cast off loosely.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew hood tog at the top, sew in outer loops of sts top avoid a chunky seam.

TIE STRINGS:
Crochet a string of ch measuring approx 1 meter with 2 threads Eskimo. Thread string through row after the garter st on neckline. Tie a knot either end.
----------------------------------------------------------

BOOTIES:
Worked back and forth on needle from toe towards the heel.
Cast on 16-16-18 (18-20) sts on needle size 7 mm with Eskimo. Work stocking st with 1 garter st each side until piece measures approx 4-4½-5 (6-6½) cm – adjust so that next row is from RS.
REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION! Now work 2 sts in each of the middle 2 sts (to make bootie wider at top of foot) = 18-18-20 (20-22) sts, P return row. Now slip the first 9-9-10 (10-11) sts on a stitch holder.

FIRST SIDE: Work remaining 9-9-10 (10-11) sts on row. Work return row and cast on 5-6-6 (7-7) new sts at the end of row – work new sts in garter st and work remaining sts as before = 14-15-16 (17-18) sts. Continue as follows: * 1 row on the first 5-6-6 (7-7) sts, turn piece and work return row, 1 row on all sts, turn piece and work return row *, repeat from *-* until piece measures 10-11-12 (14-16) cm where longest, cast off.

THE OTHER SIDE: Slip sts on stitch holder back on needle, K 1 row from RS and now cast on 5-6-6 (7-7) new sts at the end of row = 14-15-16 (17-18) sts. Continue as described for first side until piece measures 10-11-12 (14-16) cm, cast off.

ASSEMBLY: Fold bootie double and sew tog mid back and under foot – sew in outer loops of sts to avoid a chunky seam. Run a thread round the toe, tighten and fasten.

Diagram


Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS Baby 16-1) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

We have also step-by-step guides for different techniques which you'll find here.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

to top

2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

to top

3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

to top

4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

to top

5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

to top

6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

to top

7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

to top

8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

to top

9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

to top

10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

to top

11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

to top

12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

to top

13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

to top

14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

to top

15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

to top

16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

to top

17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

to top

18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

to top

19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

to top

20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

to top

21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

to top

22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

to top

23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

to top

Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (329)

Jeanetta 22.08.2019 - 22:06:

I’m attempting to make the booties, but I’m having a hard time following the pattern. Are there pictures of them before sewing together?

DROPS Design 23.08.2019 kl. 09:13:

Dear Jeanetta, slippers are worked sideways from toe to heel. You first work stocking st, then increase in the middle of piece and finish both sides separately casting on new stitches worked in garter stitch (leg) - the remaining sts will be worked in stocking stitch (foot) as before. And work short rows as explained. Happy knitting!

Gauvert 11.08.2019 - 13:40:

Il faudrait revoir vos estimations de laine. Pour le modele 2-3 ans, je n'ai pas eu assez des 300 grammes pour finir !!!!! J'ai dû recommander une pelote qui m'a coûté moins cher que le port !!!!!!

DROPS Design 12.08.2019 kl. 09:14:

Bonjour Mme Gauvert, votre tension est-elle restée la même que celle de l'échantillon tout du long? Ce modèle est très populaire et nous n'avons eu à ce jour aucun retour à propos des quantités, je suis désolée. Bon tricot!

Drica 21.07.2019 - 02:53:

Olá. Depois de ler algumas vezes para perceber bem, aventurei-me e fiz num resto de fio que aqui tinha e treinar. Mas como o aumento com laçada estava a deixar buracos muito grandes (mesmo seguindo a dica para os evitar), fiz outro tipo de aumento: ponto meia no mesmo ponto 2 vezes, ou seja, pela perninha da frente e pela perninha de trás. Agora é só fazer um poncho mesmo no fio que quero. Não queria usar lã, que outro fio sugerem?

Blanca 17.07.2019 - 21:17:

Este parrafo no tiene ningun sntido: AL MISMO TIEMPO, cuando la pieza mida 6-7-8 (9-10) cm, continuar en redondo en pt jersey – tejer los 6 pts del centro del frente de revés, en la primera vta, y, después, tejerlos en pt jersey. Me lo pueden explicar?

DROPS Design 25.07.2019 kl. 19:49:

Hola Blanca. La capucha y la primera parte del cuerpo se trabajan de ida y vuelta con 3 puntos en punto musgo (= cenefa) a cada lado. A partir de los 6-7-8 (9-10) cm (medidos desde el marcapuntos = desde el inicio del cuerpo) se trabaja en redondo y en la primera vuelta los 6 puntos de la cenefa ( = los 3 a cada lado) se trabajan de revés. Después toda la prenda se trabaja en punto jersey.

Lynn Beall 10.07.2019 - 06:00:

I do not understand the marker row. I have decreased from 41 st. to 38 st. on decrease row. The number of stitches between the increases on the marker row adds up to more than 38 stitches. What am I not understanding? Thanks for your help!

DROPS Design 10.07.2019 kl. 09:25:

Dear Mrs Beall, count the stitches from the beg of row: first marker after 4 stitches, 2nd marker after a total of 15 sts (from beg of row), 3rd marker after a total of 23 sts (from beg of row) and the last marker after a total of 34 sts (from beg of row). Happy knintting!

Rina 08.07.2019 - 16:32:

Making this pattern for the second time. Love it! So cute!

Kandi 05.07.2019 - 22:03:

I agree with Sherry, the instructions are not clear, got it through the hood and two knit rows, then the rest is very hard to understand! Is the cape part sewed up in back? Grrrrrr, so frustrated! Such a cute pattern,I give up!

DROPS Design 08.07.2019 kl. 11:25:

Dear Kandi, when the hood has been worked, you will now work the "body" of the poncho, after the decreases insert markers (for increases) and work now first back and forth until the vent mid front is done and continue then in the round after the vent, increasing at the markers every other round/row. Happy knitting!

Yassif 01.05.2019 - 13:45:

S'il vous plait es ce que : "tricoter les 6 m du milieu devant à l'envers au 1er tour, puis les tricoter en jersey" veux dire qu'on tricote le premier tour à l'endroit sauf les 6 mailles au milieu (à l'envers) puis à partir du 2eme rang on tricote TOUTES les mailles à l'endroit (puisque on tricote jersey en rond). merci

DROPS Design 01.05.2019 kl. 17:31:

Bonjour Yassif. Oui, vous avez bien compris. Quand vous commencez à tricoter en rond, sur le 1er tour vous tricotez à l’endroit, sauf les 6 mailles au milieu (à l’envers) et puis, à partir du 2eme tour, vous tricotez toutes les mailles à l ‘endroit. Bon tricot !

Cindy Blanchard 22.04.2019 - 01:33:

I love drops very much so. Please explain how to insert the chain in the hoody. Is it every other stitch or so? Tussen tak

DROPS Design 22.04.2019 kl. 13:16:

Dear Cindy, yes, you insert it between stitches, after every 2-3 sts. Happy crafting!

Aneta 20.04.2019 - 14:27:

Czy maja państwo „instrukcje” jak zrobić to ponczo ??? Bo to co jest w opisie jest koszmarnie nieczytelne !!! Nie wspominając juz o schemacie!! Ja robię swetry od dołu i dla mnie państwa instrukcje są bardzo nieczytelne

Post a comment to pattern DROPS Baby 16-1

We would love to hear what you have to say about this pattern!

If you want to leave a question, please make sure you select the correct category in the form below, to speed up the answering process. Required fields are marked *.