DROPS Karisma
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DROPS 47-10

DROPS Jumper and mittens with star pattern in Karisma Superwash

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DROPS 47-10
Suggest a name
JUMPER:
Size: Ladies: S – M – L
Men: S/M – M/L

Materials: DROPS Karisma Superwash from Garnstudio
250-250-300 (350-400) g color no 01, off-white
200-200-250 (250-300) g color no 44, light gray
150-150-200 (200-200) g color no 16, gray
50-50-50 (50-50) g color no 53, charcoal gray

DROPS circular and double pointed needles size 2.5 and 3.5 mm / US 1.5 and 4

DROPS clasps, Kari no 600, 3 pcs.
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MITTENS:
Size: M - L

Materials: DROPS Karisma Superwash from Garnstudio
100 g for both sizes color no 16, dark gray
50 g for both sizes color no 01, off-white

DROPS double pointed needles size 3.5 mm / US 4 – or size needed to get 22 sts x 30 rows in stockinette st = 4" x 4" (10 x 10 cm).

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Karisma
DROPS Karisma
 100% Wool
from 3.00 $ /50g
needles
DROPS Needles & Hooks

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. Convert from inches to cm here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, convert "crochet terms" here. See this pattern in British English here.
JUMPER:
Knitting gauge: 21 sts x 28 rows on needle size 3.5 mm / US 4 in pattern = 4" x 4" (10 x 10 cm).

Rib: *K1, P1*, repeat from *-*.

Edge: K 3 cm / 1" stockinette sts, P 1 row (= folding edge, measure piece from here), K 3 cm / 1" stockinette sts.

Pattern: See diagrams M1-M.6. 1 diagram = 1 repeat. The diagrams are seen from the RS.

Back and front piece:
The jumper is knitted round on circular needles and cut for armholes and neck split afterwards. Numbers in ( ) refer to men’s sizes.
Cast on 188-192-200 (200-208) sts on circular needle size 2.5 mm / US 1.5 with gray and knit 5 (6) cm Rib.
Change to circular needle size 3.5 mm / US 4 and work M.1, at the same time inc 52-60-64 (52-56) sts evenly on 1st row = 240-252-264 (252-264) sts.
After M.1 knit M.2 and then M.3 until piece measures 25-29-31 (30-33) cm.
After M.3 knit M.4 and finish the piece in M.5 – beg by arrow for appropriate size and knit M.5 over front piece = 120-126-132 (126-132) sts, beg at appropriate arrow again and knit M.5 over back piece = 120-126-132 (126-132) sts. Remember the knitting gauge.
At the same time when piece measures 37-41-42 (41-43) cm inc 5 sts each side (to be cut for armholes afterwards and not incorporated in pattern but knitted in stockinette sts).
When there are 46 rows left of M.5 - piece measures approx 48-52-54 (53-56) cm - bind off 12 sts mid front for split.
On next row cast on 5 new sts over the bind off sts – these are to be cut for neck split afterwards and not incorporated in pattern.
When there are 11 rows left of M.5 – piece measures approx 60-64-66 (65-68) cm - bind off the middle 14-16-18 (16-18) sts + the 5 sts to be cut at front for neck and finish the piece back and forth on needle.
Bind off to shape the neckline each side on every other row: 4 sts 1 time, 2 sts 1 time and 1 st 2 times.
At the same time when piece measures 62-66-68 (67-70) cm bind off the middle 38-40-42 (40-42) sts mid back for neck and dec 2 sts each side on next row.
Bind off when piece measures 64-68-70 (69-72) cm.

Sleeves:
Cast on 48-48-52 (52-56) sts on double pointed needles size 2.5 mm / US 1.5 with gray and knit 5 cm / 2" Rib, inc 6-8-4 (4-2) sts evenly on the last round = 54-56-56 (56-58) sts. Change to needle size 3.5 mm / US 4 and work M.1, M.2 and then continue in M.3 until piece measures 38-38-37 (43-43) cm.
At the same time, after the Rib inc 2 sts mid under arm 30-29-31 (31-32) times as follows: Ladies size S + L: alternate between 3rd and 4th round, Ladies size M and Men’s size S/M + M/L: every 4th round = 114-114-118 (118-122) sts.
After M.3 knit M.4 and continue in M.6. After 1 repeat of M.6 knit 2 rounds in gray and finish with 2 cm / ¾" reverse stockinette sts = edge for sewing on sleeve to body pieces. Bind off and knit the other sleeve.

Assembly: Insert a marking thread in the middle of the inc sts for armhole each side and mid front of body piece. Make 2 seams each side and mid front on your sewing machine, the first seam ½ st from the marking thread and the other one ½ st from the first one. Cut the piece between these. Sew shoulder seams.
Edge round the front split: Pick up approx 30 sts along the left side of neck split on needle size 2.5 mm / US 1.5 with gray and knit Edge – see above. Repeat along the right side. Fold edges towards the WS and attach. Sew the edges at bottom from RS with neat mattress sts.
Neckline: Pick up approx 73-79 sts round the neck on needle size 2.5 mm / US 1.5 with gray and knit 2.5 cm / ⅞" stockinette sts, change to light gray and knit 2 rows stockinette sts, P 1 row (= folding edge) and K 1 row. Change back to gray and knit 2.5 cm / ⅞" in stockinette sts. Bind off.
Fold the edge double towards the WS and attach.
Set in sleeves from the RS as follows: sew in the last row before the edge in reverse stockinette sts on sleeves to the first row after the seam in the sts for cutting on body pieces. Turn the jumper inside out and sew the piece in stockinette sts over the cutting edge on body pieces. Sew on clasps.
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MITTENS:

Pattern: See diagram M.7 to M.10. Diagram shows the pattern from the RS. Work the entire pattern in stockinette st.

Right mitten:
Worked in the round on double pointed needles.
Cast on 48-56 sts on double pointed needles size 3.5 mm / US 4 with dark gray and work 3 cm / 1" stockinette st.
Work next round as follows: * K2 tog, 1 YO *, repeat from *-* (= folding edge).
Work 3 cm / 1" stockinette st and now continue in M.7 (= 11-13 sts), at the same time dec 4-4 sts evenly on first round = 44-52 sts.
After M.7 work next round as follows: M.9 (= 5 sts), M.8 (= 17-21 sts), M.9, M.10 on the next 17-21 sts, (M.8 = upper hand).
Insert a marker in st 28-32 (= first st in M.10) to mark the thumb and now measure piece from here.
REMEMBER THE GAUGE!
When piece measures 1 cm / ⅜" inc 1 st on each side of st with marker on every 3 round a total of 6-7 times = 56-66 sts – incorporate the inc sts in M.10 as you go along.
When piece measures 6.5-7 cm / 2½"-2¾" slip the 12-14 inc sts + st with marker (=13-15 sts) on a stitch holder.
On next round cast on 1 new st behind stitch holder = 44-52 sts. Continue in pattern until piece measures 17-18 cm (3-4 cm left) and now dec on both sides of M.9 on every round by K 2 tog each side (= 4 dec per round) a total of 10-11 times = 4-8 sts left.
Cut the thread, pull through remaining sts and fasten.

Thumb: Slip the 13-15 thumb sts back on double pointed needles and pick up 1 st behind thumb. Work M.10, at the same time inc 2-4 sts evenly on first round = 16-20 sts.
Work 6.5-7 cm / 2½"-2¾" of M.10, on next round K all sts tog 2 by 2, cut the thread, pull through remaining sts and fasten.

Left mitten: Cast on and work like right mitten, but mirrored, i.e. insert marker for thumb in the last st in M.10.

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

symbols = gray
symbols = off-white
symbols = charcoal gray
symbols = light gray
diagram
diagram
© 1982-2024 DROPS Design A/S We reserve all rights. This document, including all its sub-sections, has copyrights.
What can you do with our patterns? You can share DROPS patterns online, using the pattern original picture, materials, name and number. But you are NOT ALLOWED to reproduce the complete pattern digitally in any way. Yarn stores are welcome to use the DROPS pattern database to promote the sale of our assortment. You can print out our patterns, make as many copies as you’d like. The only thing we ask is that you don't make any changes / additions to the original printed document. And that the patterns according to the DROPS philosophy are given out to the consumers for free. Editorials that wish to publish our patterns in printed books or magazines can contact us for more information. The sale of garments based on DROPS patterns is permitted as long as they are sold as single items or per order. Further commercial use of the patterns is not permitted. It has to be clearly stated that the garment is made based on a design from DROPS DESIGN. The use of clothing labels of which DROPS DESIGN forms part is conditioned by the inclusion of the following text: “A DROPS DESIGN made by …..”. The use of DROPS photos for marketing purposes/sales is only permitted in connection with the use/sale of DROPS products. The photos may not be cut or edited and the logo should be clearly visible.
We reserve the right to withdraw the permission for use of our patterns at any time, notwithstanding the reason.

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.  

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!
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Comments / Questions (19)

country flag Mima Suvalija wrote:

Navne forslag ' Stjernenatt' Er det mulig å få utskrifta på denne genseren tilsendt i posten?

19.04.2024 - 21:44

country flag Anna wrote:

Pour les mailles steek des manches, est ce que je dois les tricoter en gris ou blanc sur toute la hauteur ou cela depend de la couleur du motif?

08.02.2023 - 00:41

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Anna, vous pouvez les tricoter alternativement dans l'une et l'autre couleur par ex; au 1er tour: (1 m coloris A, 1 m coloris B)x4, 1 m coloris A et au 2ème tour: (1 m coloris B, 1 m coloris A)x4, 1 m coloris B - en utilisant les même couleurs que celles du tour. Bon tricot!

08.02.2023 - 09:10

country flag Nina wrote:

The quantity of Yarn is not calculated correctly for the medium size, I have not even finished front and back and need to order at least 5 more. Note that I am knitting with a regular tension and it is not my first time with this type of project! Please update the yarn quantity. Thanks

03.01.2023 - 03:19

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Nina, we are very sorry to hear that, can you please tell us which yarn you are working with and can you give us your tension in both width (stitches) and height (rows) as well as which size you are working (M woman or S/M or M/L man) - thank you!

03.01.2023 - 16:57

country flag Ingegärd Enroth wrote:

Var kan jag köpa Kari-hake nr 600?

15.12.2022 - 09:45

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Ingegärd, dem har vi desværre ikke i vores sortiment længre. Du kan søge på "hake och hyska" Lycka till :)

15.12.2022 - 12:11

country flag Emmy Peters wrote:

Ik heb dit patroon gebreid en de trui is prachtig geworden. Ik heb de aangegeven hoeveelheid Karisma gekocht, maar moest van alle kleuren bollen bijkopen omdat ik te kort kwam. Maar het resultaat mag er zijn.

09.03.2022 - 22:05

country flag Desiree Sundman wrote:

Hej! Kan jag beställa hakar till en norsk tröja av er? Kari nr 600. Skulle behöva 4 par. Hittar ingenstans jag kunde göra en beställning. Mvh. Désirée

04.12.2020 - 20:35

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Desiree. Vi har dessvärre inte hakar i vårt sortiment längre, men om du söker på google så finns det flera som säljer de i andra märken ser jag. Mvh DROPS Design

08.12.2020 - 07:48

country flag Josephine Skjoldbirk Andersen wrote:

Hej, jeg forstår ikke helt det som i skriver i jeres opkrift: Start ved startpil på M.5 - strik m over forstk, start ved startpil igen og strik m over rygstk. Husk på strikkefastheden Hvordan ved jeg hvor mange gange jeg skal strikke mønsteret? Betyder denne formulering at når jeg starter på M5 så er jeg i siden af sweateren? Jeg strikker sweateren i kvinde størrelse M altså 252m på en omgang Tak!

05.10.2020 - 15:48

DROPS Design answered:

Hei Josephine. Ja, når du starter med A.5 (ved pilen i din str) er du i siden, strikk da de 3 siste maskene av A.5, A.5 x 5 ganger og deretter 3 masker av begynnelsen av A.5 = forstykket. Gjør det samme når du strikker bakstykket. Sett gjerne merketråder i sidene så har du bedre oversikt. God Fornøyelse!

12.10.2020 - 10:29

country flag Anki wrote:

Hej igen, är det någon som kan hjälpa mig med hur ärmen ska stickas. Fråga enligt tidigare kommentar. :)

28.11.2019 - 11:41

country flag Anki wrote:

Hej, Jättefin tröja! Jag stickar tröjan i strl. S och får problem på ärmen. Först läggs 48 m upp (vilket är delbart med 24 enligt M1), sedan ska det ökad 6 m efter resåren, samt 2 m vart 3e och 4e varv växelvis. Detta går inte alltid jämnt ut med M1:s 24 m. Ska de ökade maskorna inte stickas in i mönstret? Tacksam för svar, Mvh, Angelica

22.01.2018 - 14:20

country flag Irene Westerlin wrote:

Hej....måske jeg kunne få oplyst hvilke blå farver der er brugt til sweateren billedet, der står "kun" de grå farver i Karisma. Men vil gerne strikke den i blå som billedet. MvH Irene

14.09.2016 - 18:41

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Irene. Sweateren paa billedet er strikket i de graa toner - tror det er lyset som gör den er lidt blaalig. Men du kan altid kigge paa Karisma garnkortet og finde blaa alternativer

15.09.2016 - 11:54

DROPS 47-10



DROPS Jumper and mittens with star pattern in Karisma Superwash

DROPS 47-10
JUMPER:
Size: Ladies: S – M – L
Men: S/M – M/L

Materials: DROPS Karisma Superwash from Garnstudio
250-250-300 (350-400) g color no 01, off-white
200-200-250 (250-300) g color no 44, light gray
150-150-200 (200-200) g color no 16, gray
50-50-50 (50-50) g color no 53, charcoal gray

DROPS circular and double pointed needles size 2.5 and 3.5 mm / US 1.5 and 4

DROPS clasps, Kari no 600, 3 pcs.
---------------------------------------

MITTENS:
Size: M - L

Materials: DROPS Karisma Superwash from Garnstudio
100 g for both sizes color no 16, dark gray
50 g for both sizes color no 01, off-white

DROPS double pointed needles size 3.5 mm / US 4 – or size needed to get 22 sts x 30 rows in stockinette st = 4" x 4" (10 x 10 cm).

JUMPER:
Knitting gauge: 21 sts x 28 rows on needle size 3.5 mm / US 4 in pattern = 4" x 4" (10 x 10 cm).

Rib: *K1, P1*, repeat from *-*.

Edge: K 3 cm / 1" stockinette sts, P 1 row (= folding edge, measure piece from here), K 3 cm / 1" stockinette sts.

Pattern: See diagrams M1-M.6. 1 diagram = 1 repeat. The diagrams are seen from the RS.

Back and front piece:
The jumper is knitted round on circular needles and cut for armholes and neck split afterwards. Numbers in ( ) refer to men’s sizes.
Cast on 188-192-200 (200-208) sts on circular needle size 2.5 mm / US 1.5 with gray and knit 5 (6) cm Rib.
Change to circular needle size 3.5 mm / US 4 and work M.1, at the same time inc 52-60-64 (52-56) sts evenly on 1st row = 240-252-264 (252-264) sts.
After M.1 knit M.2 and then M.3 until piece measures 25-29-31 (30-33) cm.
After M.3 knit M.4 and finish the piece in M.5 – beg by arrow for appropriate size and knit M.5 over front piece = 120-126-132 (126-132) sts, beg at appropriate arrow again and knit M.5 over back piece = 120-126-132 (126-132) sts. Remember the knitting gauge.
At the same time when piece measures 37-41-42 (41-43) cm inc 5 sts each side (to be cut for armholes afterwards and not incorporated in pattern but knitted in stockinette sts).
When there are 46 rows left of M.5 - piece measures approx 48-52-54 (53-56) cm - bind off 12 sts mid front for split.
On next row cast on 5 new sts over the bind off sts – these are to be cut for neck split afterwards and not incorporated in pattern.
When there are 11 rows left of M.5 – piece measures approx 60-64-66 (65-68) cm - bind off the middle 14-16-18 (16-18) sts + the 5 sts to be cut at front for neck and finish the piece back and forth on needle.
Bind off to shape the neckline each side on every other row: 4 sts 1 time, 2 sts 1 time and 1 st 2 times.
At the same time when piece measures 62-66-68 (67-70) cm bind off the middle 38-40-42 (40-42) sts mid back for neck and dec 2 sts each side on next row.
Bind off when piece measures 64-68-70 (69-72) cm.

Sleeves:
Cast on 48-48-52 (52-56) sts on double pointed needles size 2.5 mm / US 1.5 with gray and knit 5 cm / 2" Rib, inc 6-8-4 (4-2) sts evenly on the last round = 54-56-56 (56-58) sts. Change to needle size 3.5 mm / US 4 and work M.1, M.2 and then continue in M.3 until piece measures 38-38-37 (43-43) cm.
At the same time, after the Rib inc 2 sts mid under arm 30-29-31 (31-32) times as follows: Ladies size S + L: alternate between 3rd and 4th round, Ladies size M and Men’s size S/M + M/L: every 4th round = 114-114-118 (118-122) sts.
After M.3 knit M.4 and continue in M.6. After 1 repeat of M.6 knit 2 rounds in gray and finish with 2 cm / ¾" reverse stockinette sts = edge for sewing on sleeve to body pieces. Bind off and knit the other sleeve.

Assembly: Insert a marking thread in the middle of the inc sts for armhole each side and mid front of body piece. Make 2 seams each side and mid front on your sewing machine, the first seam ½ st from the marking thread and the other one ½ st from the first one. Cut the piece between these. Sew shoulder seams.
Edge round the front split: Pick up approx 30 sts along the left side of neck split on needle size 2.5 mm / US 1.5 with gray and knit Edge – see above. Repeat along the right side. Fold edges towards the WS and attach. Sew the edges at bottom from RS with neat mattress sts.
Neckline: Pick up approx 73-79 sts round the neck on needle size 2.5 mm / US 1.5 with gray and knit 2.5 cm / ⅞" stockinette sts, change to light gray and knit 2 rows stockinette sts, P 1 row (= folding edge) and K 1 row. Change back to gray and knit 2.5 cm / ⅞" in stockinette sts. Bind off.
Fold the edge double towards the WS and attach.
Set in sleeves from the RS as follows: sew in the last row before the edge in reverse stockinette sts on sleeves to the first row after the seam in the sts for cutting on body pieces. Turn the jumper inside out and sew the piece in stockinette sts over the cutting edge on body pieces. Sew on clasps.
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MITTENS:

Pattern: See diagram M.7 to M.10. Diagram shows the pattern from the RS. Work the entire pattern in stockinette st.

Right mitten:
Worked in the round on double pointed needles.
Cast on 48-56 sts on double pointed needles size 3.5 mm / US 4 with dark gray and work 3 cm / 1" stockinette st.
Work next round as follows: * K2 tog, 1 YO *, repeat from *-* (= folding edge).
Work 3 cm / 1" stockinette st and now continue in M.7 (= 11-13 sts), at the same time dec 4-4 sts evenly on first round = 44-52 sts.
After M.7 work next round as follows: M.9 (= 5 sts), M.8 (= 17-21 sts), M.9, M.10 on the next 17-21 sts, (M.8 = upper hand).
Insert a marker in st 28-32 (= first st in M.10) to mark the thumb and now measure piece from here.
REMEMBER THE GAUGE!
When piece measures 1 cm / ⅜" inc 1 st on each side of st with marker on every 3 round a total of 6-7 times = 56-66 sts – incorporate the inc sts in M.10 as you go along.
When piece measures 6.5-7 cm / 2½"-2¾" slip the 12-14 inc sts + st with marker (=13-15 sts) on a stitch holder.
On next round cast on 1 new st behind stitch holder = 44-52 sts. Continue in pattern until piece measures 17-18 cm (3-4 cm left) and now dec on both sides of M.9 on every round by K 2 tog each side (= 4 dec per round) a total of 10-11 times = 4-8 sts left.
Cut the thread, pull through remaining sts and fasten.

Thumb: Slip the 13-15 thumb sts back on double pointed needles and pick up 1 st behind thumb. Work M.10, at the same time inc 2-4 sts evenly on first round = 16-20 sts.
Work 6.5-7 cm / 2½"-2¾" of M.10, on next round K all sts tog 2 by 2, cut the thread, pull through remaining sts and fasten.

Left mitten: Cast on and work like right mitten, but mirrored, i.e. insert marker for thumb in the last st in M.10.

Diagram explanations
symbol = gray
symbol = off-white
symbol = charcoal gray
symbol = light gray

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