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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here
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All measurements in charts are in cm.
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= beige | |
= purple | |
= light green | |
= red | |
= green | |
= mustard |
Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.
These step-by-step tutorials might also help you:
Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?
Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.
The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.
The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.
See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge
See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch
How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?
The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.
Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?
The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.
Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.
See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?
What are the yarn groups?
All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.
How do I use the yarn converter?
At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).
If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.
Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?
Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.
It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.
The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.
What size should I knit?
If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.
You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.
See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart
Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?
The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.
Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.
See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge
See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch
Why is the pattern worked top-down?
Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.
The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.
How do I work according to a knitting diagram?
The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.
When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.
When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.
See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams
How do I work according to a crochet diagram?
The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.
When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.
When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.
When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.
The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.
See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams
How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?
Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.
The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.
See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams
See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams
Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?
The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.
Where on the garment is the length measured?
The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.
See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing
What is a repeat?
Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.
Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?
Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.
Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?
The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.
Why increase in the cast-off edge?
It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.
See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)
How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?
To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.
See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately
How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?
Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.
See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open
Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?
Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.
See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?
Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?
Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.
Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!
How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?
If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.
Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.
How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?
All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.
Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding
Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:
1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.
2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.
3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.
4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.
Why does my garment pill?
Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.
You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.
DROPS 49-1 |
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DROPS Cardigan with vertical stripes.
DROPS 49-1 |
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Gauge: 23 sts x 30 rows on larger needles in pattern = 10 x 10 cm [4" x 4"]. Long model: If a longer sweater is desired, knit as follows: Increase the measurements at armhole, neck and binding off by 14 (16-18) cm [5.5" (6.25" - 7")]. Finished dimensions = 70 (74-77) cm [27-⅝" (29-⅛" - 30.25")]. Increase the length of Pattern 4 to 63 (67-70) cm [24.75" (26-⅜" - 27-⅝")], then knit Pattern 5. Pick up approx. 35-45 more sts on the buttonband and knit 1-2 extra buttonholes. Increase the yarn amount 50 g black and 50 g beige. Pattern: See chart. (1 chart = 1 repeat). The pattern is seen from the right side and is knit entirely in stockinette stitch. Border: Knit flat. Knit 12 rows stockinette stitch, purl 1 row (on the right side, for the folding edge) and then Pattern 1. Body: Knit the cardigan in the round after the Border and cut steeks for armholes and at the center front. Cast on 259 (275-291) sts (includes 1 edge st each side)on smaller circular needles with black and knit Border. Change to larger circular needles and increase 3 sts at the center front - these sts + 1 edge st at each side = 5 steek sts and are not knit into the pattern. Join and place a marker at the join. Knit Pattern 2 once, then Pattern 3 once, then repeat Pattern 4. At the same time, when the work measures 29 (31-31) cm [11-⅜" (12.25" - 12.25")], knit the next row as follows: 5 steek sts, 64 (68-72) sts for the front, inc 4 sts (for the steek - do not knit into the pattern), 129 (137-145) sts for the back, inc 4 sts (for the steek - do not knit into the pattern), 64 (68-72) sts for the front. When the work measures 49 (51-52) cm [19.25" (20" - 20.5")], knit 2 rows black and then Pattern 5 and at the same time bind off for the neck at the center front: 14 (16-16) sts + the 5 steek sts. Then bind off at each neck edge every other row: 3 sts 2 times, 2 sts 2 times, 1 st 4 times. At the same time, when the work measures 54 (56-57) cm [21.25" (22" - 22.5")], bind off the center back 39 (41-41) sts for the neck. Then bind off 2 sts at each back neck edge on the next row. Bind off after Pattern 5. The work measures approx. 56 (58-59) cm [22" (22-⅞" - 23.25")]. Sleeves: Cast on 60 (60-62) sts on smaller double pointed needles with black and knit Border. Change to larger double pointed needles; join and place a marker at the join. Knit Pattern 2 and then knit the rest with black. After the border, inc 1 st each side of marker 32 (32-33) times: Sizes S+M: alternately every 3rd and every 4th row Size L: every 3rd row = 124 (124-128) sts. When the work measures 45 (44-44) cm [17.75" (17.25" - 17.25")], put 2 sts each side of marker on a stitch holder. Continue to knit back and forth on the needles and put sts on the stitch holder each side on every other row: 13 (13-14) sts 3 times. Now the work measures approx. 48 (47-47) cm [18-⅞" (18.5" - 18.5")]. Put all sts back on same needles again; join and knit in the round over all sts 2 cm [0.75"] reverse stockinette stitch for a seam allowance over the cut edge on the body, bind off. Assembly: Sew a marker thread down into the center of the steek sts at each side and the center front. Sew two machine seams around the marker threads, 1st seam = 1/2 st from the thread, 2nd seam = 1/2 st from the 1st seam. Cut up for armholes and at the center front. Sew shoulder seams. Pick up approx. 120-130 sts along the left front on smaller needles with black and knit 3 cm [1.25"] stockinette stitch, purl 1 row (from the right side - for the folding edge), 3 cm [1.25"] stockinette stitch, bind off. Fold the edge over against the wrong side and sew. Repeat along the right front, but after 1 cm [3/8"] make 6 buttonholes evenly distributed on the row (1 buttonhole = bind off 2 sts and cast on 2 new sts over the bound-off sts on the next row). Pick up approx. 120 sts around the neck on smaller needles with black and knit 2.5 cm [1"] stockinette stitch, change to beige and knit 1 row from RS, and knit 1 row from WS (for the folding edge). Change back to black and knit 2.5 cm [1"] stockinette stitch, bind off. Sew the sleeves to the body from the right side as follows: sew alternately a stitch in the last row of knitting on the sleeve before the seam allowance and a stitch on the body after the machine seam. Turn the sweater inside out and sew the seam allowance from the sleeve over the cut edge on the body by hand. Fold all edges over against the wrong side and sew. Sew on the buttons. |
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Diagram explanations |
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Have you made this or any other of our designs? Tag your pictures in social media with #dropsdesign so we can see them! Do you need help with this pattern?You'll find tutorial videos, a Comments/Questions area and more by visiting the pattern on garnstudio.com. © 1982-2024 DROPS Design A/S. We reserve all rights. This document, including all its sub-sections, has copyrights. Read more about what you can do with our patterns at the bottom of each pattern on our site. |
With over 40 years in knitting and crochet design, DROPS Design offers one of the most extensive collections of free patterns on the internet - translated to 17 languages. As of today we count 309 catalogs and 11629 patterns - 11620 of which are translated into English (US/in).
We work hard to bring you the best knitting and crochet have to offer, inspiration and advice as well as great quality yarns at incredible prices! Would you like to use our patterns for other than personal use? You can read what you are allowed to do in the Copyright text at the bottom of all our patterns. Happy crafting!
Comments / Questions (9)
Malou wrote:
Comment faire une boutonnière lorsque la bordure est double ?
11.06.2024 - 07:19DROPS Design answered:
Bonjour Malou, vous allez ouvrir les boutonnières 2 fois au même endroit, la 1ère fois sur la 1ère partie de la bordure, puis la 2ème fois sur la 2ème partie de la bordure, veillez bien à avoir le même nombre de rangs après la 1ère boutonnière jusqu'au rang de cassure et après le rang de cassure jusqu'à la 2ème boutonnière. Bon tricot!
11.06.2024 - 08:22Leah Frederick wrote:
I am trying to find the alpaca yarn to make this pattern. Are there substitute colors for those that are no longer available? The purple, light green and green are no longer sold. Thank you
05.11.2022 - 03:18DROPS Design answered:
Dear Leah, there are no exact substitutes so you can choose whichever you prefer. For example, you have dark purple (4400) to replace purple, there is a new pistachio ice cream (9030) that you could use to replace light green and you could use green grass (7238) to replace green. This is all a suggestion, since they are not exact replacements for these colors, but may fit the pattern. Happy knitting!
07.11.2022 - 00:24Marg wrote:
Directions say to knit pattern 2. All pattern diagrams are M1-M5. So which pattern is which please
05.05.2022 - 09:20DROPS Design answered:
Dear Marg, each pattern is called M.1 to M.5; you will find M.2 at the bottom of pattern just above the measurement chart - see last diagram, on the right side M.2 (= all the rows in the diagram) while you get M.5 on the left side (fewer rows). Happy knitting!
05.05.2022 - 15:10Daniele Trochon wrote:
Bonjour, Je ne trouve pas de correspondance entre les codes couleurs et le diagramme, par exemple pour le noir et le vert. Merci de votre aide
05.11.2021 - 20:55DROPS Design answered:
Bonjour Mme Trochon, nous venons de publier une meilleure version des diagrammes, plus lisible, ce sera ainsi plus simple. Bon tricot
08.11.2021 - 12:00Wilma wrote:
Begrijp ik het goed ? Als ik niet doormidden wil knippen dan is het gewoon een trui?
06.11.2019 - 09:01DROPS Design answered:
Dag Wilma,
Dat klopt, maar dan verspringt het patroon wel op het voorpand, omdat daar steeds de naald begint en eindigt. (Als je, zoals bij het vest er later een bies op zet valt niet niet op) Dit verspringen zou je dan bijvoorbeeld beter in de zijnaad kunnen doen.
08.11.2019 - 17:56Svanhild Karoliussen wrote:
Er det mulig å skaffe fargediagrammet til denne på nytt. Det er så utydelig at jeg vet ikke om jeg klarer å få det likt? På forhånd takk. Jeg har så lyst å strikke denne som mitt neste prosjekt.
28.09.2016 - 10:22DROPS Design answered:
Hej Svanhild. Jeg har spurgt om det er muligt at forstörre diagrammet. Hvis det kan, saa publicerer vi et nyt saa hurtigt vi kan.
28.09.2016 - 13:42Twila Sickmann wrote:
When do you bind off arm skeets? at the same time you bind off center front?
05.04.2015 - 18:04DROPS Design answered:
Dear Mrs Sickmann, steek sts for armhole will be bind off when you bind off sts for shoulder. Happy knitting!
07.04.2015 - 09:26Twila Sickmann wrote:
When you come to binding off center front sts do you start working flat and not in the round?
05.04.2015 - 15:23DROPS Design answered:
Dear Mrs Sickmann, that's correct, when you have bound off the mid 14-16 sts (see size) for front neck, you continue back and forth ( = flat) on needle binding off sts each side for neck. Happy knitting!
07.04.2015 - 09:20Jacqueline wrote:
Kan ik een video zien van hoe ik de methode kan leren,hoe je het vest na het breien moet middendoorknippen?
25.06.2013 - 14:20DROPS Design answered:
Hoi Jacqueline. Wij hebben hier een video voor. Kijk hier:
25.06.2013 - 16:47