DROPS Merino Extra Fine
DROPS Merino Extra Fine
100% Wool
from 4.55 $ /50g
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 13.65$. Read more.

Dream Plan Cardigan

Knitted jacket for baby in DROPS Merino Extra Fine. The piece is worked top down with raglan, garter stitch and stockinette stitch. Sizes 0 - 4 years.

DROPS Baby 45-1
DROPS Design: Pattern me-084-by
Yarn group B
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SIZES:
0/1 - 1/3 - 6/9 - 12/18 months (2 - 3/4) years
Child’s height in cm:
48/52 - 56/62 - 68/74 - 80/86 (92 - 98/104)
Child’s height in feet:
1ft/1ft8 - 1ft 10/2ft - 2ft3/2ft5 - 2ft7/2ft9 (3ft – 3ft3/3ft5)

Finished measurements:
Chest measurements: 44-52-56-60 (62-66) cm = 17 1/4"-20 1/2"-22"-23 5/8" (24 3/8"-26")
Full length: 24-28-30-33 (36-40) cm = 9 1/2"-11"-11 3/4"-13" (14 1/4"-15 3/4")
All measurements in charts are in cm.

YARN:
DROPS MERINO EXTRA FINE from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group B)
150-150-200-200 (200-250) g color 47, sage green

BUTTONS:
DROPS BUTTONS NO 521: 5-6-6-6-(6-6) items.

NEEDLES:
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 4 MM = US 6: Length 80 cm = 32”.
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 3 MM = US 2.5: Length 80 cm = 32”.
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 4 MM = US 6.
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 3 MM = US 2.5.
The technique MAGIC LOOP can be used – you then only need circular needle of 80 cm = 32” in each size.

KNITTING GAUGE:
21 stitches in width and 28 rows in height with stockinette stitch/42 rows in height with garter stitch = 10 x 10 cm = 4” x 4”.
NOTE: Needle size is only a guide. If you get too many stitches on 10 cm = 4”, change to a larger needle size. If you get too few stitches on 10 cm = 4”, change to a smaller needle size.

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Magic loop – See the technique here
Knitting tension – See how to measure it and why here
Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Merino Extra Fine
DROPS Merino Extra Fine
100% Wool
from 4.55 $ /50g
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 13.65$. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
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EXPLANATIONS FOR THE PATTERN:
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RIDGE/GARTER STITCH (worked back and forth):
Knit all rows.
1 ridge = knit 2 rows.

DECREASE TIP (sleeves):
Decrease 1 stitch on either side of the marker-thread as follows: Work until there are 3 stitches left before the marker-thread, knit 2 together, knit 2 (marker-thread sits between these 2 stitches), slip 1 stitch as if to knit, knit 1 and pass the slipped stitch over the knitted stitch.

BUTTONHOLES:
Work buttonholes on the right band (when the garment is worn). Work from the right side when there are 3 stitches left on the row as follows: Make 1 yarn over, knit 2 together and knit 1. On the next row knit the yarn over to leave a hole.
The first buttonhole is worked when the rib on the neck measures approx. 1½-2 cm = 1/2"-3/4". Then work the other 4-5-5-5 (5-5) buttonholes with approx. 4-4-4½-5 (5½-6½) cm = 1 1/2"-1 1/2"-1 5/8"-2" (2 1/8"-2 1/2") between each one.

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START THE PIECE HERE:

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JACKET – SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE.
The neck and yoke are worked back and forth with circular needle. The yoke is divided for the body and sleeves and the body continued back and forth. The sleeves are worked in the round with double pointed needles.

NECK:
Cast on 65-73-73-79 (83-85) stitches with circular needle size 3 MM = US 2.5 and DROPS Merino Extra Fine. Purl 1 row from the wrong side with 5 band stitches in GARTER STITCH – read description above, on each side. Work rib, starting from the right side as follows: 5 band stitches in garter stitch, * knit 1, purl 1 *, work from *-* until there are 6 stitches left, knit 1 and 5 band stitches in garter stitch. Remember the BUTTONHOLES – read description above.
Work rib for 2 cm = 3/4" and the next row is from the right side. Insert 1 marker-thread after the band at the beginning of the row; the yoke is measured from here!

YOKE:
Change to circular needle size 4 MM = US 6 and work from the right side as follows:
5 stitches in garter stitch, 1 stockinette stitch (band), 7-9-9-11 (11-11) stitches in garter stitch (front piece), 1 yarn over, knit 1 and insert a marker in this stitch, 1 yarn over, 9-9-9-9 (11-11) stitches in stockinette stitch (sleeve), 1 yarn over, knit 1 and insert a marker in this stitch, 1 yarn over, 17-21-21-23 (23-25) stitches in garter stitch (back piece), 1 yarn over, knit 1 and insert a marker in this stitch, 1 yarn over, 9-9-9-9 (11-11) stitches in stockinette stitch (sleeve), 1 yarn over, knit 1 and insert a marker in this stitch, 1 yarn over, 7-9-9-11 (11-11) stitches in garter stitch (front piece), 1 stitch in stockinette stitch and 5 stitches in garter stitch (band).
There are 4 markers in the piece and you have increased 1 stitch on each side of all marker-stitches for raglan (8 stitches increased).
Continue this pattern; work the yarn overs in garter stitch on the front and back pieces and in stockinette stitch on the sleeves – the yarn overs are not worked twisted, they should make hole.
Increase on both sides of the marker-stitches every 2nd row (each row from the right side) a total of 4-6-6-6 (8-9) times, then every 4th row (every 2nd row from the right side) 7-7-8-9 (9-9) times.
You have increased a total of 11-13-14-15 (17-18) times and there are 153-177-185-199 (219-229) stitches on the needle. REMEMBER THE KNITTING GAUGE!
Continue the pattern until the yoke measures 9-10-11-12 (13-14) cm = 3 1/2"-4"-4 3/8"-4 3/4" (5 1/8"-5 1/2") from the marker-thread on the neck.
Divide for the body and sleeves, working as follows: 5 stitches in garter stitch and 1 stockinette stitch (band), 19-23-24-27 (29-30) stitches in garter stitch, place the next 31-35-37-39 (45-47) stitches on a thread for the sleeve, without working them, cast on 6-6-8-8 (6-6) stitches under the sleeve, work 41-49-51-55 (59-63) stitches in garter stitch, place the next 31-35-37-39 (45-47) stitches on a thread for the sleeve, without working them, cast on 6-6-8-8 (6-6) stitches under the sleeve, work 19-23-24-27 (29-30) stitches in garter stitch, 1 stockinette stitch and 5 stitches in garter stitch (band).

BODY:
= 103-119-127-137 (141-147) stitches.
Continue the pattern back and forth (the cast-on stitches under the sleeve are worked in garter stitch).
When the body measures 11-13-14-16 (18-21) cm = 4 3/8"-5 1/8"-5 1/2"-6 1/4" (7"-8 1/4") from the division, increase 8-6-12-10 (16-20) stitches evenly on the next row from the right side (do not increase over the bands) = 111-125-139-147 (157-167) stitches.
Change to circular needle size 3 MM = US 2.5. Work rib, starting from the wrong side, as follows:
5 band stitches in garter stitch, * purl 1, knit 1 *, work from *-* until there are 6 stitches left, purl 1 and 5 band stitches in garter stitch. Continue this rib for 2-3-3-3 (3-3) cm = 3/4"-1 1/8"-1 1/8"-1 1/8" (1 1/8"-1 1/8").
Bind off with knit over knit and purl over purl.
The jacket measures approx. 24-28-30-33 (36-40) cm = 9 1/2"-11"-11 3/4"-13" (14 1/4"-15 3/4") from the shoulder.

SLEEVES:
Place the 31-35-37-39 (45-47) stitches from the thread on one side of the piece on double pointed needles size 4 MM = US 6 and knit up 1 stitch in each of the new stitches cast on under the sleeve = 37-41-45-47 (51-53) stitches. Insert a marker thread in the middle of the new stitches under the sleeve = start of the round.
Work stockinette stitch in the round
When the sleeve measures 2 cm = 3/4" decrease 1 stitch on each side of the marker-thread – read DECREASE TIP. Decrease like this every 3-3-2-2½ (3-4) cm = 1 1/8"-1 1/8"-3/4"-1" (1 1/8"-1 1/2") a total of 2-3-5-5 (5-5) times = 33-35-35-37 (41-43) stitches.
When the sleeve measures 9-11-12-14 (18-22) cm = 3 1/2"-4 3/8"-4 3/4"-5 1/2" (7"-8 3/4") from the division increase 5-5-5-5 (3-5) stitches evenly spaced = 38-40-40-42 (44-48) stitches. Change to double pointed needles size 3 MM = US 2.5 and work rib (knit 1, purl 1) for 2-2-3-3 (3-3) cm = 3/4"-3/4"-1 1/8"-1 1/8" (1 1/8"-1 1/8"). Bind off with knit over knit and purl over purl. The sleeve measures approx. 11-13-15-17 (21-25) cm = 4 3/8"-5 1/8"-6"-6 3/4" (8 1/4"-9 3/4") from the division.
Work the other sleeve in the same way.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew the buttons onto the left band.

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

diagram measurements

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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JoWheelerknits

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Magdalena, Germany

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Comments / Questions (7)

country flag Bääbi wrote:

Ich würde gerne Dream Plan Cadigan Strickanleitung in der Garngruppe A stricken. wie kann ich das umrechnen.

07.02.2024 - 14:23

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Bääbi, hier finder Sie unsere Jacke für Garngruppe A, sicher kann das Ihnen helfen. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

08.02.2024 - 08:24

country flag Anke wrote:

Welchen Durchmesser sollen die Knöpfe haben? Ich konnte den Originalknopf nicht mehr finden. Danke.

23.11.2023 - 12:37

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Anke, diese Knöpfe sind 15 mm - siehe hier. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

23.11.2023 - 15:40

country flag Marilyn Davies wrote:

I'm trying to download free pattern but it's not coming through,what am I doing wrong??

03.11.2023 - 09:23

DROPS Design answered:

Hi Marilyn Davies! Sometimes internet connection interferes downloading. Try again later. Instead of printing you can save it as PDF document. Happy knitting!

03.11.2023 - 12:56

country flag Anni Larsen wrote:

Hvorfor skal der tages 16 m ud ved str 2 når du næsten er færdig og nået til rib

22.06.2023 - 13:45

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Anni, det gør vi for at ribben ikke skal trække arbejdet for meget sammen, i og med vi går et pindenummer ned til ribben :)

22.06.2023 - 13:49

country flag Hélène Gervais wrote:

Si je comprends bien ce modèle ne se tricotte pas en rond malgré les aiguilles ciculaires, il y aura donc des coutures pour assembler le gilet

13.05.2023 - 18:37

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Gervais, il n'y aura pas de couture car on va tricoter l'empiècement de haut en bas, puis diviser pour mettre les manches en attente et terminer le dos et les devants jusqu'en bas du gilet, et on tricote ensuite les manches séparément en rond. Bon tricot!

15.05.2023 - 13:27

country flag Gunilla Holmgren Schmieg wrote:

Jag har klurat ut själv hur det menas.

03.04.2023 - 12:30

DROPS Design answered:

Toppen Gunilla :)

13.04.2023 - 10:58

country flag Gunilla Holmgren Schmieg wrote:

Tänkte sticka denna tröja storlek 1/3 månader. Är det verkligen rätt att det ska vara ojämt antal maskor? Det ska ju stickas 5 maskor i vardera kant i rätstickning plus 1 rätmaska i varje kant. Då har jag ju ojämt antal maskor när jag stickar resårstickning.

02.04.2023 - 16:04

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Gunilla, hvis du har ujævnt antal masker får du en vrang på hver side mod retmasken foran :)

13.04.2023 - 10:37