Winter Berry Cardigan by DROPS Design

Knitted jacket in DROPS Air. The piece is worked top down with raglan, bobbles and double bands. Sizes S - XXXL.

Keywords: assembly free, bobble, jacket, long sleeves, raglan, round neck, top down

DROPS 235-29
DROPS Design: Pattern ai-415
Yarn group C or A + A
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SIZES:
S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL

Finished measurements:
Chest measurements: 94-100-108-118-130-142 cm = 37"-39 3/8"-42 1/2"-46 1/2"-51 1/4"-55 3/4"
Full length: 52-54-56-58-60-62 cm = 20 1/2"-21 1/4"-22"-22 3/4"-23 5/8"-24 3/8"
All measurements in charts are in cm.

MATERIALS:
DROPS AIR from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group C)
300-300-350-350-400-450 g color 35, clay

DROPS BUTTONS NO 515: 6-6-6-6-7-7 items.

NEEDLES:
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 5.5 MM = US 9: Length 80 cm = 32”.
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 5 MM = US 8: Length 80 cm = 32”
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 4 MM = US 6: Length 80 cm = 32”.
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 5.5 MM = US 9.
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 4 MM = US 6.
The technique MAGIC LOOP can be used – you then only need circular needle of 80 cm = 32” in each size.

KNITTING GAUGE:
16 stitches in width and 20 rows in height with stockinette stitch = 10 x 10 cm = 4” x 4”.
NOTE: Needle size is only a guide. If you get too many stitches on 10 cm = 4”, change to a larger needle size. If you get too few stitches on 10 cm = 4”, change to a smaller needle size.

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Magic loop – See the technique here
Knitting tension – See how to measure it and why here
Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Air
65% Alpaca, 28% Polyamide, 7% Wool

from 6.45 $ /50g

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DROPS Needles & Hooks

You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 38.70$. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.

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EXPLANATIONS FOR THE PATTERN:
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PATTERN:
See diagram A.1.
The diagram shows all rows in the pattern from the right side.

RIDGE/GARTER STITCH (worked back and forth):
Knit all rows.
1 ridge = knit 2 rows.

DECREASE TIP (for sleeves):
Decrease 1 stitch on either side of the marker as follows: Work until there are 3 stitches left before the marker, knit 2 together, knit 2 (marker sits between these 2 stitches), slip 1 stitch as if to knit, knit 1 and pass the slipped stitch over the knitted stitch.
BUTTONHOLES:
Work buttonholes on the right band as follows: Work the first 6 stitches as before, turn and work back and forth over these stitches 2 more times (last row from the right side). Cut the strand.
Work 4 rows as before over the remaining 6 band stitches (first row from the right side) and work the last stitch together with the next stitch on the jacket as before. On the last row from the wrong side work all the band stitches as before.
Work the buttonholes when the band measures:
S: 4, 13, 22, 31, 40 and 48 cm = 1 1/2", 5 1/8", 8 3/4", 12 1/4", 15 3/4" and 19".
M: 4, 14, 23, 33, 41 and 50 cm = 1 1/2", 5 1/2", 9", 13", 16 1/8" and 19 3/4".
L: 4, 14, 24, 34, 43 and 52 cm = 1 1/2", 5 1/2", 9 1/2", 13 3/8", 17" and 20 1/2".
XL: 6, 16, 26, 36, 45 and 54 cm = 2 3/8", 6 1/4", 10 1/4", 14 1/4", 17 3/4" and 21 1/4".
XXL: 4, 13, 22, 31, 40, 48 and 56 cm = 1 1/2", 5 1/8", 8 3/4", 12 1/4", 15 3/4", 19" and 22".
XXXL: 5, 14, 23, 32, 41, 50 and 58 cm = 2", 5 1/2", 9", 12 1/2", 16 1/8", 19 3/4" and 22 3/4".

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START THE PIECE HERE:

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JACKET – SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE.
The neck and yoke are worked back and forth, top down. The yoke is divided for body and sleeves and the body continued back and forth with circular needle. The sleeves are worked in the round with double pointed needles.
Stitches are knitted up the front pieces and the double bands are worked to finish.

DOUBLE NECK:
Cast on 80-84-88-92-96-100 stitches with DROPS Air using 2 circular needles size 4mm and 5.5 MM = US 9 held together.
Remove the needle size 5.5 MM = US 9 and continue with needle size 4 MM = US 6 (this gives you an elastic cast-on edge). Purl 1 row from the wrong side.
Work rib as follows from the right side:
1 edge stitch in GARTER STITCH – read description above, * purl 2, knit 2 *, work from *-* until there are 3 stitches left, purl 2 and 1 edge stitch in garter stitch. When the rib measures 9 cm = 3 1/2", fold the neck double to the inside and knit the next row from the right side AT THE SAME TIME as every 2nd stitch is knitted together with every 2nd stitch from the cast-on edge. You now have a double neck.
Change to short circular needle size 5.5 MM = US 9. Insert a marker after the edge stitch; the yoke is measured from this marker!

YOKE:
Purl 1 row from the wrong side and increase 0-10-22-0-14-38 stitches evenly spaced = 80-94-110-92-110-138 stitches.
Work the next row from the right side as follows:
1 edge stitch in garter stitch, knit 8-12-16-11-16-23 (front piece), work A.1, knit 12 (sleeve), work A.1, knit 18-24-32-24-32-46 (back piece), work A.1, knit 12 (sleeve), work A.1, knit 8-12-16-11-16-23 and 1 edge stitch in garter stitch (front piece). Continue this pattern. REMEMBER THE KNITTING GAUGE!
When A.1 has been completed in height, repeat A.1 over the middle 5 stitches in previous A.1. All other stitches are worked in stockinette stitch.
When A.1 has been worked a total of 3-3-3-4-4-4 times in height there are 224-238-254-284-302-330 stitches.
Continue with stockinette stitch and 1 edge stitch in garter stitch on each side until the yoke measures 19-21-23-25-27-29 cm = 7 1/2"-8 1/4"-9"-9 3/4"-10 5/8"-11 3/8" from the marker.
Divide for the body and sleeves as follows:
Work 34-37-39-43-47-52 stitches, place the next 44-46-50-56-58-62 stitches on a thread for the sleeve, cast on 8-8-10-10-12-12 stitches under the sleeve, work 68-72-76-86-92-102 stitches, place the next 44-46-50-56-58-62 stitches on a thread for the sleeve, cast on 8-8-10-10-12-12 stitches under the sleeve, work the last 34-37-39-43-47-52 stitches.

BODY:
= 152-162-174-192-210-230 stitches.
Continue with stockinette stitch and 1 edge stitch in garter stitch on each side for a further 24 cm = 9 1/2". Increase 20-22-22-24-26-30 stitches evenly on the next row from the right side = 172-184-196-216-236-260 stitches.
Change to circular needle size 4 MM = US 6 and work rib from the wrong side as follows:
1 edge stitch in garter stitch, * knit 2, purl 2*, work from *-* until there are 3 stitches left, knit 2 and 1 edge stitch in garter stitch.
Continue this rib for 5 cm = 2". Bind off.

SLEEVES:
Place the 44-46-50-56-58-62 stitches from the thread on the one side of the piece on double pointed needles size 5.5 MM = US 9 and knit up 1 stitch in each of the 8-8-10-10-12-12 stitches cast on under the sleeve = 52-54-60-66-70-74 stitches. Insert a marker in the middle of the new stitches under the sleeve.
Work stockinette stitch in the round for 2 cm = 3/4". Now decrease 2 stitches under the sleeve – read DECREASE TIP. Decrease like this every 6-6-3½-2-2-1½ cm = 2 3/8"-2 3/8"-1 1/4"-3/4"-3/4"-1/2" a total of 5-5-7-9-11-12 times = 42-44-46-48-48-50 stitches.
When the sleeve measures 29-28-26-25-23-21 cm = 11 3/8"-11"-10 1/4"-9 3/4"-9"-8 1/4" from the division, increase 6-4-6-4-4-6 stitches evenly spaced = 48-48-52-52-52-56 stitches. Change to double pointed needles size 4 MM = US 6 and work rib (knit 2, purl 2) for 12 cm = 4 3/4". Bind off.
Work the other sleeve in the same way.

RIGHT BAND:
Start at the bottom of the right front piece, using circular needle size 5 MM = US 8 and a strand-end of 90-120 cm = 35 1/2"-47 1/4" to avoid having to cut the strand afterwards (you work the band from the ball-end), knit up 1 stitch in each knitted row along the front piece inside the 1 edge stitch.
Continue working from the end of the needle with the ball = bottom of front piece.
Cast on 12 stitches from the wrong side, out from the first knitted up stitch. Work the band over these 12 stitches at the same time as the band is knitted together with the front piece as follows:

ROW 1 (right side): Slip 1 stitch as if to knit, keeping the strand at the front, * knit 1, slip 1 stitch as if to purl, keeping the strand at the front *, work from *-* until there is 1 of the 12 band stitches left, slip the last stitch as if to knit, keeping the strand at the back of the piece, knit the next stitch, pass the slipped stitch over the knitted stitch, turn.
ROW 2 (wrong side): * Slip the first/next stitch as if to purl, keeping the strand at the front, knit 1 *, work from *-* over all 12 band-stitches, turn.
Repeat rows 1 and 2.
Work the BUTTONHOLES – read description above.
When all the knitted stitches from the front piece have been worked with band stitches, knit all the band-stitches together 2 and 2. Bind off.

LEFT BAND:
Start at the top of the left front piece, using circular needle size 5 MM = US 8, and knit up 1 stitch in each knitted row down the front piece, inside the 1 edge stitch.
Now cast on 12 stitches for the band, out from the last knitted up stitch. Work the band over these 12 stitches at the same time as the band is knitted together with the front piece as follows:

ROW 1 (wrong side): Knit 1, * slip 1 stitch as if to purl, keeping the strand at the front, knit 1 *, work from *-* until there is 1 of the 12 band-stitches left, slip the next 2 stitches as if to purl together, keeping the strand at the front, turn.
ROW 2 (right side): Knit 2 together, * slip 1 stitch as if to purl, keeping the strand at the front, knit 1 *, work from *-* until there is 1 stitch left, slip the last stitch as if to purl, keeping the strand at the front, turn.
Repeat rows 1 and 2.
When all the knitted stitches from the front piece have been worked with band stitches, work all the band-stitches as follows: Slip 1 stitch as if to knit, knit 1 and pass the slipped stitch over the knitted stitch. Bind off.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew the buttons onto the left band.

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

	= knit from right side, purl from wrong side
	= between 2 stitches make 1 yarn over; on the next row work the yarn over twisted
	= on the first 2 rows of the symbol, work the stitch in stockinette stitch. On row 3 work 1 bobble as follows: Insert the right needle into and knit the stitch 2 rows below making sure it is not tight (the stitch should be 2 cm = 3/4" long), * make 1 yarn over, knit up 1 more stitch in the same way , work from -* 4 times (5 new stitches and 4 yarn overs), slip the 9 stitches/yarn-overs onto the left needle and knit them twisted together, then knit the stitch (1 stitch increased)
	= on the first 2 rows of the symbol, knit the stitch. On row 3 work 1 bobble as follows: Knit the stitch, insert the right needle into and knit up the knitted stitch 2 rows below making sure it is not tight (the stitch should be 2 cm = 3/4" long), * make 1 yarn over, knit up 1 more stitch in the same way , work from -* 4 times (5 new stitches and 4 yarn overs), slip the 9 stitches/yarn-overs onto the left needle and knit them twisted together (1 stitch increased)

Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 235-29) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

These step-by-step tutorials might also help you:

We have also step-by-step guides for different techniques which you'll find here.

And a very handy technical dictionary!

Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ).

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

2) What are the yarn groups?

3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

4) How do I use the yarn converter?

5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

8) What is a repeat?

9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

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