DROPS Air
DROPS Air
65% Alpaca, 28% Polyamide, 7% Wool
from 5.30 € /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 31.80€.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

Winter Berry Cardigan

Knitted jacket in DROPS Air. The piece is worked top down with raglan, bobbles and double bands. Sizes S - XXXL.

DROPS 235-29
DROPS Design: Pattern ai-415
Yarn group C or A + A
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SIZES:
S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL

MATERIALS:
DROPS AIR from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group C)
300-300-350-350-400-450 g colour 35, clay

DROPS BUTTONS NO 515: 6-6-6-6-7-7 items.

NEEDLES:
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 5.5 MM: Length 80 cm.
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 5 MM: Length 80 cm
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 4 MM: Length 80 cm.
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 5.5 MM.
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 4 MM.
The technique MAGIC LOOP can be used – you then only need circular needle of 80 cm in each size.

KNITTING TENSION:
16 stitches in width and 20 rows in height with stocking stitch = 10 x 10 cm.
NOTE: Needle size is only a guide. If you get too many stitches on 10 cm, change to a larger needle size. If you get too few stitches on 10 cm, change to a smaller needle size.

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Air
DROPS Air
65% Alpaca, 28% Polyamide, 7% Wool
from 5.30 € /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 31.80€.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

SAVE 30% on 6 cotton favourites!
Valid until 12.04.2024

Pattern instructions

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EXPLANATIONS FOR THE PATTERN:
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PATTERN:
See diagram A.1.
The diagram shows all rows in the pattern from the right side.

RIDGE/GARTER STITCH (worked back and forth):
Knit all rows.
1 ridge = knit 2 rows.

DECREASE TIP (for sleeves):
Decrease 1 stitch on either side of the marker as follows: Work until there are 3 stitches left before the marker, knit 2 together, knit 2 (marker sits between these 2 stitches), slip 1 stitch as if to knit, knit 1 and pass the slipped stitch over the knitted stitch.
BUTTONHOLES:
Work buttonholes on the right band as follows: Work the first 6 stitches as before, turn and work back and forth over these stitches 2 more times (last row from the right side). Cut the strand.
Work 4 rows as before over the remaining 6 band stitches (first row from the right side) and work the last stitch together with the next stitch on the jacket as before. On the last row from the wrong side work all the band stitches as before.
Work the buttonholes when the band measures:
S: 4, 13, 22, 31, 40 and 48 cm.
M: 4, 14, 23, 33, 41 and 50 cm.
L: 4, 14, 24, 34, 43 and 52 cm.
XL: 6, 16, 26, 36, 45 and 54 cm.
XXL: 4, 13, 22, 31, 40, 48 and 56 cm.
XXXL: 5, 14, 23, 32, 41, 50 and 58 cm.


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START THE PIECE HERE:

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JACKET – SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE.
The neck and yoke are worked back and forth, top down. The yoke is divided for body and sleeves and the body continued back and forth with circular needle. The sleeves are worked in the round with double pointed needles.
Stitches are knitted up the front pieces and the double bands are worked to finish.

DOUBLE NECK:
Cast on 80-84-88-92-96-100 stitches with DROPS Air using 2 circular needles size 4mm and 5.5 mm held together.
Remove the needle size 5.5 mm and continue with needle size 4 mm (this gives you an elastic cast-on edge). Purl 1 row from the wrong side.
Work rib as follows from the right side:
1 edge stitch in GARTER STITCH – read description above, * purl 2, knit 2 *, work from *-* until there are 3 stitches left, purl 2 and 1 edge stitch in garter stitch. When the rib measures 9 cm, fold the neck double to the inside and knit the next row from the right side AT THE SAME TIME as every 2nd stitch is knitted together with every 2nd stitch from the cast-on edge. You now have a double neck.
Change to short circular needle size 5.5 mm. Insert a marker after the edge stitch; the yoke is measured from this marker!

YOKE:
Purl 1 row from the wrong side and increase 0-10-22-0-14-38 stitches evenly spaced = 80-94-110-92-110-138 stitches.
Work the next row from the right side as follows:
1 edge stitch in garter stitch, knit 8-12-16-11-16-23 (front piece), work A.1, knit 12 (sleeve), work A.1, knit 18-24-32-24-32-46 (back piece), work A.1, knit 12 (sleeve), work A.1, knit 8-12-16-11-16-23 and 1 edge stitch in garter stitch (front piece). Continue this pattern. REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION!
When A.1 has been completed in height, repeat A.1 over the middle 5 stitches in previous A.1. All other stitches are worked in stocking stitch.
When A.1 has been worked a total of 3-3-3-4-4-4 times in height there are 224-238-254-284-302-330 stitches.
Continue with stocking stitch and 1 edge stitch in garter stitch on each side until the yoke measures 19-21-23-25-27-29 cm from the marker.
Divide for the body and sleeves as follows:
Work 34-37-39-43-47-52 stitches, place the next 44-46-50-56-58-62 stitches on a thread for the sleeve, cast on 8-8-10-10-12-12 stitches under the sleeve, work 68-72-76-86-92-102 stitches, place the next 44-46-50-56-58-62 stitches on a thread for the sleeve, cast on 8-8-10-10-12-12 stitches under the sleeve, work the last 34-37-39-43-47-52 stitches.

BODY:
= 152-162-174-192-210-230 stitches.
Continue with stocking stitch and 1 edge stitch in garter stitch on each side for a further 24 cm. Increase 20-22-22-24-26-30 stitches evenly on the next row from the right side = 172-184-196-216-236-260 stitches.
Change to circular needle size 4 mm and work rib from the wrong side as follows:
1 edge stitch in garter stitch, * knit 2, purl 2*, work from *-* until there are 3 stitches left, knit 2 and 1 edge stitch in garter stitch.
Continue this rib for 5 cm. Cast off.

SLEEVES:
Place the 44-46-50-56-58-62 stitches from the thread on the one side of the piece on double pointed needles size 5.5 mm and knit up 1 stitch in each of the 8-8-10-10-12-12 stitches cast on under the sleeve = 52-54-60-66-70-74 stitches. Insert a marker in the middle of the new stitches under the sleeve.
Work stocking stitch in the round for 2 cm. Now decrease 2 stitches under the sleeve – read DECREASE TIP. Decrease like this every 6-6-3½-2-2-1½ cm a total of 5-5-7-9-11-12 times = 42-44-46-48-48-50 stitches.
When the sleeve measures 29-28-26-25-23-21 cm from the division, increase 6-4-6-4-4-6 stitches evenly spaced = 48-48-52-52-52-56 stitches. Change to double pointed needles size 4 mm and work rib (knit 2, purl 2) for 12 cm. Cast off.
Work the other sleeve in the same way.

RIGHT BAND:
Start at the bottom of the right front piece, using circular needle size 5 mm and a strand-end of 90-120 cm to avoid having to cut the strand afterwards (you work the band from the ball-end), knit up 1 stitch in each knitted row along the front piece inside the 1 edge stitch.
Continue working from the end of the needle with the ball = bottom of front piece.
Cast on 12 stitches from the wrong side, out from the first knitted up stitch. Work the band over these 12 stitches at the same time as the band is knitted together with the front piece as follows:

ROW 1 (right side): Slip 1 stitch as if to knit, keeping the strand at the front, * knit 1, slip 1 stitch as if to purl, keeping the strand at the front *, work from *-* until there is 1 of the 12 band stitches left, slip the last stitch as if to knit, keeping the strand at the back of the piece, knit the next stitch, pass the slipped stitch over the knitted stitch, turn.
ROW 2 (wrong side): * Slip the first/next stitch as if to purl, keeping the strand at the front, knit 1 *, work from *-* over all 12 band-stitches, turn.
Repeat rows 1 and 2.
Work the BUTTONHOLES – read description above.
When all the knitted stitches from the front piece have been worked with band stitches, knit all the band-stitches together 2 and 2. Cast off.

LEFT BAND:
Start at the top of the left front piece, using circular needle size 5 mm, and knit up 1 stitch in each knitted row down the front piece, inside the 1 edge stitch.
Now cast on 12 stitches for the band, out from the last knitted up stitch. Work the band over these 12 stitches at the same time as the band is knitted together with the front piece as follows:

ROW 1 (wrong side): Knit 1, * slip 1 stitch as if to purl, keeping the strand at the front, knit 1 *, work from *-* until there is 1 of the 12 band-stitches left, slip the next 2 stitches as if to purl together, keeping the strand at the front, turn.
ROW 2 (right side): Knit 2 together, * slip 1 stitch as if to purl, keeping the strand at the front, knit 1 *, work from *-* until there is 1 stitch left, slip the last stitch as if to purl, keeping the strand at the front, turn.
Repeat rows 1 and 2.
When all the knitted stitches from the front piece have been worked with band stitches, work all the band-stitches as follows: Slip 1 stitch as if to knit, knit 1 and pass the slipped stitch over the knitted stitch. Cast off.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew the buttons onto the left band.

Diagram

symbols = knit from right side, purl from wrong side
symbols = between 2 stitches make 1 yarn over; on the next row work the yarn over twisted
symbols = on the first 2 rows of the symbol, work the stitch in stocking stitch. On row 3 work 1 bobble as follows: Insert the right needle into and knit the stitch 2 rows below making sure it is not tight (the stitch should be 2 cm long), * make 1 yarn over, knit up 1 more stitch in the same way *, work from *-* 4 times (5 new stitches and 4 yarn overs), slip the 9 stitches/yarn-overs onto the left needle and knit them twisted together, then knit the stitch (1 stitch increased)
symbols = on the first 2 rows of the symbol, knit the stitch. On row 3 work 1 bobble as follows: Knit the stitch, insert the right needle into and knit up the knitted stitch 2 rows below making sure it is not tight (the stitch should be 2 cm long), * make 1 yarn over, knit up 1 more stitch in the same way *, work from *-* 4 times (5 new stitches and 4 yarn overs), slip the 9 stitches/yarn-overs onto the left needle and knit them twisted together (1 stitch increased)
diagram
diagram

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size is only meant as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn calculator, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the calculator will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be calculated separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn calculator

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn calculator, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn calculator will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a tension/gauge swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (6)

country flag Katelyn Foster wrote:

In response to the response to my comment about the error. Under "yoke," it says to increase 0-10-22-0-14-38. Why would you increase less to end up with fewer stitches for a larger size? This leaves the XL smaller than the medium and the XXL the same size as the L.

08.01.2024 - 01:34

country flag Sally wrote:

I’m doing a size S, as pattern with 80 sts from the york, after doing the A1 pattern 3 times there’s 24 stitches x 3 times increased, I don’t have 224 stitches to carry on with separating the body and sleeves, can you help please?

15.12.2023 - 15:49

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Sally, you increase 12 stitches in each A.1, A.1 is worked a total of 4 times in the round (at each transition between sleeve/body), and a total of 3 times in height, this means: 80 + (12 x 4 x 3) = 224 sts. Happy knitting!

15.12.2023 - 15:58

country flag Katelyn Foster wrote:

Ok I think I’ve figured out that this is an error. It must be. Please fix and update. I spent a lot of money on the materials for this and want to start asap.

16.11.2023 - 05:47

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Mrs Foster, not sure where you found an error, could you please tell us more? About the size you are working, the place where you found this error, etc.. so that we can check further? Thanks for your comprehension.

16.11.2023 - 10:26

country flag Katelyn Foster wrote:

I don't understand this pattern AT ALL. Starting at the Yoke. 1 edge stitch in garter stitch, knit 8-12-16-11-16-23? Do we put markers between all of these? Why not write "knit 87?" Are there markers between the front piece and the sleeves, etc?

16.11.2023 - 02:18

DROPS Design answered:

Hi Katelyn, You can insert markers if you wish, to separate the sleeves from the front and back pieces but the text does include knitted stitches and pattern A.1 on both the sleeves and front/back pieces. A.1 gives you the increases you need on the yoke as well as the bobbles in the pattern. Hope this helps and happy knitting!

16.11.2023 - 06:47

country flag Mairead De Faoite wrote:

WORST PATTERNS EVER.

29.10.2022 - 21:26

country flag Liv wrote:

Would look great with a dress

06.08.2022 - 00:52