DROPS Wish
50% Alpaca, 33% Cotton, 17% Wool
Discontinued
find alternatives

DROPS Buttons
Beech wood No. 501

Order

DROPS Needles & Hooks

Order

Golden Hour Cardigan

Knitted jacket in 1 strand DROPS Wish or 2 strands DROPS Air. The piece is worked bottom up with cables, V-neck and split in the sides. Sizes S - XXXL.

Highlight Size:

DROPS 235-22

#goldenhourcardigan

DROPS Design: Pattern wi-048
Yarn group E or C + C
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SIZES:
S - M - L - XL - XXL – XXXL

Finished measurements:
Chest measurements: 98-106-112-120-128-134 cm = 38½"-41¾"-44"-47¼"-50⅜"-52¾"
Full length: 64-66-68-70-72-74 cm = 25¼"-26"-26¾"-27½"-28⅜"-29⅛"
All measurements in charts are in cm.

MATERIALS:
DROPS WISH from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group E)
750-800-900-950-1050-1150 g color 12, curry

Or use
DROPS AIR from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group C)
700-750-850-900-1000-1100 g color 22, yellow

DROPS BUTTONS NO 501: 4-4-4-5-5-5 items.

NEEDLES:
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 8 MM = US 11: Length 40 cm = 16" and 80 cm = 32".
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 7 MM = US 10.75: Length 80 cm = 32".
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 8 MM = US 11.
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 7 MM = US 10.75.
DROPS CABLE NEEDLE – for cables.
The technique MAGIC LOOP can be used – you then only need circular needle of 80 cm = 32" in each size.

KNITTING GAUGE:
11 stitches in width and 15 rows in height with stockinette stitch = 10 x 10 cm = 4" x 4" with 2 strands DROPS Air.
NOTE: Needle size is only a guide. If you get too many stitches on 10 cm = 4", change to a larger needle size. If you get too few stitches on 10 cm = 4", change to a smaller needle size.

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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You might also like...

Women Jackets & Cardigans Chunky Knits bottom up cable chunky knits oversized set-in / knitted in sleeves shawl collar v-neck

DROPS Wish
50% Alpaca, 33% Cotton, 17% Wool
Discontinued
find alternatives

DROPS Buttons
Beech wood No. 501

Order

DROPS Needles & Hooks

Order

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. Convert from inches to cm here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, convert "crochet terms" here. See this pattern in British English here.

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EXPLANATIONS FOR THE PATTERN:
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RIDGE/GARTER STITCH (worked back and forth):
Knit all rows.
1 ridge = knit 2 rows.

PATTERN:
See diagrams A.1 and A.2. The diagrams show all rows in the pattern from the right side.

DECREASE TIP:
Decrease inside 24 stitches mid-front. All decreases are worked from the right side as follows:

RIGHT FRONT PIECE:
Work 24 stitches as before, slip 1 stitch as if to knit, knit 1 and pass the slipped stitch over the knitted stitch.

LEFT FRONT PIECE:
Work until there are 26 stitches left on the row, knit 2 together and work the last 24 stitches as before.

INCREASE TIP:
Work until there are 2 stitches left before the marker, 1 yarn over, knit 4 (marker sits between these 4 stitches), 1 yarn over. On the next round knit the yarn overs twisted to avoid holes = 2 stitches increased. Then work the new stitches in stockinette stitch.

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START THE PIECE HERE:

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JACKET – SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE:
The back and front pieces are worked separately back and forth with circular needle. The sleeves are worked in the round with double pointed needles/short circular needle, bottom up. The piece is sewn together and stitches are knitted up for the bands. The back piece is 4 cm = 1½" longer than the front pieces.
BACK PIECE:
Cast on 65-69-75-79-85-89 stitches with circular needle size 7 MM = US 10.75 and DROPS Wish or 2 strands DROPS Air. Purl 1 row from the wrong side, then work rib as follows starting from right side: 2 stitches in GARTER STITCH – read description above, * knit 1, purl 1*, work from *-* until there are 3 stitches left, knit 1 and 2 stitches in garter stitch. Continue this rib for 8 cm = 3⅛". Change to circular needle size 8 MM = US 11.
Work as follows from the right side: 2 stitches in garter stitch, * knit 1, purl 1 *, work from *-* over the next 6 stitches, knit 49-53-59-63-69-73 and decrease 11-11-13-13-15-15 stitches evenly over these stitches, * purl 1, knit 1 *, work from *-* over the next 6 stitches, 2 stitches in garter stitch = 54-58-62-66-70-74 stitches. Continue this pattern until the piece measures 12 cm = 4¾". Continue with stockinette stitch and 1 stitch in garter stitch on each side.

REMEMBER THE KNITTING GAUGE! When the piece measures 44-45-46-47-48-49 cm = 17¼"-17¾"-18"-18½"-19"-19¼", bind off 2 stitches at the beginning of the next 2 rows for the armholes = 50-54-58-62-66-70 stitches.
When the piece measures 66-68-70-72-74-76 cm = 26"-26¾"-27½"-28⅜"-29⅛"-29½", bind off the middle 8-12-12-14-14-14 stitches for the neck and finish each shoulder separately. Then bind off 1 stitch on the next row from the neck = 20-20-22-23-25-27 stitches. Bind off when the piece measures 68-70-72-74-76-78 cm = 26¾"-27½"-28⅜"-29⅛"-29½"-30¾" (= 24-25-26-27-28-29 cm = 9½"-9¾"-10¼"-10⅝"-11"-11⅜" from the bottom of the armhole). Work the other shoulder in the same way.

RIGHT FRONT PIECE:
Cast on 34-36-38-40-42-44 stitches with circular needle size 7 MM = US 10.75 and DROPS Wish or 2 strands DROPS Air. Purl 1 row from the wrong side, then work rib starting from right side and mid front as follows: 1 stitch in garter stitch, * knit 1, purl 1 *, work from *-* until there are 3 stitches left, knit 1 and 2 stitches in garter stitch. Continue this rib for 8 cm = 3⅛". Change to circular needle size 8 MM = US 11.

Work as follows from the right side: 1 stitch in garter stitch, purl 4, work A.1, purl 4, knit 13-15-17-19-21-23 and decrease 6 stitches evenly over these stitches, 1 stitch in garter stitch = 32-34-36-38-40-42 stitches.

Continue with knit over knit and purl over purl. When A.1 is finished in height, work A.2 over A.1. Repeat A.2 in height.

When the piece measures 39-40-41-42-43-44 cm = 15¼"-15¾"-16⅛"-16½"-17"-17¼", start to decrease for the V-neck. AT THE SAME TIME bind off for the armholes (read the next section before continuing).
V-NECK:
Decrease for the V-neck every 3 cm = 1⅛" 5-7-7-8-8-8 times – read DECREASE TIP.
ARMHOLE:
When the piece measures 40-41-42-43-44-45 cm = 15¾"-16⅛"-16½"-17"-17¼"-17¾", bind off 2 stitches for the armhole at the beginning of the next row from the side. When the piece measures 63-65-67-69-71-73 cm = 24¾"-25½"-26⅜"-27⅛"-28"-28¾" decrease 5 stitches evenly over the cable in A.2. After all the decreases there are 20-20-22-23-25-27 stitches. Bind off when the piece measures 64-66-68-70-72-74 cm = 25¼"-26"-26¾"-27½"-28⅜"-29⅛" (= 24-25-26-27-28-29 cm = 9½"-9¾"-10¼"-10⅝"-11"-11⅜" from the bottom of the armhole).

LEFT FRONT PIECE:
Cast on 34-36-38-40-42-44 stitches with circular needle size 7 MM = US 10.75 and DROPS Wish or 2 strands DROPS Air. Purl 1 row from the wrong side, then work rib starting from right side and the side as follows: 2 stitches in garter stitch, * knit 1, purl 1 *, work from *-* until there are 2 stitches left, knit 1 and 1 stitch in garter stitch. Continue this rib for 8 cm = 3⅛". Change to circular needle size 8 MM = US 11.

Work as follows from the right side: 1 stitch in garter stitch, knit 13-15-17-19-21-23 and decrease 6 stitches evenly over these stitches, purl 4, A.1, purl 4, 1 stitch in garter stitch.

Continue with knit over knit and purl over purl. When A.1 is finished in height, work A.2 over A.1. Repeat A.2 in height.

When the piece measures 39-40-41-42-43-44 cm = 15¼"-15¾"-16⅛"-16½"-17"-17¼", start to decrease for the V-neck. AT THE SAME TIME bind off for the armholes (read the next section before continuing).
V-NECK:
Decrease for the V-neck every 3 cm = 1⅛" 5-7-7-8-8-8 times – remember DECREASE TIP.
ARMHOLE:
When the piece measures 40-41-42-43-44-45 cm = 15¾"-16⅛"-16½"-17"-17¼"-17¾", bind off 2 stitches for the armhole at the beginning of the next row from the side. When the piece measures 63-65-67-69-71-73 cm = 24¾"-25½"-26⅜"-27⅛"-28"-28¾" decrease 5 stitches evenly over the cable in A.2. After all the decreases there are 20-20-22-23-25-27 stitches. Bind off when the piece measures 64-66-68-70-72-74 cm = 25¼"-26"-26¾"-27½"-28⅜"-29⅛" (= 24-25-26-27-28-29 cm = 9½"-9¾"-10¼"-10⅝"-11"-11⅜" from the bottom of the armhole).

SLEEVES:
Sleeves are worked in the round with double pointed needles/short circular needle and bottom up.
Cast on 32-32-36-36-40-40 stitches with double pointed needles size 7 MM = US 10.75 and DROPS Wish or 2 strands DROPS Air. Knit 1 round then work rib in the round (knit 1, purl 1) for 6 cm = 2⅜". Change to double pointed needles size 8 MM = US 11 and work the next round as follows: Knit 6-6-8-8-10-10 and increase 4-5-4-5-4-5 stitches evenly over these stitches, purl 4, work A.1, purl 4, knit the last 7-7-9-9-11-11 stitches and increase 3-4-3-4-3-4 stitches evenly over these stitches.
When A.1 is finished there are 43-45-47-49-51-53 stitches. Continue with A.2 over A.1, and the other stitches as before. Insert a marker at the beginning of the round = mid-under sleeve. When the sleeve measures 9 cm = 3½", increase 1 stitch on each side of the marker – read INCREASE TIP. Increase like this every 9-9-9-8-8-8 cm = 3½"-3½"-3½"-3⅛"-3⅛"-3⅛" a total of 5 times = 53-55-57-59-61-63 stitches. When the sleeve measures 46-45-44-43-42-41 cm = 18"-17¾"-17¼"-17"-16½"-16⅛", work stockinette stitch over the stitches in A.2. When the sleeve measures 49-48-47-46-45-44 cm = 19¼"-19"-18½"-18"-17¾"-17¼", continue back and forth (from mid-under the sleeve) to finished length (sleeve cap). Continue working until the sleeve measures 51-50-49-48-47-46 cm = 20"-19¾"-19¼"-19"-18½"-18" = a split of 2 cm = ¾". Work the other sleeve in the same way.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew the shoulder seams. Sew the sleeve cap to the armhole, then the split to the bottom of the armhole – see sketch. Sew the side seams in the outermost loop of the outermost stitch so the seam is flat, leaving the bottom 4 cm = 1½" on the front piece and 8 cm = 3⅛" on the back piece = split. Insert 1 marker mid-back of neck.

RIGHT BAND:
Start at the bottom of the right front piece and from the right side. Using circular needle size 7 MM = US 10.75 knit up 92 to 108 stitches inside the 1 edge stitch as far as the marker mid-back. The number of stitches should be divisible by 4.
Work rib (first row from the wrong side) as follows: 1 stitch in garter stitch, (purl 2, knit 2) until there are 3 stitches left, purl 2 and 1 stitch in garter stitch. Continue this rib back and forth for 3 cm = 1⅛". Now work 4-4-4-5-5-5 buttonholes. 1 buttonhole = bind off 2 stitches. On the next row cast on 2 new stitches over the bind-off stitches – NOTE: It is neatest if you work the buttonholes in a purled section (seen from the right side).
Place the bottom buttonhole 5 cm = 2" up from the bottom edge and the top buttonhole where the V-neck begins.
Continue the rib for a further 4 cm = 1½" (8 cm = 3⅛" in total). Bind off.

LEFT BAND:
Start at the marker mid-back, from the right side. Using circular needle size 7 MM = US 10.75 knit up the same number of stitches as on the right front piece, inside the 1 edge stitch and down the left front piece. The number of stitches should be divisible by 4.
Work rib (first row from the wrong side) as follows: 1 stitch in garter stitch, (purl 2, knit 2) until there are 3 stitches left, purl 2 and 1 stitch in garter stitch. Continue this rib back and forth for 8 cm = 3⅛". Bind off. Sew the buttons onto the left band.

This pattern has been corrected. Click here to see the correction/s.

Updated online: 18.11.2022
Correction DECREASE TIP

Updated online: 23.01.2023
LEFT FRONT PIECE:... Work as follows from the right side: 1 stitch in garter stitch, knit 13-15-17-19-21-23 and decrease 6 stitches evenly over these stitches, purl 4, A.1, purl 4, 1 stitch in garter stitch.

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

	= knit from right side, purl from wrong side
	= between 2 stitches make 1 yarn over; on the next row work the yarn over twisted to avoid a hole
	= place 5 stitches on cable needle in front of piece, knit 5, knit 5 from cable needle
	= place 5 stitches on cable needle behind the piece, knit 5, knit 5 from cable needle
	= sew sleeve cap to armhole: a to A and b to B

© 1982-2025 DROPS Design A/S We reserve all rights. This document, including all its sub-sections, has copyrights.
What can you do with our patterns? You can share DROPS patterns online, using the pattern original picture, materials, name and number. But you are NOT ALLOWED to reproduce the complete pattern digitally in any way. Yarn stores are welcome to use the DROPS pattern database to promote the sale of our assortment. You can print out our patterns, make as many copies as you’d like. The only thing we ask is that you don't make any changes / additions to the original printed document. And that the patterns according to the DROPS philosophy are given out to the consumers for free. Editorials that wish to publish our patterns in printed books or magazines can contact us for more information. The sale of garments based on DROPS patterns is permitted as long as they are sold as single items or per order. Further commercial use of the patterns is not permitted. It has to be clearly stated that the garment is made based on a design from DROPS DESIGN. The use of clothing labels of which DROPS DESIGN forms part is conditioned by the inclusion of the following text: “A DROPS DESIGN made by …..”. The use of DROPS photos for marketing purposes/sales is only permitted in connection with the use/sale of DROPS products. The photos may not be cut or edited and the logo should be clearly visible.
We reserve the right to withdraw the permission for use of our patterns at any time, notwithstanding the reason.

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

These step-by-step tutorials might also help you:

Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

What size should I knit?

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Why does my garment pill?

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Have you finished this pattern?
Tag your pictures with #dropspattern #goldenhourcardigan or submit them to the #dropsfan gallery.

Comments / Questions (8)

Stanny Van Der Meijden wrote:

Hallo. Ik zou graad weten hoe de achterkant van het vest er uit ziet? Groetjes Stanny

18.11.2024 - 15:37

DROPS Design answered:

Dag Stanny,

Het achterpand wordt in tricotsteek gebreid, de kabels komen alleen op de voorpanden.

28.11.2024 - 20:27

ROSA wrote:

Vorrei fare il cardigan di 2 colori, con le trecce di un secondo colore, come dovrei dividere il filato?

22.11.2023 - 09:08

Buonasera Rosa, per un aiuto così personalizzato può rivolgersi al suo rivenditore DROPS di fiducia. Buon lavoro!

22.11.2023 - 17:58

Joana wrote:

There’s a mistake in directions: Second paragraph under “Right front piece”, as well as the “left front piece”, there should be only 2 stitches decreased instead of 6, because 34-2=32

28.01.2023 - 10:34

Dear Joana, please not that you should increase 4 sts on the first row in diagram A.1, so that in 1st size you have 34 sts, decrease 6 stitches in the stocking stitch section and increase 4 sts in the diagram = 34+4-6=32 sts remain. Happy knitting!

30.01.2023 - 09:59

Emma wrote:

In both the Dutch and English (uk/cm) pattern, there's a part missing in the left front description. The Norsk description does include it. The part that's missing is the second purl 4 after A1 (first good side needle after switch to 8mm). It's a small thing to miss. Videre strikkes det slik – fra retten: 1 maske i rille, strikk rett over de neste 13-15-17-19-21-23 maskene, SAMTIDIG som det felles 6 masker jevnt fordelt over disse maskene, 4 vrang, A.1, 4 vrang, 1 maske i rille.

21.01.2023 - 22:23

Thanks for noticing Emma, a correction will be added. Happy knitting!

23.01.2023 - 10:46

Isabelle wrote:

Hallo liebes Drops-Team, wird die Halsblende im Nacken zusammen genäht?

11.11.2022 - 17:11

Liebe Isabelle, ja genau, die Halsbende werden im Nacken zusammen genäht. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

14.11.2022 - 08:53

Lulu wrote:

Bonjour,\r\n\r\nje suis coincé avec l\'encolure, je ne comprend pas comment il faut diminuer et en même temps faire la torsade.\r\nc\'est 1 m mousse, 4 m envers, A2, 4m envers, les mailles 15 mailles endroits après la diminution de 6m = 9 m endoit, et terminer par 1 m mousse. est-ce que c\'est juste ou pas ??\r\net pour les diminutions comment faire ??\r\n\r\nmerci

31.10.2022 - 14:14

Bonjour Lulu et merci pour votre retour, il faut en fait diminuer à 24 mailles du bord - la correction a été faite. Bon tricot!

18.11.2022 - 09:37

Heike wrote:

Ich komme mit dem Abnahmetip nicht klar. Wenn ich ihn befolgen nehme ich im links gestrickten teil neben dem zopf ab. auf dem Foto ist aber zu sehen, dass im glatt rechts gestrickten teil an der Seite abgenommen wird. Das hieße für das rechte Vorderteil, dass nach den ersten 24 M abgenommen werden muss. In der Anleitung heißt es aber nach den ersten 20 Maschen. sehe ich das so richtig?

28.10.2022 - 22:52

Liebe Heike, die Abnahmen für V-Halsausschnitt werden innherhalb die ersten 20 Maschen (= 1 Randmasche, 4 links, 15 Maschen A.1) gestrickt, damit es immer 4 linke Maschen innerhalb der Randmaschen gibt. Dh bei dem rechten Vorderteil nehmen Sie nach A.1 ab (bei den Hinreihen) bzw in den Glatt rechten Maschen, so wird das Zopf nicht abgenommen. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

31.10.2022 - 08:25

Sabine wrote:

Sunray hug

06.08.2022 - 09:46