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Lost in the Sky Top by DROPS Design

Knitted sweater with ¾ sleeves in DROPS Alpaca. Piece is knitted top down with raglan and lace pattern. Size: S - XXXL

Keywords: 3/4 sleeves, lace, raglan, round neck, sweater, top down

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DROPS 230-48
DROPS design: Pattern z-955
Yarn group A
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SIZE:
S - M - L - XL - XXL – XXXL

Finished measurements:
Chest measurements: 82-92-100-110-120-132 cm = 32 1/4"-36 1/4"-39 3/8"-43 3/8"-47 1/4"-52"
Full length: 48-50-52-54-56-58 cm = 19"-19 3/4"-20 1/2"-21 1/4"-22"-22 3/4"
All measurements in charts are in cm.

MATERIALS:
DROPS ALPACA from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group A)
250-300-300-350-400-400 g color 6205, light blue

NEEDLES:
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 3 MM = US 2.5: Length 40 and 80 cm = 16” and 32”.
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 2.5 MM = US 1.5: Length 40 and 80 cm = 16” and 32”.
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 3 MM = US 2.5
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 2.5 MM = US 1.5
The technique MAGIC LOOP can be used – you then only need circular needle of 80 cm = 32” in each size.

KNITTING GAUGE:
24 stitches in width and 32 rows vertically in stockinette stitch = 10 x 10 cm = 4” x 4”.
NOTE! Remember that needle size is only a suggestion. If you have too many stitches on 10 cm = 4” switch to larger needles. If you have too few stitches on 10 cm = 4” switch to smaller needles.

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Knitting tension – See how to measure it and why here
Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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100% Alpaca 		from 3.90 $ /50g
DROPS Alpaca uni colour DROPS Alpaca uni colour 3.90 $ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd 		Order
DROPS Alpaca mix DROPS Alpaca mix 4.00 $ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd 		Order
needles DROPS Needles & Hooks
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 19.50$. Read more.

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Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
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EXPLANATION FOR THE PATTERN:

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PATTERN:
See diagrams A.1 to A.7.

RAGLAN:
Increase before/after stitch with marker. Increase 1 stitch by making 1 yarn over. On next round knit yarn over twisted to avoid holes.

DECREASE TIP (applies to sleeves):
Decrease 1 stitch on each side of marker thread as follows: Work until 3 stitches remain before marker thread and knit 2 together, knit 2 (marker thread is between these 2 stitches), slip 1 stitch knitwise, knit 1, pass slipped stitch over stitch worked.

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START THE PIECE HERE:

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SWEATER - SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE:
Work yoke in the round on circular needle from right shoulder at the back, top down. Now divide yoke for body and sleeves. Work the body in the round on circular needle. Work sleeves in the round on double pointed needles/a short circular needle.

YOKE:
Cast on 120-120-120-140-140-140 stitches on a short circular needle size 2.5 MM = US 1.5 with DROPS Alpaca. Knit 1 round.
Work next round as follows: A.1 (insert 1 marker in first stitch), A.2, A.3 (insert 1 marker in last stitch – stitches between these 2 stitches belong to right sleeve), A.4, work A.2 3-3-3-4-4-4 times in total, A.5 (these stitches belong to front piece), A.1 (insert 1 marker in first stitch), A.2, A.3 (insert 1 marker in last stitch – stitches between these 2 markers belong to left sleeve), A.4, work A.2 3-3-3-4-4-4 times in total, A.5 (these stitches belong to back piece).

Continue pattern like this - the 4 stitches with markers mark the raglan lines.
When 2 rounds have been worked, switch to a short circular needle size 3 MM = US 2.5, then continue pattern as before - REMEMBER THE KNITTING GAUGE!
When A.1 to A.5 have been worked vertically, there are 192-192-192-208-208-208 stitches on needle.

Then work in stockinette stitch in the round over all stitches - knit in addition A.6 in the middle of each sleeve - stitch with star in A.6 should fit stitch with star in A.2.
AT THE SAME TIME on next round increase for RAGLAN – see explanation above. Increase 1 stitch on each side of 4 stitches with markers (8 stitches increased– NOTE: Increase before first marker must be done at the end of round).
Increase for raglan every other round 16-20-24-27-30-35 times in total.
After last increase for raglan there are 320-352-384-424-448-488 stitches on needle and piece measures approx. 18-21-23-25-27-30 cm = 7"-8 1/4"-9"-9 3/4"-10 5/8"-11 3/4" from cast-on edge. If piece is shorter than this, continue without increases until correct measurements.

On next round divide piece for body and sleeves as follows: Work 2-4-3-2-4-7 stitches in stockinette stitch, slip the next 69-73-83-91-93-97 stitches on a thread for sleeve, cast on 8-8-10-10-12-12 new stitches on row (in the side under sleeve), work 91-103-109-121-131-147 stitches in stockinette stitch, slip the next 69-73-83-91-93-97 stitches on a thread for sleeve, cast on 8-8-10-10-12-12 new stitches on row (in the side under sleeve) and work the remaining 89-99-106-119-127-140 stitches in stockinette stitch. Finish body and sleeves separately.

BODY:
= 198-222-238-262-286-318 stitches. Work in stockinette stitch over stitches on back piece until the middle of the 8-8-10-10-12-12 stitches that were cast on under sleeves - round begins here. Work in stockinette stitch in the round.
When piece measures 22-21-21-21-21-20 cm = 8 3/4"-8 1/4"-8 1/4"-8 1/4"-8 1/4"-8" from division, knit 1 round while increasing 20-22-24-26-28-32 stitches evenly = 218-244-262-288-314-350 stitches.
Switch to circular needle size 2.5 MM = US 1.5. Work rib knit 1 twisted/purl 1 for 3 cm = 1 1/8". Loosely bind off. Sweater measures approx. 48-50-52-54-56-58 cm = 19"-19 3/4"-20 1/2"-21 1/4"-22"-22 3/4" from shoulder and down.

SLEEVE:
Slip the 69-73-83-91-93-97 stitches from thread in one side of piece on double pointed needles or a short circular needle size 3 MM = US 2.5 and pick in addition up 1 stitch in each of the 8-8-10-10-12-12 new stitches cast on under sleeve = 77-81-93-101-105-109 stitches.
Insert 1 marker thread in the middle of the 8-8-10-10-12-12 stitches that were cast on under sleeves. Move marker thread upwards when working.
Begin round at the marker thread and work stockinette stitch in the round, but continue A.6 mid on top of sleeve as before.
When sleeve measures 2-2-2-3-3-1 cm = 3/4"-3/4"-3/4"-1 1/8"-1 1/8"-3/8" from division, decrease 2 stitches mid under sleeve - read DECREASE TIP. Decrease like this every 3½-2½-1½-1-1-1 cm = 1 1/4"-1"-1/2"-3/8"-3/8"-3/8" 6-8-10-14-12-14 times in total = 65-65-73-73-81-81 stitches.
Work until sleeve measures 24-22-21-19-17-15 cm = 9 1/2"-8 3/4"-8 1/4"-7 1/2"-6 3/4"-6" from division. Approx. 9 cm = 3 1/2" remain until finished measurements, try the sweater on and work to desired length
Knit 1 round while decreasing 1 stitch under sleeve (on right sleeve knit the last 2 stitches on round twisted together, on left sleeve knit the first 2 stitches on round together) = 64-64-72-72-80-80 stitches. Work A.7 8-8-9-9-10-10 times in total around the sleeve - A.7 should fit nicely over A.6 mid on top of sleeve.
When A.7 has been worked, switch to double pointed needles size 2.5 MM = US 1.5.
Continue rib over stitches in A.7 with knit 1 twisted, purl 1.
When rib measures 1 cm = 3/8" (measured after A.7), increase every fourth purl 1 to purl 2 (i.e. increase every 8th stitch to purl 2) = 72-72-81-81-90-90 stitches. When rib measures 2 cm = 3/4", increase the same way but displace to avoid increasing over previous increases = 80-80-90-90-100-100 stitches. When rib measures 3½ cm = 1 1/4", increase the same way and displace to next 1 purl = 88-88-99-99-110-110 stitches, and when rib measures 5 cm = 2", increase the remaining 1 purl to 2 purl = 96-96-108-108-120-120 stitches.
Bind off somewhat loosely when rib measures 6 cm = 2 3/8". Sleeve measures approx. 33-31-30-28-26-24 cm = 13"-12 1/4"-11 3/4"-11"-10 1/4"-9 1/2" from division.
Work the other sleeve the same way.

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

symbols = knit
symbols = purl
symbols = knit twisted
symbols = between 2 stitches make 1 yarn over, on next round knit yarn over to make a hole
symbols = between 2 stitches make 1 yarn over, on next round work yarn over twisted as shown in diagram to avoid holes
symbols = this is no stitch, go directly to next symbol in diagram
symbols = knit 2 together
symbols = slip 1 stitch knitwise, knit 1, pass slipped stitch over stitch worked
symbols = slip 2 stitches as if to knit together, knit 1, pass the 2 slipped stitches over stitch worked
symbols = stitch with star in A.6 should fit stitch with star in A.2
diagram
diagram
diagram
diagram

Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 230-48) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

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Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

These step-by-step tutorials might also help you:

We have also step-by-step guides for different techniques which you'll find here.

And a very handy technical dictionary!
1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?
2) What are the yarn groups?
3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?
4) How do I use the yarn converter?
5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?
6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?
7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?
8) What is a repeat?
9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?
10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?
11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?
12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?
13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?
14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?
15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?
16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?
17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?
18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?
19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?
20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?
21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?
22) Where on the garment is the length measured?
23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (6)

country flag Charlotte Lützen wrote:

Undskyld. Jeg troede ikke den første besked var gået igennem. Tak for hurtig respons og god weekend 🧶😊☀️

22.04.2022 - 14:13

country flag Charlotte Lützen wrote:

Hej igen. Det ser ud til at der er forskel i den danske og engelske opskrift. Den sorte markering i den engelske siger at masken ikkecskal strikkes. I den danske står der at der skal slåes en maske op??? Mvh Charlotte

22.04.2022 - 13:09

DROPS Design answered:

Hej igenigen :) Det er blevet rettet :)

22.04.2022 kl. 13:55

country flag Charlotte Lützen wrote:

Hej. Der er forskel i den dansk og den engelske udgave. Den sorte markering står i den engelske som om man ikke skal strikke den. I den danske står der at man skal lave et opslag og strikke det drejet på næste omgang. Så der ikke kommer hul ???

22.04.2022 - 10:50

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Charlotte, tak for information, det er rettet :)

22.04.2022 kl. 12:37

country flag Charlotte Lützen wrote:

Hej. \r\nJeg har strikket mønsterdelen på bærestykket og har nu 236 m. I opskriften står der at jeg skal have 208???\r\nJeg har taget 12x8 m ud i raglanen =96 m + de 140 m fra start = 236 m. Hvad har jeg overset i opskriften?\r\nMvh Charlotte Lützen

21.04.2022 - 10:07

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Charlotte, har du trukket maskerne fra som er taget ind ifølge diagram A.2, A.3 og A.5? I A.2 har du 8 masker istedet for 10 masker. Og i A.3 og A.5 har du taget 2 masker ind i hvert diagram :)

22.04.2022 kl. 10:31

country flag Hanne wrote:

Hej, prøv liiige at tjekke tjekke tallene, når diagrammerne A1-A5 er strikket i højden giver det 206 og ikke 208, der bliver taget 8 masker ind på hver 2. omgang og det kan aldrig give 208 men 206, ellers en fin opskrift PS også de andre tal i,op Mvh Hanne

01.04.2022 - 12:57

country flag Janice Hansen wrote:

Summer cloud

13.03.2022 - 23:14

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