Hush of Night by DROPS Design

Knitted long jacket in DROPS Wish. The piece is worked bottom up, with pockets and ribbed edges. Sizes S - XXXL.

DROPS 228-12
DROPS Design: Pattern no wi-007
Yarn group E or C + C
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SIZES:
S - M - L - XL - XXL – XXXL

Finished measurements:
Chest measurements: 102-112-124-130-148-150 cm = 40"-44"-48 3/4"-51 1/4"-58 3/8"-59"
Full length: 64-66-68-70-72-74 cm = 25 1/4"-26"-26 3/4"-27 1/2"-28 3/8"-29 1/8"
All measurements in charts are in cm.

MATERIALS:
DROPS WISH from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group E)
600-650-700-800-850-950 g color 09, denim blue

NEEDLES:
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 8 MM = US 11: Length 40 cm = 16” and 80 cm = 32”.
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 6 MM = US 10: Length 80 cm = 32”.
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 8 MM = US 11.
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 6 MM = US 10.
The technique MAGIC LOOP can be used – you then only need circular needle of 80 cm = 32” in each size.

KNITTING GAUGE:
11 stitches in width and 15 rows in height with stockinette stitch = 10 x 10 cm = 4” x 4”.
NOTE: Needle size is only a guide. If you get too many stitches on 10 cm = 4”, change to a larger needle size. If you get too few stitches on 10 cm = 4”, change to a smaller needle size.

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Magic loop – See the technique here
Knitting tension – See how to measure it and why here
Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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50% Alpaca, 33% Cotton, 17% Wool
from 5.50 $ /50g
DROPS Wish natural DROPS Wish natural 5.50 $ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
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DROPS Wish uni colour DROPS Wish uni colour 5.50 $ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
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DROPS Wish mix DROPS Wish mix 5.50 $ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
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needles DROPS Needles & Hooks
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 27.50$. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
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EXPLANATIONS FOR THE PATTERN:

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RIDGE/GARTER STITCH (worked back and forth):
Knit all rows.
1 ridge = knit 2 rows.

DECREASE TIP-1 (evenly spaced):
To work out how to decrease evenly, count the total number of stitches on needle (e.g. 81 stitches) minus the edge stitches (e.g. 2 stitches) and divide the remaining stitches by the number of decreases to be made (e.g. 23) = 3.4.
In this example decrease by knitting together alternately each 2nd and 3rd stitch and each 3rd and 4th stitch (approx.).

DECREASE TIP-2 (neck on front pieces):
All decreases are worked from the right side!
Decrease 1 stitch before the 1 edge stitch as follows (left front piece):
Knit 2 together (= 1 stitch decreased).
Decrease 1 stitch after the 1 edge stitch as follows (right front piece):
Slip 1 stitch as if to knit, knit 1 and pass the slipped stitch over the knitted stitch (= 1 stitch decreased).

INCREASE TIP (for sleeves):
Start 1 stitch before the marker thread, 1 yarn over, knit 2 (marker thread sits between these 2 stitches), 1 yarn over (2 stitches increased). On the next round knit the yarn overs twisted to avoid holes. Then work the new stitches in stockinette stitch.

BINDING-OFF TIP:
To avoid the bind-off edge being tight you can bind off with a larger size needle. If the edge is still tight, make 1 yarn over after approx. each 4th stitch at the same time as binding off; the yarn overs are bind off as normal stitches.

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START THE PIECE HERE:

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JACKET – SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE:
The back and front pieces are worked back and forth separately. Pockets are worked on the front pieces. The sleeves are worked in the round with double pointed needles. At the end work the band/neck edge along the opening of the jacket.

BACK PIECE:
Cast on 81-87-95-101-107-115 stitches (including 1 edge stitch on each side) with circular needle size 6 MM = US 10 and DROPS Wish. Purl 1 row (= wrong side). Then work rib from the right side as follows: 1 edge stitch in GARTER STITCH – read description above, * knit 1, purl 1 *, work from *-* until there are 2 stitches left, knit 1 and 1 edge stitch in garter stitch.
Continue this rib back and forth for 12 cm = 4 3/4".
Work 1 row of stockinette stitch with 1 edge stitch in garter stitch on each side and decrease 23-23-25-27-29-31 stitches evenly spaced – read DECREASE TIP-1 = 58-64-70-74-78-84 stitches.
Change to circular needle size 8 MM = US 11. Continue with stockinette stitch and 1 edge stitch in garter stitch on each side.
REMEMBER THE KNITTING GAUGE!

When the piece measures 45-46-47-48-49-50 cm = 17 3/4"-18"-18 1/2"-19"-19 1/4"-19 3/4", bind off for the armholes as follows. Bind off the first 3-5-7-7-7-9 stitches, work to end of row. Turn, bind off the first 3-5-7-7-7-9 stitches, work to end of row = 52-54-56-60-64-66 stitches.
Continue with stockinette stitch and 1 edge stitch in garter stitch on each side.
When the piece measures 62-64-66-68-70-72 cm = 24 3/8"-25 1/4"-26"-26 3/4"-27 1/2"-28 3/8", bind off the middle 10-10-10-12-12-12 stitches for the neck and each shoulder is finished separately (= 21-22-23-24-26-27 stitches on each shoulder). On the next row from the neck bind off 1 stitch = 20-21-22-23-25-26 stitches. Continue working until the piece measures 64-66-68-70-72-74 cm = 25 1/4"-26"-26 3/4"-27 1/2"-28 3/8"-29 1/8". Bind off.
Work the other shoulder in the same way.

RIGHT FRONT PIECE:
Cast on 36-42-46-48-50-54 stitches (including 1 edge stitch on each side) with circular needle size 6 MM = US 10 and DROPS Wish. Purl 1 row (= wrong side). Then work rib from the right side as follows: 1 edge stitch in garter stitch, * knit 1, purl 1 *, work from *-* until there is 1 stitch left, 1 edge stitch in garter stitch.
Continue this rib back and forth for 12 cm = 4 3/4".
Work 1 row of stockinette stitch with 1 edge stitch in garter stitch on each side and decrease 9-12-13-14-14-15 stitches evenly spaced = 27-30-33-34-36-39 stitches.
Change to circular needle size 8 MM = US 11.
On the next row from the right side increase stitches for the pocket as follows:
Work 1 edge stitch in garter stitch, then knit 2 stitches in each stitch, working in both the front and back loop, until there are 4-7-10-9-11-14 stitches left, knit 3-6-9-8-10-13 and finish with 1 edge stitch in garter stitch = 49-52-55-58-60-63 stitches.
Work the next row from the wrong side as follows:
1 edge stitch in garter stitch, purl 3-6-9-8-10-13, purl all the stitches that were worked in the back loop on the previous row, while placing all the stitches worked in the front loop on a thread (i.e. place every other stitch on a thread and work the other stitches). Leave the thread on the right side; the stitches will be used later when working the pocket.
There are 22-22-22-24-24-24 stitches on the thread and 27-30-33-34-36-39 stitches on the needle.
Continue with stockinette stitch and 1 edge stitch in garter stitch on each side.
When the piece measures 42-43-44-45-46-48 cm = 16 1/2"-17"-17 1/4"-17 3/4"-18"-19", decrease 1 stitch towards mid-front for the neck – read DECREASE TIP-2! Decrease like this every 5-5-6-6-6½-6½ cm = 2"-2"-2 3/8"-2 3/8"-2 1/2"-2 1/2" a total of 4 times.
AT THE SAME TIME when the piece measures 45-46-47-48-49-50 cm = 17 3/4"-18"-18 1/2"-19"-19 1/4"-19 3/4", bind off the first 3-5-7-7-7-9 stitches on the next row from the wrong side for the armhole.
When all the decreases for the neck and armhole are finished there are 20-21-22-23-25-26 stitches. Continue with stockinette until the piece measures 64-66-68-70-72-74 cm = 25 1/4"-26"-26 3/4"-27 1/2"-28 3/8"-29 1/8". Bind off.

LEFT FRONT PIECE:
Cast on 36-42-46-48-50-54 stitches (including 1 edge stitch on each side) with circular needle size 6 MM = US 10 and DROPS Wish. Purl 1 row (= wrong side). Then work rib from the right side as follows: 1 edge stitch in garter stitch, * purl 1, knit 1 *, work from *-* until there is 1 stitch left, 1 edge stitch in garter stitch.
Continue this rib back and forth for 12 cm = 4 3/4".
Work 1 row of stockinette stitch with 1 edge stitch in garter stitch on each side and decrease 9-12-13-14-14-15 stitches evenly spaced = 27-30-33-34-36-39 stitches.
Change to circular needle size 8 MM = US 11.
On the next row from the right side increase stitches for the pocket as follows:
Knit 4-7-10-9-11-14, then knit 2 stitches in each stitch, working in both the front and back loop, in each of the next 22-22-22-24-24-24 stitches and 1 edge stitch in garter stitch = 49-52-55-58-60-63 stitches.
Work the next row from the wrong side as follows:
Purl all the stitches worked in the back loop on the previous row, while placing all the stitches worked in the front loop on a thread (i.e. place every other stitch on a thread and work the other stitches), purl 3-6-9-8-10-13 stitches and 1 edge stitch in garter stitch. Leave the thread on the right side; the stitches will be used later when working the pocket.
There are 22-22-22-24-24-24 stitches on the thread and 27-30-33-34-36-39 stitches on the needle.
Continue with stockinette stitch and 1 edge stitch in garter stitch on each side.
When the piece measures 42-43-44-45-46-48 cm = 16 1/2"-17"-17 1/4"-17 3/4"-18"-19", decrease 1 stitch towards mid-front for the neck – remember DECREASE TIP-2! Decrease like this every 5-5-6-6-6½-6½ cm = 2"-2"-2 3/8"-2 3/8"-2 1/2"-2 1/2" a total of 4 times.
AT THE SAME TIME when the piece measures 45-46-47-48-49-50 cm = 17 3/4"-18"-18 1/2"-19"-19 1/4"-19 3/4", bind off the first 3-5-7-7-7-9 stitches on the next row from the right side for the armhole.
When all the decreases for the neck and armhole are finished there are 20-21-22-23-25-26 stitches. Continue with stockinette until the piece measures 64-66-68-70-72-74 cm = 25 1/4"-26"-26 3/4"-27 1/2"-28 3/8"-29 1/8". Bind off.

POCKETS:
Place the 22-22-22-24-24-24 stitches from one of the threads on circular needle size 8 MM = US 11. Work stockinette stitch with 1 edge stitch in garter stitch on each side until the pocket measures 14-14-14-15-15-15 cm = 5 1/2"-5 1/2"-5 1/2"-6"-6"-6". Knit 1 row from the right side where you increase 9 stitches evenly spaced = 31-31-31-33-33-33 stitches. Change to circular needle size 6 MM = US 10. Work rib, starting from the wrong side, as follows: 1 edge stitch in garter stitch, * purl 1, knit 1 *, work from *-* until there are 2 stitches left, purl 1 and 1 edge stitch in garter stitch.
Continue this rib until the pocket measures 18-18-18-19-19-19 cm = 7"-7"-7"-7 1/2"-7 1/2"-7 1/2", bind off with knit over knit and purl over purl. Work the other pocket in the same way.

SLEEVES:
Cast on 40-42-42-44-44-46 stitches with double pointed needles size 6 MM = US 10 and DROPS Wish. Knit 1 round, then work rib in the round (knit 1, purl 1) for 12 cm = 4 3/4". Knit 1 round where you decrease 12 stitches evenly spaced = 28-30-30-32-32-34 stitches. Change to double pointed needles size 8 MM = US 11. Insert a marker thread at the beginning of the round = mid-under sleeve. Allow the thread to follow your work onwards – it is used when increasing under the sleeve.
Start at the marker thread and work stockinette stitch.
When the piece measures 14 cm = 5 1/2", increase 1 stitch on each side of the marker thread – read INCREASE TIP. Increase like this every 5-4½-4-3½-3-3 cm = 2"-1 5/8"-1 1/2"-1 1/4"-1 1/8"-1 1/8" a total of 7-7-8-8-9-9 times = 42-44-46-48-50-52 stitches.
When the sleeve measures 46-44-43-42-42-40 cm = 18"-17 1/4"-17"-16 1/2"-16 1/2"-15 3/4", divide it at the marker thread and continue back and forth with 1 edge stitch in garter stitch on each side.
When the sleeve measures 49-49-49-48-48-48 cm = 19 1/4"-19 1/4"-19 1/4"-19"-19"-19", bind off – read BINDING-OFF TIP.
Work the other sleeve in the same way.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew the shoulder seams inside the bind-off edge. Sew the side seams inside the 1 edge stitch. Neatly sew down the side of the pocket towards the side seam. Sew in the sleeves inside the 1 edge stitch and sew together the bottoms of the armholes – see sketch.

BANDS/NECK:
Knit up from the right side 215-221-227-235-241-247 stitches inside the 1 edge stitch with circular needle size 6 MM = US 10 – start at the bottom of the right front piece, up and round the neck and then down the left front piece. When knitting up stitches over the pockets, knit up through both layers. Adjust the number of stitches knitted up so the bands/neck are not tight (the number of stitches should be divisible by 2 + 1).
Work rib as follows starting from the wrong side: 1 edge stitch in garter stitch, * purl 1, knit 1 *, work from *-* until there are 2 stitches left, purl 1 and 1 edge stitch in garter stitch
Continue this rib back and forth for 4 cm = 1 1/2".
Now increase as follows:
Work the first 77-79-81-85-89-91 stitches, increase 1 stitch by making 1 yarn over after each purled section until there are 77-79-81-85-89-91 stitches left and work these stitches as before. Doing this gives you a better fit around the neck. Continue the new rib until the bands/neck measure 8 cm = 3 1/8". Bind off with knit over knit and purl over purl – remember BINDING-OFF TIP!

This pattern has been corrected. .

Updated online: 05.10.2021
New yarn amount: DROPS WISH from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group E) 600-650-700-800-850-950 g color 09, denim blue

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

symbols = The sleeve cap is sewn to the armhole as follows: Sew a to A and b to B
diagram
diagram

Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 228-12) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

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Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

We have also step-by-step guides for different techniques which you'll find here.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (48)

country flag Wioletta wrote:

W jakim celu wykonuje się pierwsze oczko brzegowe ściegiem francuskim?

07.11.2022 - 18:14

DROPS Design answered:

Witaj Wioletto, odpowiedź znajdziesz na filmie TUTAJ. Pozdrawiamy!

08.11.2022 kl. 08:55

country flag Anna Winters wrote:

Het breipatroon Hush of Night geeft voir pen 8 11 steken in de breedte aan. Ik krijg er 12 maar op pen 9 worden het er weer minder en vind ik het breiwerk te los. Wat moet ik nu doen?

08.10.2022 - 10:54

DROPS Design answered:

Dag Anna,

Je zou dan op basis van de stekenverhouding het aantal op te zetten steken aan kunnen passen. Dus ongeveer per 10 cm (zie maattekening onderaan het patroon) 1 steek extra opzetten. Houd er ook rekening mee dat je dan dus extra steken over houdt na het afkanten voor het armsgat e.d.)

08.10.2022 kl. 16:14

country flag Gisele ARNAUD wrote:

Modèle DROPS Design: Modèle n° wi-007 Bonjour, Je ne comprends pas les mesures indiquées sur le schéma du modèle. Exemple pour la taille XXL il est indiqué de monter 115 mailles pour le dos. L'échantillon est de 11 mailles pour 10 cm donc en montant 115 mailles cela donnera 104 cm pour le dos. Le schéma indique 75. Merci de m'expliquer les chiffres du schéma. Gisèle Arnaud.

24.07.2022 - 16:44

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Gisele, l'echantillon donne est pour le point jersey et aiguilles no 8. Deuxieme chose: le nombre de mailles sera reduit apres les cotes (de cette facon les cotes et la partie en jersey auront la meme larguer). Bon tricot!

25.07.2022 kl. 07:45

country flag Aziliz Ollivier wrote:

Bonjour, êtes-vous au courant qu\'une bloggeuse distribue des modèles drops sans vous citer ? Voir : mimitricot.com Elle se fait aussi de la pub sur Facebook dans des groupes de tricot et crochet, en montrant vos modèles comme les siens. J'ai reconnu la mannequin. Je n'ai pas apprécié cette façon de faire. Cordialement, Aziliz Ollivier

04.07.2022 - 17:54

country flag Kine Clevenger wrote:

Hei, Går det ann å strikke denne på rundpinner?

14.06.2022 - 19:12

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Kine, ja du kan strikke denne frem og tilbage på rundpinde :)

15.06.2022 kl. 15:34

country flag Angelique Nandzik wrote:

Ich versteh die Abbildung nicht so ganz. Wie breit muss das Rückenteil sein?

11.06.2022 - 20:18

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Frau Nandzik, Rückenteil ist unten/vor den Ärmlöchern 51-56-62-65-69-75 cm und nach den Armausschnitt 47-49-51-55-58-60 cm breit. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

13.06.2022 kl. 09:09

country flag Marja Witteman wrote:

Ik heb 87 steken en moet nu 23 steken minderen dat is dus 85 : 23 en dat is 3,6 maar ik kom er niet uit hoe ik om de hoeveel steken moet minderen!

29.04.2022 - 12:17

DROPS Design answered:

Dag Marja,

Je mindert in dit geval afwisselend om de 3 en de 4 steken. Tel aan het eind van de naald of je het juiste aantal steken hebt.

04.05.2022 kl. 08:59

country flag Monika wrote:

Hallo liebes Team! Bei der Jacke wird bei der Blende am Hals nach jeder linken Masche ein Umschlag gearbeitet. Wie werden diese ins Muster eingearbeitet? In der nächsten Reihe re verschränkt und in der Hin-Reihe als linke Masche? Vielen Dank!

15.03.2022 - 08:23

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Monika, diese Umschläge werden bei der nächsten Reihe verschränkt gestrickt, die gehören zu den linken Maschen (von der Vorderseite gesehen), dh sie werden dann rechts bei den Rückreihen und links be den Hinreihen gestrickt. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

15.03.2022 kl. 10:02

country flag Zerbini wrote:

Je viens de comprendre pour le quiproquo "au dessus des poches": vous voulez dire le long des poches....merci

25.02.2022 - 17:05

country flag Zerbini wrote:

J'ai la même question déjà posée au dessus par "Nonotricotin "concernant les augmentations sur les mailles envers de la bande d'encolure. La réponse donnée est incompréhensible, désolée. "Chaque section en maille envers:chaque maille envers?" Si on fait des augmentations pendant des côtes: comment garder ces côtes "propres"?? Merci, malgré mes 45ans de tricot, je ne comprends pas comment rester en côte 1/1 en augmentant 1 m à chaque maille envers.

25.02.2022 - 16:51

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Zerbini, en fait, vous ne conservez pas les côtes 1 m end/1 m env après les augmentations, vous allez augmenter le nombre de mailles envers au niveau du col pour qu'il tombe plus joliment autour d' l'encolure, autrement dit, vous aurez des côtes 1/1 pendant 77-91 m (cf taille), puis des côtes 1 m end, 2 m env et vous terminerez par des côtes 1/1 comme avant sur les 77-91 dernières mailles. Est-ce plus clair ainsi pour vous? N'hésitez pas à nous le dire si ce n'est pas le cas. Bon tricot!

28.02.2022 kl. 08:49

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