Sugar Cane Set by DROPS Design

Knitted headband and vest in 2 strands DROPS Alpaca. The piece is worked with English rib, cables and displacements. Sizes S to XXXL.

  • Sugar Cane Set / DROPS 225-13 - Knitted headband and vest in 2 strands DROPS Alpaca. The piece is worked with English rib, cables and displacements. Sizes S to XXXL.
  • Sugar Cane Set / DROPS 225-13 - Knitted headband and vest in 2 strands DROPS Alpaca. The piece is worked with English rib, cables and displacements. Sizes S to XXXL.
  • Sugar Cane Set / DROPS 225-13 - Knitted headband and vest in 2 strands DROPS Alpaca. The piece is worked with English rib, cables and displacements. Sizes S to XXXL.
  • Sugar Cane Set / DROPS 225-13 - Knitted headband and vest in 2 strands DROPS Alpaca. The piece is worked with English rib, cables and displacements. Sizes S to XXXL.
DROPS Design: Pattern no z-949
Yarn group A + A or C
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WHOLE SET:

SIZES:
Headband: S/M - M/L - L/XL
Fits head size: 54/56 - 56/58 - 58/60 cm = 21 1/4"/22" – 22"/22 3/4" – 22 3/4"/23 5/8"
Vest: S/M - L/XL - XXL/XXXL

MATERIALS:
DROPS ALPACA from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group A)
250-250-250 g color 302, camel
250-250-250 g color 2020, light nougat

HEADBAND:

SIZES:
S/M - M/L - L/XL
Fits head size: 54/56 to 58/60 cm = 21 1/4"/22" to 22 3/4"/23 5/8"
Width: 12 - 13 - 14 cm = 4 3/4" – 5 1/8" – 5 1/2"

MATERIALS:
DROPS ALPACA from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group A)
50-50-50 g color 302, camel
50-50-50 g color 2020, light nougat

NEEDLES:
DROPS NEEDLE SIZE 4 MM = US 6.

KNITTING GAUGE:
16 stitches in width and 40 rows in height with English rib (20 rows of knitted stitches) and 2 strands = 10 x 10 cm = 4” x 4”.
NOTE: Needle size is only a guide. If you get too many stitches on 10 cm = 4”, change to a larger needle size. If you get too few stitches on 10 cm = 4”, change to a smaller needle size.

VEST:

SIZES:
S/M - L/XL - XXL/XXXL
Width: Approx. 42-45-48 cm = 16 1/2"-17 3/4"-19". Length: 48-50-52 cm = 19"-19 3/4"-20 1/2".

MATERIALS:
DROPS ALPACA from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group A)
200-200-250 g color 302, camel
200-200-250 g color 2020, light nougat

NEEDLES:
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 5 MM = US 8: Length 40 cm = 16” and 60 cm = 24”.
The technique MAGIC LOOP can be used – you then only need circular needle of 80 cm = 32” in each size.

KNITTING GAUGE:
14 stitches in width and 36 rows in height with English rib (18 rows of knitted stitches) and 2 strands = 10 x 10 cm = 4” x 4”.
NOTE: Needle size is only a guide. If you get too many stitches on 10 cm = 4”, change to a larger needle size. If you get too few stitches on 10 cm = 4”, change to a smaller needle size.

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Magic loop – See the technique here
Knitting tension – See how to measure it and why here
Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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100% Alpaca
from 5.30 $ /50g
DROPS Alpaca uni colour DROPS Alpaca uni colour 5.30 $ /50g
Purple Sheep Yarns
Order
DROPS Alpaca mix DROPS Alpaca mix 5.60 $ /50g
Purple Sheep Yarns
Order
needles DROPS Needles & Hooks
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 53.00$. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
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EXPLANATIONS FOR THE PATTERN:

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RIDGE/GARTER STITCH (worked back and forth):
Knit all rows.
1 ridge = knit 2 rows.

KNITTING TIP (headband):
To get a good fit, the headband should be approx. 6-7 cm = 2 3/8"-2 3/4" shorter than head-size.

ENGLISH RIB STITCH:
When counting stitches the yarn overs are not counted as stitches.

DIAGRAMS:
See diagrams A.1 to A.4. The diagrams are used when assembling the headband.

ENGLISH RIB (back and forth):
ROW 1 (wrong side): Work the edge stitch as described in the text – applies to each row, * knit 1, 1 yarn over, slip 1 stitch as if to purl *, work from *-* until there are 2 stitches left, knit 1 and 1 edge stitch.
ROW 2 (right side): Work the edge stitch, * 1 yarn over, slip 1 stitch as if to purl, knit together the yarn over and slipped stitch *, work from *-* until there are 2 stitches left, make 1 yarn over, slip 1 stitch as if to purl and 1 edge stitch.
ROW 3 (wrong side): Work the edge stitch, * knit together the yarn over and slipped stitch, 1 yarn over, slip 1 stitch as if to purl *, work from *-* until there are 2 stitches left, knit together the yarn over and slipped stitch and 1 edge stitch.
Repeat rows 2 and 3 onwards.

ENGLISH RIB (in the round):
ROUND 1: * Make 1 yarn over, slip 1 stitch as if to purl, knit 1 *, repeat from *-* to end of round.
ROUND 2: * Purl together the yarn over and slipped stitch, make 1 yarn over, slip 1 stitch as if to purl *, repeat from *-* to end of round.
ROUND 3: * Make 1 yarn over, slip 1 stitch as if to purl, knit together the yarn over and slipped stitch *, repeat from *-* to end of round.
Repeat rounds 2 and 3 onwards.

INCREASE TIP (for vest):
All increases are worked from the right side!
Increase 2 stitches by working 3 stitches in one stitch as follows:
Knit the stitch, but do not slip it from the left needle, make 1 yarn over and knit the stitch 1 more time (= 2 stitches increased).
Work the new stitches in English rib – note on the first row after the increases (from the wrong side), the knitted stitches are knitted without yarn overs as they have not been made.

DECREASE TIP (for vest):
All decreases are worked from the right side!
Decrease after the first marker-stitch:
Work the 8 stitches after the marker-stitch as before, slip the next stitch + yarn over (= 1 English rib stitch) as if to knit, knit together the next 2 stitches and pass the slipped stitch + yarn-over over the knitted together stitches (= 2 stitches decreased).
Decrease before the second marker-stitch:
Work until there are 11 stitches left before the marker-stitch, knit together the next 3 stitches + yarn overs (= 2 stitches decreased).

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START THE PIECE HERE:

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HEADBAND – SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE:
The piece is worked back and forth. The ends are sewn together in such a way that gives a cable mid-front.

HEADBAND:
Cast on 19-21-23 stitches a little loosely with needle size 4 MM = US 6 and 1 strand of each color DROPS Alpaca (= 2 strands). Work 1 RIDGE back and forth – read description above.
You now continue with 1 edge stitch on each side, which are slipped as if to knit at the beginning of each row and knitted at the end of each row – this applies to EVERY row.
Work ENGLISH RIB (back and forth) – read description above, with 1 edge stitch on each side. Read ENGLISH RIB STITCH.
REMEMBER THE KNITTING GAUGE!
When the headband measures 49-51-53 cm = 19 1/4"-20"-21" from the cast-on edge – read KNITTING TIP, work 1 ridge. Loosely bind off with knit from the right side.

ASSEMBLY:
The piece is a rectangle. Fold it double lengthwise – see diagram A.1.
Now put the long sides together in layers, without twisting the piece – see diagram A.2. The ends are alternately inside and outside of each other and edge to edge, - see diagram A.3.
Sew through all layers along the broken line in diagram A.4 (across the ends); sew with tight casting stitches, 1 stitch in each stitch – it is important to sew through all the layers so the seam is invisible when the band is turned inside-out.
Cut and fasten the strand. Turn the piece inside-out, so the seam is on the inside.

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VEST – SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE:
The front and back pieces are worked back and forth with circular needle, then sewn together at the shoulders. The double neck is worked in the round to finish.

BACK PIECE:
Cast on 88-94-100 stitches with circular needle size 5 MM = US 8 and 1 strand of each color DROPS Alpaca (= 2 strands).
You now continue with 1 edge stitch on each side of the piece which are slipped as if to knit at the beginning of each row and knitted at the end of each row – this applies to EVERY row:
Work the edge stitch, * knit 2 together (= 1 stitch decreased), make 1 yarn over, slip 1 stitch as if to purl *, work from *-* until there are 3 stitches left, knit 2 together (= 1 stitch decreased) and 1 edge stitch. There are 59-63-67 stitches. Read ENGLISH RIB STITCH.
Continue rows 2 and 3 of ENGLISH RIB back and forth – read description above.
REMEMBER THE KNITTING GAUGE!
When the piece measures 46-48-50 cm = 18"-19"-19 3/4", bind off the middle 19 stitches for the neck and each shoulder is finished separately. Bind off 2 stitches on the next row from the neck = 18-20-22 stitches on the shoulder. Continue with English rib and 1 edge stitch on each side. When the piece measures 48-50-52 cm = 19"-19 3/4"-20 1/2" bind off with knit; to avoid the bind-off edge being tight, the yarn-overs are bind off as separate stitches.
Work the other shoulder in the same way.

FRONT PIECE:
Cast on 88-94-100 stitches with circular needle size 5 MM = US 8 and 1 strand of each color DROPS Alpaca (= 2 strands).
You now continue with 1 edge stitch on each side of the piece which are slipped as if to knit at the beginning of each row and knitted at the end of the row – this applies to every row:
Work the edge stitch, * knit 2 together (= 1 stitch decreased), make 1 yarn over, slip 1 stitch as if to purl *, work from *-* until there are 3 stitches left, knit 2 together (= 1 stitch decreased) and 1 edge stitch. There are 59-63-67 stitches.
Continue rows 2 and 3 of English rib back and forth
When the piece measures 17-19-21 cm = 6 3/4"-7 1/2"-8 1/4" – adjust so the next row is from the right side, insert 2 markers as follows: 1 marker in the 6th-8th-10th stitch from each side (= purled stitch in the pattern). On the next row from the right side, start to displace stitches, decreasing and increasing as follows:
Work the first 6-8-10 stitches as before, increase 2 stitches in the next stitch – read INCREASE TIP, work the next 8 stitches, decrease 2 stitches – read DECREASE TIP, work until there are 11 stitches left before the next marker, decrease 2 stitches – remember DECREASE TIP, work the next 8 stitches, increase 2 stitches in the next stitch – remember INCREASE TIP, work the last 6-8-10 stitches. You have both increased and decreased 4 stitches. Decrease and increase like this every 14th row (every 7th knitted stitch in height) a total of 7 times.
Continue working until the piece measures 42-44-46 cm = 16 1/2"-17 1/4"-18". Now place the middle 11 stitches on a thread for the neck and finish each shoulder separately. Bind off on each row from the neck as follows: 2 stitches 3 times = 18-20-22 stitches on the shoulder. Continue with English rib and 1 edge stitch on each side. When the piece measures 48-50-52 cm = 19"-19 3/4"-20 1/2" bind off with knit; to avoid the bind-off edge being tight, the yarn-overs are bind off as separate stitches.
Work the other shoulder in the same way.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew the shoulder seams, inside the bind-off edge.

HIGH NECK:
Start approx. mid-back and knit up 26 stitches as far as the thread in front, work the stitches from the thread as before, knit up 27 stitches to mid-back = 64 stitches. Work ENGLISH RIB in the round – read description above, making sure the English rib is continued as before above the thread.
When the neck measures 24 cm = 9 1/2", bind off with knit over the English rib and purl over purl – to avoid the bind-off edge being tight, the yarn-overs are bind off as separate stitches. Fold the neck to the outside or inside as in the picture. If the neck is folded to the inside it can be sewn so that it becomes a double neck. To avoid the neck being tight and rolling outwards, it is important that the seam is elastic.

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

diagram measurements
signature-image signature

Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 225-13) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (10)

country flag Sabine wrote:

Jeg er i tvivl om starten på vest opskriften: "strik 2 masker ret sammen (= 1 maske taget ind), slå om, tag 1 maske løs af pinden som om den skulle strikkes vrang *... Der er nu 59-63-67 masker på pinden." Hvorfor vil vi gerne tage masker ind på den allerførste pind? og hvis jeg strikker to sammen og slå om så bliver der vel ikke færre masker?

18.01.2022 - 11:46

DROPS Design answered:

Hei Sabine. Jo, patentstrikk er veldig tøyelig og da er det viktig at oppleggskanten ikke strammer. Så da legger man opp mange masker for så å minske maskeantallet før man starter på patentstrikk. mvh DROPS Design

18.01.2022 kl. 14:10

country flag JUNGHWA CHO wrote:

"Work the first 6 stitches as before, increase 2 stitches in the next stitch, work the next 8 stitches, decrease 2 stitches work until there are 11 stitches left before the next marker, decrease 2 stitches, work the next 8 stitches, increase 2 stitches in the next stitch, work the last 6 stitches. " Should I have to increase 2 stitches after the first 6 stitches each time? Are the other parts the same? When I tried it, it didn't look the same as the clothes on the screen.

17.12.2021 - 19:55

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Junghwa, yes, you increase 2 stitches after the first 6 stitches each time you work this way, that is, every 14th row. Happy knitting!

19.12.2021 kl. 20:44

country flag Lena Lilja-From wrote:

Önskar en bra förklaring hur jag gör "förskjutningen"

02.12.2021 - 10:01

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Lena. Vilken del av förskjutningen är det du har problem med? Du sätter en markör det antal maskor in som uppges för din storlek på varje sida. Sedan ökar du maskor på utsidan av markörerna och minskar på insidan enligt beskrivningen. Mvh DROPS Design

02.12.2021 kl. 10:55

country flag Michele Leijten wrote:

Goedendag, bedankt voor het snelle antwoord. Dan heb ik nog een vraagje. Die 6e (8e/10e) steek waar je de marker in moet doen, tel je daarbij de kantsteek mee of juist niet? En in de tekst staat dat dit een averechts steek is (waar de marker in gaat), maar is dat gezien vanaf de goede kant of de verkeerde kant? Groetjes Michele

12.10.2021 - 12:57

DROPS Design answered:

Dag Michelle,

Staat inderdaad niet duidelijk aangegeven, maar omdat je hem in een averechte steek plaats, maak ik daarop uit dat je de kantsteek niet meetelt.

13.10.2021 kl. 08:03

country flag Michele Leijten wrote:

Moet je de marker steeds op dezelfde plek houden bij de verschillende "displacements" (dus bijv steeds in de 6e steek)? Of verplaats je de marker mee naar het midden toe (en zo ja hoe)? Op de foto lijken de meerderingen steeds verder van de rand af te zitten hoe hoger je komt. Ik heb een proeflapje gebreid en het ziet er niet zo uit als op de foto

07.10.2021 - 20:43

DROPS Design answered:

Dag Michele,

De markeerders blijven op dezelfde plek zitten, door de minderingen en meerderingen komen er aan de ene kant van de markeerdraad steken bij en aan de andere kant gaan er steken af, maar je laat de markeerdraad steeds in dezelfde steken zitten.

12.10.2021 kl. 10:37

country flag Josephina Rietstra wrote:

Hallo, Klopt het dat vanaf 15 oktober de producten waar alpaca in verwerkt zit in de actie komen met 30-35% korting in Nederland? Ik zou graag drops sky willen bestellen. Ik hoor graag van u. Met vriendelijke groet, Josephina Rietstra

07.10.2021 - 14:36

DROPS Design answered:

Dag Josephina,

Dat klopt inderdaad, vanaf half oktober zijn de garens met alpaca in de aanbieding. Het bestellen van garens gaat via een van de verkooppunten die onze artikelen verkopen; wij verkopen geen garens via de site. Via deze link vind je een lijst met verkooppunten.

07.10.2021 kl. 19:07

country flag Nini wrote:

Lovely layer. No arms is great for thin coat sleeves.

07.08.2021 - 10:09

country flag Carly wrote:

I love the lines and neutral colors. I love summer and this is making me wish for winter!! 🤦‍♀️👍

03.08.2021 - 22:43

country flag Cornelia Achenbach wrote:

Sehr schöner Patentpulli, aber ohne Ärmel ein Unding. Das Ärmelmuster sollte als Alternative beigefügt werden.

03.08.2021 - 18:58

country flag Alena wrote:

Zajímavě řešený komplet

03.08.2021 - 17:53

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