DROPS Cotton Light
DROPS Cotton Light
50% Cotton, 50% Polyester
from 1.80 $ /50g
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 18.00$. Read more.

Doves Bay Cardigan

Knitted jacket in DROPS Cotton Light or DROPS Sky. The piece is worked with lace pattern, cables and textured pattern. Sizes S - XXXL.

DROPS 221-9
DROPS Design: Pattern no cl-113
Yarn group B
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SIZES:
S - M - L - XL - XXL – XXXL

Finished measurements:
Chest measurements: 94-106-112-122-134-146 cm = 37"-41 3/4"-44"-48"-52 3/4"-57 3/8"
Full length: 45-47-49-51-53-55 cm = 17 3/4"-18 1/2"-19 1/4"-20"-21"-21 5/8"
All measurements in charts are in cm.

MATERIALS:
DROPS COTTON LIGHT from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group B)
500-550-600-650-700-800 g color 02, white

Or use:
DROPS SKY from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group B)
300-300-350-350-400-450 g color 01, white

KNITTING GAUGE:
21 stitches in width and 28 rows in height with stockinette stitch = 10 x 10 cm = 4” x 4”.

NEEDLES:
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 4 MM = US 6: Length 60 cm = 24” or 80 cm = 32” for stockinette stitch and pattern.
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 3 MM = US 2.5: Length 60 cm = 24” or 80 cm = 32” for edges.
DROPS CABLE NEEDLE: for cables.
Needle size is only a guide. If you get too many stitches on 10 cm = 4”, change to a larger needle size. If you get too few stitches on 10 cm = 4”, change to a smaller needle size.

DROPS MOTHER OF PEARL BUTTONS, Arched (white) NO 522: 5-5-6-6-6-6 items.

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Knitting tension – See how to measure it and why here
Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Cotton Light
DROPS Cotton Light
50% Cotton, 50% Polyester
from 1.80 $ /50g
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 18.00$. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
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EXPLANATIONS FOR THE PATTERN:

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RIDGE/GARTER STITCH (worked back and forth):
Knit all rows.
1 ridge in height = Knit 2 rows.

PATTERN:
See diagrams A.1 and A.2. Choose diagram for your size (applies to A.2). The diagrams show all rows in the pattern from the right side.

MOSS STITCH:
ROW 1: * Knit 1, purl 1 *, work from *-*.
ROW 2: Purl over knit and knit over purl
Repeat row 2.

INCREASE TIP (for sleeves):
Increase on the inside of the edge stitch. All increases are worked from the right side!
Increase 1 stitch by making 1 yarn over. On the next row work the yarn over twisted to avoid a hole. Then work the new stitch into A.1.

BUTTONHOLES:
Work buttonholes on the right band from the right side. 1 BUTTONHOLE = knit the third and fourth stitch from the edge together and make 1 yarn over. On the next row knit the yarn over to leave a hole.
Work the buttonholes when the piece measures:
S: 2, 11, 20 and 29 cm = 3/4", 4 3/8", 8" and 11 3/8".
M: 2, 12, 21 and 31 cm = 3/4", 4 3/4", 8 1/4" and 12 1/4".
L: 2, 10, 18, 26 and 34 cm = 3/4", 4", 7", 10 1/4" and 13 3/8".
XL: 2, 10, 19, 27 and 36 cm = 3/4", 4", 7 1/2", 10 5/8" and 14 1/4".
XXL: 2, 10, 19, 27 and 36 cm = 3/4", 4", 7 1/2", 10 5/8" and 14 1/4".
XXXL: 2, 11, 20, 29 and 38 cm = 3/4", 4 3/8", 8", 11 3/8" and 15".
NOTE: The last buttonhole, which is not described here, is worked on the neck.

BINDING-OFF TIP:
To avoid the bind-off edge being tight you can bind off with a larger size needle. If the edge is still tight, make 1 yarn over after approx. each 6th stitch at the same time as binding off; the yarn overs are bind off as normal stitches.

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START THE PIECE HERE:

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JACKET – SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE:
The piece is worked in sections, back and forth with circular needle and bottom up. The piece is sewn together and a ribbed neck is worked to finish.

BACK PIECE:
Cast on 101-113-119-131-143-155 stitches (including 1 edge stitch on each side) with circular needle size 3 MM = US 2.5 and Cotton Light or Sky. Purl 1 row (= wrong side).
The next row is worked as follows from the right side: 1 edge stitch in GARTER STITCH – read description above, * knit 1, purl 1 *, work from *-* until there are 2 stitches left, knit 1 and 1 edge stitch in garter stitch. Continue this rib for 2 cm = 3/4".
Change to circular needle size 4 MM = US 6 and work 2 rows of stockinette stitch with 1 edge stitch in garter stitch on each side.
Continue as follows from the right side: 1 edge stitch in garter stitch, work A.1 until there are 4 stitches left on the row (= 16-18-19-21-23-25 repeats of 6 stitches), work the first 3 stitches in A.1 so the pattern is symmetrical and finish with 1 edge stitch in garter stitch.
Continue this pattern. REMEMBER THE KNITTING GAUGE!
When the piece measures 26-27-28-29-30-31 cm = 10 1/4"-10 5/8"-11"-11 3/8"-11 3/4"-12 1/4", bind off for the armholes at the beginning of each row as follows: Bind off 3 stitches 1-1-1-1-2-2 times, 2 stitches 0-1-1-3-3-4 times and 1 stitch 2-4-5-5-6-8 times on each side = 91-95-99-103-107-111 stitches.
When the piece measures 43-45-47-49-51-53 cm = 17"-17 3/4"-18 1/2"-19 1/4"-20"-21", bind off the middle 33-33-35-35-37-37 stitches for the neck and each shoulder is finished separately. Continue the pattern and bind off 2 stitches on the next row from the neck = 27-29-30-32-33-35 stitches on the shoulder. Continue working until the piece measures 44-46-48-50-52-54 cm = 17 1/4"-18"-19"-19 3/4"-20 1/2"-21 1/4". Knit 1 row from the right side and knit 1 row from the wrong side. Bind off with knit from the right side. Work the other shoulder in the same way. The back piece measures approx. 45-47-49-51-53-55 cm = 17 3/4"-18 1/2"-19 1/4"-20"-21"-21 5/8" from the shoulder down.

RIGHT FRONT PIECE:
Cast on 60-66-68-74-80-86 stitches (including 5 band stitches towards mid front and 1 edge stitch towards the side) with circular needle size 3 MM = US 2.5 and Cotton Light or Sky. Purl 1 row (= wrong side). The next row is worked as follows from the right side (i.e. from mid front): Work 5 band stitches in MOSS STITCH – read description above, * knit 1, purl 1 *, work from *-* until there is 1 stitch left and finish with 1 edge stitch in garter stitch. Continue this rib for 2 cm = 3/4".
Change to circular needle size 4 MM = US 6. Work 2 rows of stockinette stitch with 5 band stitches in moss stitch towards mid front and 1 edge stitch in garter stitch towards the side; at the same time decrease 1-1-0-0-0-0 stitch on the first row = 59-65-68-74-80-86 stitches. Remember the BUTTONHOLES on the band – read description above.
Then work as follows from the right side (i.e. from mid-front): 5 band stitches in moss stitch, work A.2 (= 25-25-25-29-29-29 stitches), 1-1-4-0-0-0 stitches in stockinette stitch, work A.1 until there are 4 stitches left (= 4-5-5-6-7-8 repeats of 6 stitches), work the first 3 stitches in A.1 and finish with 1 edge stitch in garter stitch. Continue this pattern.
When the piece measures 26-27-28-29-30-31 cm = 10 1/4"-10 5/8"-11"-11 3/8"-11 3/4"-12 1/4", bind off for the armhole at the beginning of each row from the wrong side as follows: Bind off 3 stitches 1-1-1-1-2-2 times, 2 stitches 0-1-1-3-3-4 times and 1 stitch 2-4-5-5-6-8 times = 54-56-58-60-62-64 stitches.
When the piece measures 36-38-39-41-42-44 cm = 14 1/4"-15"-15 1/4"-16 1/8"-16 1/2"-17 1/4", decrease 2 stitches over the cable closest to the band by knitting the stitches in the cable together, 2 and 2 = 52-54-56-58-60-62 stitches.
On the next row from the right side place the first 11-11-12-12-13-13 stitches on a thread for the neck; to avoid having to cut the strand work the stitches before placing them on the thread.
Continue the pattern and bind off for the neck at the beginning of each row from the neck as follows: Bind off 3 stitches 1 time, 2 stitches 3 times and 1 stitch 3 times = 29-31-32-34-35-37 stitches left on the shoulder. Continue working until the piece measures 44-46-48-50-52-54 cm = 17 1/4"-18"-19"-19 3/4"-20 1/2"-21 1/4". Knit 1 row from the right side where you decrease 2 stitches evenly spaced = 27-29-30-32-33-35 stitches. Knit 1 row from the wrong side. Bind off with knit from the right side. The front piece measures approx. 45-47-49-51-53-55 cm = 17 3/4"-18 1/2"-19 1/4"-20"-21"-21 5/8".

LEFT FRONT PIECE:
Cast on 60-66-68-74-80-86 stitches (including 5 band stitches towards mid front and 1 edge stitch towards the side) with circular needle size 3 MM = US 2.5 and Cotton Light or Sky. Purl 1 row (= wrong side). The next row is worked as follows from the right side (i.e. from the side): Work 1 edge stitch in garter stitch, * purl 1, knit 1 *, work from *-* until there are 5 stitches left and finish with 5 band stitches in moss stitch. Continue this rib for 2 cm = 3/4".
Change to circular needle size 4 MM = US 6. Work 2 rows of stockinette stitch with 5 band stitches in moss stitch towards mid front and 1 edge stitch in garter stitch towards the side; at the same time decrease 1-1-0-0-0-0 stitch on the first row = 59-65-68-74-80-86 stitches.
Then work as follows from the right side (i.e. from the side): 1 edge stitch in garter stitch, work A.1 over the next 24-30-30-36-42-48 stitches (= 4-5-5-6-7-8 repeats of 6 stitches), work the first 3 stitches in A.1, work 1-1-4-0-0-0 stitches in stockinette stitch, A.2 (= 25-25-25-29-29-29 stitches) and finish with 5 band stitches in moss stitch. Continue this pattern.
When the piece measures 26-27-28-29-30-31 cm = 10 1/4"-10 5/8"-11"-11 3/8"-11 3/4"-12 1/4", bind off for the armhole at the beginning of each row from the right side as follows: Bind off 3 stitches 1-1-1-1-2-2 times, 2 stitches 0-1-1-3-3-4 times and 1 stitch 2-4-5-5-6-8 times = 54-56-58-60-62-64 stitches.
When the piece measures 36-38-39-41-42-44 cm = 14 1/4"-15"-15 1/4"-16 1/8"-16 1/2"-17 1/4", decrease 2 stitches over the cable closest to the band by knitting the stitches in the cable together, 2 and 2 = 52-54-56-58-60-62 stitches.
On the next row from the wrong side place the first 11-11-12-12-13-13 stitches on a thread for the neck; to avoid having to cut the strand work the stitches before placing them on the thread.
Continue the pattern and bind off for the neck at the beginning of each row from the neck as follows: Bind off 3 stitches 1 time, 2 stitches 3 times and 1 stitch 3 times = 29-31-32-34-35-37 stitches left on the shoulder. Continue working until the piece measures 44-46-48-50-52-54 cm = 17 1/4"-18"-19"-19 3/4"-20 1/2"-21 1/4". Knit 1 row from the right side where you decrease 2 stitches evenly spaced = 27-29-30-32-33-35 stitches. Knit 1 row from the wrong side. Bind off with knit from the right side. The front piece measures approx. 45-47-49-51-53-55 cm = 17 3/4"-18 1/2"-19 1/4"-20"-21"-21 5/8".
SLEEVE:
Cast on 46-48-50-52-54-56 stitches (including 1 edge stitch on each side) with circular needle size 3 MM = US 2.5 and Cotton Light or Sky. Purl 1 row (= wrong side).
Then work rib (knit 1, purl 1) with 1 edge stitch in garter stitch on each side for 2 cm = 3/4".
Change to circular needle size 4 MM = US 6. Work 2 rows of stockinette stitch with 1 edge stitch in garter stitch on each side.
Then continue as follows (row 1 = right side): 1 edge stitch in garter stitch, 1-2-0-1-2-0 stitches in stockinette stitch, work A.1 until there are 2-3-1-2-3-1 stitches left on the row, work 1-2-0-1-2-0 stitches in stockinette stitch and 1 edge stitch in garter stitch. Continue this pattern.
When the sleeve measures 4-4-8-5-9-6 cm = 1 1/2"-1 1/2"-3 1/8"-2"-3 1/2"-2 3/8", increase 1 stitch on each side – read INCREASE TIP. Increase like this every 3-2½-2-2-1½-1½ cm = 1 1/8"-1"-3/4"-3/4"-1/2"-1/2" a total of 14-16-17-19-20-22 times on each side = 74-80-84-90-94-100 stitches.
When the sleeve measures 45-44-44-43-41-40 cm = 17 3/4"-17 1/4"-17 1/4"-17"-16 1/8"-15 3/4" (shorter measurements in larger sizes due to longer sleeve cap and broader shoulders), bind off for the sleeve cap at the beginning of each row as follows: Bind off 3 stitches 1-1-1-1-2-2 times, 2 stitches 2-2-2-3-3-3 times and 1 stitch 2-4-4-4-6-7 times on each side. Then bind off 2 stitches on each side until the sleeve measures 50 cm = 19 3/4" in all sizes. Bind off 3 stitches 1 time on each side. Then bind off the remaining stitches. The sleeve measures approx. 51 cm = 20" from the top down in all sizes. Work the other sleeve in the same way.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew the shoulder seams inside the bind-off edges. Sew the sleeves to the body, inside the 1 edge stitch on the body. Sew the sleeve and side seams in one go, inside the 1 edge stitch.

NECK:
Start from the right side and knit up 101 to 115 stitches around the neck (including the stitches from the threads in front) with circular needle size 3 MM = US 2.5 and Cotton Light or Sky – the number of stitches should be divisible by 2 + 1.
The first row is worked as follows from the wrong side: 5 band stitches in moss stitch, * purl 1, knit 1 *, work from *-* until there are 6 stitches left, purl 1 and finish with 5 band stitches in moss stitch. Continue this rib for 3 cm = 1 1/8", but after 1 cm = 3/8" work the last buttonhole on the right band.
When the neck is finished, bind off with knit over knit and purl over purl – read BINDING-OFF TIP!
Sew the buttons onto the left band.

This pattern has been corrected.

Updated online: 03.05.2022
New diagram A.1.

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

symbols = knit from right side, purl from wrong side
symbols = purl from right side, knit from wrong side
symbols = between 2 stitches make 1 yarn over
symbols = knit 2 together
symbols = slip 1 stitch as if to knit, knit 1 and pass the slipped stitch over the knitted stitch
symbols = place 2 stitches on cable needle behind the piece, knit 2, knit 2 from cable needle
symbols = place 2 stitches on cable needle in front of the piece, knit 2, knit 2 from cable needle
symbols = Bobble: Knit 1, purl 1, knit 1 in same stitch (= 3 stitches in the bobble, i.e. 2 stitches increased). Work 3 rows stockinette stitch back and forth over these 3 stitches. On the next row (right side) knit the 3 stitches together (= 2 stitches decreased)
diagram
diagram

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (24)

country flag Tad wrote:

Hello, I don't understand the right piece can you explain me? What do you mean by 5 band stitch? in moss stich? Thank you

04.01.2024 - 12:11

country flag Bar wrote:

Y a t il un moyen que je vous envoie la photo du A1 quej'ai tricoté (113)? Car je pense avoir quelque chose de different....

17.11.2023 - 19:52

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Bar, vous pouvez envoyer votre photo à votre magasin (si vous ne pouvez pas lui apporter votre ouvrage directement pour lui montrer), ou bien demander à d'autres tricoteuses dans notre groupe DROPS Workshop. Bon tricot!

20.11.2023 - 09:24

country flag Barathi wrote:

Bonjour, Je peux avoir un apercu à ce que devrait ressembler le diagramme A1 sur la laine?(27 cm) J'ai quelque chose mais je ne suis pas sur

16.11.2023 - 18:21

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Barathi, on le voit un peu sur la 3ème photo, à droite du motif ajouré/torsades: A.1 se tricote en jersey endroit avec les carrés noirs qui sont des mailles jersey envers (ces mailles sont tricotées à l'envers sur l'endroit). Bon tricot!

17.11.2023 - 08:19

country flag Diane Gapes wrote:

Is there a video for back on Doves Bay Cardigan DROPS 221 because I am confused by A.1 pattern

12.10.2023 - 10:09

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Mrs Gapes, work row 1, 2, 4,5,6,7,8,10,11,12 in stocking stitch (= K from RS, P from WS), and work row 3 as follows: (K1, P1, K4), repeat from (to), and end with first 3 sts (= K1, P1, K1). Work row 9 as follows: (K4, P1, K1), repeat from (to) and end with first 3 sts (= K3). Happy knitting!

12.10.2023 - 14:23

country flag Barathi wrote:

Bonjour, je n'ai pas compris cette partie Continuer sur l'endroit ainsi: 1 maille lisière au point mousse, répéter A.1 jusqu'à ce qu'il reste 4 mailles (= 16-18-19-21-23-25 motifs de 6 mailles), tricoter les 3 premières mailles de A.1 pour que le motif soit symétrique et terminer par 1 maille lisière au point mousse. Sur le digramme il n'y a que 6 mailles alors que j'en ai 101 ?

11.10.2023 - 09:33

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Barathi, tricotez vos 101 mailles ainsi: 1 maille lisière, répétez 16 fois les 6 mailles de A.1, tricotez maintenant les 3 premières mailles de A.1 et terminez par 1 maille lisière soit: 1 + 16x6 + 3 + 1 = 101. Le motif de A.1 est ainsi symétrique. Sur l'envers, tricotez les 3 premières mailles en commençant par la 3ème (on lit sur l'envers de gauche à droite) et répétez A.1 en lisant également le diagramme de gauche à droite. Bon tricot!

12.10.2023 - 09:22

country flag Liz M wrote:

When knitting the front panel do I cast on 74 + 5 for band and 1 for edge or work within the original count.?

06.10.2022 - 01:06

DROPS Design answered:

Hi Liz, The 74 stitches includes the band and edge stitches (so only cast on 74 stitches). Happy knitting!

06.10.2022 - 06:56

country flag Michelle Forbes wrote:

Hello I am working the Right Front. SIZE L Do I work the first neck cast off immediately (3st) after I have place band stitches on a thread, and do I work the remaining cast offs on following right side rows ? Assumimg it takes 2 rows to complete a cast for my size L it will require I work 14 rows. Am I correct?

02.07.2022 - 10:45

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Michelle, start casting off after placing stitches on thread. Then, cast off for the neck as explained in the pattern. You cast off when working rows that start from the neck, that is, on the right side of the work. So, you will work these decreases for 14 rows in total (decreasing on 7 rows on the right side). Afterwards, work over the shoulder stitches, without decreasing until the work measures 48 cm for size L and work evenly spaced decreases. Happy knitting!

02.07.2022 - 16:42

country flag Sanna Rosengren wrote:

Hi, is there a mistake in the diagram for A1? There are different numbers of rows between the ones with purl st (from the R side) - 4 in one case and 3 in the other. Are they supposed to be the same? Thank you!

01.05.2022 - 19:34

DROPS Design answered:

Hei Sanna. Suppose to be like you see in the chart. Happy Knitting/ Drops Design

02.05.2022 - 14:31

country flag Eva-Pia Virkkunen wrote:

Olen tulostanut ohjeen 221-9 suomenkielellä. Mutta ohjeen DROPS 221-9 ruutupiirros ei tule näkyviin ei liioin diagram förklaring suomenkielellä.

31.03.2022 - 14:47

country flag Hacquard wrote:

Bonjour Comment tricoter les rangs envers sur ce modele avec des aiguilles droites. Est ce que les rangs envers figurent sur le diagramme. Merci de votre réponse.

27.11.2021 - 15:26

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Hacquard, tout à fait, les diagrammes montrent tous les rangs: ceux sur l'endroit (que l'on lit de droite à gauche) et ceux sur l'envers (que l'on lit de gauche à droite), autrement dit, 1 case blanche = 1 maille jersey endroit, 1 carré noir = 1 maille jersey envers (les 2 alternativement en hauteur = 1 m point mousse) - retrouvez ici d'autres infos sur les diagrammes. Bon tricot!

29.11.2021 - 07:40