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  1. Free patterns
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  5. 223
  6. 23

Big Sky Country by DROPS Design

Knitted sweater in DROPS Sky and DROPS Kid-Silk. The piece is worked with ¾-length, puffed sleeves. Sizes S - XXXL.

Keywords: 3/4 sleeves, balloon sleeves, bottom up, puff sleeves, round neck, sewn in sleeves, stocking stitch, sweater

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DROPS 223-23
DROPS Design: Pattern no sk-128
Yarn group B + A
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SIZES:
S - M - L - XL - XXL – XXXL

Finished measurements:
Chest measurements: 84-92-100-108-122-132 cm = 33"-36 1/4"-39 3/8"-42 1/2"-48"-52"
Full length: 46-48-50-52-54-56 cm = 18"-19"-19 3/4"-20 1/2"-21 1/4"-22"
All measurements in charts are in cm.

MATERIALS:
DROPS SKY from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group B)
150-150-200-200-200-250 g color 13, light jeans blue
And use:
DROPS KID-SILK from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group A)
100-100-100-125-125-150 g color 07, light sky blue

KNITTING GAUGE:
14 stitches in width and 16 rows in height with stockinette stitch and 1 strand of each quality = 10 x 10 cm = 4” x 4”.

NEEDLES:
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 6 MM = US 10.
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 6 MM = US 10: Length 40 cm = 16” and 60 cm = 24” or 80 cm = 32” for stockinette stitch.
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 5 MM = US 8.
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 5 MM = US 8: Length 40 cm = 16” and 80 cm = 32” for rib.
Needle size is only a guide. If you get too many stitches on 10 cm = 4”, change to a larger needle size. If you get too few stitches on 10 cm = 4”, change to a smaller needle size.

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Knitting tension – See how to measure it and why here
Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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74% Alpaca, 18% Polyamide, 8% Wool 		from 7.20 $ /50g
DROPS Sky uni colour DROPS Sky uni colour 7.20 $ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd 		Order
DROPS Sky mix DROPS Sky mix 7.20 $ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd 		Order

75% Mohair, 25% Silk 		from 4.75 $ /25g
DROPS Kid-Silk uni colour DROPS Kid-Silk uni colour 4.75 $ /25g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd 		Order
needles DROPS Needles & Hooks
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 40.60$. Read more.

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Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
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EXPLANATIONS FOR THE PATTERN:

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RIDGE/GARTER STITCH (worked back and forth):
Knit all rows.
1 ridge in height = Knit 2 rows.

INCREASE/DECREASE TIP (evenly spaced):
To work out how to increase/decrease evenly, count the total number of stitches on needle (e.g. 144 stitches) and divide by the number of increases/decreases to be made (e.g. 26) = 5.5.
In this example, increase by making 1 yarn over after alternately each 5th and 6th stitch. On the next row work the yarn overs twisted to avoid holes. When decreasing, knit together alternately each 4th and 5th and each 5th and 6th stitch.

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START THE PIECE HERE:

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SWEATER – SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE:
The body is worked in the round, bottom up as far as the armholes. Then the front and back pieces are finished separately, back and forth on the needle. The sleeves are worked in the round with double pointed needles/short circular needle, bottom up and the puffed sleeve cap worked back and forth to finish.

BODY:
Cast on 144-156-168-184-204-224 stitches with circular needle size 5 mm = US 8 and 1 strand Sky and 1 strand Kid-Silk (= 2 strands). Knit 1 round, then work rib (knit 2, purl 2) in the round for 4 cm = 1 1/2".
Knit 1 round where you decrease 26-26-28-32-34-38 stitches evenly spaced – read INCREASE/DECREASE TIP = 118-130-140-152-170-186 stitches. Change to circular needle size 6 mm = US 10. Insert a marker at the beginning of the round and 1 marker after 59-65-70-76-85-93 stitches (= in each side of the body). Allow the markers to follow your work onwards; they are used when working the armholes.
Work stockinette stitch in the round. REMEMBER THE KNITTING GAUGE! When the piece measures 26-27-28-29-30-31 cm = 10 1/4"-10 5/8"-11"-11 3/8"-11 3/4"-12 1/4" from the cast-on edge, bind off 8-8-10-10-12-12 stitches each side for the armholes (4-4-5-5-6-6 stitches on each side of both markers). Front and back pieces are now finished separately.

FRONT PIECE:
= 51-57-60-66-73-81 stitches. Work stockinette stitch back and forth with 1 edge stitch in GARTER STITCH – read description above, on each side. On the first row begin to shape the armholes - bind off at the beginning of each row as follows: Bind off 2 stitches 0-1-1-2-3-4 times and 1 stitch 1-1-2-2-3-4 times = 49-51-52-54-55-57 stitches. When the piece measures 37-39-40-42-43-45 cm = 14 1/2"-15 1/4"-15 3/4"-16 1/2"-17"-17 3/4" from the cast-on edge (approx. 11-12-12-13-13-14 cm = 4 3/8"-4 3/4"-4 3/4"-5 1/8"-5 1/8"-5 1/2" from the 8-8-10-10-12-12 bind-off stitches for the armholes), place the middle 11-11-12-12-13-13 stitches on a thread for the neck and each shoulder is finished separately. Continue by binding off on each row from the neck as follows: Bind off 2 stitches 2 times and 1 stitch 2 times = 13-14-14-15-15-16 stitches left on shoulder. Continue working until the piece measures a total of 46-48-50-52-54-56 cm = 18"-19"-19 3/4"-20 1/2"-21 1/4"-22" from the shoulder down. Bind off. Work the other shoulder in the same way.

BACK PIECE:
= 51-57-60-66-73-81 stitches. Work stockinette stitch back and forth with 1 edge stitch in garter stitch on each side. On the first row begin to shape the armholes - bind off at the beginning of each row as follows: Bind off 2 stitches 0-1-1-2-3-4 times and 1 stitch 1-1-2-2-3-4 times = 49-51-52-54-55-57 stitches. When the piece measures 43-45-47-49-51-53 cm = 17"-17 3/4"-18 1/2"-19 1/4"-20"-21" from the cast-on edge (approx. 17-18-19-20-21-22 cm = 6 3/4"-7"-7 1/2"-8"-8 1/4"-8 3/4" from the 8-8-10-10-12-12 bind-off stitches for the armholes), bind off the middle 21-21-22-22-23-23 stitches for the neck and each shoulder is finished separately. Continue by binding off 1 stitch on the next row from the neck = 13-14-14-15-15-16 stitches left on shoulder. Continue working until the piece measures a total of 46-48-50-52-54-56 cm = 18"-19"-19 3/4"-20 1/2"-21 1/4"-22". from the shoulder down. Bind off. Work the other shoulder in the same way.

SLEEVE:
Cast on 40-40-44-44-48-48 stitches with double pointed needles size 5 mm = US 8 and 1 strand Sky and 1 strand Kid-Silk (= 2 strands). Knit 1 round then work rib (knit 2, purl 2) in the round for 4 cm = 1 1/2". Knit 1 round where you increase 26-30-30-32-32-34 stitches evenly spaced – read INCREASE/DECREASE TIP = 66-70-74-76-80-82 stitches. Change to short circular needle size 6 MM = US 10 and insert 1 marker at the beginning of the round (= mid-under sleeve). Continue with stockinette stitch in the round until the sleeve measures 34-33-32-31-30-28 cm = 13 3/8"-13"-12 1/2"-12 1/4"-11 3/4"-11". Now decrease 8-8-10-10-12-12 stitches mid-under the sleeve (4-4-5-5-6-6 stitches on each side of the marker) = 58-62-64-66-68-70 stitches. Now work the puffed sleeve cap. Continue with stockinette stitch back and forth and bind off stitches at the beginning of each row as follows: Bind off 2 stitches 6-7-6-4-3-3 times on each side and 1 stitch 1-1-3-6-9-10 times on each side = 32-32-34-38-38-38 stitches.
On the next row work as follows: Knit 1-1-2-3-3-3, knit 2 and 2 stitches together over the next 30-30-30-32-32-32 stitches (= 15-15-15-16-16-16 stitches decreased), knit the last 1-1-2-3-3-3 stitches = 17-17-19-22-22-22 stitches. Bind off. The sleeve measures 44-44-45-45-46-46 cm = 17 1/4"-17 1/4"-17 3/4"-17 3/4"-18"-18". Work the other sleeve in the same way.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew the shoulder seams with grafting stitches. Sew in the sleeves, inside the 1 edge stitch on the body and the bind-off edge on the sleeves.

NECK:
Knit up approx. 68-80 stitches (including the stitches from the thread) with short circular needle size 5 mm = US 8 and 1 strand Sky and 1 strand Kid-Silk (= 2 strands), inside 1 stitch around the neck. The number of stitches should be divisible by 4. Work rib (knit 2, purl 2) in the round for 4 cm = 1 1/2". Bind off with knit over knit and purl over purl.

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

diagram measurements

Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 223-23) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

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Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

These step-by-step tutorials might also help you:

We have also step-by-step guides for different techniques which you'll find here.

And a very handy technical dictionary!
1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?
2) What are the yarn groups?
3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?
4) How do I use the yarn converter?
5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?
6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?
7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?
8) What is a repeat?
9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?
10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?
11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?
12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?
13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?
14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?
15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?
16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?
17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?
18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?
19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?
20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?
21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?
22) Where on the garment is the length measured?
23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (20)

country flag Nina wrote:

Synes genseren er svært kort i str, med bare 26 cm fra oppleggskant opp til maskefelling ved ermet, kan dette stemme? Og vrangborden nederst blir jo så løs da det er flere masker der enn på selve bolen, helt motsatt enn andre mønster jeg har strikket etter. Endte med at jeg må rekke opp igjen nederst, strikke lenger vrangbord hvor jeg må ha færre masker.

28.03.2023 - 08:03

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Nina, ja det er en kort genser. Du finder målene i måleskitsen nederst i opskriften (du kan naturligvis altid forlænge den) :)

12.04.2023 kl. 15:00

country flag MDL wrote:

Hello! Thank you for this lovely pattern. Is that the correct amount listed of Sky to use? For example 150g (small/medium) is only 3 skeins /570m, whereas you call for 100g (4 skeins /848m) of Kid Silk. I feel it must be closer to 5 skeins of Sky for a sweater. Thank you for your time.

13.09.2022 - 23:06

DROPS Design answered:

Hi MDL, The amounts given are correct as you are using the 2 yarns simultaneously. Happy knitting!

14.09.2022 kl. 06:58

country flag Hyejeong wrote:

For sleeves, I’m confused that K1-1-2-3-3-3, Knit 2 and 2 stitches together over the next 30-30-30-32-32-32 stitches(= 15-15-15-16-16-16 stitches decreased)...

28.02.2022 - 17:12

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Hyejeong, work this row as follows from the right side: knit 1-1-2-3-3-3 (see size), then work K2 tog a total of 15-15-15-16-16-16 times (1-1-2-3-3-3 sts remain at the end of the row), knit these last 1-1-2-3-3-3 stitches. Does it sounds now ok to you? Happy knitting!

01.03.2022 kl. 09:26

country flag Marte wrote:

Hei, jeg ønsker å lage denne genseren med lange ermer (til håndleddet). Hvor mye ekstra garn trenger jeg da?

08.02.2022 - 15:03

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Marte, du skal nok bruge 2 ekstra nøgler DROPS Sky og 1 ekstra i DROPS Kid-Silk :)

09.02.2022 kl. 10:27

country flag Debora wrote:

Bonjour, je réalise ce modèle en M et je ne suis pas sûre de comprendre la consigne sur le devant pour rabattre emmanchures; faut-il diminuer de 6 m (2x (1x2+ 1x1) sur chaque rang ? Ou a partir des 51 m, continuer jusqu'à ce que l'ouvrage mesure 39 cm depuis le montage ?

11.12.2021 - 18:18

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Debora, en taille M, rabattez pour les emmanchures 2 mailles au début des 2 rangs suivants (= 1 fois 2 m de chaque côté), puis 1 maille au début des 2 rangs suivants (1 fois 1 m de chaque côté) = il vous reste: 57-(2-2)-(1-1)=51 mailles. Les 39 cm sont ensuite mesurés depuis le rang de montage = depuis le bas du pull, lorsque vous avez monté les mailles. Bon tricot!

13.12.2021 kl. 09:15

country flag Kaden Behan wrote:

Hi, when casting off to shape the armholes for the front and back, I am slightly confused by the instructions. Take a size L, do instructions mean at the start of the first row cast off 2 stitches once and then 1 stitches 2 times totaling 4 cast-off stitches ( next to one another ) . And do you cast off these stitches for every row you work until the work measures the length stated ( 40 st for example for L) or only cast off the first row? Thank you.

07.12.2021 - 22:00

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Mrs Behan, in L you will cast off as follows: 2 sts at the beginning of the next 12 rows (= 6 times on each side), then 1 stitch at the beginning of the next 6 rows (3 times on each side) = 34 sts remain. Then work the decrease row on next row from RS to make the "puff" and cast off on next row (from WS). Happy knitting!

08.12.2021 kl. 08:11

country flag Susanne wrote:

Kan man göra arm utan puff alltså vanlig arm, och hur isåfall? Mvh Susanne

21.09.2021 - 18:34

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Susanne. Antalet maskor i ärmen är anpassat efter att det ska vara en puffärm, så om du ska göra det så behöver du anpassa antalet maskor till en vanlig ärm. Jag tror det enklaste är att välja ett mönster med vanlig ärm istället. Mvh DROPS Design

22.09.2021 kl. 10:37

country flag Hanne Hedeman wrote:

Blusen er meget lille i str m og 3 nøgler sky er ikke nok, den er meget kort Svært med strikkefasrhed.må bruge pind 6.1/2

10.07.2021 - 13:36

country flag Mieke Baras wrote:

Ik brei maat M met 156 steken. De boord van 4 cm met naalden 5 zit veel te krap. Ik kom nauwelijks aan 35 cm taillebreedte terwijl de tekening 46 cm aangeeft. Ik brei nu met naalden 6 en 7, maar het blijft even krap. Ik denk niet dat deze trui rond mijn taille zal passen. Kan u mij helpen hiermee? Wat doe ik fout? De trui moet 48cm lang worden. Dankjewel

07.05.2021 - 12:56

DROPS Design answered:

Dag Mieke,

Gebruik je 2 draden (van elke kwaliteit 1 draad) en heb je een proeflapje gemaakt om te kijken of de stekenverhouding klopt? Ik heb het nagekeken en bij de juiste stekenverhouding zouden de afmetingen overeen moeten komen met de tekening.

08.05.2021 kl. 19:08

country flag Anne Orsten wrote:

Hei. Går det an å bytte ut en tråd kidsilk og en sky, som skal brukes i denne oppskriften, med drops air?

23.04.2021 - 18:14

DROPS Design answered:

Hei Anne. Om du får den samme strikkefastheten med DROPS Air som er oppgitt i oppskriften, kan du bytte. Men DROPS Air er anbefalt på pinne 5 og med en strikkefasthet på 17 masker x 22 pinner, slik at det er en ganske forskjell med det som er i oppskriften, mvh DROPS design

26.04.2021 kl. 15:28

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