DROPS Sky
DROPS Sky
74% Alpaca, 18% Polyamide, 8% Wool
from 7.20 $ /50g
DROPS Kid-Silk
DROPS Kid-Silk
75% Mohair, 25% Silk
from 4.75 $ /25g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 40.60$.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

Big Sky Country

Knitted sweater in DROPS Sky and DROPS Kid-Silk. The piece is worked with ¾-length, puffed sleeves. Sizes S - XXXL.

DROPS 223-23
DROPS Design: Pattern no sk-128
Yarn group B + A
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SIZES:
S - M - L - XL - XXL – XXXL

Finished measurements:
Chest measurements: 84-92-100-108-122-132 cm = 33"-36¼"-39⅜"-42½"-48"-52"
Full length: 46-48-50-52-54-56 cm = 18"-19"-19¾"-20½"-21¼"-22"
All measurements in charts are in cm.

MATERIALS:
DROPS SKY from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group B)
150-150-200-200-200-250 g color 13, light jeans blue
And use:
DROPS KID-SILK from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group A)
100-100-100-125-125-150 g color 07, light sky blue

KNITTING GAUGE:
14 stitches in width and 16 rows in height with stockinette stitch and 1 strand of each quality = 10 x 10 cm = 4" x 4".

NEEDLES:
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 6 MM = US 10.
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 6 MM = US 10: Length 40 cm = 16" and 60 cm = 24" or 80 cm = 32" for stockinette stitch.
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 5 MM = US 8.
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 5 MM = US 8: Length 40 cm = 16" and 80 cm = 32" for rib.
Needle size is only a guide. If you get too many stitches on 10 cm = 4", change to a larger needle size. If you get too few stitches on 10 cm = 4", change to a smaller needle size.

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Sky
DROPS Sky
74% Alpaca, 18% Polyamide, 8% Wool
from 7.20 $ /50g
DROPS Kid-Silk
DROPS Kid-Silk
75% Mohair, 25% Silk
from 4.75 $ /25g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 40.60$.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
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EXPLANATIONS FOR THE PATTERN:

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RIDGE/GARTER STITCH (worked back and forth):
Knit all rows.
1 ridge in height = Knit 2 rows.

INCREASE/DECREASE TIP (evenly spaced):
To work out how to increase/decrease evenly, count the total number of stitches on needle (e.g. 144 stitches) and divide by the number of increases/decreases to be made (e.g. 26) = 5.5.
In this example, increase by making 1 yarn over after alternately each 5th and 6th stitch. On the next row work the yarn overs twisted to avoid holes. When decreasing, knit together alternately each 4th and 5th and each 5th and 6th stitch.

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START THE PIECE HERE:

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SWEATER – SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE:
The body is worked in the round, bottom up as far as the armholes. Then the front and back pieces are finished separately, back and forth on the needle. The sleeves are worked in the round with double pointed needles/short circular needle, bottom up and the puffed sleeve cap worked back and forth to finish.

BODY:
Cast on 144-156-168-184-204-224 stitches with circular needle size 5 mm = US 8 and 1 strand Sky and 1 strand Kid-Silk (= 2 strands). Knit 1 round, then work rib (knit 2, purl 2) in the round for 4 cm = 1½".
Knit 1 round where you decrease 26-26-28-32-34-38 stitches evenly spaced – read INCREASE/DECREASE TIP = 118-130-140-152-170-186 stitches. Change to circular needle size 6 mm = US 10. Insert a marker at the beginning of the round and 1 marker after 59-65-70-76-85-93 stitches (= in each side of the body). Allow the markers to follow your work onwards; they are used when working the armholes.
Work stockinette stitch in the round. REMEMBER THE KNITTING GAUGE! When the piece measures 26-27-28-29-30-31 cm = 10¼"-10⅝"-11"-11⅜"-11¾"-12¼" from the cast-on edge, bind off 8-8-10-10-12-12 stitches each side for the armholes (4-4-5-5-6-6 stitches on each side of both markers). Front and back pieces are now finished separately.

FRONT PIECE:
= 51-57-60-66-73-81 stitches. Work stockinette stitch back and forth with 1 edge stitch in GARTER STITCH – read description above, on each side. On the first row begin to shape the armholes - bind off at the beginning of each row as follows: Bind off 2 stitches 0-1-1-2-3-4 times and 1 stitch 1-1-2-2-3-4 times = 49-51-52-54-55-57 stitches. When the piece measures 37-39-40-42-43-45 cm = 14½"-15¼"-15¾"-16½"-17"-17¾" from the cast-on edge (approx. 11-12-12-13-13-14 cm = 4⅜"-4¾"-4¾"-5⅛"-5⅛"-5½" from the 8-8-10-10-12-12 bind-off stitches for the armholes), place the middle 11-11-12-12-13-13 stitches on a thread for the neck and each shoulder is finished separately. Continue by binding off on each row from the neck as follows: Bind off 2 stitches 2 times and 1 stitch 2 times = 13-14-14-15-15-16 stitches left on shoulder. Continue working until the piece measures a total of 46-48-50-52-54-56 cm = 18"-19"-19¾"-20½"-21¼"-22" from the shoulder down. Bind off. Work the other shoulder in the same way.

BACK PIECE:
= 51-57-60-66-73-81 stitches. Work stockinette stitch back and forth with 1 edge stitch in garter stitch on each side. On the first row begin to shape the armholes - bind off at the beginning of each row as follows: Bind off 2 stitches 0-1-1-2-3-4 times and 1 stitch 1-1-2-2-3-4 times = 49-51-52-54-55-57 stitches. When the piece measures 43-45-47-49-51-53 cm = 17"-17¾"-18½"-19¼"-20"-21" from the cast-on edge (approx. 17-18-19-20-21-22 cm = 6¾"-7"-7½"-8"-8¼"-8¾" from the 8-8-10-10-12-12 bind-off stitches for the armholes), bind off the middle 21-21-22-22-23-23 stitches for the neck and each shoulder is finished separately. Continue by binding off 1 stitch on the next row from the neck = 13-14-14-15-15-16 stitches left on shoulder. Continue working until the piece measures a total of 46-48-50-52-54-56 cm = 18"-19"-19¾"-20½"-21¼"-22". from the shoulder down. Bind off. Work the other shoulder in the same way.

SLEEVE:
Cast on 40-40-44-44-48-48 stitches with double pointed needles size 5 mm = US 8 and 1 strand Sky and 1 strand Kid-Silk (= 2 strands). Knit 1 round then work rib (knit 2, purl 2) in the round for 4 cm = 1½". Knit 1 round where you increase 26-30-30-32-32-34 stitches evenly spaced – read INCREASE/DECREASE TIP = 66-70-74-76-80-82 stitches. Change to short circular needle size 6 MM = US 10 and insert 1 marker at the beginning of the round (= mid-under sleeve). Continue with stockinette stitch in the round until the sleeve measures 34-33-32-31-30-28 cm = 13⅜"-13"-12½"-12¼"-11¾"-11". Now decrease 8-8-10-10-12-12 stitches mid-under the sleeve (4-4-5-5-6-6 stitches on each side of the marker) = 58-62-64-66-68-70 stitches. Now work the puffed sleeve cap. Continue with stockinette stitch back and forth and bind off stitches at the beginning of each row as follows: Bind off 2 stitches 6-7-6-4-3-3 times on each side and 1 stitch 1-1-3-6-9-10 times on each side = 32-32-34-38-38-38 stitches.
On the next row work as follows: Knit 1-1-2-3-3-3, knit 2 and 2 stitches together over the next 30-30-30-32-32-32 stitches (= 15-15-15-16-16-16 stitches decreased), knit the last 1-1-2-3-3-3 stitches = 17-17-19-22-22-22 stitches. Bind off. The sleeve measures 44-44-45-45-46-46 cm = 17¼"-17¼"-17¾"-17¾"-18"-18". Work the other sleeve in the same way.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew the shoulder seams with grafting stitches. Sew in the sleeves, inside the 1 edge stitch on the body and the bind-off edge on the sleeves.

NECK:
Knit up approx. 68-80 stitches (including the stitches from the thread) with short circular needle size 5 mm = US 8 and 1 strand Sky and 1 strand Kid-Silk (= 2 strands), inside 1 stitch around the neck. The number of stitches should be divisible by 4. Work rib (knit 2, purl 2) in the round for 4 cm = 1½". Bind off with knit over knit and purl over purl.

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

diagram measurements

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (25)

country flag Dela wrote:

Hola, estoy haciendo este modelo en S y no termino de comprender la consigna del delantero para cerrar los puntos; tendría que cerrar 2 puntos (uno al principio y otro al final de la vuelta= 1*1) cada vuelta hasta que la labor midiese 37 cm desde el borde del montaje? O solamente cerrarlos la 1ª fila del delantero? Gracias por el patrón :)

03.04.2024 - 23:44

DROPS Design answered:

Hola Dela, en la talla S no tienes que cerrar dos puntos (en las instrucciones pone 0 así que te saltas ese paso). Tienes que cerrar 1 punto 1 vez, es decir, 1 punto al inicio de la fila por el lado derecho y 1 punto al inicio de la fila por el lado revés (1 en cada sisa). No tienes que cerrar más puntos que estos. Continuas trabajando en punto jersey sobre el resto de puntos hasta que la labor mida 37cm.

07.04.2024 - 23:35

country flag Karen Strandesen wrote:

I Jeres opskrift 223-23 under ærmer står der at der skal lukkes 2 masker af 7 gange i begyndelsen af hver pind på str. M. Derefter skulle der være 32 masker. Men der bliver lukket i alt 15 masker af og man begynder med 62 masker. Så vil man da slutte med 47 masker - eller er der noget her jeg har misforstået?

12.02.2024 - 23:45

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Karen, du har 62 masker lukker 2x7=14 og 1x1=1 i hver side 62-14-14-1-1 = 32 masker :)

22.02.2024 - 11:33

country flag Larissa wrote:

Bonjour. Pour ce modèle en particulier je voudrais savoir si je peux remplacer la DROPS SKY par n’importe quel fil du B. Je tiens à vous remercier de répondre à mes interrogations. Merci et bonne journée.

06.01.2024 - 04:53

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Larissa, tout à fait, utilisez le convertisseur pour connaître la quantité correspondante à votre taille pour chacune des qualités du groupe de fils B. Notez qu'il vous faudra également tricoter avec 1 fil Kid-Silk (ou un autre fil du groupe de fils A) et obtenir la même tension pour obtenir les mesures finales du schéma. Bon tricot!

08.01.2024 - 09:45

country flag Larissa wrote:

Bonjour. J’aimerais tricoter ce pull avec 1 fil, lequel me conseillez-vous ? J’ai essayé avec les fils proposés mais le résultat est catastrophique vu que je suis une grande débutante je n’arrive pas à travailler avec 2 fils. Merci

03.01.2024 - 18:12

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Larissa, pour tricoter avec 2 fils, il suffit juste de les tenir en même temps comme s'il n'y en avait qu'un seul, veillez juste à ce que votre tension soit juste, autrement dit vous devez avoir 14 mailles x 16 rangs jersey = 10 x 10 cm. Si vous voulez tricoter avec un seul fil, vous pouvez utiliser DROPS Melody, mais pensez à bien vérifier votre tension pour que les mesures finales soient justes. Bon tricot!

04.01.2024 - 08:04

country flag Larissa wrote:

Bonjour. J’aimerais faire ce pull mais en utilisant un fil de groupe C notamment Drops Air. Pour la taille S, quelle quantité me conseillez-vous? Merci

30.12.2023 - 13:39

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Larissa, Air n'est pas forcément une alternative à ce modèle en raison de la tension; essayez dans un premier temps si vous avez la bonne tension et si la texture vous convient, car l'ouvrage risque d'être un peu plus souple et aéré en ne tricotant qu'avec 1 fil Air. Si cela vous convient, calculez le métrage total nécessaire dans les 2 laines, et divisez la plus courte par le métrage d'une pelote Air pour avoir la quantité correspondante. Bon tricot!

02.01.2024 - 10:43

country flag Nina wrote:

Synes genseren er svært kort i str, med bare 26 cm fra oppleggskant opp til maskefelling ved ermet, kan dette stemme? Og vrangborden nederst blir jo så løs da det er flere masker der enn på selve bolen, helt motsatt enn andre mønster jeg har strikket etter. Endte med at jeg må rekke opp igjen nederst, strikke lenger vrangbord hvor jeg må ha færre masker.

28.03.2023 - 08:03

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Nina, ja det er en kort genser. Du finder målene i måleskitsen nederst i opskriften (du kan naturligvis altid forlænge den) :)

12.04.2023 - 15:00

country flag MDL wrote:

Hello! Thank you for this lovely pattern. Is that the correct amount listed of Sky to use? For example 150g (small/medium) is only 3 skeins /570m, whereas you call for 100g (4 skeins /848m) of Kid Silk. I feel it must be closer to 5 skeins of Sky for a sweater. Thank you for your time.

13.09.2022 - 23:06

DROPS Design answered:

Hi MDL, The amounts given are correct as you are using the 2 yarns simultaneously. Happy knitting!

14.09.2022 - 06:58

country flag Hyejeong wrote:

For sleeves, I’m confused that K1-1-2-3-3-3, Knit 2 and 2 stitches together over the next 30-30-30-32-32-32 stitches(= 15-15-15-16-16-16 stitches decreased)...

28.02.2022 - 17:12

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Hyejeong, work this row as follows from the right side: knit 1-1-2-3-3-3 (see size), then work K2 tog a total of 15-15-15-16-16-16 times (1-1-2-3-3-3 sts remain at the end of the row), knit these last 1-1-2-3-3-3 stitches. Does it sounds now ok to you? Happy knitting!

01.03.2022 - 09:26

country flag Marte wrote:

Hei, jeg ønsker å lage denne genseren med lange ermer (til håndleddet). Hvor mye ekstra garn trenger jeg da?

08.02.2022 - 15:03

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Marte, du skal nok bruge 2 ekstra nøgler DROPS Sky og 1 ekstra i DROPS Kid-Silk :)

09.02.2022 - 10:27

country flag Debora wrote:

Bonjour, je réalise ce modèle en M et je ne suis pas sûre de comprendre la consigne sur le devant pour rabattre emmanchures; faut-il diminuer de 6 m (2x (1x2+ 1x1) sur chaque rang ? Ou a partir des 51 m, continuer jusqu'à ce que l'ouvrage mesure 39 cm depuis le montage ?

11.12.2021 - 18:18

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Debora, en taille M, rabattez pour les emmanchures 2 mailles au début des 2 rangs suivants (= 1 fois 2 m de chaque côté), puis 1 maille au début des 2 rangs suivants (1 fois 1 m de chaque côté) = il vous reste: 57-(2-2)-(1-1)=51 mailles. Les 39 cm sont ensuite mesurés depuis le rang de montage = depuis le bas du pull, lorsque vous avez monté les mailles. Bon tricot!

13.12.2021 - 09:15