DROPS Fabel
DROPS Fabel
75% Wool, 25% Polyamide
from 3.00 $ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 33.00$.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

Watercolour Reflections

Knitted sweater in 2 strands DROPS Fabel. The piece is worked bottom up with a split in the neck and with moss-stitch edging. Sizes S - XXXL.

DROPS 223-24
DROPS Design: Pattern no fa-465
Yarn group A + A or C
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SIZES:
S - M - L - XL - XXL – XXXL

Finished measurements:
Chest measurements: 86-92-102-112-122-136 cm = 33 7/8"-36 1/4"-40"-44"-48"-53 1/2"
Full length: 58-60-62-64-66-68 cm = 22 3/4"-23 5/8"-24 3/8"-25 1/4"-26"-26 3/4"
All measurements in charts are in cm.

MATERIALS:
DROPS FABEL from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group A)
250-250-300-300-350-350 g color 114, light pearl grey
150-150-150-150-200-200 g color 904, lavender
150-150-150-150-200-200 g color 623, rose mist

KNITTING GAUGE:
16 stitches in width and 20 rows in height with stockinette stitch and 2 strands = 10 x 10 cm = 4” x 4”.

NEEDLES:
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 5.5 MM = US 9: Length 40 = 16” and 60 cm = 24” or 80 cm = 32”.
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 5.5 MM = US 9.
Needle size is only a guide. If you get too many stitches on 10 cm = 4”, change to a larger needle size. If you get too few stitches on 10 cm = 4”, change to a smaller needle size.

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Fabel
DROPS Fabel
75% Wool, 25% Polyamide
from 3.00 $ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 33.00$.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

SAVE 30% on 6 cotton favorites!
Valid until 04.12.2024

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
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EXPLANATIONS FOR THE PATTERN:

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MOSS STITCH (worked back and forth):
ROW 1: * Knit 1 purl 1 *, work from *-*.
ROW 2: Knit over purl and purl over knit.
Repeat row 2 onwards

MOSS STITCH (worked in the round):
ROUND 1: * Knit 1, purl 1 *, work from *-*.
ROUND 2: Knit over purl and purl over knit.
Repeat round 2 onwards.

STRIPES:
Work stripes as follows:
* Work with 1 strand light pearl grey and 1 strand lavender for 4 cm = 1 1/2", then with 1 strand light pearl grey and 1 strand rose mist for 4 cm = 1 1/2" *, repeat from *-*.

RIDGE/GARTER STITCH (worked back and forth):
Knit all rows.
1 ridge in height = Knit 2 rows.

DECREASE TIP (for sides of body):
Decrease by knitting 2 together inside the 1 edge stitch on each side.

INCREASE TIP (for sleeves):
Work until there are 2 stitches left before the marker thread, 1 yarn over, knit 4 (marker thread sits between these 4 stitches), 1 yarn over. On the next round knit the yarn overs twisted to avoid holes. Then work the new stitches in stockinette stitch.

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START THE PIECE HERE:

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SWEATER – SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE:
The sweater is worked back and forth in 2 sections, which are sewn together as described in the text. There is a split in the neck on the front piece. The sleeves are worked in the round with double pointed needles/circular needle, bottom up. The sweater has moss-stitch edging and the whole garment is worked in 2 strands Fabel. A cord is worked and threaded up and down the neck.

BACK PIECE:
Cast on 80-86-94-102-110-120 stitches with circular needle size 5.5 MM = US 9 with 1 strand light pearl grey and 1 strand lavender (= 2 strands). The sweater is worked in STRIPES – read description above. Purl 1 row from the wrong side, then work MOSS STITCH over all stitches – read description above, for 5 cm = 2". Continue with stockinette stitch and 1 edge stitch in GARTER STITCH on each side – read description above. REMEMBER THE KNITTING GAUGE! When the piece measures 8 cm = 3 1/8", decrease 1 stitch on each side – read DECREASE TIP. Decrease like this every 7-7-7-8-8-8 cm = 2 3/4"-2 3/4"-2 3/4"-3 1/8"-3 1/8"-3 1/8" a total of 5 times on both sides = 70-76-84-92-100-110 stitches. When the piece measures 40-41-42-43-44-45 cm = 15 3/4"-16 1/8"-16 1/2"-17"-17 1/4"-17 3/4", bind off 1 stitch on each side for the armholes = 68-74-82-90-98-108 stitches. Continue with stockinette stitch and 1 edge stitch in garter stitch on both sides until the piece measures 56-58-60-62-64-66 cm = 22"-22 3/4"-23 5/8"-24 3/8"-25 1/4"-26". Now bind off the middle 26-28-30-32-34-36 stitches for the neck and each shoulder is finished separately. Then bind off 1 stitch at the beginning of the next row from the neck = 20-22-25-28-31-35 stitches on the shoulder. Continue working until the piece measures 58-60-62-64-66-68 cm = 22 3/4"-23 5/8"-24 3/8"-25 1/4"-26"-26 3/4", bind off. Work the other shoulder in the same way.

FRONT PIECE:
Cast on 80-86-94-102-110-120 stitches with circular needle size 5.5 MM = US 9 with 1 strand light pearl grey and 1 strand lavender (= 2 strands). Purl 1 row from the wrong side, then work moss stitch over all stitches for 5 cm = 2". Continue with stockinette stitch and 1 edge stitch in garter stitch on each side. When the piece measures 8 cm = 3 1/8" decrease 1 stitch on each side. Decrease like this every 7-7-7-8-8-8 cm = 2 3/4"-2 3/4"-2 3/4"-3 1/8"-3 1/8"-3 1/8" a total of 5 times = 70-76-84-92-100-110 stitches. When the piece measures 38-39-40-41-42-43 cm = 15"-15 1/4"-15 3/4"-16 1/8"-16 1/2"-17", work the next row as follows from the right side: 1 edge stitch in garter stitch, work stockinette stitch over the next 28-31-35-39-43-48 stitches, moss stitch over the next 12 stitches, stockinette stitch over the next 28-31-35-39-43-48 stitches and finish with 1 edge stitch in garter stitch. Continue with garter stitch, stockinette stitch and moss stitch like this, AT THE SAME TIME, when the piece measures 40-41-42-43-44-45 cm = 15 3/4"-16 1/8"-16 1/2"-17"-17 1/4"-17 3/4", bind off 1 stitch on each side for the armholes = 68-74-82-90-98-108 stitches. When the piece measures 42-43-44-45-46-47 cm = 16 1/2"-17"-17 1/4"-17 3/4"-18"-18 1/2" divide the piece and each front piece/shoulder is finished separately. The next row is worked as follows from the right side. Work stockinette stitch over the first 28-31-35-39-43-48 stitches, moss stitch as before over the next 6 stitches and place the last 34-37-41-45-49-54 stitches on a thread.

LEFT FRONT PIECE/SHOULDER:
= 34-37-41-45-49-54 stitches. Continue with stockinette stitch and moss stitch until the piece measures 48-50-52-53-55-57 cm = 19"-19 3/4"-20 1/2"-21"-21 5/8"-22 1/2". Now place the 10-11-12-13-14-15 stitches by the neck on 1 thread; to avoid cutting the strand, work the stitches before placing them on the thread.
Bind off for the neck at the beginning of each row from the neck as follows: Bind off 2 stitches 1 time and 1 stitch 2 times = 20-22-25-28-31-35 stitches on the shoulder. Continue with stockinette stitch until the piece measures 58-60-62-64-66-68 cm = 22 3/4"-23 5/8"-24 3/8"-25 1/4"-26"-26 3/4". Loosely bind off with knit from the right side.

RIGHT FRONT PIECE/SHOULDER:
Place the stitches from the first thread back on circular needle size 5.5 MM = US 9 = 34-37-41-45-49-54 stitches. Continue with stockinette stitch and moss stitch until the piece measures 48-50-52-53-55-57 cm = 19"-19 3/4"-20 1/2"-21"-21 5/8"-22 1/2". Now place the 10-11-12-13-14-15 stitches by the neck on 1 thread; to avoid cutting the strand, work the stitches before placing them on the thread.
Bind off for the neck at the beginning of each row from the neck as follows: Bind off 2 stitches 1 time and 1 stitch 2 times = 20-22-25-28-31-35 stitches on the shoulder. Continue with stockinette stitch until the piece measures 58-60-62-64-66-68 cm = 22 3/4"-23 5/8"-24 3/8"-25 1/4"-26"-26 3/4". Loosely bind off with knit from the right side.

SLEEVES:
Cast on 41-43-45-47-49-51 stitches with double pointed needles size 5.5 MM = US 9 with 1 strand light pearl grey and 1 strand lavender (= 2 strands). Knit 1 round, then work MOSS STITCH - read explanation above. When piece measures 5 cm = 2", continue by working stockinette stitch and stripes as on the front and back pieces. Insert 1 marker thread at the beginning of the round = mid under sleeve. When the piece measures 8 cm = 3 1/8", increase 1 stitch on each side of the marker thread – read INCREASE TIP. Increase like this every 5-5-4½-3½-3½-3 cm = 2"-2"-4 1/8"-3 1/8"-3 1/8"-3 a total of 9-9-10-11-11-12 times = 59-61-65-69-71-75 stitches. When the sleeve measures 53-52-51-49-48-45 cm = 21"-20 1/2"-20"-19 1/4"-19"-17 3/4", bind off. Work the other sleeve in the same way.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew the shoulder seams. Sew in the sleeves. Sew the side seams inside the 1 edge stitch until there is 5 cm = 2" left at the bottom = split.

NECK:
Starting mid-front from the right side, knit up 91 to 101 stitches around the neck (including the stitches from the threads), with circular needle size 5.5 MM = US 9 and 1 strand light pearl grey and 1 strand lavender. Work moss stitch back and forth over all stitches. Continue until neck measures 2 cm = 3/4", bind off with knit.

CORD:
Using 2 double pointed needles size 5.5 MM = US 9 and 1 strand pearl grey and 1 strand lavender, cast on 4 stitches.
Knit the 4 stitches, * do not turn, but push the stitches to the other end of the needle, take the strand behind the stitches, tighten and knit the 4 stitches again from the right side *, work from *-* until the cord measures 120 to 130 cm = 47 1/4" to 51 1/4", bind off and fasten the strand. Thread the cord up and down, in the transition between the garment and the neck, starting mid-front.

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

diagram measurements

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (15)

country flag Denise wrote:

Pas de proposition ? Peut-être est-ce une question idiote, je vais demander autour de moi.

27.03.2024 - 17:09

country flag Denise wrote:

Bonjour, je viens de terminer le pull en taille XL et aig 6 (je tricote serré). Pas de soucis, il me va bien mais il me reste une pelote de chaque. Ma question : comment fixer le cordon au col? Merci

26.03.2024 - 14:27

country flag Marie-Hélène wrote:

Bonsoir Êtes vous sur que les couleurs indiquées (lavande, brume de rose et gris) soient bien les couleurs du modèle photo ? Car mon tricot est très loin de ressembler à la photo niveau coloris.

18.01.2023 - 22:36

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Marie-Hélène, tout à fait, mais notez que la luminosité le jour de la photo peut modifier l'apparence, que les couleurs varient d'un écran à l'autre, et qu'il peut y avoir des nuances entre les différents bains des différentes couleurs, d'autant que les différentes couleurs des imprimés ne vont pas être automatiquement au même endroit pour chacune; mais les couleurs sont bien les bonnes. Bon tricot!

19.01.2023 - 10:49

country flag Lajla Thomasen wrote:

Hvis jeg vil strikke den i baby merino med to tråde, hvor mange nøgler skal jeg så bruge i alt. Vil strikke den ensfarvet.

03.11.2022 - 17:09

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Lajla, læg antal gram i Fabel sammen i din størrelse. Brug garnomregneren. Vælg Fabel, skriv antal gram og vælg 1 tråd. Så får du garnforbruget i Baby Merino og du kan lægge det dobbelt som vi har gjort i Fabel :)

04.11.2022 - 09:04

country flag Marieregine wrote:

Bjr Je tricote beaucoup de modèles drops avec des laines drops Je trouve que le modèle watercolour réflexions a 3 erreurs Il est écrit ce pull se tricote de haut en bas alors qu'il se tricote de bas en haut Sur le diagramme il n'est pas indiqué que le corps est ceintré La plus grave et qu'il n'y a pas assez de fabel uni pour fabriquer nous-même nos pelotes à deux fills Pour la taille S il manque 1 pelote de 50g de fabel uni je vous remercie de votre réponse

08.08.2022 - 18:22

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Marieregine et merci pour votre fidélité; effectivement, le pull se tricote de bas en haut, la correction a été faite dans le titre; le schéma est standard, effectivement, on ne voit pas vraiment les diminutions dans le schéma lui-même mais les mesures indiquées en bas et avant les emmanchures reflètent ces diminutions sur les côtés. Quant à la quantité, nous n'avons pas encore eu de retour à ce propos, aviez-vous bien la bonne tension tout du long, à la fois en largeur mais aussi en hauteur? Merci!

09.08.2022 - 09:05

country flag Petra wrote:

Hallo, ich verstehe leider das Vorderteil nicht. Was wird denn an Maschen still gelegt? Was ist mit in Richtung vorderer Rand zum Halsausschnitt gemeint? Werden die Maschen am Halsausschnitt still gelegt? Der Pulli ist so schön, aber den Schritt bekomme ich nicht hin. Vielleicht können Sie hier helfen? Vielen Dank und viele Grüße Petra

20.05.2021 - 10:34

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Petra, wenn Sie jedes Vorderteil separat stricken, dann legen Sie die Maschen am Anfang der Reihe von dem Halsausschnitt still, dh beim linken Vorderteil am Anfang einer Rückreihe/beim rechten Vorderteil am Anfang einer Hinreihe stricken Sie diese Maschen und legen Sie sie still, und danach ketten Sie die Maschen ab. Kann es Ihnen weiterhelfen?

20.05.2021 - 12:35

country flag Ann Litchfield wrote:

Is there a child's pattern like this, granddaughter wants to match her Mummy. Thank you.

19.05.2021 - 19:44

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Ann, unfortunately we do not have the children sized version of this pattern. You can look through our children's jumper patterns here, and select something similar in shape, like THIS for example and use it as a base for your modifications. Happy Knitting!

20.05.2021 - 00:29

country flag Amanda Karlsson wrote:

Är det garnerna i beskrivningen som är använda i mönstret eller är det andra färger? I så fall vilka färger används? Älskar färgerna som är med på bilden.

07.04.2021 - 09:49

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Amanda. Det är färgerna som står i mönstret som är på bilden. Mvh DROPS Design

07.04.2021 - 10:46

country flag Monica wrote:

Var är mönstret?

13.03.2021 - 08:06

DROPS Design answered:

Hei Monica. Oppskriften ligger der nå. mvh DROPS design

15.03.2021 - 14:42

country flag Angelica wrote:

Jättefin modell, men var är mönstret? 😃

12.03.2021 - 14:53

DROPS Design answered:

Hei Angelica. Ja, det skal vi få gjort asap. Takk for at du gjorde oss oppmerksom på at det manglet. mvh DROPS design

15.03.2021 - 13:44