DROPS Children 49 · Lots of new kid designs!
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DROPS BabyAlpaca Silk
 70% Alpaca, 30% Silk
Discontinued
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DROPS Needles & Hooks
DROPS AW2425
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Jette

Knitted DROPS shawl in garter st in ”BabyAlpaca Silk”.

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DROPS 149-2

#jetteshawl

DROPS design: Pattern no bs-054
Yarn group A
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Measurements:
Width at top: approx. 200 cm / 79"
Length on the middle: approx. 55 cm / 21½"

Materials:
DROPS BABYALPACA SILK from Garnstudio
250 g color no 4314, gray purple
150 g color no 1760, light gray purple

DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE (80 cm / 32") size 3.5 mm/ US 4 – or size needed to get 23 sts x 45 rows in garter st = 10 x 10 cm / 4" x 4".

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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Product image DROPS BabyAlpaca Silk
DROPS BabyAlpaca Silk
 70% Alpaca, 30% Silk
Discontinued
find alternatives
DROPS Needles & Hooks
DROPS Needles & Hooks

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. Convert from inches to cm here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, convert "crochet terms" here. See this pattern in British English here.
GARTER ST (back and forth on circular needle):
K all rows. 1 ridge = K2 rows.

KNITTING TIP:
It is important when changing color in the stripes with 3 ridges light gray purple and 1 ridge gray purple, to lightly pull both the piece and strand of yarn to avoid a tight edge.
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SHAWL:
Work piece in 2 parts, i.e. first part is worked as a diagonal edge on shawl. Then pick up along one long side on this part and finish the shawl. READ KNITTING TIP!

1ST PART (= A on chart):
Cast on 3 sts on circular needle size 3.5 mm / US 4 with light gray purple.
Row 1 (= WS): K all sts.
Row 2 (= RS): K 1, 1 YO, K 1, 1 YO, K 1 = 5 sts.
Row 3 (= WS): K 1, K 1 twisted, K 3 (last YO = hole) = 5 sts.
Row 4 (= RS): K all sts.
Row 5 (= WS): K all sts.
Row 6 (= RS): K 1, 1 YO, K 3, 1 YO, K 1 = 7 sts.
Row 7 (= WS): K 1, K 1 twisted, K 5 (last YO = hole) = 7 sts.
Row 8 (= RS): Switch to gray purple and K all sts.
Row 9 (= WS): K all sts.
Row 10 (= RS): Switch back to light gray purple and K 1, 1 YO, K 5, 1 YO, K 1 = 9 sts.
Row 11 (= WS): K 1, K 1 twisted, K 7 (last YO = hole) = 9 sts.
Repeat rows 4-11 until there are 45 sts on needle (i.e. inc in each side every 4th row AT THE SAME TIME work stripes with 3 ridges light gray purple and 1 ridge gray purple). When there are 45 sts on needle, piece measures approx. 20 cm / 8" in width (measured along sts). Work 1 ridge more with light gray purple so that there are 2 ridges with light gray purple after 1 ridge with gray purple.

Then work as follows:
Row 1 (= RS and continue with light gray purple): K 1, 1 YO, K until 3 sts remain on row, K 2 tog and K 1 = 45 sts.
Row 2 (= WS): K all sts (YO = hole) = 45 sts.
Row 3 (= RS): Switch to gray purple and K all sts.
Row 4 (= WS): K all sts.
Row 5 (= RS): Switch back to light gray purple and K 1, 1 YO, K until 3 sts remain on needle, K 2 tog and K 1 = 45 sts.
Row 6 (= WS): K all sts (YO = hole) = 45 sts.
Row 7 (= RS): K all sts.
Row 8 (= WS): K all sts.
Repeat rows 1-8, i.e. inc in one side and dec in the other side every 4th row (i.e. every other row from RS) and continue stripes as before with 3 ridges light gray purple and 1 ridge gray purple.
When piece measures approx. 85 cm / 33½" along right long side (seen from RS) – finish after 2 ridges with light gray purple, insert 1 marker at beg of row from RS. There should now be approx. 95 holes along right long side (seen from RS).

Continue to dec as follows:
Row 1 (= RS and continue with light gray purple): K until 3 sts remain on row, K 2 tog and K 1 = 44 sts.
Row 2 (= WS): K all sts.
Row 3 (= RS): Switch to gray purple and K all sts.
Row 4 (= WS): K all sts.
Row 5 (= RS): Switch back to light gray purple and K until 3 sts remain, K 2 tog, K 1 = 43 sts.
Row 6 (= WS): K all sts.
Row 7 (= RS): K all sts.
Row 8 (= WS): K all sts.
Repeat rows 1-8, i.e. dec 1 st at end of every 4th row (i.e. at the end of every other row from RS) and continue stripes as before with 3 ridges light gray purple and 1 ridge gray purple. When 3 sts remain on row, work as follows: K 1, K 2 tog, turn piece, K 2, turn piece, K 2 tog, cut the yarn and pull it through st.

2ND PART (= B on chart):
Pick up from RS with gray purple as follows: Pick up 1 st in the tip on part A (marked with a star on chart), pick up 1 st through first hole, i.e. insert needle through hole, get the yarn and pull yarn back through hole, * 1 YO on needle, pick up 1 st through next hole (= 2 new sts on needle) *, repeat from *-* along the entire side with hole until marker, so that there are 190 sts on needle (if you need to pick up more sts to get correct no of sts, pick up 1 st between holes evenly).

Then work as follows:
Row 1 (= WS): K all sts.
Row 2 (= RS): K until 3 sts remain on row, K 2 tog and K 1 (= 1 st dec).
Row 3 (= WS): K all sts.
Row 4 (= RS): K 1, 1 YO, K until 4 sts on row, K 3 tog, K 1 (= 1 st inc and 2 sts dec).
Row 5 (= WS): K until 2 sts remain on row, K YO twisted and finish K 1.
Row 6 (= RS): K until 3 sts remain on row, K 2 tog and K 1 (= 1 st dec).
Row 7 (= WS): K all sts.
Row 8 (= RS): Switch to light gray purple and K 1, 1 YO, K until 4 sts remain on needle, K 3 tog and K 1 (= 1 st inc and 2 sts dec).
Row 9 (= WS): K until 2 sts remain on row, K YO twisted and finish K 1.
Row 10 (= RS): Switch back to gray purple and K until 3 sts remain on row, K 2 tog and K 1 (= 1 st dec).
Row 11 (= WS): K all sts.
Row 12 (= RS): K 1, 1 YO, K until 4 sts on row, K 3 tog and K 1 (= 1 st inc and 2 sts dec).
Row 13 (= WS): K until 2 sts remain on row, K YO twisted and finish K 1.
Repeat rows 6-13 until piece measures approx. 15 cm / 6" from where sts were picked up - finish after 3 ridges with gray purple.

Then work as follows:
Row 1 (= RS): Switch to light gray purple and K until 3 sts remain on row, K 2 tog and K 1 (= 1 st dec).
Row 2 (= WS): K all sts.
Row 3 (= RS): Switch to gray purple and K 1, 1 YO, K until 4 sts remain on needle, K 3 tog and K 1 (= 1 st inc and 2 sts dec).
Row 4 (= WS): K until 2 sts remain on row, K YO twisted and finish K 1.
Repeat rows 1-4 until piece measures approx. 31 cm / 12¼" from where sts were picked up - finish after 1 ridge with light gray purple.

Then work as before but only with gray purple, i.e. dec alternately 1 and 2 sts at the end of every row from RS and inc 1 st at beg of every other row from RS. When all sts have been dec, cut the yarn and weave in all tails.

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

Diagram measurements for DROPS 149-2
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What can you do with our patterns? You can share DROPS patterns online, using the pattern original picture, materials, name and number. But you are NOT ALLOWED to reproduce the complete pattern digitally in any way. Yarn stores are welcome to use the DROPS pattern database to promote the sale of our assortment. You can print out our patterns, make as many copies as you’d like. The only thing we ask is that you don't make any changes / additions to the original printed document. And that the patterns according to the DROPS philosophy are given out to the consumers for free. Editorials that wish to publish our patterns in printed books or magazines can contact us for more information. The sale of garments based on DROPS patterns is permitted as long as they are sold as single items or per order. Further commercial use of the patterns is not permitted. It has to be clearly stated that the garment is made based on a design from DROPS DESIGN. The use of clothing labels of which DROPS DESIGN forms part is conditioned by the inclusion of the following text: “A DROPS DESIGN made by …..”. The use of DROPS photos for marketing purposes/sales is only permitted in connection with the use/sale of DROPS products. The photos may not be cut or edited and the logo should be clearly visible.
We reserve the right to withdraw the permission for use of our patterns at any time, notwithstanding the reason.
Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.  

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!
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Comments / Questions (21)

country flag Silkelana wrote:

What are the replacing color numbers for Babyalpaca Silk 4314 and 1760? I love this colors but they didn't exist anymore. Thanks for your answer. Kind regards.

03.03.2022 - 11:05

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Silkelana, please contact your DROPS store for any assistance choosing the best matching colours, they will help you even per mail or telephone. Happy knitting!

03.03.2022 - 14:12

country flag Monika Schafus wrote:

Modell DROPS 149-2 - Teil B - habe 190 Maschen aufgenommen und Reihe 1 bis 13 gestrickt. Reihe 8 und 9 hellgraulila gestrickt. Es ergibt sich eine Rippe auf der rechten Seite. Wenn ich die Reihen 6-13 wiederhole, erscheint die hellgraulila Rippe nicht, d.h. Es sieht wie links aus. Was mache ich falsch❓ Danke für schnelle Hilfe Monika Schafus

01.10.2020 - 14:29

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Frau Schafus, die Reihen 6 +7 und 10 bis 13 sind mit graulila gestrickt und die Reihen 8 und 9 sind mit hellgraulila gestrickt so haben Sie mit Reihen 6 bis 13: 1 Krausrippe mit graulila, 1 krausrippe mit hell graulila und 2 Krausrippen mit graulila (= 1 kraus rippe mit hellgraulila nach 4 krausrippen graulila). Viel Spaß beim stricken!

01.10.2020 - 16:13

country flag Christiane Grenier wrote:

Pour le modèle 149-2 pour débuter la deuxième partie je fais une maille dans chaque trou et entre les trous je fais une jeté pour atteindre 190 mailles c’est ce que je comprends juste me confirmer merci

15.04.2018 - 21:54

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Grenier, tout à fait, vous relever 1 m dans chacun des jours le long du côté et vous faites 1 jeté entre les mailles relevées. Si vous n'arrivez pas à 190 m ainsi, relevez des mailles entre les jours à intervalles réguliers. Bon tricot!

16.04.2018 - 09:51

country flag Amandine wrote:

Bonjour je voudrais le faire beaucoup plus grand . comment faire sil vous plait ? merci

02.01.2015 - 17:03

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Amandine, vous pouvez ajuster la longueur souhaitée dès la réalisation de la partie A - pensez à ajuster également la quantité de fil - votre magasin DROPS pourra volontiers vous aider et vous conseiller. Bon tricot!

02.01.2015 - 17:08

country flag Bärbl Rupp wrote:

Der Schluß (einfärbiger Teil) funktioniert nicht, da in der deutschen Anleitung in der letzten Reihe steht, dass man in jeder zweiten Hin-Reihe 1 Masche ABNEHMEN soll. Es sollte jedoch wie in der englischen Fassung 1 Masche AUFNEHMEN heißen (siehe auch jenen Teil, wo abwechselnd nach jeder Krausrippe der Farbwechsel gemacht wird.). Das Tuch macht sonst einen ziemlichen Hacken.

08.11.2014 - 13:12

DROPS Design answered:

Sie haben Recht, vielen Dank für den Hinweis, das wird gleich korrigiert!

09.11.2014 - 22:26

country flag Sabine Habke wrote:

Vielen lieben Dank für Eure Hilfe. Jetzt klappt alles wunderbar.

02.07.2014 - 15:56

country flag Sabine Habke wrote:

Bitte um genaue angabe für die zweiten 11 reihen. meine löcher sind nicht da wo sie sein sollen

21.06.2014 - 12:01

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Sabine, Sie wdh. die 4.-11. (das was leider etwas falsch angegeben, es stand dort, dass Sie die 11 R wdh, das wurde nun korrigiert). Sie stricken den LETZTEN Umschlag jeder 2. Rück-R immer re, sodass sich ein Loch ergibt. Also: 12.R (= 4.R = Hin-R): re stricken, 13.R (= 5.R = Rück-R): re stricken, 14.R (= 6.R = Hin-R): 1 re, 1 Umschlag, re bis zur letzten M, 1 Umschlag, 1 M re, 15.R (= 7.R = Rück-R): 1 re, 1 re veschr., die R re zu Ende stricken (der LETZTE Umschlag = Loch) usw.

23.06.2014 - 17:50

country flag Sabine Habke wrote:

Leider komme ich nicht mit der Anleitung klar. Die ersten 11 R. und dann wiederholen. Die Löcher sind dann nicht da wo sie sein sollen. Ich bitte um Hilfe

12.06.2014 - 08:23

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Sabine, die Zunahmen (= Umschläge) erfolgen in jeder 4. R immer nur nach der ersten und vor der letzten M(also 2 Umschläge pro Zunahme-R), dazwischen stricken Sie einfach rechts. In der darauffolgenden Rück-R stricken Sie den 1. Umschlag verschränkt, damit sich kein Loch ergibt, und den 2. Umschlag normal, damit sich ein Loch ergibt. Die Streifenfolge stricken Sie wie in R 4-11 beschrieben.

13.06.2014 - 15:14

country flag Ruth wrote:

Der einfarbige Schluss funktioniert nicht wie beschrieben. Auch nach drei Interpretationsvarianten wurde das Tuch nicht symetrisch. Trotzdem schön.

19.05.2014 - 07:23

country flag Johanna wrote:

Jag har precis stickat färdigt min och den blev fin. Jag behövde dock bara 4 nystan av den färg som motsvarar grålila och har mycket kvar på de sista använda nystanen av båda färgerna, så det blir till att göra tillbehör med allt överblivet garn. Det gör i och för sig absolut ingenting =)

05.02.2014 - 15:04

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Jette

#jetteshawl

Jette / DROPS 149-2 - Knitted DROPS shawl in garter st in ”BabyAlpaca Silk”.

Knitted DROPS shawl in garter st in ”BabyAlpaca Silk”.

DROPS 149-2
DROPS design: Pattern no bs-054
Yarn group A
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Measurements:
Width at top: approx. 200 cm / 79"
Length on the middle: approx. 55 cm / 21½"

Materials:
DROPS BABYALPACA SILK from Garnstudio
250 g color no 4314, gray purple
150 g color no 1760, light gray purple

DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE (80 cm / 32") size 3.5 mm/ US 4 – or size needed to get 23 sts x 45 rows in garter st = 10 x 10 cm / 4" x 4".

GARTER ST (back and forth on circular needle):
K all rows. 1 ridge = K2 rows.

KNITTING TIP:
It is important when changing color in the stripes with 3 ridges light gray purple and 1 ridge gray purple, to lightly pull both the piece and strand of yarn to avoid a tight edge.
----------------------------------------------------------

SHAWL:
Work piece in 2 parts, i.e. first part is worked as a diagonal edge on shawl. Then pick up along one long side on this part and finish the shawl. READ KNITTING TIP!

1ST PART (= A on chart):
Cast on 3 sts on circular needle size 3.5 mm / US 4 with light gray purple.
Row 1 (= WS): K all sts.
Row 2 (= RS): K 1, 1 YO, K 1, 1 YO, K 1 = 5 sts.
Row 3 (= WS): K 1, K 1 twisted, K 3 (last YO = hole) = 5 sts.
Row 4 (= RS): K all sts.
Row 5 (= WS): K all sts.
Row 6 (= RS): K 1, 1 YO, K 3, 1 YO, K 1 = 7 sts.
Row 7 (= WS): K 1, K 1 twisted, K 5 (last YO = hole) = 7 sts.
Row 8 (= RS): Switch to gray purple and K all sts.
Row 9 (= WS): K all sts.
Row 10 (= RS): Switch back to light gray purple and K 1, 1 YO, K 5, 1 YO, K 1 = 9 sts.
Row 11 (= WS): K 1, K 1 twisted, K 7 (last YO = hole) = 9 sts.
Repeat rows 4-11 until there are 45 sts on needle (i.e. inc in each side every 4th row AT THE SAME TIME work stripes with 3 ridges light gray purple and 1 ridge gray purple). When there are 45 sts on needle, piece measures approx. 20 cm / 8" in width (measured along sts). Work 1 ridge more with light gray purple so that there are 2 ridges with light gray purple after 1 ridge with gray purple.

Then work as follows:
Row 1 (= RS and continue with light gray purple): K 1, 1 YO, K until 3 sts remain on row, K 2 tog and K 1 = 45 sts.
Row 2 (= WS): K all sts (YO = hole) = 45 sts.
Row 3 (= RS): Switch to gray purple and K all sts.
Row 4 (= WS): K all sts.
Row 5 (= RS): Switch back to light gray purple and K 1, 1 YO, K until 3 sts remain on needle, K 2 tog and K 1 = 45 sts.
Row 6 (= WS): K all sts (YO = hole) = 45 sts.
Row 7 (= RS): K all sts.
Row 8 (= WS): K all sts.
Repeat rows 1-8, i.e. inc in one side and dec in the other side every 4th row (i.e. every other row from RS) and continue stripes as before with 3 ridges light gray purple and 1 ridge gray purple.
When piece measures approx. 85 cm / 33½" along right long side (seen from RS) – finish after 2 ridges with light gray purple, insert 1 marker at beg of row from RS. There should now be approx. 95 holes along right long side (seen from RS).

Continue to dec as follows:
Row 1 (= RS and continue with light gray purple): K until 3 sts remain on row, K 2 tog and K 1 = 44 sts.
Row 2 (= WS): K all sts.
Row 3 (= RS): Switch to gray purple and K all sts.
Row 4 (= WS): K all sts.
Row 5 (= RS): Switch back to light gray purple and K until 3 sts remain, K 2 tog, K 1 = 43 sts.
Row 6 (= WS): K all sts.
Row 7 (= RS): K all sts.
Row 8 (= WS): K all sts.
Repeat rows 1-8, i.e. dec 1 st at end of every 4th row (i.e. at the end of every other row from RS) and continue stripes as before with 3 ridges light gray purple and 1 ridge gray purple. When 3 sts remain on row, work as follows: K 1, K 2 tog, turn piece, K 2, turn piece, K 2 tog, cut the yarn and pull it through st.

2ND PART (= B on chart):
Pick up from RS with gray purple as follows: Pick up 1 st in the tip on part A (marked with a star on chart), pick up 1 st through first hole, i.e. insert needle through hole, get the yarn and pull yarn back through hole, * 1 YO on needle, pick up 1 st through next hole (= 2 new sts on needle) *, repeat from *-* along the entire side with hole until marker, so that there are 190 sts on needle (if you need to pick up more sts to get correct no of sts, pick up 1 st between holes evenly).

Then work as follows:
Row 1 (= WS): K all sts.
Row 2 (= RS): K until 3 sts remain on row, K 2 tog and K 1 (= 1 st dec).
Row 3 (= WS): K all sts.
Row 4 (= RS): K 1, 1 YO, K until 4 sts on row, K 3 tog, K 1 (= 1 st inc and 2 sts dec).
Row 5 (= WS): K until 2 sts remain on row, K YO twisted and finish K 1.
Row 6 (= RS): K until 3 sts remain on row, K 2 tog and K 1 (= 1 st dec).
Row 7 (= WS): K all sts.
Row 8 (= RS): Switch to light gray purple and K 1, 1 YO, K until 4 sts remain on needle, K 3 tog and K 1 (= 1 st inc and 2 sts dec).
Row 9 (= WS): K until 2 sts remain on row, K YO twisted and finish K 1.
Row 10 (= RS): Switch back to gray purple and K until 3 sts remain on row, K 2 tog and K 1 (= 1 st dec).
Row 11 (= WS): K all sts.
Row 12 (= RS): K 1, 1 YO, K until 4 sts on row, K 3 tog and K 1 (= 1 st inc and 2 sts dec).
Row 13 (= WS): K until 2 sts remain on row, K YO twisted and finish K 1.
Repeat rows 6-13 until piece measures approx. 15 cm / 6" from where sts were picked up - finish after 3 ridges with gray purple.

Then work as follows:
Row 1 (= RS): Switch to light gray purple and K until 3 sts remain on row, K 2 tog and K 1 (= 1 st dec).
Row 2 (= WS): K all sts.
Row 3 (= RS): Switch to gray purple and K 1, 1 YO, K until 4 sts remain on needle, K 3 tog and K 1 (= 1 st inc and 2 sts dec).
Row 4 (= WS): K until 2 sts remain on row, K YO twisted and finish K 1.
Repeat rows 1-4 until piece measures approx. 31 cm / 12¼" from where sts were picked up - finish after 1 ridge with light gray purple.

Then work as before but only with gray purple, i.e. dec alternately 1 and 2 sts at the end of every row from RS and inc 1 st at beg of every other row from RS. When all sts have been dec, cut the yarn and weave in all tails.
Diagram for DROPS 149-2

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