DROPS / 214 / 11

Blushing Birches by DROPS Design

Knitted hat and neck warmer with saddle shoulder in DROPS Karisma. The set is worked with lace pattern, cables and rib.

DROPS Design: Pattern no u-909
Yarngroup B
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WHOLE SET:

SIZES:
S/M – L/XL

MATERIALS:
DROPS KARISMA from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group B)
200-250 g color 81, old rose

HAT:

SIZES:
S/M – L/XL
Fits head size: approx. 54/56 – 58/60 cm = 21 1/4"/22"– 22 3/4"/23 5/8"

MATERIALS:
DROPS KARISMA from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group B)
100-100 g color 81, old rose

KNITTING GAUGE:
22 stitches in width and 30 rows in height with stockinette stitch = 10 x 10 cm = 4” x 4”.

NEEDLES:
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 3.5 MM = US 4.
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 3.5 MM = US 4: Length 40 cm = 16” for stockinette stitch and lace pattern.
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 3 MM = US 2,5: Length 40 cm = 16” for rib.
DROPS CABLE NEEDLE: For cables.
Needle size is only a guide. If you get too many stitches on 10 cm = 4”, change to a larger needle size. If you get too few stitches on 10 cm = 4”, change to a smaller needle size.

NECK WARMER:

SIZES:
S/M – L/XL
Measurements: Circumference at top: approx. 60-67 cm = 23 5/8"-26 3/8". Height (including rib): approx. 25-27 cm = 9 3/4"-10 5/8" in front and 27-29 cm = 10 5/8"-11 3/8" at back.

MATERIALS:
DROPS KARISMA from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group B)
150-150 g color 81, old rose


KNITTING GAUGE:
22 stitches in width and 30 rows in height with stockinette stitch = 10 x 10 cm = 4” x 4”.

NEEDLES:
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 3.5 MM = US 4: Length 40 cm = 16” or 60 cm = 24” for stockinette stitch.
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 3 MM = US 2,5: Length 40 cm = 16” for rib.
Needle size is only a guide. If you get too many stitches on 10 cm = 4”, change to a larger needle size. If you get too few stitches on 10 cm = 4”, change to a smaller needle size.

Have you knitted/crocheted this or any other of our designs? Tag your pictures in social media with #dropsdesign so we can see them!

Want to use a different yarn? Try our yarn converter!
Not sure which size you should choose? Then it might help you to know that the model in the picture is approx. 5 ft 7 in and uses size S or M. If you are making a sweater, cardigan, dress or similar garment, you will find a graphic with the measurements of the finished garment (in cm) at the bottom of the pattern.

100% Wool
from 3.20 $ /50g
DROPS Karisma uni colour DROPS Karisma uni colour 3.20 $ /50g
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DROPS Karisma mix DROPS Karisma mix 3.20 $ /50g
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You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 12.80$. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
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EXPLANATIONS FOR THE PATTERN:

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RIDGE/GARTER STITCH (worked back and forth):
Knit all rows.
1 ridge in height = Knit 2 rows.

PATTERN (for hat):
See diagrams A.1 and A.2.

DECREASE TIP-1 (for top of hat):
Decrease 1 stitch before each marker thread as follows: Work until there are 2 stitches left before the marker thread and knit 2 together.

DECREASE TIP-2 (evenly spaced):
To work out how to decrease evenly, count the total number of stitches on needle (e.g. 44 stitches) and divide by number of decreases to be made (e.g. 12) = 3.7.
In this example decrease by knitting together alternately each 2nd and 3rd stitch and each 3rd and 4th stitch.

INCREASE TIP (for increases for saddle shoulders on neck warmer):
BEFORE MARKER:
The new stitch will be twisted, leaning towards the right.
Use left needle to pick up strand between 2 stitches from the round below, pick up strand from behind and knit stitch in front loop.
AFTER MARKER:
The new stitch will be twisted, leaning towards the left.
Use left needle to pick up strand between 2 stitches from the round below, pick up strand from the front and knit stitch in back loop.

BINDING-OFF TIP:
To avoid the bind-off edge being tight you can bind off with a larger size needle. If the edge is still tight, make 1 yarn over after approx. each 4th stitch at the same time as binding off; the yarn overs are bind off as normal stitches.

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START THE PIECE HERE:

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HAT – SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE:
The piece is worked in the round with short circular needle, bottom up. Change to double pointed needles when necessary.

HAT:
Cast on 108-120 stitches with circular needle size 3.5 mm = US 4 and Karisma. Change to circular needle size 3 mm = US 2,5. Knit 1 round then work A.1 in the round (= 9-10 repeats of 12 stitches). When the piece measures 5-5 cm = 2"-2" from the cast-on edge, change back to circular needle size 3.5 mm = US 4.
Continue with A.2 (= 9-10 repeats of 12 stitches). Continue this pattern. REMEMBER THE KNITTING GAUGE!
When A.2 has been completed, work stockinette stitch to finished length.
AT THE SAME TIME when the piece measures 20-21 cm = 8"-8 1/4", insert 9-10 marker threads in the piece as follows: Count 6 stitches, * insert 1 marker thread before the next stitch, count 12 stitches *, repeat from *-* a total of 8-9 times, insert 1 marker thread before the next stitch. There are 6 stitches left on the round after the last marker thread.
On the next round decrease 1 stitch before each marker thread – read DECREASE TIP-1 (= 9-10 stitches decreased). Decrease like this every 2nd round a total of 5-8 times and then every round a total of 5-2 times = 18-20 stitches left.
On the next round knit all stitches together 2 and 2 = 9-10 stitches.
Cut the strand, pull it through the remaining stitches, tighten and fasten well.
The hat measures approx. 25-27 cm = 9 3/4"-10 5/8" from the top down.

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NECK WARMER - SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE:
The piece is worked in the round with circular needle, top down. When the increases for the saddle shoulders are finished, stitches are bind off on each shoulder. The front and back pieces are then finished separately, back and forth on the needle.

NECK WARMER:
Cast on 138-156 stitches with short circular needle size 3.5 mm = US 4 and Karisma. Change to short circular needle size 3 mm = US 2,5. Knit 1 round then work rib in the round (= knit 1, purl 2) – beginning of the round is the back right shoulder, when the neck warmer is worn.
When the piece measures 7-8 cm = 2 3/4"-3 1/8" from the cast-on edge, change to circular needle size 3.5 mm = US 4.
Insert 4 markers in the piece as described below. Each marker is inserted in a knitted stitch and without working the stitches:
Insert the first marker in the first knitted stitch on the round, skip 23-29 stitches (= shoulder), insert 2nd marker in the next knitted stitch, skip 44-47 stitches (= front piece), insert 3rd marker in the next knitted stitch, skip 23-29 stitches (= shoulder) and insert 4th marker in the next knitted stitch. There are 44-47 stitches left after the 4th marker.
The next round is worked as follows: Knit the stitch with the marker, work rib over the next 23-29 stitches, knit the stitch with the marker, work stockinette stitch over the next 44-47 stitches and decrease 12-13 stitches evenly over these stitches– read DECREASE TIP-2, knit the stitch with the marker, work rib over the next 23-29 stitches, knit the stitch with the marker, work stockinette stitch over the last 44-47 stitches and decrease 12-13 stitches evenly over these stitches = 114-130 stitches. Now increase for the shoulders as described below.

SADDLE SHOULDER INCREASE:
Work rib as before over the 23-29 stitches on each shoulder, and stockinette stitch over the other stitches on the front and back pieces (including the stitches with markers). REMEMBER THE KNITTING GAUGE!
AT THE SAME TIME increase 4 stitches on every round for saddle shoulders as follows: Increase BEFORE markers 1 and 3 and AFTER markers 2 and 4 – read INCREASE TIP (= 4 stitches increased – the increased stitches become part of the front and back pieces and are worked in stockinette stitch; the number of stitches on each shoulder + the 4 stitches with markers remains the same).
Increase like this EVERY round a total of 12-14 times = 162-186 stitches.
On the next round bind off stitches in the middle of each shoulder section as follows: Knit the stitch with the marker, work rib over the next 6-6 stitches, work 1 stitch in GARTER STITCH – read description above, bind off the next 9-15 stitches (= middle of shoulder – bind off with knit and make sure the bind-off stitches are not tight), work 1 stitch in garter stitch, work rib over the next 6-6 stitches, stockinette stitch over the next 58-64 stitches (= front piece including stitches with 2nd and 3rd markers), work rib over the next 6-6 stitches, 1 stitch in garter stitch, bind off the next 9-15 stitches (= middle of shoulder), 1 stitch in garter stitch, rib over the next 6-6 stitches and stockinette stitch over the last 57-63 stitches (= back piece including stitch with 4th marker). Cut the strand. Place the 72-78 stitches for the back piece on 1 thread or extra needle and work the front piece.

FRONT PIECE:
= 72-78 stitches. Work back and forth with circular needle size 3.5 mm = US 4 as follows: 1 edge stitch in garter stitch, rib over the next 6-6 stitches (= knit 1, purl 2, knit 1, purl 2), work stockinette stitch until there are 7 stitches left on the row, rib over the next 6 stitches (= purl 2, knit 1, purl 2, knit 1) and finish with 1 edge stitch in garter stitch. Continue this pattern until the piece measures 22-24 cm = 8 3/4"-9 1/2" from the cast-on edge mid-front.
There is approx. 3 cm = 1 1/8" left to finished length; try the neck warmer on and work to desired length.
Change to circular needle size 3 mm = US 2,5 and work the next row as follows from the right side: 1 edge stitch in garter stitch, * knit 1, purl 2 *, work from *-* until there are 2 stitches left on the row, knit 1 and finish with 1 edge stitch in garter stitch. Work a total of 8 rows of this rib. Bind off with knit over knit and purl over purl – read BINDING-OFF TIP.
Cut and fasten the strand. The front piece measures approx. 25-27 cm = 9 3/4"-10 5/8" from the cast-on edge mid-front.

BACK PIECE:
Place the 72-78 stitches from the thread/extra needle back onto circular needle size 3.5 mm = US 4 and work in the same way as the front piece, until the piece measures 24-26 cm 9 1/2"-10 1/4" from the cast-on edge mid-back (i.e. 2 cm = 3/4" longer than the front piece). Change to circular needle size 3 mm = US 2,5 and work rib in the same way as the front piece. The back piece measures approx. 27-29 cm = 10 5/8"-11 3/8" from the cast-on edge mid-back.

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

= knit
= purl
= between 2 stitches make 1 yarn over, on the next round knit the yarn over (leaves a hole)
= between 2 stitches make 1 yarn over, on the next round purl the yarn over twisted (avoids a hole)
= knit 2 together
= slip 1 stitch as if to knit, knit 1, pass the slipped stitch over the knitted stitch
= slip 1 stitch as if to knit, knit 2 together, pass the slipped stitch over the knitted together stitches
= purl 2 together
= purl 2 twisted together
= place 2 stitches on cable needle in front of piece, knit 2, knit 2 from cable needle
= place 2 stitches on cable needle behind the piece, knit 2, knit 2 from cable needle

Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 214-11) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (1)

Lise Kilganon 08.10.2020 - 15:52:

Je suis incapable d imprimer la photo du modèle choisie , très important pour suivre les instructions, pouvez vous m aider, merci,,,,

DROPS Design 08.10.2020 kl. 16:20:

Bonjour Mme Kilganon, vérifiez bien les paramètres de votre imprimante, nous avons pu lancer l'impression des photos sans soucis. Bon tricot!

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