Celtic Poetry by DROPS Design

Knitted head band and neck warmer in DROPS Merino Extra Fine. The piece is worked in English rib.

DROPS Design: Pattern no me-213
Yarn group B
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WHOLE SET:

SIZE:
S/M - M/L

MATERIALS:
DROPS MERINO EXTRA FINE from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group B)
250-250 g color 42, cedar

HEAD BAND:

SIZE:
One-size.
Measurements.: Width = 12 cm = 4 3/4”. Length = 49 cm = 19 1/4” or desired length.

MATERIALS:
DROPS MERINO EXTRA FINE from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group B)
50 g color 42, cedar

KNITTING GAUGE:
18 stitches in width and 44 rows in height with English rib = 10 x 10 cm = 4” x 4”.

NEEDLES:
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 3.5 MM = US 4: Length 40 cm = 16” or 60 cm = 24”.
Needle size is only a guide. If you get too many stitches on 10 cm = 4”, change to a larger needle size. If you get too few stitches on 10 cm = 4”, change to a smaller needle size.

NECK WARMER:

SIZE:
S/M - M/L
Measurements: Length = approx. 30-32 cm = 11 3/4"-12 1/2” from the shoulder down. Width = approx. 29-34 cm = 11 3/8”-13 3/8”.

MATERIALS:
DROPS MERINO EXTRA FINE from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group B)
200-200 g color 42, cedar

KNITTING GAUGE:
17 stitches in width and 42 rows in height with English rib = 10 x 10 cm = 4” x 4”.

NEEDLES:
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 4 MM = US 6: Length 40 cm = 16” and 60 cm = 24”.
Needle size is only a guide. If you get too many stitches on 10 cm = 4”, change to a larger needle size. If you get too few stitches on 10 cm = 4”, change to a smaller needle size.

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Knitting tension – See how to measure it and why here
Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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100% Wool
from 4.20 $ /50g
DROPS Merino Extra Fine uni colour DROPS Merino Extra Fine uni colour 4.20 $ /50g
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DROPS Merino Extra Fine mix DROPS Merino Extra Fine mix 4.20 $ /50g
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needles DROPS Needles & Hooks Order
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 21.00$. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
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EXPLANATIONS FOR THE PATTERN:

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RIDGE/GARTER STITCH (worked back and forth):
Knit all rows.
1 ridge in height = Knit 2 rows.

ENGLISH RIB:
ROW 1 (right side): 1 stitch in garter stitch, * knit 2 together, 1 yarn over, slip 1 stitch as if to purl *, work from *-* until there are 3 stitches left, knit 2 together, 1 stitch in garter stitch.
ROW 2 (wrong side): 1 stitch in garter stitch, * 1 yarn over, slip 1 stitch as if to purl, knit the yarn over and slipped stitch together *, work from *-* until there are 2 stitches left, 1 yarn over, slip 1 stitch as if to purl and 1 stitch in garter stitch.
ROW 3 (right side): 1 stitch in garter stitch, * knit the yarn over and slipped stitch together, 1 yarn over, slip 1 stitch as if to purl *, work from *-* until there is 1 yarn over and 2 stitches left, knit the yarn over and slipped stitch together, 1 stitch in garter stitch.
Repeat rows 2 and 3 onwards.

DECREASE TIP:
All decreases are worked from the right side!
Decrease to the right of the mid-stitch: Knit together the next 3 stitches + their respective yarn overs (= 2 stitches decreased).
Decrease to the left of the mid-stitch: Slip the knitted stitch (+ yarn over) as if to knit, knit together the next 2 stitches (+ yarn over), pass the slipped stitch (+ yarn over) over the knitted together stitches (= 2 stitches decreased).

INCREASE TIP:
All increases are worked from the right side!
Increase 2 stitches in the knitted stitch + yarn over on each side of the mid-stitch with the marker (= 4 stitches increased on row), as follows:
Knit together the stitch and yarn over but do not slip them from the left needle, make 1 yarn over and knit together the same stitch and the yarn over one more time (= 2 stitches increased), work pattern as before over the next 3 stitches (middle of these = mid-stitch), knit together the stitch and yarn over but do not slip them from the left needle, make 1 yarn over and knit together the same stitch and the yarn over one more time (= 2 stitches increased).
Then work the new stitches in English rib – be aware that on the first row after increasing, the increased stitches will be knitted without their yarn overs (as they have not yet been made).

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START THE PIECE HERE:

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HEAD BAND – SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE:
The piece is worked back and forth with circular needle and sewn together mid-back.

HEAD BAND:
Cast on 34 stitches with circular needle size 3.5 mm = US 4 and Merino Extra Fine. Work row 1 in ENGLISH RIB – see description above = 23 stitches. Insert 1 marker in the middle stitch on the row (knitted stitch from the right side). Continue repeating rows 2 and 3 in English rib, AT THE SAME TIME when you have worked 6 rows (i.e. 3 visible knitted stitches in height on the right side), work PATTERN-1 and PATTERN-2 from the right side as follows:

PATTERN-1:
Work PATTERN-1 over a total of 8 rows as follows: Work English rib as before over the first 5 stitches, decrease 2 stitches – read DECREASE TIP, work English rib until there are 8 stitches left on the row, AT THE SAME TIME increase 2 stitches on each side of the mid-stitch – read INCREASE TIP (= 4 stitches increased), decrease 2 stitches and work the last 5 stitches as before.
Work 1 row of English rib back from the wrong side.
REMEMBER THE KNITTING GAUGE!
Continue back and forth with English rib for 6 more rows (i.e. 3 visible knitted stitches in height on the right side).

PATTERN-2:
Work PATTERN-2 over a total of 8 rows as follows: Work English rib as before over the first 3 stitches, decrease 2 stitches, work English rib until there are 6 stitches left on the row, AT THE SAME TIME increase 2 stitches on each side of the mid-stitch (= 4 stitches increased), decrease 2 stitches and work the last 3 stitches as before.
Work 1 row of English rib back from the wrong side.
Continue back and forth with English rib for 6 more rows (i.e. 3 visible knitted stitches in height on the right side).

Continue back and forth with alternately PATTERN-1 and PATTERN-2.
When the piece measures approx. 49 cm = 19 1/4" (or desired length) bind off with knit. To avoid the edge being tight, bind off the yarn overs as normal stitches. Cut the strand leaving enough length to sew the seam with. Sew together mid-back in each and every stitch inside the cast-on/bind-off edges.

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NECK WARMER – SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE:
The piece is worked back and forth with circular needle in sections, which are sewn together at the shoulder. The neck is worked to finish.

BACK PIECE:
Cast on 76-88 stitches with circular needle size 4 mm = US 6 and Merino Extra Fine.
Work row 1 in ENGLISH RIB – read description above = 51-59 stitches. Insert 1 marker in the middle stitch on the row (knitted stitch from right side). Continue repeating rows 2 and 3 in English rib. REMEMBER THE KNITTING GAUGE!
When the piece measures 5 cm = 2” – adjust so the next row is from the right side, work PATTERN-1 as follows:

PATTERN-1:
Work PATTERN-1 over a total of 8 rows as follows: Work English rib as before until there are 6 stitches left before the mid-stitch, decrease 2 stitches – read DECREASE TIP, work the next stitch as before, increase 2 stitches on each side of the mid-stitch – read INCREASE TIP, work the next stitch as before, decrease 2 stitches, work to the end of the row as before.
Work 1 row of English rib back from the wrong side.
Continue back and forth with English rib for 6 more rows (i.e. 3 visible knitted stitches in height on the right side).

PATTERN-2:
Work PATTERN-2 over a total of 8 rows as follows: Work English rib as before until there are 8 stitches left before the mid-stitch, decrease 2 stitches, work the next 11 stitches as before, AT THE SAME TIME increase 2 stitches on each side of the mid-stitch, decrease 2 stitches and, work to the end of the row as before.
Work 1 row of English rib back from the wrong side.
Continue back and forth with English rib for 6 more rows (i.e. 3 visible knitted stitches in height on the right side).

Continue back and forth with alternately PATTERN-1 and PATTERN-2.
When the piece measures 28-30 cm = 11”-11 3/4", work the next row from the right side as follows: Work the first 13-17 stitches before placing them on a thread (= right shoulder), bind off the next 25-25 stitches (+ yarn overs) – to avoid the bind-off edge being tight bind off the yarn overs as normal stitches (= neck), work the next 13-17 stitches (= left shoulder). Each shoulder is finished separately. Continue with English rib and 1 edge stitch in garter stitch on each side until the piece measures 30-32 cm = 11 3/4"-12 1/2". Bind off with knit but, to avoid the bind-off edge being tight, bind off the yarn overs as normal stitches. Work the other shoulder in the same way.

FRONT PIECE:
Cast on and work English rib and PATTERN-1 and PATTERN-2 in the same way as the back piece. When the piece measures 24-26 cm = 9 1/2"-10 1/4", work the next row from the right side as follows: Work the first 17-21 stitches as before and place them on a thread for the left shoulder, work the next 17 stitches as before and place them on a new thread for the neck, work the last 17-21 stitches as before for right shoulder. Each shoulder is finished separately.
Right shoulder:
Continue with English rib and 1 edge stitch in garter stitch on each side, AT THE SAME TIME on the next row from the right side begin to decrease for the neck as follows: Work 1 edge stitch in garter stitch, work the next 2 stitches as before, slip the knitted stitch (+ yarn over) as if to knit, knit together the next 2 stitches (+ yarn over) and pass the slipped stitch (+ yarn over) over the knitted together stitches (= 2 stitches decreased), work to the end of the row as before. Repeat this decrease every 6th row (i.e. 3 visible knitted stitches in height on the right side) a total of 2 times = 13-17 stitches left on the shoulder. When the piece measures 6 cm = 2 3/8” from where you placed stitches on the thread for the neck (the piece measures approx. 30-32 cm = 11 3/4"-12 1/2"), bind off with knit but, to avoid the bind-off edge being tight, bind off the yarn overs as normal stitches.
Left shoulder:
Start from the wrong side (i.e. from the neck) and work English rib as before with 1 edge stitch in garter stitch on each side, AT THE SAME TIME on the next row from the right side begin to decrease for the neck as follows: Work until there are 6 stitches left on the row, knit together the next 3 stitches + their respective yarn overs (= 2 stitches decreased). Repeat this decrease every 6th row (i.e. 3 visible knitted stitches in height on the right side) a total of 2 times = 13-17 stitches left on the shoulder. When the piece measures 6 cm = 2 3/8” from where you placed stitches on the thread for the neck (the piece measures approx. 30-32 cm = 11 3/4"-12 1/2"), bind off with knit but, to avoid the bind-off edge being tight, bind off the yarn overs as normal stitches.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew the shoulder seams inside the bind-off edge – make sure the seam is not tight!

NECK:
Start middle back of the neck with Merino Extra Fine and short circular needle size 4 mm = US 6. Work from the right side as follows:
Knit up 25 stitches before the thread mid front (knit up 1 stitch in each stitch on the neck and knit up the rest inside the 1 edge stitch), work PATTERN-1 and PATTERN-2 as before over the 17 stitches from the thread, knit up 24 stitches after the thread (knit up 1 stitch in each stitch on the neck and knit up the rest inside the 1 edge stitch) = 66 stitches. Using the above numbers when knitting up stitches allows the English rib to fit nicely on the neck.
ROUND 1: * Make 1 yarn over, slip 1 stitch as if to purl, knit 1 *, work from *-* to end of round, but over the 17 stitches from the thread work pattern as before. The English rib should fit all the way round.
ROUND 2: * Purl together the yarn over and the slipped stitch, make 1 yarn over, slip 1 stitch as if to purl *, work from *-* to end of round, working pattern as before over the 17 stitches mid front.
ROUND 3: * Make 1 yarn over, slip 1 stitch as if to purl, knit together the yarn over and the slipped stitch *, work from *-* to end of round, working pattern as before over the 17 stitches mid front.
Repeat rounds 2 and 3 until the neck measures 7 cm = 2 3/4". Bind off with knit over knit and purl over purl but, to avoid the bind-off edge being tight, bind off the yarn overs as normal stitches.

Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 214-12) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

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Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

We have also step-by-step guides for different techniques which you'll find here.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (12)

country flag Margarita wrote:

No estan los diagramas

07.03.2022 - 21:45

DROPS Design answered:

Hola Margarita, parece que hay un error en este patrón. Trataremos de resolverlo lo antes posible.

08.03.2022 kl. 21:44

country flag ANNE MARIE HERMANN wrote:

Hvorfor står der i opskriften til bagstykket at der skal slås 76 m op når arbejdet kun strikkes over 51 m. Det kan tælles på billedet. Vh Anne Hermann

02.12.2021 - 15:05

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Anne När du har stickat första pind i helpatent har du 51 masker. Mvh DROPS Design

03.12.2021 kl. 12:18

country flag Ana Cecilia Ramirez wrote:

Jeg lurer på hva jeg gjør gal. Jeg er ikke fornøyd med kantene. Jeg følger å strikke rille med først og siste maskene men de blir ujevnt. Er det noe du kan anbefale? Strikker jeg kanskje for stramt?

12.04.2021 - 22:50

DROPS Design answered:

Hei Ana. Om du ser på bildet er den kanten også litt ujevn. Prøv evnt å løfte 1. maske fra retten (den som strikkes i rille) over til høyre pinne istedenfor å strikke den (bare pass på at det ikke blir for stramt). Se om du syns det blir penere. mvh DROPS design

26.04.2021 kl. 11:43

country flag Cathrine Ruud wrote:

Jeg finner ikke mønster diagram her..

17.03.2021 - 00:12

DROPS Design answered:

Hei Cathrine, Det finnes ikke diagram fordi mønstrene er beskrevet i teksten på toppen av oppskriften. God fornøyelse!

17.03.2021 kl. 07:58

country flag Bodil E wrote:

Oppskrift Celtic Poetry Jeg har spørsmål ang Pannebåndet. Man skal legge opp 34 masker. Strikk 1. pinne hel patent. - les forklaring over = 23 masker. Jeg skjønner ikke disse 23 maskene. Er det riktig antall eller feil i oppskrifta?

16.03.2021 - 22:12

DROPS Design answered:

Hei Bodil, Når man strikker helpatent er det laget kast annenhver pinne som er ikke telt som masker. Disse blir strikket sammen med løse maskene på neste pinne. Når du teller masker er det kun ordentlige masker som telles. God fornøyelse!

17.03.2021 kl. 08:08

country flag Thadee wrote:

Hi ! Est ce que le 1er maille (celui au point mousse) compte dans les 5 premièrs mailles à faire dans le PT fantaisie 1 ou les 5 1er mailles correspondent à 2 mailles ensemble à l'endroit, 1 jeté et une maille envers, et re 2 mailles ensemble à l'endroit ? Les jetés font bien partie de la maille envers donc on ne les compte pas ? Merci

19.02.2021 - 16:47

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Thadee, tout à fait, la maille lisière appartient aux 5 premières mailles du rang - et les jetés ne comptent effectivement pas comme des mailles car ils appartiennent à la maille glissée. Bon tricot!

22.02.2021 kl. 07:10

country flag Cla wrote:

Bonjour, merci pour votre réponse précédente. Je reprends seulement mon tricot et me voilà face au point fantaisie. Je me perds un peu dans les étapes à faire en même temps pour les augmentations et diminutions, pourriez-vous tenter de me réexpliquer s'il vous plaît ? Merci par avance !!

28.01.2021 - 18:02

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Cla, pour tricoter le point fantaisie-1 procédez ainsi: tricotez les 5 premières mailles comme avant, puis diminuez 2 m (= cf DIMINUTIONS à droite de la m centrale), continuez comme avant jusqu'avant la m centrale, augmentez 2 m de chaque côté de la m centrale, cf AUGMENTATIONS. Tricotez jusqu'à ce qu'il reste 8 m, diminuez 2 m (= cf DIMINUTIONS après la maille centrale) et terminez votre rang. N'hésitez pas, si besoin, à vous entrainer sur un échantillon à faire les diminutions et les augmentations Bon tricot!

29.01.2021 kl. 07:27

country flag Henna Laaksonen wrote:

I am checking knitting tension and wondering why I am knitting 18 stitches in width but 24 rows in height with English rib in area of 10 x 10 cm using 3.75mm circular needle. Is there any possibility that there is a mistake in this pattern or do I have to change the needles? Now I have used Novita wooden 3.5mm and ChiaoGoo 3.75mm needles.

14.01.2021 - 18:37

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Mrs Laaksonen, you should have 18 sts and 44 rows or 17 sts x 42 rows worked in English rib, ie there should be only 22 or 21 knitted stitches visibile in height - read more about DROPS Merino Extra Fine here. Happy knitting!

15.01.2021 kl. 06:42

country flag Cla wrote:

Bonjour,\r\n\r\nJe ne comprends pas comment au rang 1 on passe de 34 à 23 mailles alors que la maille sur l\'vers est glissée est non tricotée avec le jeté (d\'après le texte). \r\nPourriez-vous me donner plus de précisions s\'il vous plaît ?\r\n\r\nCordialement\r\nCh

13.01.2021 - 12:17

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Cla, au tout premier rang des côtes anglaises, on diminue 11 mailles en tricotant ainsi: 1 maille au point mousse, *2 mailles ensemble à l'endroit (= 1 diminution), 1 jeté, glisser 1 maille à l'envers (le jeté appartient à la maille envers et ne compte pas comme une maille*, répéter de *-* jusqu'à ce qu'il reste 3 mailles (= 10 fois = on diminue 10 mailles), tricotez 2 mailles ensemble à l'endroit (= 1 diminution) et 1 maille au point mousse. Il vous reste 23 mailles. Cette vidéo montre comment tricoter des côtes anglaises avec jetés. Bon tricot!

13.01.2021 kl. 12:31

country flag Johanna wrote:

Hallo liebes Drops-Team, Bei der Anleitung für das Stirnband ist, glaube ich, ein Fehler: nach der ersten Reihe Vollpatent hat man 33 und nicht 23 Maschen, oder? Liebe Grüße, Johanna

08.11.2020 - 21:07

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Johanna, nachdem Sie die 1. Reihe gestrickt haben (= 1 Masche KRAUS RECHTS (siehe oben), * 2 Maschen rechts zusammenstricken, 1 Umschlag arbeiten, 1 Masche wie zum Linksstricken abheben *, von *-* wiederholen bis noch 3 Maschen übrig sind, 2 Maschen rechts zusammenstricken, enden mit 1 Masche kraus rechts.) sind es nur noch 23 Maschen (die Umschläge vom Vollpatent sind nicht als Maschen gezählt). Viel Spaß beim stricken!

09.11.2020 kl. 11:36

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