DROPS / 217 / 32

Bending Willows by DROPS Design

Knitted sweater in DROPS Puna and DROPS Kid-Silk. Piece is knitted top down with cables and double neck edge. Size XS–XXL.

DROPS design: Pattern pu-048
Yarn group B and A
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SIZE:
XS - S - M - L - XL – XXL

Finished measurements:
Chest measurements: 92-100-108-116-128-140 cm = 36 1/4"-39 3/8"-42 1/2"-45 3/4"-50 3/8"-55"
Full length: 53-55-57-59-61-63 cm = 21"-21 5/8"-22 1/2"-23 1/4"-24"-24 3/4"

All measurements in charts are in cm.

MATERIALS:
DROPS PUNA from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group B)
450-500-500-600-650-700 g color 07, light grey
And use:
DROPS KID-SILK from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group A)
75-75-100-100-125-125 g color 01, off white

KNITTING GAUGE:
16 stitches in width and 20 rows vertically in stockinette stitch and 1 strand of each quality = 10 x 10 cm = 4” x 4”.

NEEDLES:
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 5.5 mm = US 9
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 5.5 mm = US 9 : Length 40 = 16” and 60 = 24” or 80 cm = 32” for stockinette stitch.
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 4.5 mm = US 7
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 4.5 mm = US 7: Length 40 = 16” and 80 cm = 32” for rib.
DROPS CABLE NEEDLE - for cables.
Needle size is only a suggestion! If you have too many stitches on 10 cm = 4” switch to a larger needle size. If you have too few stitches on 10 cm = 4” switch to a smaller needle size.

Have you knitted/crocheted this or any other of our designs? Tag your pictures in social media with #dropsdesign so we can see them!

Want to use a different yarn? Try our yarn converter!
Not sure which size you should choose? Then it might help you to know that the model in the picture is approx. 5 ft 7 in and uses size S or M. If you are making a sweater, cardigan, dress or similar garment, you will find a graphic with the measurements of the finished garment (in cm) at the bottom of the pattern.

100% Alpaca
from 4.20 $ /50g
DROPS Puna natural DROPS Puna natural 4.20 $ /50g
Purple Sheep Yarns
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DROPS Puna natural mix DROPS Puna natural mix 4.20 $ /50g
Purple Sheep Yarns
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DROPS Puna uni colour DROPS Puna uni colour 4.80 $ /50g
Purple Sheep Yarns
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75% Mohair, 25% Silk
from 5.80 $ /25g
DROPS Kid-Silk uni colour DROPS Kid-Silk uni colour 5.80 $ /25g
Purple Sheep Yarns
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DROPS Kid-Silk long print DROPS Kid-Silk long print 5.80 $ /25g
Purple Sheep Yarns
Order
DROPS Needles & Hooks
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 55.20$. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
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EXPLANATION FOR THE PATTERN:

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GARTER STITCH (back and forth):
Knit all rows.
1 ridge vertically = knit 2 rows.

PATTERN:
See diagrams A.1 to A.4. Choose diagram for your size (applies to A.1a and A.1b). Diagrams show all rows in pattern seen from the right side.

INCREASE/DECREASE TIP (evenly):
To calculate how to increase/decrease evenly, use the total number of stitches on row (e.g. 19 stitches) minus 1 edge stitch in each side (e.g. 2 stitches) , and divide the remaining stitches by number of increases/decreases to be done (e.g. 4) = 4.3.
In this example increase by making 1 yarn over after alternately approx. every 4th and 5th stitch, do not increase over bands. On next row work yarn overs twisted to avoid holes
If decreasing knit in this example alternately approx. every 3rd and 4th stitch and every 4th and 5th stitch together.

NCREASE TIP (applies to sleeves):
Work until 1 stitches remain before the first of the 3 marker threads, make 1 yarn over, work until 1 stitch remains before marker thread mid under sleeve, make 1 yarn over, knit 2 (marker thread is in the middle of these 2 stitches), work 1 yarn over, knit until next marker thread, knit 1, make 1 yarn over = 4 stitches increased. On next round knit yarn overs twisted to avoid holes. Then work the new stitches in stockinette stitch.

DECREASE TIP (applies to sleeves):
Decrease 1 stitch on each side of marker thread as follows: Work until 3 stitches remain before marker thread and knit 2 together, knit 2 (marker thread is between these stitches), slip 1 stitch knitwise, knit 1, pass slipped stitch over stitch worked.

BIND-OFF TIP:
To avoid a tight bind-off edge you may use a larger needle size. If this also is too tight, work a 1 yarn over after approx. every 5th stitch while binding off (bind off yarn overs as regular stitches).

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START THE PIECE HERE:

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SWEATER - SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE:
Work back and forth in parts, work top down. Sew the parts together when finished. Work sleeve first back and forth until sleeve cap is done, then work sleeve in the round on a short circular needle/double pointed needles. Work neck edge in the round on a short circular needle at the end.

FRONT PIECE:
Right shoulder:
Cast on 19-22-24-26-28-31 stitches on circular needle size 5.5 mm = US 9 with 1 strand Puna and 1 strand Kid-Silk (= 2 strands). Purl 1 row from wrong side while increasing 4 stitches evenly - read INCREASE/DECREASE TIP = 23-26-28-30-32-35 stitches. On next row (from right side) work pattern as follows:
1 edge stitch in GARTER STITCH – read explanation above, 2-3-4-6-8-10 stitches in stockinette stitch, purl 3-5-6-7-7-8, A.1a (choose diagram for your size) over the next 17-17-17-16-16-16 stitches. Continue back and forth like this. On 7th-7th-7th-9th-9th-9th row in diagram begin increase for neck. Cast on stitches at the end of every row from right side as follows (the increased stitches are shown in diagram). Cast on 1 stitch 2-2-2-1-1-1 time and 2 stitches 2-2-2-3-3-3 times (6-6-6-7-7-7 stitches increased for neck + 3 stitches increased in diagram). When the last 2 stitches have been cast on, 1 row remains in diagram. Cut the yarn and put piece aside (work last row in diagram later when right and left shoulder are put together). There are now 32-35-37-40-42-45 stitches for right shoulder.
Left shoulder:
Cast on 19-22-24-26-28-31 stitches on circular needle size 5.5 mm = US 9 with 1 strand Puna and 1 strand Kid-Silk (= 2 strands). Purl 1 row from wrong side while at the same time increasing 4 stitches evenly = 23-26-28-30-32-35 stitches. On next row (from right side) work pattern as follows: A.1b (choose diagram for your size) over the first 17-17-17-16-16-16 stitches, purl 3-5-6-7-7-8, 2-3-4-6-8-10 stitches in stockinette stitch, 1 edge stitch in garter stitch. On 6th-6th-6th-8th-8th-8th row in diagram begin increase for neck. Cast on stitches at the end of every row from wrong side as follows (the increased stitches are shown in diagram). Cast on 1 stitch 2-2-2-1-1-1 time and 2 stitches 2-2-2-3-3-3 times (6-6-6-7-7-7 stitches increased for neck + 3 stitches increased in diagram). When last row in diagram has been worked (there are now 32-35-37-40-42-45 stitches on needle for left shoulder), cast on 16-16-16-16-16-16 stitches on needle for neck, then work last row in A.1a (from wrong side) over the first 26-26-26-26-26-26 stitches on right shoulder, then work as before over the remaining stitches = 80-86-90-96-100-106 stitches.
REMEMBER THE KNITTING GAUGE!
Now work pattern from right side as follows: 1 stitch in garter stitch, knit over knit and purl over purl over the first 5-8-10-13-15-18 stitches, A.2a over the next 34 stitches, A.2b over the next 34 stitches, knit over knit and purl over purl over the next 5-8-10-13-15-18 stitches, 1 edge stitch in garter stitch. Continue back and forth like this (increase 2 stitches in A.2a and 2 stitches in A.2b) = 84-90-94-100-104-110 stitches.
When armhole measures 17-18-18-19-19-19 cm = 6 3/4"-7"-7"-7 1/2"-7 1/2"-7 1/2", cast on new stitches for armholes in each side as follows: Cast on 1 stitch 1-1-2-2-2-3 times, 2 stitches 0-0-0-0-1-1 time and 3-4-4-5-6-6 stitches 1 time = 92-100-106-114-124-132 stitches. Insert a marker here. Now measure piece from here.
Work the new stitches in stockinette stitch. When A.2a and A.2b have been worked vertically, work pattern as follows: Work 1 edge stitch in garter stitch, knit over knit and purl over purl over the next 9-13-16-20-25-29 stitches, A.3a over the next 11 stitches, A.3b over the next 50 stitches, A.3c over the next 11 stitches, knit over knit and purl over purl over the next 9-13-16-20-25-29 stitches, 1 edge stitch in garter stitch. Continue like this until piece measures 30-31-32-33-34-35 cm = 11 3/4"-12 1/4"-12 1/2"-13"-13 3/8"-13 3/4" from marker. If piece is shorter than this before A.3a to A.3c have been worked vertically, continue with A.4 over the middle 50 stitches on needle, and work knit over knit and purl over purl over the remaining stitches until correct measurements.
Knit 1 row from right side while increasing 12-14-18-20-20-22 stitches evenly = 104-114-124-134-144-154 stitches. Purl 1 row from wrong side. Switch to circular needle size 4.5 mm = US 7. Work rib from right side as follows:
1 edge stitch in garter stitch, rib (= knit 2/purl 3) until 3 stitches remain on row, knit 2, 1 edge stitch in garter stitch. Continue back and forth with rib like this. When rib measures 5 cm = 2", bind off with knit over knit and purl over purl. Sweater measures approx. 53-55-57-59-61-63 cm = 21"-21 5/8"-22 1/2"-23 1/4"-24"-24 3/4" from shoulder and down.

BACK PIECE:
Left shoulder:
Cast on 19-22-24-26-28-31 stitches on circular needle size 5.5 mm = US 9 with 1 strand Puna and 1 strand Kid-Silk (= 2 strands). Purl 1 row from wrong side while at the same time increasing 4 stitches evenly = 23-26-28-30-32-35 stitches. On next row (from right side) work pattern as follows: 1 edge stitch in garter stitch, 2-3-4-6-8-10 stitches in stockinette stitch, purl 3-5-6-7-7-8, A.1a (choose diagram for your size) over the next 17-17-17-16-16-16 stitches. Continue back and forth like this until 7th row has been worked. At the end of this row cast on 1 new stitch (= towards the neck) = 24-27-29-31-33-36 stitches. Cut the yarn and put piece aside.
Right shoulder:
Cast on 19-22-24-26-28-31 stitches on circular needle size 5.5 mm = US 9 with 1 strand Puna and 1 strand Kid-Silk (= 2 strands). Purl 1 row from wrong side while at the same time increasing 4 stitches evenly = 23-26-28-30-32-35 stitches. On next row (from right side) work pattern as follows: A.1b (choose diagram for your size) over the first 17-17-17-16-16-16 stitches, purl 3-5-6-7-7-8, 2-3-4-6-8-10 stitches in stockinette stitch, 1 edge stitch in garter stitch. When 6th row has been worked, cast on 1 stitch at the end of this row (= towards the neck) = 24-27-29-31-33-36 stitches. Work 1 row from right side. Work next row from wrong side as follows:
Work as before over stitches on right shoulder, knit the new stitch (seen from wrong side), cast on 26-26-26-28-28-28 stitches for neck, work stitches from left shoulder onto needle from wrong side as follows: Knit first stitch (seen from wrong side), work next row in A.1a and continue as before the rest of row. There are now 74-80-84-90-94-100 stitches on needle. Continue back and forth with pattern as before and purl (seen from right side) stitches cast on for neck. The cable on each side of neck is displaced inwards towards mid back as shown in A.1a and A.1b (increase shown in diagrams towards the neck, does not apply to back piece). When A.1a and A.1b have been worked vertically, 3 stitches have been increased in each diagram and there are 80-86-90-96-100-106 stitches on needle. Then work rest of back piece the same way as on front piece. I.e. work pattern the same way (increase 2 stitches in A.2a and 2 stitches in A.2b) = 84-90-94-100-104-110 stitches. When piece measures 17-18-18-19-19-19 cm = 6 3/4"-7"-7"-7 1/2"-7 1/2"-7 1/2", cast on new stitches for armhole in each side the same way as on front piece = 92-100-106-114-124-132 stitches. Continue with pattern and rib the same way as on front piece.

SLEEVES:
Cast on 24-26-26-28-28-30 stitches on with 1 strand Puna and 1 strand Kid-Silk (= 2 strands) on circular needle size 5.5 mm = US 9. Now work in stockinette stitch back and forth and cast on stitches for sleeve cap in each side as follows: Cast on 2 stitches 5-5-6-6-4-4 times, 1 stitch 0-0-0-0-3-4 times, 2 stitches 0-0-0-0-1-1 time and 3-4-4-5-6-6 stitches 1 time = 50-54-58-62-66-70 stitches. Then work sleeves in the round on double pointed needles/a short circular needle. Insert a marker thread mid under sleeve (= in the middle of the 6-4-4-10-12-12 new stitches under sleeve = 3-4-4-5-6-6 new stitches on each side of marker thread). NOW MEASURE PIECE FROM HERE!
When piece measures 3 cm = 1 1/8", decrease 1 stitch on each side of marker thread under sleeve - read DECREASE TIP. Decrease like this approx. every 3 cm = 1 1/8" 3 times in total in all sizes = 44-48-52-56-60-64 stitches.
When sleeve measures 21-21-21-20-18-16 cm = 8 1/4"-8 1/4"-8 1/4"-8"-7"-6 1/4", insert 1 new marker thread after 12 stitches on each side of marker thread mid under sleeve (= 3 marker threads under sleeve). On next round begin increase under sleeve – read INCREASE TIP. Increase like this approx. every 3-4-4-5-5-5 cm = 1 1/8"-1 1/2"-1 1/2"-2"-2"-2" 5-4-4-3-3-3 times in , total = 64-64-68-68-72-76 stitches. Continue round in stockinette stitch until sleeve measures 48-47-46-44-43-41 cm = 19"-18 1/2"-18"-17 1/4"-17"-16 1/8". Knit 1-1-2-2-0-1, * knit 2 together, knit 1 *, work from *-* the entire round = 43-43-46-46-48-51 stitches. Knit 1 round while decreasing 13-8-11-11-8-11 stitches evenly = 30-35-35-35-40-40 stitches. Switch to double pointed needles size 4.5 mm = US 7. Work rib (knit 2/purl 3) in the round for 4 cm = 1 1/2". Bind off stitches with knit over knit and purl over purl. Sleeve measures approx. 57-56-56-55-55-54 cm = 22 1/2"-22"-22"-21 5/8"-21 5/8"-21 1/4". Work the other sleeve the same way.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew shoulder seams together with grafting/kitchener stitches inside cast-on edge. Sew sleeves to body inside cast-on edge/1 edge stitch in garter stitch. Then sew side seam from armhole and down inside 1 edge stitch in garter stitch. Repeat in the other side.

DOUBLE NECK EDGE:
Pick up 80-88 stitches with a short circular needle size 4.5 mm = US 7 and 1 strand in each quality (= 2 strands), inside 1 edge stitch around the neck. Number of stitches must be divisible by 4. Work rib (knit 2/purl 2) in the round for 11 cm = 4 3/8". Bind off stitches with knit over knit and purl over purl. Fold rib at the top of neck down on the inside of garment. Fasten rib to form a folding edge. To avoid a tight neck edge and avoiding the edge to tip outwards, it is important to make the seam elastic.

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

= knit from the right side, purl from the wrong side
= purl from the right side, knit from the wrong side
= slip 4 stitches on cable needle in front of piece, knit 4, knit 4 from cable needle
= slip 4 stitches on cable needle behind piece, knit 4, knit 4 from cable needle
= slip 4 stitches on cable needle in front of piece, purl 1, knit 4 from cable needle
= slip 1 stitch on cable needle behind piece, knit 4, purl 1 from cable needle
= slip 2 knit stitches on cable needle behind piece, knit 2, knit 2 from cable needle
= slip 2 knit stitches on cable needle in front of piece, knit 2, knit 2 from cable needle
= slip 5 stitches on cable needle in front of piece, purl 2, knit 5 from cable needle
= slip 2 stitches on cable needle behind piece, knit 5, purl 2 from cable needle
= slip 5 stitches on cable needle in front of piece, purl 1, knit 5 from cable needle
= slip 1 stitch on cable needle behind piece, knit 5, purl 1 from cable needle
= slip 3 stitches on cable needle behind piece, knit 5, knit 3 from cable needle
= slip 5 knit stitches on cable needle in front of piece, knit 3, knit 5 from cable needle
= this stitch is not a stitch because stitch was decreased earlier in piece, go directly to next symbol in diagram
= between 2 stitches make 1 yarn over. On next row work yarn over twisted to avoid holes
= slip 5 stitches on cable needle in front of piece, knit 1, knit 5 from cable needle
= slip 1 stitch on cable needle behind piece, knit 5, knit 1 from cable needle
= slip 4 stitches on cable needle in front of piece, purl 3, knit 4 from cable needle
= slip 3 stitches on cable needle behind piece, knit 4, purl 3 from cable needle







Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 217-32) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (3)

Tina 08.06.2020 - 11:41:

Figurschmeichler! Tolles Design

Gotik 05.06.2020 - 21:10:

Sehr schöne Zöpfe

Beatrice DELEPINE 05.06.2020 - 08:00:

Ce modele est très beau, l'hiver dernier vous aviez deja proposé ce modele, j'ai acheté la laine puna pour le faire et vous ne l'avez pas publié, j'etais deçu car c'etait mon préféré, j'espère que vous allez le publier cette année!! merci

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