DROPS Alaska
DROPS Alaska
100% Wool
from 2.60 $ /50g
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 39.00$. Read more.

Columns of Valhalla

Knitted sweater in DROPS Alaska. The piece is worked with saddle shoulders, cables and split in the sides. Sizes S - XXXL.

DROPS 217-15
DROPS Design: Pattern no x-454
Yarn group C or A + A
-------------------------------------------------------

SIZES:
S - M - L - XL - XXL – XXXL

Finished measurements:
Chest measurements: 92-100-108-118-130-142 cm = 36 1/4"-39 3/8"-42 1/2"-46 1/2"-51 1/4"-55 3/4”
Full length: 54-56-58-60-62-64 cm = 21 1/4"-22"-22 3/4"-23 5/8"-24 3/8"-25 1/4"

All measurements in charts are in cm.

MATERIALS:
DROPS ALASKA from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group C)
750-800-900-1000-1100-1200 g color 63, pearl grey

KNITTING GAUGE:
16 stitches in width and 20 rows in height with stockinette stitch = 10 x 10 cm = 4” x 4”.

NEEDLES:
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 5.5 MM = US 9.
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 5.5 MM = US 9: Length 40 cm = 14” and 60 cm = 24” or 80 cm = 32”.
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 4.5 MM = US 7.
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 4.5 MM = US 7: Length 40 cm = 16” and 80 cm = 32” for rib.
DROPS CABLE NEEDLE – for cables.
Needle size is only a guide. If you get too many stitches on 10 cm = 4”, change to a larger needle size. If you get too few stitches on 10 cm = 4”, change to a smaller needle size.

-------------------------------------------------------

Knitting tension – See how to measure it and why here
Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

-------------------------------------------------------

DROPS Alaska
DROPS Alaska
100% Wool
from 2.60 $ /50g
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 39.00$. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
-------------------------------------------------------

EXPLANATIONS FOR THE PATTERN:

-------------------------------------------------------

RIDGE/GARTER STITCH (worked back and forth):
Knit all rows.
1 ridge in height = Knit 2 rows.

PATTERN:
See diagrams A.1 to A.3. Choose diagram for your size (applies to A.3). A.1 applies to sizes XL, XXL and XXXL.

DECREASE TIP (evenly spaced):
To work out how to decrease evenly, count the number of stitches to be decreased over (e.g. 14 stitches) and divide by the number of decreases to be made (e.g. 3) = 4.6.
In this example decrease by knitting together alternately each 3rd and 4th and each 4th and 5th stitch (approx.).
INCREASE TIP:
Increase 1 stitch on each side of the marker thread as follows:
Work until there are 2 stitches left before the marker thread, make 1 yarn over, knit 4 (marker thread sits in the middle of these 4 stitches), 1 yarn over. On the next round knit the yarn overs twisted to avoid holes.

-------------------------------------------------------

START THE PIECE HERE:

-------------------------------------------------------

SWEATER – SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE:
The piece is worked in sections which are sewn together to finish. The front and back pieces are worked back and forth with circular needle. The sleeves are worked in the round with double pointed needles/short circular needle as far as the armholes. The rest of the sleeve is worked back and forth. A double neck is worked in the round to finish.

BACK PIECE:
Cast on 107-121-135-141-141-155 stitches with circular needle size 4.5 mm = US 7 and Alaska. Purl 1 row (= wrong side). Then work rib in the different sizes as follows:

Sizes S, M and L:
Work 3 stitches in GARTER STITCH – read description above, work rib (= knit 3, purl 4) until there are 6 stitches left, knit 3 and work 3 garter stitches. Continue back and forth with knit over knit, purl over purl and 3 stitches in garter stitch on each side. When the rib measures 5 cm = 2", change to circular needle size 5.5 mm = US 9.
Work the next row from the right side as follows: 3 garter stitches, knit 7-14-21 and decrease at the same time 0-3-7 stitches evenly spaced over these stitches (= 7-11-14 stitches), knit over knit and purl over purl the next 87-87-87 stitches and decrease, at the same time, all purl-4 sections to purl-3 by purling 2 together (= 12-12-12 stitches decreased), knit 7-14-21 and decrease at the same time 0-3-7 stitches evenly spaced over these stitches and work 3 garter stitches = 95-103-109 stitches. Work back with knit over knit, purl over purl and 3 garter stitches on each side.

Sizes XL, XXL and XXXL:
Work 3 stitches in GARTER STITCH – read description above, work rib (= knit 3, purl 4) over the next 21-21-28 stitches, A.1 over the next 90 stitches (= 3 repeats of 30 stitches), rib (= knit 3 / purl 4) over the next 21-21-28 stitches, knit 3 and work 3 garter stitches. Continue back and forth like this. When the rib measures 5 cm = 2", change to circular needle size 5.5 mm = US 9.
Work the next row from the right side as follows: 3 garter stitches, knit 21-21-28 decrease at the same time 6-2-4 stitches evenly spaced over these stitches (= 15-19-24 stitches), knit 3, knit over knit and purl over purl the next 87-87-87 stitches and decrease at the same time all purl sections by purling 2 together (i.e. all purl-4 sections become purl-3 and all purl-5 sections become purl-4 = 12-12-12 stitches decreased), knit 3, knit 21-21-28 and decrease at the same time 6-2-4 stitches evenly spaced over these stitches (= 15-19-24 stitches), 3 garter stitches = 117-125-135 stitches. Work back with knit over knit, purl over purl and 3 garter stitches on each side.

All sizes:
Now work pattern as follows: 3 garter stitches, stockinette stitch over the next 7-11-14-15-19-24 stitches, * A.2, A.3 (choose diagram for your size) *, work from *-* 3 times, A.2, stockinette stitch over the next 7-11-14-15-19-24 stitches and work 3 garter stitches. Continue this pattern back and forth. REMEMBER THE KNITTING GAUGE!
When the piece measures 32-33-34-35-36-37 cm = 12 1/2"-13"-13 3/8"-13 3/4"-14 1/4"-14 1/2", bind off for the armholes on both sides as follows: Bind off 4-4-5-5-6-6 stitches 1 time, 3 stitches 0-1-1-1-1-2 times, 2 stitches 1-1-1-2-3-3 times and 1 stitch 1-1-2-3-3-3 times (= 7-10-12-15-18-21 stitches bind off for each armhole) = 81-83-85-87-89-93 stitches. Continue back and forth with pattern as before over the middle 75-75-75-81-81-81 stitches, 1 edge stitch in garter stitch on each side, and the remaining stitches in stockinette stitch (= 2-3-4-2-3-5 stockinette stitches between the pattern and the edge stitches).
When the piece measures 48-50-52-54-56-58 cm = 19"-19 3/4"-20 1/2"-21 1/4"-22"-22 3/4" – adjust so the next row is worked from the right side (the armhole measures 16-17-18-19-20-21 cm = 6 1/4"-6 3/4"-7"-7 1/2"-8"-8 1/4"), work as follows: 1 edge stitch in garter stitch, knit over knit and purl over purl until there is 1 stitch left and, at the same time, decrease 22 stitches evenly over the knitted sections in the large cables, 1 edge stitch in garter stitch = 59-61-63-65-67-71 stitches. Bind off.

FRONT PIECE:
Cast on 107-121-135-141-141-155 stitches with circular needle size 4.5 mm = US 7 and Alaska. Purl 1 row (= wrong side). Then work rib and pattern in the same way as the back piece. When the piece measures 32-33-34-35-36-37 cm = 12 1/2"-13"-13 3/8"-13 3/4"-14 1/4"-14 1/2", bind off for the armholes in the same way as for the back piece = 81-83-85-87-89-93 stitches. Continue back and forth with pattern over the middle 75-75-75-81-81-81 stitches, 1 edge stitch in garter stitch on each side and the remaining stitches in stockinette stitch (= 2-3-4-2-3-5 stockinette stitches between the pattern and the edge stitches).
When the piece measures 45-47-48-50-51-53 cm = 17 3/4"-18 1/2"-19"-19 3/4"-20"-21", adjust so the next row is worked from the right side, work as follows: Work as before over the first 30-31-31-32-32-34 stitches, knit over knit and purl over purl for the next 21-21-23-23-25-25 stitches and decrease, at the same time, 6 stitches evenly over the knitted stitches in the large cable (= 21-21-23-23-25-25 stitches decreased to 15-15-17-17-19-19 stitches), place these 15-15-17-17-19-19 stitches on a thread (= neck) and work the last 30-31-31-32-32-34 stitches.
The shoulders are now finished separately. Work back and forth with pattern as before, at the same time, on each row from the neck bind off stitches as follows: Bind off 2 stitches 2 times and 1 stitch 1 time = 25-26-26-27-27-29 stitches. Continue back and forth until the piece measures 48-50-52-54-56-58 cm = 19"-19 3/4"-20 1/2"-21 1/4"-22"-22 3/4" – adjust so the next row is worked from the right side (the armhole now measures 16-17-18-19-20-21 cm = 6 1/4"-6 3/4"-7"-7 1/2"-8"-8 1/4"). Work 1 edge stitch in garter stitch, knit until there is 1 stitch left and, at the same time, decrease 8 stitches evenly spaced over these stitches, 1 edge stitch in garter stitch = 17-18-18-19-19-21 stitches. Bind off. Work the other shoulder in the same way.

RIGHT SLEEVE:
Cast on 46-52-52-58-58-58 stitches with double pointed needles size 4.5 mm = US 7 and Alaska. Knit 1 round. Insert a marker thread at the beginning of the round. Then work rib as follows: (Purl 3, knit 3) over the first 12-18-18-24-24-24 stitches, purl 3, (knit 3, purl 4) over the next 28 stitches, knit 3. Continue this rib in the round for 6 cm = 2 3/8". The next round is worked as follows: Knit 15-21-21-27-27-27 and at the same time decrease 1-5-1-7-7-5 stitches evenly over these stitches, knit over knit and purl over purl for the next 31 stitches and decrease in the different sizes as follows:
Sizes S, M and L: Decrease 1 stitch in each of the purl-4 sections (= 4 stitches decreased).
Sizes XL, XXL and XXXL: Decrease 1 stitch in the 2 middle purled sections (= 2 stitches decreased).
There are now 41-43-47-49-49-51 stitches on the round. Change to double pointed needles size 5.5 mm = US US 9.
Knit 7-8-10-10-10-11 stitches. Insert a marker thread here (= this marks mid-under the sleeve and the new beginning of the round). The marker thread follows your work onwards, and will be used when increasing under the sleeve. Now work pattern as follows: Knit 7-8-10-10-10-11, work A.2 over the next 3 stitches, A.3 (choose diagram for your size) over the next 21-21-21-23-23-23 stitches, A.2 over the next 3 stitches and knit 7-8-10-10-10-11. Continue like this in the round.
When the sleeve measures 11-10-10-7-11-8 cm = 4 3/8"-4"-4"-2 3/4"-4 3/8"-3 1/8", increase 1 stitch on each side of marker thread – read INCREASE TIP. Increase like this every 2-2-2-2-1½-1½ cm = 3/4"-3/4"-3/4"-3/4"-1/2”-1/2” a total of 16-16-16-17-19-21 times = 73-75-79-83-87-93 stitches. Continue working until the sleeve measures 46-45-45-43-43-41 cm = 18"-17 3/4"-17 3/4"-17"-17"-16 1/8" from the cast-on edge.
Now bind off the middle 8-8-10-10-12-12 stitches under the sleeve for the armhole (= 4-4-5-5-6-6 stitches on each side of the marker thread) = 65-67-69-73-75-81 stitches. Continue back and forth with pattern as before and 1 edge stitch in garter stitch on each side. At the beginning of each row bind off stitches for the sleeve cap on each side as follows: Bind off 3 stitches 1-1-2-2-2-2 times, 2 stitches 7-6-5-4-4-5 times and 1 stitch 1-4-4-7-8-9 times (= a total of 18-19-20-21-22-25 stitches bind off on each side) = 29-29-29-31-31-31 stitches. The sleeve measures approx. 9-11-11-13-14-16 cm = 3 1/2"-4 3/8"-4 3/8"-5 1/8"-5 1/2"-6 1/4" from the bind-off stitches. Insert a marker. THE PIECE IS NOW MEASURED FROM HERE.
Continue back and forth with 1 edge stitch in garter stitch on each side until the sleeve measures 10-11-11-12-12-13 cm = 4"-4 3/8"-4 3/8"-4 3/4"-4 3/4"-5 1/8" – adjust so the next row is from the right side. Knit over knit and purl over purl the first 23-23-23-25-25-25 stitches and, at the same time, knit together (2 and 2) the first 14 knitted stitches in A.3, (= 7 stitches decreased), knit the next 2 stitches together (= 1 stitch decreased), work pattern as before over the last 4 stitches = 21-21-21-23-23-23 stitches. Turn and work pattern as before over the first 5 stitches, then purl the remaining stitches. Turn and bind off the first 16-16-16-18-18-18 stitches and insert a marker at the end of row (marker marks which side of the sleeve will later be sewn to the back piece). Then work back and forth with A.2 and 1 edge stitch in garter stitch on each side over the remaining 5 stitches until the piece measures 8-8-8-8-9-9 cm = 3 1/8"-3 1/8"-3 1/8"-3 1/8"-3 1/2"-3 1/2". Bind off. The sleeve measures a total of 73-75-76-77-78-79 cm = 28 3/4"-29 1/2"-29 1/2"-30 3/8"-30 3/4"-31".

LEFT SLEEVE:
Work in the same way as the right sleeve, but when the sleeve cap is finished and the sleeve measures 19-22-22-25-26-29 cm = 7 1/2"-8 3/4"-8 3/4"-9 3/4"-10 1/4"-11 3/8" from the bind-off stitches, work the next row from the right side as follows: Work the first 4 stitches as before, knit 2 together (= 1 stitch decreased), knit over knit and purl over purl the last 23-23-23-25-25-25 stitches and, at the same time knit together (2 and 2) the last 14 knitted stitches in A.3 (= 7 stitches decreased) = 21-21-21-23-23-23 stitches. Turn and bind off the first 16-16-16-18-18-18 stitches and insert a marker at the end of row (marker marks which side of the sleeve will later be sewn to the back piece). Then work back and forth with A.2 and 1 edge stitch in garter stitch on each side over the remaining 5 stitches until the piece measures 8-8-8-8-9-9 cm = 3 1/8"-3 1/8"-3 1/8"-3 1/8"-3 1/2"-3 1/2". Bind off. The sleeve measures a total of 73-75-76-77-78-79 cm = 28 3/4"-29 1/2"-29 1/2"-30 3/8"-30 3/4"-31".

ASSEMBLY:
Sew sleeves to front- and back piece inside 1 edge stitch/bind off edge as follows: Sew one sleeve to back piece by sewing seam from armhole and up along the shoulder to mid back of back piece. Repeat on the other sleeve, and finish by sewing the bind off edges on sleeves (= the last 5 stitches that were bind off on sleeves) mid back. Sew one sleeve to front piece from armhole and up along the shoulder to the neck. Repeat on the other sleeve.
Sew the side seams in the outermost loop of the outermost stitch top down leaving 17 cm = 6 3/4" at the bottom (= split).

DOUBLE NECK:
Knit up 66 to 84 stitches (including the stitches on the thread mid-front) inside the 1 edge stitch, from the right side with Alaska and circular needle size 4.5 mm = US 7. The number of stitches must be divisible by 6. Work rib (= knit 3, purl 3) in the round for 10-11 cm = 4"-4 3/8". Bind off with knit over knit and purl over purl. Fold the neck double to the wrong side and sew down. To avoid the neck being tight and rolling outwards it is important the seam is elastic.

This pattern has been corrected.

Updated online: 17.04.2023
under LEFT SLEEVE (was wrong sts no. in size XL and XXL): Work in the same way as the right sleeve, but when the sleeve cap is finished and the sleeve measures 19-22-22-25-26-29 cm = 7 1/2"-8 3/4"-8 3/4"-9 3/4"-10 1/4"-11 3/8" from the bind-off...

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

symbols = knit from right side, purl from wrong side
symbols = purl from right side, knit from wrong side
symbols = this square has no stitch; go straight to next symbol
symbols = between 2 stitches make 1 yarn over; on the next round knit the yarn over to leave a hole
symbols = knit 3, pass the first stitch over the next 2 so it lies around them (= 1 stitch decreased)
symbols = place 5 stitches on cable needle behind the piece, knit 5, knit 5 from cable needle
symbols = place 5 stitches on cable needle in front of the piece, knit 5, knit 5 from cable needle
diagram
diagram

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

You might also like...

Post a comment to pattern DROPS 217-15

We would love to hear what you have to say about this pattern!

If you want to leave a question, please make sure you select the correct category in the form below, to speed up the answering process. Required fields are marked *.

Comments / Questions (13)

country flag Hanne Boghøj Bendtsen wrote:

I starten af venstre ærme: Kan det tænkes ved str. XL og XXL er skrevet 15 og 16 cm istedet for 25 og 26 cm?

01.04.2023 - 09:40

DROPS Design answered:

Hei Hanne. Ja, her har det vært en tastefeil. Rikitg som du skriver, skal være 25-26 cm i str. XL og XXL. Takk for at du gjorde oss oppmerksom på dette. Vi vil rette dette asap. mvh DROPS Design

17.04.2023 - 08:21

country flag Nicoletta wrote:

Salve,purtroppo ho un’altra domanda riguardo alle maniche. Dalle foto sembrerebbe che il motivo treccia + diagramma A2 debba proseguire fino al collo,dalle spiegazioni sembra che gli ultimi 8 cm debba lavorare solo le 5 maglie del diagramma A2… Ringrazio anticipatamente per la vostra preziosa disponibilità! Cordiali saluti Nicoletta

26.02.2023 - 23:26

DROPS Design answered:

Buonasera Nicoletta, le spiegazioni sono corrette, questa parte verrà poi cucita alle maglie intrecciate sul dietro. Buon lavoro!

08.03.2023 - 20:04

country flag Nicoletta wrote:

Salve,purtroppo ho un’altra domanda riguardo alle maniche. Dalle foto sembrerebbe che il motivo treccia + diagramma A2 debba proseguire fino al collo,dalle spiegazioni sembra che gli ultimi 8 cm debba lavorare solo le 5 maglie del diagramma A2… Ringrazio anticipatamente per la vostra preziosa disponibilità! Cordiali saluti Nicoletta

11.02.2023 - 11:42

DROPS Design answered:

Buonasera Nicoletta, le spiegazioni sono corrette, questa parte verrà poi cucita alle maglie intrecciate sul dietro. Buon lavoro!

08.03.2023 - 20:04

country flag Nicoletta Zonca wrote:

Buongiorno ,ho finito gli scalfi dietro del modello 217-5, le 22 maglie da diminuire, sono tutte sullo stesso ferro?in questo modo finisco le diminuzioni in un'unica volta...non riesco a capire questa parte...ringrazio anticipatamente per la vostra disponibilità. Buona serata

22.01.2023 - 21:30

DROPS Design answered:

Buonasera Nicoletta, si, le 22 maglie si diminuiscono su un ferro solo. Buon lavoro!

23.01.2023 - 21:57

country flag Gabriele Bauer wrote:

Leider ist kein Foto des Rückteils zu sehen. Das macht es schwierig zu verstehen, warum man an jedem Ärmel 9 cm mit 5 Maschen höher strickt und diese wohl dann am Rückteil oben annäht. Warum macht man das? Dann sind Rückansicht und Vorderansicht ja verschieden???

30.11.2022 - 15:27

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Frau Bauer, die Ärmel werden unterschiedlich abgekettet damit sie gegen Rückenteil länger werden so ist der Hals höher am Rückenteil als am Vorderteil. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

30.11.2022 - 17:04

country flag Gabriele Bauer wrote:

Hallo, auf dem Foto sind die Ärmel umgeschlagen, also sind sie wohl extra lang in der Anleitung. Ich möchte das so nicht, sondern normal lange Ärmel. Wo und wieviel soll ich kürzen bei XXL? Danke sehr.

17.11.2022 - 11:26

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Frau Bauer, je nach gewünschte Armlänger können Sie mit der Hilfe der Maßskizze die Ärmellänge anpassen - hier lesen Sie mehr über die Maßskizze. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

17.11.2022 - 16:07

country flag Olympe wrote:

Bonjour, modèle 217-15. Je ne comprends pas : diagramme A2, 2ème rang : carré noir « ce carré n’est pas une maille, passer directement au symbole suivant ». Que dois-je faire avec le carré noir ??? Merci

26.06.2022 - 17:47

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Olympe, lorsque vous avez tricoté le 1er rang de A.2, il vous reste 2 mailles dans A.2, vous tricotez ces 2 mailles comme dans le diagramme (il n'y a que 2 mailes, pas 3, d'où le carré noir), au rang suivant, faites 1 jeté entre ces 2 mailles (= vous avez de nouveau 3 mailles). Bon tricot!

27.06.2022 - 08:50

country flag Yo wrote:

Hi, dank voor de mooie patronen. Zouden jullie willen overwegen om foto's van de achterkant van truien toe te voegen? Ik kijk zowel naar de beschrijving als de foto, om het patroon te begrijpen. Het zou mij dus erg helpen. Groet.

04.05.2022 - 18:35

DROPS Design answered:

Dag Yo,

Bedankt voor je tip, dit is inderdaad een goed idee. Ik zal het doorgeven aan de ontwerpafdeling.

09.05.2022 - 17:22

country flag Sylvie GOUEY wrote:

Bonjour, Auriez vous une vidéo qui permettrait de voir les différentes coutures pour réaliser l'assemblage ainsi qu'un schéma qui permettrait de voir l'arrière du pull. Je vous remercie. Cordialement

03.02.2021 - 15:40

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Gouey, nous n'avons rien de spécifique à ce modèle, toutefois, le schéma montre l'assemblage = les pointillés correspondent aux coutures des manches le long du devant, dans le dos, les coutures sont similaires: vous les assemblez le long des emmanchures dos et le long des mailles rabattues, tout comme pour le devant, mais dans le dos vous allez assembler les mailles rabattues des mailles ensemble. Bon assemblage!

04.02.2021 - 08:54

country flag Sylvie GOUEY wrote:

Bonsoir, A la fin de l'explication de la manche droite, merci de me confirmer qu'il faut continuer avec A2 et deux mailles lisières pendant 8 cm ? Cette partie est elle bien à coudre à l'arrière du cou jusqu'au milieu du dos ? Merci pour votre réponse. Cordialement.

02.02.2021 - 19:42

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Gouey, tout à fait - cette partie est ensuite assemblée le long des mailles rabattues du dos et ces 16 à 18 mailles rabattues seront assemblées aux 16-18 dernières mailles rabattues à la fin de la manche gauche. Bon tricot!

03.02.2021 - 08:38