DROPS Karisma
DROPS Karisma
 100% Wool
from 3.00 $ /50g
needles
DROPS Needles & Hooks
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 21.00$.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

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  5. 37
  6. 2

North Star Jacket

Knitted jacket for children in DROPS Karisma. The piece is worked top down with round yoke and Nordic pattern. Sizes 2 – 12 years.

DROPS Children 37-2
DROPS Design: Pattern no u-088-bn
Yarn group B
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SIZES:
2 - 3/4 - 5/6 - 7/8 - 9/10 - 11/12 years
The size is approx. equivalent to the child’s height in cm:
92 - 98/104 - 110/116 - 122/128 - 134/140 - 146/152
The size is approx. equivalent to the child’s height in feet:
3ft – 3ft3/3ft5 – 3ft7/3ft9 – 4ft/4ft2 – 4ft5/4ft7 – 4ft9/4ft12

Finished measurements:
Chest measurements: 66-70-72-76-80-84 cm = 26"-27½"-28⅜"-30"-31½"-33"
Full length: 36-40-44-48-52-56 cm = 14¼"-15¾"-17¼"-19"-20½"-22"

All measurements in charts are in cm.

MATERIALS:
DROPS KARISMA from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group B)
250-250-250-300-300-350 g color 16, dark grey
100-100-100-100-100-150 g color 01, off white

KNITTING GAUGE:
21 stitches in width and 28 rows in height with stockinette stitch and Nordic pattern = 10 x 10 cm = 4" x 4".

NEEDLES:
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 4 MM = US 6.
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 4 MM = US 6: Length 60 cm = 24" or 80 cm = 32" for stockinette stitch.
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 3 MM = US 2,5.
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 3 MM = US 2,5: Length 60 cm = 24" or 80 cm = 32" for rib.
Needle size is only a guide. If you get too many stitches on 10 cm = 4", change to a larger needle size. If you get too few stitches on 10 cm = 4", change to a smaller needle size.

DROPS WOOD BUTTONS, Oak NO 503: 6-6-6-7-7-7 items.

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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More like this:
Children Children Cardigans Children Nordic Cardigansassembly free colorwork nordic round neck round yoke top down
DROPS Karisma
DROPS Karisma
 100% Wool
from 3.00 $ /50g
needles
DROPS Needles & Hooks
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 21.00$.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

Comments (4)

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
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EXPLANATIONS FOR THE PATTERN:

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RIDGE/GARTER STITCH (worked back and forth):
Knit all rows.
1 ridge in height = Knit 2 rows.

BUTTONHOLE ON NECK:
When the neck measures 1½ to 2 cm = 1/2 to ¾" work 1 buttonhole on the right-hand side (when the garment is worn).
Work as follows, from the right side and when there are 5 stitches left on the row: Make 1 yarn over, purl 2 together, knit 2 and finish with 1 edge stitch in garter stitch. On the next row (wrong side) knit the yarn over to leave a hole.

INCREASE TIP-1 (evenly spaced):
To work out how to increase evenly, count the total number of stitches on the needle (e.g. 74 stitches) minus edge/band stitches (e.g. 2 stitches) and divide the remaining stitches by the number of increases to be made (e.g. 25) = 2.9.
In this example, increase by making 1 yarn over after approx. each 3rd stitch. Do not increase over the edge stitches On the next row work the yarn overs twisted to avoid holes.

PATTERN:
See diagrams A.1 to A.4. Choose diagram for your size. The whole pattern is worked in stockinette stitch.

KNITTING TIP:
To avoid the garment losing its elasticity when working the pattern, it is important the strands at the back are not tight. Increase a needle size when working pattern if this is a problem.
If the knitting gauge is not correct in height and your work is too tight, the garment will be too short and the armholes too small – to adjust for this you can work 1 extra round in the one-colored sections.
If your work is too loose, the garment will be too long and the armholes too big; to adjust for this, you can work 1 round less in the one-colored sections.

DECREASE TIP (for mid under sleeves):
Decrease 1 stitch on each side of the marker-stitch as follows (the 5 next stitches are worked with dark grey): Work until there are 2 stitches left before the marker-stitch, knit 2 together, knit the marker-stitch, knit 2 twisted together (= 2 stitches decreased).

BINDING-OFF TIP:
To avoid the bind-off edge being tight you can bind off with a larger size needle. If the edge is still tight, make 1 yarn over after approx. each 4th stitch at the same time as binding off and the yarn overs are bind off as normal stitches.

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START THE PIECE HERE:

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JACKET – SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE.
The neck and yoke are worked back and forth with circular needle, from mid front and top down. The band-stitches are bind off and the rest of the yoke continues back and forth with 1 edge stitch on each side. The yoke is divided for the body and sleeves and the body continued back and forth with circular needle. The sleeves are worked in the round with double pointed needles/short circular needle, top down.

NECK:
Cast on 84-84-88-88-92-92 stitches (including 5 band stitches on each side) with circular needle size 3 mm = US 2,5 and dark grey. Purl 1 row (= wrong side).
The next row is worked as follows: 1 edge stitch in GARTER STITCH – read description above, * knit 2, purl 2 *, work from *-* until there are 3 stitches left on the row, knit 2 and finish with 1 edge stitch in garter stitch. Continue this rib for 3 cm = 1⅛" – remember the BUTTONHOLE on the right-hand side – read description above.
When the rib is finished, work the next row from the right side as follows:
Bind off the first 5 stitches (the bands will be sewn on here later), knit the next 74-74-78-78-82-82 stitches and increase 25-29-29-33-33-37 stitches evenly spaced over these stitches – read INCREASE TIP, then work rib as before over the next 4 stitches and finish with 1 edge stitch in garter stitch.
Change to circular needle size 4 mm = US 6. Turn the piece, bind off the first 5 stitches, purl until there is 1 stitch left on the row (yarn overs purled twisted) and finish with 1 edge stitch in garter stitch = 99-103-107-111-115-119 stitches on the needle.
Insert 1 marker after the edge stitch at the beginning of the row; the yoke will be measured from this marker!

YOKE:
Work 0-0-2-0-2-4 rows of stockinette stitch with dark grey and with 1 edge stitch in garter stitch on each side.
Read KNITTING TIP and then work the next row from the right side as follows:
1 edge stitch in garter stitch, work A.1 until there are 2 stitches left on the row (= 24-25-26-27-28-29 repeats of 4 stitches), work the first stitch in A.1 (so the pattern starts and ends in the same way on both front pieces) and finish with 1 edge stitch in garter stitch.
Continue this pattern. The edge stitches are worked in the same color as the first/last stitch in the pattern. REMEMBER THE KNITTING GAUGE!
AT THE SAME TIME on each row marked with an arrow in A.1, increase stitches evenly as described below – remember INCREASE TIP:
Arrow-1: Increase 30-32-34-36-38-40 stitches evenly spaced = 129-135-141-147-153-159 stitches (there is now room 21-22-23-24-25-26 repeats of A.1 with 6 stitches).
Arrow-2: Increase 42-36-44-38-46-40 stitches evenly spaced = 171-171-185-185-199-199 stitches (there is now room for 12-12-13-13-14-14 repeats of A.1 with 14 stitches).
Arrow-3: increase 28-36-34-38-36-44 stitches evenly spaced = 199-207-219-223-235-243 stitches (there is now room 49-51-54-55-58-60 repeats of A.1 with 4 stitches).
Arrow-4: Increase 16-20-20-20-20-24 stitches evenly spaced = 215-227-239-243-255-267 stitches (there is now room l 53-56-59-60-63-66 repeats of A.1 with 4 stitches).
Continue working until there is 1 row left in A.1.
The piece measures approx. 15-15-16-17-18-19 cm = 6"-6"-6¼"-6¾"-7"-7½" from the marker on the neck.
On the last row in A.1 divide the yoke for the body and sleeves, from the wrong side as follows:
Work 32-34-36-37-39-41 stitches as before (= front piece), place the next 44-46-48-48-50-52 stitches on 1 thread for the sleeve, cast on 6-6-6-8-8-8 new stitches on the needle (= in side under sleeve), work 63-67-71-73-77-81 stitches as before (= back piece), place the next 44-46-48-48-50-52 stitches on 1 thread for the sleeve, cast on 6-6-6-8-8-8 new stitches on the needle (= in side under sleeve) and work the remaining 32-34-36-37-39-41 stitches as before (= front piece). Body and sleeves are finished separately.
THE PIECE IS NOW MEASURED FROM HERE!

BODY:
= 139-147-155-163-171-179 stitches.
The first row is worked as follows from the right side (with off-white): 1 edge stitch in garter stitch, work A.2 until there are 2 stitches left on the row, work the first stitch in A.2 and finish with 1 edge stitch in garter stitch.
Continue A.2 back and forth like this. AT THE SAME TIME on the row marked with arrow-5 in A.2, increase 8-0-4-8-0-4 stitches evenly spaced = 147-147-159-171-171-183 stitches.
When A.2 has been completed, work A.3 in the same way (there is room for 24-24-26-28-28-30 repeats of A.3 with 6 stitches).
A.3 is repeated in height until the piece measures 12-16-19-19-22-25 cm = 4¾"-6¼"-7½"-7½"-8¾"-9¾" from the division in all sizes; there is approx. 7-7-7-10-10-10 cm = 2¾"-2¾"-2¾"-4"-4"-4" left to finished length, you can try the jacket on and work to desired length.
The next row is worked as follows from the right side: 1 edge stitch in garter stitch, work A.4 until there are 2 stitches left on the row (= 36-36-39-42-42-45 repeats of A.4 with 4 stitches), work the first stitch in A.4 and finish with 1 edge stitch in garter stitch.
Continue like this until A.4 has been completed.
Knit 1 row from the right side with dark grey and increase 33-33-33-37-37-37 stitches evenly spaced = 180-180-192-208-208-220 stitches. This is done to avoid the rib being tight.
Change to circular needle size 3 mm = US 2,5. The first row is worked as follows from the wrong side: 1 edge stitch in garter stitch, * purl 2, knit 2 *, work from *-* until there are 3 stitches left on the row, purl 2 and finish with 1 edge stitch in garter stitch.
Continue this rib for 3-3-3-4-4-4 cm = 1⅛"-1⅛"-1⅛"-1½"-1½"-1½". Bind off with garter stitch over garter stitch, knit over knit and purl over purl – read BINDING-OFF TIP!

SLEEVE:
Place the 44-46-48-48-50-52 stitches from the thread on the one side of the piece on double pointed needles size 4 MM = US 6 and knit up 1 stitch in each of the 6-6-6-8-8-8 stitches cast on under the sleeve = 50-52-54-56-58-60 stitches. Insert 2 markers in
the piece at the same time as working the last row in A.1: Start mid under the sleeve in the middle of the 6-6-6-8-8-8 stitches, work the first stitch after mid under the sleeve, and insert 1 marker in this stitch, work 24-25-26-27-28-29 stitches, work the next stitch and
insert 1 marker in this stitch, and work the remaining 24-25-26-27-28-29 stitches on the round. Allow the markers to follow your work onwards; the one under the sleeve is used when decreasing and the one on top of the sleeve will be used when starting the pattern. Work PATTERN at the same time as you DECREASE under the sleeve as described below:


PATTERN:
Start the round mid under the sleeve in the stitch before the first marker-stitch and work A.2 in the round – count out from the middle of the sleeve to find where the pattern starts – the second marker-stitch on top of the sleeve should match the stitch marked with a star in A.2, and you will decrease under the sleeve at the same time as you work pattern.
When A.2 has been completed, work A.3 in the same way. A.3 is repeated in height until the sleeve measures 12-17-21-23-26-30 cm = 4¾"-6¾"-8¼"-9"-10¼"-11¾", but finish after a round of «spots».
Now work the whole of A.4.

DECREASE:
At the same time, when the sleeve measures 3 cm = 1⅛" from the division in all sizes, decrease 2 stitches mid under the sleeve – read DECREASE TIP. Decrease like this every 2-2½-3-4-4½-4½ cm = ¾"-⅞"-1⅛"-1½"-1¾"-1¾" a total of 6-7-7-7-7-8 times.
When A.4 has been completed and the decreases are finished, there are 38-38-40-42-44-44 stitches left on the needles and the sleeve measures approx. 16-21-25-29-32-36 cm = 6¼"-8¼"-9¾"-11⅜"-12½"-14¼" from the division. The rest of the sleeve is worked with dark grey.
Knit 1 round where you increase 6-6-8-6-8-8 stitches evenly spaced = 44-44-48-48-52-52 stitches. Change to double pointed needles size 3 mm = US 2,5 and work rib (= knit 2 / purl 2) for 3-3-3-4-4-4 cm = 1⅛"-1⅛"-1⅛"-1½"-1½"-1½". Bind off with knit over knit and purl over purl – remember BINDING-OFF TIP. The sleeve measures approx. 19-24-28-33-36-40 cm = 7½"-9½"-11"-13"-14¼"-15¾" from the division.
Work the other sleeve in the same way.

LEFT BAND:
Knit up 80-92-100-112-120-132 stitches from the right side, along the edge of the left front piece and inside the 1 edge stitch using circular needle size 3 mm = US 2,5 and dark grey (the number of stitches should be divisible by 4). The first row is worked as follows from the wrong side: 1 edge stitch in garter stitch, * purl 2, knit 2 *, work from *-* until there are 3 stitches left on the row, purl 2 and finish with 1 edge stitch in garter stitch. Continue this rib for 2½ to 3 cm = ⅞" to 1⅛" – adjust so the band is the same width as the 5 stitches which were bind off on the neck. Bind off with knit over knit and purl over purl.

RIGHT BAND:
Work in the same way as the left band but after 1 to 1½ cm = ⅜" to ½", work 5-5-5-6-6-6 buttonholes evenly spaced. The bottom buttonhole should be approx. 2 to 3 cm = ¾" to 1⅛" from the bottom edge. It is neatest to work the buttonholes in a purled section by making 1 yarn over and purling 2 together.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew the neck edge neatly to the edge of the bands, with the seam on the wrong side.
Sew the buttons onto the left band.

This pattern has been corrected.

Updated online: 25.03.2021
SLEEVE: ... Insert 2 markers in the piece at the same time as working the last row in A.1: Start mid under the sleeve in the middle of the 6-6-6-8-8-8 stitches, work the first stitch after mid under the sleeve, and insert 1 marker in this stitch, work 24-25-26-27-28-29 stitches, work the next stitch and insert 1 marker in this stitch, and work the remaining 24-25-26-27-28-29 stitches on the round...

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

symbols = off white
symbols = dark grey
symbols = increase-row
symbols = mid-stitch
diagram
diagram
diagram
© 1982-2024 DROPS Design A/S We reserve all rights. This document, including all its sub-sections, has copyrights.
What can you do with our patterns? You can share DROPS patterns online, using the pattern original picture, materials, name and number. But you are NOT ALLOWED to reproduce the complete pattern digitally in any way. Yarn stores are welcome to use the DROPS pattern database to promote the sale of our assortment. You can print out our patterns, make as many copies as you’d like. The only thing we ask is that you don't make any changes / additions to the original printed document. And that the patterns according to the DROPS philosophy are given out to the consumers for free. Editorials that wish to publish our patterns in printed books or magazines can contact us for more information. The sale of garments based on DROPS patterns is permitted as long as they are sold as single items or per order. Further commercial use of the patterns is not permitted. It has to be clearly stated that the garment is made based on a design from DROPS DESIGN. The use of clothing labels of which DROPS DESIGN forms part is conditioned by the inclusion of the following text: “A DROPS DESIGN made by …..”. The use of DROPS photos for marketing purposes/sales is only permitted in connection with the use/sale of DROPS products. The photos may not be cut or edited and the logo should be clearly visible.
We reserve the right to withdraw the permission for use of our patterns at any time, notwithstanding the reason.

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.  

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (4)

country flag Valerie Robertson wrote:

When working the body pattern A3 the off white yarn ends up being at the opposite side from where you need to use it next. Do you have to cut the yarn with each pattern row and end up with a lot of ends to weave in or is it better to bring the off white yarn back along the next row after you use it? Or is there a better way?

26.04.2024 - 16:43

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Valerie, you could cut the thread or carry it back, but since off white is used in very small amounts if you carry the yarn you will waste a lot of off white yarn. Happy knitting!

28.04.2024 - 22:50

country flag Jo Busby wrote:

I am trying to print this pattern but the picture and pattern diagrams are not downloading or printing. Help please.

27.09.2021 - 20:27

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Jo, it must have been a temporary problem, as it works just fine in Europe now. Can you please try again? Thank you for your patience.

27.09.2021 - 20:53

country flag Lis-Beth Engström wrote:

Hur ska jag fästa alla lösa vita trådar vid framkanten så att det blir snyggt?

04.01.2021 - 17:45

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Lis-Beth, Her ser du forskellige måder at gøre det på. Vælg den som du synes er pænest: Fästa trådar

08.01.2021 - 11:12

country flag Svanhove wrote:

Can we knit it in round, with a steek method ? And how much yarn would I need ? Regards

11.11.2020 - 09:42

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Mrs Svanhove, you can knit it in the round if you rather like to, but we unfortunately are not able to know how much yarn you would need; you might have to buy at least one extra ball of the base colour to be sure you will have enough. Happy knitting!

12.11.2020 - 08:40

North Star Jacket



Knitted jacket for children in DROPS Karisma. The piece is worked top down with round yoke and Nordic pattern. Sizes 2 – 12 years.

DROPS Children 37-2
DROPS Design: Pattern no u-088-bn
Yarn group B
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SIZES:
2 - 3/4 - 5/6 - 7/8 - 9/10 - 11/12 years
The size is approx. equivalent to the child’s height in cm:
92 - 98/104 - 110/116 - 122/128 - 134/140 - 146/152
The size is approx. equivalent to the child’s height in feet:
3ft – 3ft3/3ft5 – 3ft7/3ft9 – 4ft/4ft2 – 4ft5/4ft7 – 4ft9/4ft12

Finished measurements:
Chest measurements: 66-70-72-76-80-84 cm = 26"-27½"-28⅜"-30"-31½"-33"
Full length: 36-40-44-48-52-56 cm = 14¼"-15¾"-17¼"-19"-20½"-22"

All measurements in charts are in cm.

MATERIALS:
DROPS KARISMA from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group B)
250-250-250-300-300-350 g color 16, dark grey
100-100-100-100-100-150 g color 01, off white

KNITTING GAUGE:
21 stitches in width and 28 rows in height with stockinette stitch and Nordic pattern = 10 x 10 cm = 4" x 4".

NEEDLES:
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 4 MM = US 6.
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 4 MM = US 6: Length 60 cm = 24" or 80 cm = 32" for stockinette stitch.
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 3 MM = US 2,5.
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 3 MM = US 2,5: Length 60 cm = 24" or 80 cm = 32" for rib.
Needle size is only a guide. If you get too many stitches on 10 cm = 4", change to a larger needle size. If you get too few stitches on 10 cm = 4", change to a smaller needle size.

DROPS WOOD BUTTONS, Oak NO 503: 6-6-6-7-7-7 items.

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EXPLANATIONS FOR THE PATTERN:

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RIDGE/GARTER STITCH (worked back and forth):
Knit all rows.
1 ridge in height = Knit 2 rows.

BUTTONHOLE ON NECK:
When the neck measures 1½ to 2 cm = 1/2 to ¾" work 1 buttonhole on the right-hand side (when the garment is worn).
Work as follows, from the right side and when there are 5 stitches left on the row: Make 1 yarn over, purl 2 together, knit 2 and finish with 1 edge stitch in garter stitch. On the next row (wrong side) knit the yarn over to leave a hole.

INCREASE TIP-1 (evenly spaced):
To work out how to increase evenly, count the total number of stitches on the needle (e.g. 74 stitches) minus edge/band stitches (e.g. 2 stitches) and divide the remaining stitches by the number of increases to be made (e.g. 25) = 2.9.
In this example, increase by making 1 yarn over after approx. each 3rd stitch. Do not increase over the edge stitches On the next row work the yarn overs twisted to avoid holes.

PATTERN:
See diagrams A.1 to A.4. Choose diagram for your size. The whole pattern is worked in stockinette stitch.

KNITTING TIP:
To avoid the garment losing its elasticity when working the pattern, it is important the strands at the back are not tight. Increase a needle size when working pattern if this is a problem.
If the knitting gauge is not correct in height and your work is too tight, the garment will be too short and the armholes too small – to adjust for this you can work 1 extra round in the one-colored sections.
If your work is too loose, the garment will be too long and the armholes too big; to adjust for this, you can work 1 round less in the one-colored sections.

DECREASE TIP (for mid under sleeves):
Decrease 1 stitch on each side of the marker-stitch as follows (the 5 next stitches are worked with dark grey): Work until there are 2 stitches left before the marker-stitch, knit 2 together, knit the marker-stitch, knit 2 twisted together (= 2 stitches decreased).

BINDING-OFF TIP:
To avoid the bind-off edge being tight you can bind off with a larger size needle. If the edge is still tight, make 1 yarn over after approx. each 4th stitch at the same time as binding off and the yarn overs are bind off as normal stitches.

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START THE PIECE HERE:

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JACKET – SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE.
The neck and yoke are worked back and forth with circular needle, from mid front and top down. The band-stitches are bind off and the rest of the yoke continues back and forth with 1 edge stitch on each side. The yoke is divided for the body and sleeves and the body continued back and forth with circular needle. The sleeves are worked in the round with double pointed needles/short circular needle, top down.

NECK:
Cast on 84-84-88-88-92-92 stitches (including 5 band stitches on each side) with circular needle size 3 mm = US 2,5 and dark grey. Purl 1 row (= wrong side).
The next row is worked as follows: 1 edge stitch in GARTER STITCH – read description above, * knit 2, purl 2 *, work from *-* until there are 3 stitches left on the row, knit 2 and finish with 1 edge stitch in garter stitch. Continue this rib for 3 cm = 1⅛" – remember the BUTTONHOLE on the right-hand side – read description above.
When the rib is finished, work the next row from the right side as follows:
Bind off the first 5 stitches (the bands will be sewn on here later), knit the next 74-74-78-78-82-82 stitches and increase 25-29-29-33-33-37 stitches evenly spaced over these stitches – read INCREASE TIP, then work rib as before over the next 4 stitches and finish with 1 edge stitch in garter stitch.
Change to circular needle size 4 mm = US 6. Turn the piece, bind off the first 5 stitches, purl until there is 1 stitch left on the row (yarn overs purled twisted) and finish with 1 edge stitch in garter stitch = 99-103-107-111-115-119 stitches on the needle.
Insert 1 marker after the edge stitch at the beginning of the row; the yoke will be measured from this marker!

YOKE:
Work 0-0-2-0-2-4 rows of stockinette stitch with dark grey and with 1 edge stitch in garter stitch on each side.
Read KNITTING TIP and then work the next row from the right side as follows:
1 edge stitch in garter stitch, work A.1 until there are 2 stitches left on the row (= 24-25-26-27-28-29 repeats of 4 stitches), work the first stitch in A.1 (so the pattern starts and ends in the same way on both front pieces) and finish with 1 edge stitch in garter stitch.
Continue this pattern. The edge stitches are worked in the same color as the first/last stitch in the pattern. REMEMBER THE KNITTING GAUGE!
AT THE SAME TIME on each row marked with an arrow in A.1, increase stitches evenly as described below – remember INCREASE TIP:
Arrow-1: Increase 30-32-34-36-38-40 stitches evenly spaced = 129-135-141-147-153-159 stitches (there is now room 21-22-23-24-25-26 repeats of A.1 with 6 stitches).
Arrow-2: Increase 42-36-44-38-46-40 stitches evenly spaced = 171-171-185-185-199-199 stitches (there is now room for 12-12-13-13-14-14 repeats of A.1 with 14 stitches).
Arrow-3: increase 28-36-34-38-36-44 stitches evenly spaced = 199-207-219-223-235-243 stitches (there is now room 49-51-54-55-58-60 repeats of A.1 with 4 stitches).
Arrow-4: Increase 16-20-20-20-20-24 stitches evenly spaced = 215-227-239-243-255-267 stitches (there is now room l 53-56-59-60-63-66 repeats of A.1 with 4 stitches).
Continue working until there is 1 row left in A.1.
The piece measures approx. 15-15-16-17-18-19 cm = 6"-6"-6¼"-6¾"-7"-7½" from the marker on the neck.
On the last row in A.1 divide the yoke for the body and sleeves, from the wrong side as follows:
Work 32-34-36-37-39-41 stitches as before (= front piece), place the next 44-46-48-48-50-52 stitches on 1 thread for the sleeve, cast on 6-6-6-8-8-8 new stitches on the needle (= in side under sleeve), work 63-67-71-73-77-81 stitches as before (= back piece), place the next 44-46-48-48-50-52 stitches on 1 thread for the sleeve, cast on 6-6-6-8-8-8 new stitches on the needle (= in side under sleeve) and work the remaining 32-34-36-37-39-41 stitches as before (= front piece). Body and sleeves are finished separately.
THE PIECE IS NOW MEASURED FROM HERE!

BODY:
= 139-147-155-163-171-179 stitches.
The first row is worked as follows from the right side (with off-white): 1 edge stitch in garter stitch, work A.2 until there are 2 stitches left on the row, work the first stitch in A.2 and finish with 1 edge stitch in garter stitch.
Continue A.2 back and forth like this. AT THE SAME TIME on the row marked with arrow-5 in A.2, increase 8-0-4-8-0-4 stitches evenly spaced = 147-147-159-171-171-183 stitches.
When A.2 has been completed, work A.3 in the same way (there is room for 24-24-26-28-28-30 repeats of A.3 with 6 stitches).
A.3 is repeated in height until the piece measures 12-16-19-19-22-25 cm = 4¾"-6¼"-7½"-7½"-8¾"-9¾" from the division in all sizes; there is approx. 7-7-7-10-10-10 cm = 2¾"-2¾"-2¾"-4"-4"-4" left to finished length, you can try the jacket on and work to desired length.
The next row is worked as follows from the right side: 1 edge stitch in garter stitch, work A.4 until there are 2 stitches left on the row (= 36-36-39-42-42-45 repeats of A.4 with 4 stitches), work the first stitch in A.4 and finish with 1 edge stitch in garter stitch.
Continue like this until A.4 has been completed.
Knit 1 row from the right side with dark grey and increase 33-33-33-37-37-37 stitches evenly spaced = 180-180-192-208-208-220 stitches. This is done to avoid the rib being tight.
Change to circular needle size 3 mm = US 2,5. The first row is worked as follows from the wrong side: 1 edge stitch in garter stitch, * purl 2, knit 2 *, work from *-* until there are 3 stitches left on the row, purl 2 and finish with 1 edge stitch in garter stitch.
Continue this rib for 3-3-3-4-4-4 cm = 1⅛"-1⅛"-1⅛"-1½"-1½"-1½". Bind off with garter stitch over garter stitch, knit over knit and purl over purl – read BINDING-OFF TIP!

SLEEVE:
Place the 44-46-48-48-50-52 stitches from the thread on the one side of the piece on double pointed needles size 4 MM = US 6 and knit up 1 stitch in each of the 6-6-6-8-8-8 stitches cast on under the sleeve = 50-52-54-56-58-60 stitches. Insert 2 markers in
the piece at the same time as working the last row in A.1: Start mid under the sleeve in the middle of the 6-6-6-8-8-8 stitches, work the first stitch after mid under the sleeve, and insert 1 marker in this stitch, work 24-25-26-27-28-29 stitches, work the next stitch and
insert 1 marker in this stitch, and work the remaining 24-25-26-27-28-29 stitches on the round. Allow the markers to follow your work onwards; the one under the sleeve is used when decreasing and the one on top of the sleeve will be used when starting the pattern. Work PATTERN at the same time as you DECREASE under the sleeve as described below:


PATTERN:
Start the round mid under the sleeve in the stitch before the first marker-stitch and work A.2 in the round – count out from the middle of the sleeve to find where the pattern starts – the second marker-stitch on top of the sleeve should match the stitch marked with a star in A.2, and you will decrease under the sleeve at the same time as you work pattern.
When A.2 has been completed, work A.3 in the same way. A.3 is repeated in height until the sleeve measures 12-17-21-23-26-30 cm = 4¾"-6¾"-8¼"-9"-10¼"-11¾", but finish after a round of «spots».
Now work the whole of A.4.

DECREASE:
At the same time, when the sleeve measures 3 cm = 1⅛" from the division in all sizes, decrease 2 stitches mid under the sleeve – read DECREASE TIP. Decrease like this every 2-2½-3-4-4½-4½ cm = ¾"-⅞"-1⅛"-1½"-1¾"-1¾" a total of 6-7-7-7-7-8 times.
When A.4 has been completed and the decreases are finished, there are 38-38-40-42-44-44 stitches left on the needles and the sleeve measures approx. 16-21-25-29-32-36 cm = 6¼"-8¼"-9¾"-11⅜"-12½"-14¼" from the division. The rest of the sleeve is worked with dark grey.
Knit 1 round where you increase 6-6-8-6-8-8 stitches evenly spaced = 44-44-48-48-52-52 stitches. Change to double pointed needles size 3 mm = US 2,5 and work rib (= knit 2 / purl 2) for 3-3-3-4-4-4 cm = 1⅛"-1⅛"-1⅛"-1½"-1½"-1½". Bind off with knit over knit and purl over purl – remember BINDING-OFF TIP. The sleeve measures approx. 19-24-28-33-36-40 cm = 7½"-9½"-11"-13"-14¼"-15¾" from the division.
Work the other sleeve in the same way.

LEFT BAND:
Knit up 80-92-100-112-120-132 stitches from the right side, along the edge of the left front piece and inside the 1 edge stitch using circular needle size 3 mm = US 2,5 and dark grey (the number of stitches should be divisible by 4). The first row is worked as follows from the wrong side: 1 edge stitch in garter stitch, * purl 2, knit 2 *, work from *-* until there are 3 stitches left on the row, purl 2 and finish with 1 edge stitch in garter stitch. Continue this rib for 2½ to 3 cm = ⅞" to 1⅛" – adjust so the band is the same width as the 5 stitches which were bind off on the neck. Bind off with knit over knit and purl over purl.

RIGHT BAND:
Work in the same way as the left band but after 1 to 1½ cm = ⅜" to ½", work 5-5-5-6-6-6 buttonholes evenly spaced. The bottom buttonhole should be approx. 2 to 3 cm = ¾" to 1⅛" from the bottom edge. It is neatest to work the buttonholes in a purled section by making 1 yarn over and purling 2 together.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew the neck edge neatly to the edge of the bands, with the seam on the wrong side.
Sew the buttons onto the left band.

Diagram explanations
symbol = off white
symbol = dark grey
symbol = increase-row
symbol = mid-stitch

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