DROPS Karisma
DROPS Karisma
100% Wool
from 3.00 $ /50g
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 30.00$. Read more.

Wild Mint Cardigan

Knitted jacket in DROPS Karisma. The piece is worked top down with double neck, round yoke and textured pattern. Sizes S - XXXL.

DROPS 215-15
DROPS Design: Pattern no u-901
Yarn group B
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SIZES:
S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL
Finished measurements:
Chest measurements: 88-96-104-114-126-138 cm = 34 5/8”-37 3/4”-41”-45”-49 1/2”-54 1/4”
Full length: 52-54-56-58-60-62 cm = 20 1/2"-21 1/4"-22"-22 3/4"-23 5/8"-24 3/8"

All measurements in charts are in cm.
MATERIALS:
DROPS KARISMA from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group B)
500-550-600-650-750-800 g color 69, light grey green

KNITTING GAUGE:
21 stitches in width and 28 rows in height in stockinette stitch = 10 x 10 cm = 4” x 4”.

NEEDLES:
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 4 MM = US 6.
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 4 MM = US 6: Length 40 cm = 16” and 60 cm = 24” or 80 cm = 32” for stockinette stitch.
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 3 MM = US 2,5.
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 3 MM = US 2,5: Length 60 cm = 24” and 80 cm = 32” for rib.
DROPS CABLE NEEDLE – for cables.
Needle size is only a guide. If you get too many stitches on 10 cm = 4”, change to a larger needle size. If you get too few stitches on 10 cm = 4”, change to a smaller needle size.

DROPS BUTTONS, Marble NO 629: 7-7-7-8-8-8 items.

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Knitting tension – See how to measure it and why here
Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Karisma
DROPS Karisma
100% Wool
from 3.00 $ /50g
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 30.00$. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
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EXPLANATIONS FOR THE PATTERN:

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RIDGE/GARTER STITCH (worked back and forth):
Knit all rows.
1 ridge in height = Knit 2 rows.

BUTTONHOLE (for the 2 buttonholes on the neck):
Work buttonholes on the right band (when the garment is worn). Work from the right side when there are 3 stitches left on the row as follows: Make 1 yarn over, knit 2 together and knit 1. On the next row (wrong side) knit the yarn over to leave a hole.

PATTERN:
See diagrams A.1 and A.2. Choose diagram for your size (applies to A.1).

INCREASE TIP-1 (evenly spaced):
To work out how to increase evenly, count the total number of stitches on the needle (e.g. 95 stitches) minus edge stitches (e.g. 2 stitches) and divide the remaining stitches by the number of increases to be made (e.g. 32) = 2.9.
In this example, increase by making 1 yarn over after approx. each 3rd stitch. Do not increase on edge stitches. On the next row work the yarn overs twisted to avoid holes.

INCREASE TIP-2 (for sides of body):
All increases are worked from the right side!
Work until there is 1 stitch left before A.2, make 1 yarn over, work 1 stitch in stockinette stitch, work A.2 (= 9 stitches), 1 stitch in stockinette stitch and make 1 yarn over (= 2 stitches increased in the side and 4 stitches increased on the row). On the next row (wrong side) purl the yarn overs twisted to avoid holes. Then work the new stitches in stockinette stitch.

DECREASE TIP (for mid under sleeve):
Decrease 1 stitch on either side of A.2 under the sleeve as follows: Work A.2 as before over the first 9 stitches, slip 1 stitch as if to knit, knit 1 and pass the slipped stitch over the knitted stitch, work stockinette stitch until there are 2 stitches left before A.2, knit these 2 stitches together (= 2 stitches decreased).

BINDING-OFF TIP:
To avoid the bind-off edge being tight you can bind off with a larger size needle. If the edge is still tight, make 1 yarn over after approx. each 6th stitch at the same time as binding off; the yarn overs are bind off as normal stitches.

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START THE PIECE HERE:

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JACKET – SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE:
The neck and yoke are worked back and forth with circular needle from mid front and top down. The yoke is divided for body and sleeves and the body continued back and forth. The sleeves are worked in the round with short circular needle/double pointed needles, top down. The bands are worked to finish.


NECK:
Cast on 107-111-115-121-125-129 stitches with circular needle size 3 mm = US 2,5 and Karisma. Purl 1 row (= wrong side). The next row is worked as follows from the right side: 1 edge stitch in GARTER STITCH – read description above, * knit 1, purl 1 *, work from *-* until there are 2 stitches left on the row, knit 1 and 1 edge stitch in garter stitch. Continue this rib.
When the neck measures 2 cm = 3/4” and 5 cm = 2”, work BUTTONHOLES – read description above (these buttonholes will combine when the neck is folded double).
Continue working until the neck measures 6½-7 cm = 2 1/2”-2 3/4”; finish after a row from the right side.
The next row is worked as follows from the wrong side: Bind off the first 7 stitches, cast on 1 new stitch at the beginning of the row (= edge stitch), work rib as before to the end of the row. Turn, bind off the first 7 stitches and cast on 1 new stitch (= edge stitch), knit all stitches and increase AT THE SAME TIME 32-32-34-36-38-38 stitches evenly over these stitches – read INCREASE TIP-1 = 127-131-137-145-151-155 stitches.
Insert 1 marker inside the edge stitch at the beginning of the row; the yoke is measured from this marker.

YOKE:
Change to circular needle size 4 mm = US 6 and work stockinette stitch back and forth with 1 edge stitch in garter stitch on each side. REMEMBER THE KNITTING GAUGE!
When the piece measures 4 cm = 1 1/2” from the marker, increase 44-32-34-36-50-52 stitches evenly spaced – remember INCREASE TIP-1 = 171-163-171-181-201-207 stitches.
Continue working until the piece measures 4-5-6-7-7-8 cm = 1 1/2”-2”-2 3/8”-2 3/4”-2 3/4”-3 1/8” from the marker – at the same time increase 0-20-12-20-33-41 stitches evenly on the last row = 171-183-183-201-234-248 stitches.
The next row is worked as follows from the right side: 1 edge stitch in garter stitch, work A.1 until there are 2 stitches left on the row (= 28-30-30-33-33-35 repeats of 6-6-6-6-7-7 stitches), work the first stitch in A.1 (= purled from the right side) and finish with 1 edge stitch in garter stitch. Continue this pattern.
When A.1 has been completed in height, there are 283-303-333-366-399-423 stitches on the needle and the piece measures approx. 15-16-18-19-21-22 cm = 6”-6 1/4”-7”-7 1/2”-8 1/4”-8 3/4” from the marker.
Continue with stockinette stitch. When you have worked 1-2-2-3-3-3 cm = 3/8”-3/4”-3/4”-1 1/8”-1 1/8”-1 1/8” from A.1, increase 10-14-8-15-6-14 stitches evenly spaced = 293-317-341-381-405-437 stitches. Continue with stockinette stitch.
When the piece measures 20-22-24-26-28-30 cm = 8”-8 3/4”-9 1/2”-10 1/4”-11”-11 3/4” from the marker, divide the yoke for the body and sleeves on the next row as follows: Work 44-48-51-56-62-68 stitches as before (= front piece), place the next 60-64-70-80-80-84 stitches on 1 thread for the sleeve, cast on 7-7-9-9-11-11 new stitches on the needle (= in side under sleeve), work 85-93-99-109-121-133 stitches in stockinette stitch (= back piece), place the next 60-64-70-80-80-84 stitches on 1 thread for the sleeve, cast on 7-7-9-9-11-11 new stitches on the needle (= in side under sleeve) and work the remaining 44-48-51-56-62-68 stitches as before (= front piece). Body and sleeves are finished separately. THE PIECE IS NOW MEASURED FROM HERE!

BODY:
= 187-203-219-239-267-291 stitches. Insert 1 marker in each side – in the middle of the 7-7-9-9-11-11 stitches cast on under each sleeve.
Work stockinette stitch back and forth with 1 edge stitch in garter stitch on each side and A.2 over the middle 9 stitches under each sleeve (markers sit in the middle of these 9 stitches). Continue this pattern.
When the piece measures 6 cm = 2 3/8” from the division, increase 1 stitch on each side of A.2 on each side of the body – read INCREASE TIP-2 (= 4 stitches increased). Increase like this every 6 cm = 2 3/8” a total of 3 times on each side = 199-215-231-251-279-303 stitches.
Work until the piece measures 26 cm = 10 1/4” from the division; there is approx. 3 cm = 1 1/8” left to finished length. You can try the jacket on and work to desired length but finish after a row from the right side.
On the next row (wrong side) increase as follows: Work 1 edge stitch in garter stitch, work 45-49-53-58-65-71 stitches in stockinette stitch and increase 10-10-10-13-14-14 stitches evenly over these stitches, continue A.2 as before, work 89-97-105-115-129-141 stitches in stockinette stitch and increase 18-20-22-24-26-28 stitches evenly over these stitches, work A.2 as before, work 45-49-53-58-65-71 stitches in stockinette stitch and increase 10-10-10-13-14-14 stitches evenly over these stitches, finish with 1 edge stitch in garter stitch = 237-255-273-301-333-359 stitches. These increases avoid the rib being tight.
Change to circular needle size 3 mm = US 2,5 and work the next row from the right side as follows: 1 edge stitch in garter stitch, work 55-59-63-71-79-85 stitches in rib (= knit 1, purl 1), work A.2 over the next 9 stitches, work 107-117-127-139-155-169 stitches in rib, A.2 over the next 9 stitches, work 55-59-63-71-79-85 stitches in rib and finish with 1 edge stitch in garter stitch.
Continue this rib for 3 cm = 1 1/8”. Bind off with knit over knit and purl over purl – read BINDING-OFF TIP! The jacket measures approx. 52-54-56-58-60-62 cm = 20 1/2"-21 1/4"-22"-22 3/4"-23 5/8"-24 3/8" from the shoulder down.

SLEEVE:
Place the 60-64-70-80-80-84 stitches from the thread on the one side of the piece on double pointed needles/short circular needle size 4 mm = US 6 and knit up 1 stitch in each of the 7-7-9-9-11-11stitches cast on under the sleeve = 67-71-79-89-91-95 stitches. Insert a marker thread in the middle of the 7-7-9-9-11-11stitches under the sleeve.
Start the round 4 stitches before the stitch with the marker, work A.2 (= 9 stitches – the marker sits in the middle stitch of these 9 stitches), work the remaining stitches in stockinette stitch. Continue this pattern.
When the sleeve measures 3 cm = 1 1/8” from the division, decrease 1 stitch on each side of A.2 – read DECREASE TIP (= 2 stitches decreased). Decrease every 3½-3-2-1½-1½-1 cm = 1 1/4”-1 1/8”-3/4”-1/2”-1/2”-3/8” a total of 10-11-14-18-18-18 times = 47-49-51-53-55-59 stitches.
Continue working until the sleeve measures 37-35-34-32-30-29 cm = 14 1/2”-13 3/4”-13 3/8”-12 1/2”-11 3/4”-11 3/8” from the division. There is approx. 8 cm = 3 1/8” left to finished length. You can try the jacket on and work to desired length. NOTE: Shorter measurements in larger sizes due to wider neck and longer yoke.
On the next round increase stitches as follows: Work A.2 as before, work 38-40-42-44-46-50 stitches in stockinette stitch and increase 9-9-11-11-11-11 stitches evenly over these stitches = 56-58-62-64-66-70 stitches.
Change to double pointed needles size 3 mm = US 2,5 and work the next round as follows: Work A.2 as before over the first 9 stitches, * knit 1, purl 1 *, work from *-* until there is 1 stitch left before A.2 and finish with knit 1. Continue this rib for 8 cm = 3 1/8”. Bind off with knit over knit and purl over purl – read BINDING-OFF TIP! The sleeve measures approx. 45-43-42-40-38-37 cm = 17 3/4”-17”-16 1/2”-15 3/4”-15”-14 1/2” from the division. Work the other sleeve in the same way.

LEFT BAND:
Start from the right side below the neck and knit up approx. 123 to 149 stitches down the left front piece, inside the edge stitch, with circular needle size 3 mm = US 2,5 – the number of stitches should be divisible by 2 + 1.
The first row is worked as follows from the wrong side: 1 edge stitch in garter stitch, * purl 1, knit 1 *, work from *-* until there are 2 stitches left on the row, purl 1 and finish with 1 edge stitch in garter stitch. Continue this rib for approx. 2½ to 3 cm = 7/8”-1 1/8” (the band width should match the width of the 7 bind-off stitches on the neck). Bind off with knit over knit and purl over purl. Sew the band to the neck, inside the 1 edge stitch.

RIGHT BAND:
Start from the right side, at the bottom of the front piece and knit up approx. 123 to 149 stitches to the neck, inside the edge stitch, with circular needle size 3 mm = US 2,5 – the number of stitches should be divisible by 2 + 1.
The first row is worked as follows from the wrong side: 1 edge stitch in garter stitch, * purl 1, knit 1 *, work from *-* until there are 2 stitches left on the row, purl 1 and finish with 1 edge stitch in garter stitch. Continue this rib for approx. 1 - 1½ cm = 3/8” - 1/2”, then work 6-6-6-7-7-7 buttonholes. 1 buttonhole = make 1 yarn over and knit 2 together. The top buttonhole is positioned approx. 7 - 8 cm = 2 3/4” – 3 1/8” below the buttonhole on the neck and the bottom buttonhole 3 cm = 1 1/8” from the edge.
Continue the rib until the band measures approx. 2½ to 3 cm = 7/8” to 1 1/8” (matches the left band). Bind off with knit over knit and purl over purl. Sew the band to the neck, inside the 1 edge stitch.

ASSEMBLY:
Fold the neck double to the wrong side and sew down neatly. Sew the buttons onto the left band.

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

symbols = knit from right side, purl from wrong side
symbols = purl from right side, knit from wrong side
symbols = between 2 stitches make 2 slightly tight yarn overs; on the next row drop the one yarn over and purl the other (leaves a hole)
symbols = knit 3, pass the first stitch over the other 2 so it lies around them (= 1 stitch decreased)
symbols = place 1 stitch on cable needle in front of piece, purl 1, knit 1 from cable needle
symbols = place 1 stitch on cable needle behind piece, knit 1, purl 1 from cable needle
symbols = place 1 stitch on cable needle in front of piece, purl 1, knit 1 from cable needle, knit 1, place 1 stitch on cable needle behind piece, knit 1, pass the innermost of the first 3 stitches on the right needle over the outermost 2 so it lies around them (= 1 stitch decreased), purl 1 from cable needle
symbols = this square has no stitch as it was decreased earlier; go straight to next symbol in the diagram
symbols = between 2 stitches make 1 slightly tight yarn over, on the next row knit the yarn over twisted as shown in the diagram (no hole)
symbols = yarn over purled twisted (no hole)
symbols = yarn over knitted twisted (no hole)
diagram
diagram
diagram

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (6)

country flag Rebekah wrote:

I am on the A.1 pattern and having problems with right side row 25. Can you clarify please.

29.01.2024 - 00:25

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Rebekah, on row 25 work as follows for A.1: purl 2, place 1 stitch on cable needle behind piece, knit 1, purl 1 from cable needle, make 1 slightly tight yarn over, yarn over purled twisted, make 1 slightly tight yarn over, place 1 stitch on cable needle in front of piece, purl 1, knit 1 from cable needle, purl 1. Because the yarn overs are each worked differently and with the objective that they don't form holes, even if you work 3 yarn overs one after the other, you won't have a big hole. Happy knitting!

29.01.2024 - 00:44

country flag Lesley Swan wrote:

Hi. I am up to the patterning on the wild mint pattern and I am confused. On row 3 do I work the light printed cable or the dark printed cable with 2?? after the cabling. I worked the dark one but now think it wrong. Thanks.

23.08.2023 - 14:26

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Mrs Swan, on 3rd row work 7th symbol in diagram text, the symbol will be edited asap, but these 5 stitches have to be worked as explained here: slip 1 in front of piece, P1, K1 from cable needle, slip 1 behind piece, k1, pass the innermost of the 3 sts over the 2 sts worked, and purl 1 from cable needle. (then make 1 yarn over = 9th symbol). Happy knitting!

23.08.2023 - 16:47

country flag Jian wrote:

I have a difficult to work out the A.1 row 3 diagram. Would be able to provide a video. Many thanks.

20.05.2021 - 11:47

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Jian, work the 3rd row in A.1 as follows: *purl 1, slip the next stitch on a cable needle in front of piece, purl the next stitch, knit the stitch on the cable needle; now slip the next stitch on the cable needle behind piece, knit the next stitch, slip the 3rd stitch from the tip on the right needle over the 2 outermost stitches (you decrease 1 stitch), and purl the stitch from cable needle. If working size XXL, XXXL, purl next stitch. Repeat from *. Hope this will help. Happy knitting!

20.05.2021 - 12:41

country flag Jessica wrote:

Teckenförklaringen i det här mönstret är felaktig, de tre rutorna med diagonalt streck har samma förklaring som symbolen ovanför, i möster 215-16 verkar den korrekt.

01.11.2020 - 17:35

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Jessica. Tack för info, detta är nu rättat! Mvh DROPS Design

03.11.2020 - 10:23

country flag Arina wrote:

I am having difficulty visualizing the construction of the neck band and button band. Would it be possible to supply a diagram? Thank you.

25.10.2020 - 17:06

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Arina, we have two videos showing how to work the neck band and button band: how to work a double neck and how to knit up stitches for a jacket band. Hope they will help you. Happy knitting!

26.10.2020 - 08:45

country flag Ing-Marie Jungegård wrote:

Vill se hur man stickar fläta i A1

04.10.2020 - 10:38

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Ing-Marie. Vi har dessvärre ingen video på det nu men vi noterar önskemålet. Är det något speciellt du har problem med som vi kanske kan försöka förklara tydligare? Mvh DROPS Design

06.10.2020 - 07:50