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Endless Possibilities Sweater by DROPS Design

Knitted sweater in DROPS Sky and DROPS Kid-Silk. Piece is knitted top down with round yoke, cables and double neck edge. Size: S - XXXL

Keywords: assembly free, cable, double neck, long sleeves, round neck, round yoke, sweater, top down

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DROPS 216-1
DROPS design: Pattern sk-095
Yarn group B and A
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SIZE:
S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL
Finished measurements:
Chest measurements: 84-92-100-110-122-144 cm = 33”-36 1/4”-39 3/8”-43 3/8”-48”-56 1/2”
Full length: 54-56-58-60-62-64 cm = 21 1/4"-22"-22 3/4"-23 5/8"-24 3/8"-25 1/4"

All measurements in charts are in cm.
MATERIALS:
DROPS SKY from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group B)
200-250-250-300-300-350 g color 01, white
And use:
DROPS KID-SILK from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group A)
100-100-125-125-150-150 g color 01, off white

KNITTING GAUGE:
17 stitches in width and 22 rows vertically in stockinette stitch and 1 strand of each quality = 10 x 10 cm = 4” x 4”.

NEEDLES:
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 5 mm = US 8
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 5 mm = US 8: Length 40 and 80 cm = 16” and 32” for stockinette stitch.
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 4 mm = US 6
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 4 mm = US 6: Length 40 and 80 cm = 16” and 32” for rib.
DROPS CABLE NEEDLE - for cables.
Needle size is only a suggestion! If you have too many stitches on 10 cm = 4” switch to a larger needle size. If you have too few stitches on 10 cm = 4” switch to a smaller needle size.

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Knitting tension – See how to measure it and why here
Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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74% Alpaca, 18% Polyamide, 8% Wool 		from 7.20 $ /50g
DROPS Sky uni colour DROPS Sky uni colour 7.20 $ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd 		Order
DROPS Sky mix DROPS Sky mix 7.20 $ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd 		Order

75% Mohair, 25% Silk 		from 6.75 $ /25g
DROPS Kid-Silk uni colour DROPS Kid-Silk uni colour 6.75 $ /25g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd 		Order
DROPS Kid-Silk long print DROPS Kid-Silk long print 6.75 $ /25g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd 		Order
needles DROPS Needles & Hooks
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 55.80$. Read more.

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Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
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EXPLANATION FOR THE PATTERN:

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PATTERN:
See diagram A.1.

INCREASE TIP (evenly):
To calculate how to increase evenly, use the total number of stitches on row (e.g. 76 stitches) and divide stitches by number of increases to be done (e.g. 8) = 9.5.
In this example increase by making 1 yarn over after alternately approx. every 9th and 10th stitch. On next round work yarn overs twisted to avoid holes.

DECREASE TIP (applies to sleeves):
Decrease 1 stitch on each side of marker thread as follows: Work until 3 stitches remain before marker thread and knit 2 together, knit 2 (marker thread is between these stitches), slip 1 stitch knitwise, knit 1, pass slipped stitch over stitch worked.

BIND-OFF TIP:
To avoid a tight bind-off edge you may use a larger needle size. If this also is too tight, work a 1 yarn over after approx. every 4th stitch while binding off (bind off yarn overs as regular stitches).

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START THE PIECE HERE:

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SWEATER - SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE:
Work neck edge and yoke in the round on circular needle from mid back, top down. Now divide yoke for body and sleeves. Body is worked in the round on circular needle, top down. Work sleeves in the round on double pointed needles/short circular needle, top down.

DOUBLE NECK EDGE:
Cast on 76-80-84-92-96-100 stitches on circular needle size 4 mm = US 6 with 1 strand Sky and 1 strand Kid-Silk (= 2 strands). Knit 1 round. Then work rib (= knit 2/purl 2) in the round for 9 cm = 3 1/2”. When rib is done, knit 1 round while increasing 8-11-14-13-16-19 stitches evenly - read INCREASE TIP = 84-91-98-105-112-119 stitches. Knit 1 round. Switch to circular needle size 5 mm. Insert 1 marker mid back, measure yoke from this marker!

YOKE:
Now work pattern A.1 12-13-14-15-16-17 times in total on round. REMEMBER THE KNITTING GAUGE. When entire A.1 has been worked vertically, there are 216-234-252-270-288-306 stitches on round. Continue in the round with stockinette stitch. When piece measures 16-17-18-18-18-18 cm = 6 1/4”-6 3/4”-7”-7”-7”-7”, increase 12-12-14-13-14-19 stitches evenly = 228-246-266-283-302-325 stitches.
Increase in size S, M and L is now done - continue as explained below. Continue in size XL, XXL and XXXL with stockinette stitch until piece measures 22-24-26 cm = 8 3/4”-9 1/2”-10 1/4”. Now increase 13-14-19 stitches evenly = 296-316-344 stitches.

All sizes:
Continue in the round in stockinette stitch until piece measures 19-21-22-24-26-28 cm = 7 1/2”-8 1/4”-8 3/4”-9 1/2”-10 1/4”-11”. Now divide piece for body and sleeves. Work next round as follows: Work the first 32-35-37-42-46-51 stitches (= half back piece), slip the next 50-53-58-64-66-70 stitches on a stitch holder for sleeve and cast on 8-8-10-10-12-12 new stitches on needle (= in the side under sleeve), work the next 64-70-75-84-92-102 stitches (= front piece), slip the next 50-53-58-64-66-70 stitches on a stitch holder for sleeve and cast on 8-8-10-10-12-12 new stitches on needle (= in the side under sleeve), work the remaining 32-35-38-42-46-51 stitches (= half back piece). Then finish body and sleeves separately. NOW MEASURE PIECE FROM HERE!

BODY:
= 144-156-170-188-208-228 stitches. Work in stockinette stitch in the round. When piece measures 27-27-28-28-28-28 cm = 10 5/8”-10 5/8”-11”-11”-11”-11”, increase 28-32-34-40-44-48 stitches evenly = 172-188-204-228-252-276 stitches. Switch to circular needle size 4 mm = US 6. Work rib (knit 2/purl 2) in the round for 4 cm = 1 1/2”. Bind off with knit over knit and purl over purl - read BIND-OFF TIP. Sweater measures approx. 54-56-58-60-62-64 cm = 21 1/4"-22"-22 3/4"-23 5/8"-24 3/8"-25 1/4" from shoulder and down.

SLEEVES:
Slip the 50-53-58-64-66-70 stitches from stitch holder in one side back on a short circular needle/double pointed needles size 5 mm = US 8 and pick in addition up 1 stitch in each of the new 8-8-10-10-12-12 stitches cast on in the side under sleeve = 58-61-68-74-78-82 stitches. Insert a marker thread in the middle of the new stitches (= 4-4-5-5-6-6 new stitches on each side of marker thread).
Work in stockinette stitch in the round. When sleeve measures 4-4-5-5-5-3 cm = 1 1/2”-1 1/2”-2”-2”-2”-1 1/8” from division, decrease 2 stitches under sleeve - READ DECREASE TIP. Decrease like this every 3½-3-2-1½-1½-1½ cm = 1 1/4”-1 1/8”-3/4”-1/2”-1/2”-1/2” 9-10-13-15-16-17 times in total = 40-41-42-44-46-48 stitches.
When sleeve measures 38-37-36-34-33-31 cm = 15”-14 1/2”-14 1/4”-13 3/8”-13”-12 1/4” (shorter measurements in the larger sizes because of longer yoke), increase 8-7-10-8-10-8 stitches evenly = 48-48-52-52-56-56 stitches. Switch to double pointed needles size 4 mm = US 6. Work rib (knit 2/purl 2) in the round for 4 cm = 1 1/2”. Bind off with knit over knit and purl over purl - remember BIND-OFF TIP. Sleeve measures 42-41-40-38-37-35 cm = 16 1/2”-16 1/8”-15 3/4”-15”-14 1/2”-13 3/4” in total from division. Work the other sleeve the same way.

ASSEMBLY:
Fold rib at the top of neck down on the inside of garment. Fasten rib to form a double neck edge. To avoid a tight neck edge and avoiding the edge to tip outwards, it is important to make the seam elastic.

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

symbols = knit
symbols = purl
symbols = between 2 stitches make 1 yarn over. On next round purl yarn over twisted to avoid holes
symbols = between 2 stitches make 1 yarn over. On next round knit yarn over twisted to avoid holes.
symbols = slip 2 stitches on cable needle in front of piece, knit 2, knit 2 from cable needle
symbols = slip 2 stitches on cable needle behind piece, knit 2, knit 2 from cable needle
symbols = slip 1 stitch on cable needle behind piece, knit 2, purl 1 from cable needle
symbols = slip 2 stitches on cable needle in front of piece, purl 1, knit 2 from cable needle
symbols = slip 1 stitch on cable needle behind piece, knit 2, knit 1 from cable needle
symbols = slip 2 stitches on cable needle in front of piece, knit 1, knit 2 from cable needle
symbols = at the beginning of round displace beginning of round 2 stitch backwards, i.e. beginning of round begins when 2 stitches remain from previous round. When round has been worked, knit the next 2 stitches. Then the beginning of round is as previously in piece
diagram
diagram

Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 216-1) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

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Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

These step-by-step tutorials might also help you:

We have also step-by-step guides for different techniques which you'll find here.

And a very handy technical dictionary!
1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?
2) What are the yarn groups?
3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?
4) How do I use the yarn converter?
5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?
6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?
7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?
8) What is a repeat?
9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?
10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?
11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?
12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?
13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?
14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?
15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?
16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?
17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?
18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?
19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?
20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?
21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?
22) Where on the garment is the length measured?
23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (41)

country flag Nathalie wrote:

Bonjour, Dans les explications du pull, il est noté de relever des mailles pour tricoter la manche alors que dans la vidéo ”comment tricoter un pull de haut en bas ” il est question de monter les mailles et de coudre par la suite. Quels sont les avantages et inconvénients de chacune des méthodes. Cordialement

07.03.2023 - 22:01

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Nathalie, en relevant les mailles, vous évitez une couture au milieu sous les manches - à titre d'exemple, cette leçon montre les 2 techniques (photos 18A et B). Bon tricot!

08.03.2023 kl. 09:18

country flag Birgit Eklund Pedersen wrote:

Kan jeg skifte til 2 tråde baby merino? Vh Birgit

04.01.2023 - 17:52

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Birgit, Ja, du kan strikke med 2 tråde DROPS Baby Merino på strikkefastheden som står i opskriften 17 masker på 10 cm :)

05.01.2023 kl. 10:18

country flag Diane wrote:

I would like to try to knit this sweater but I don’t understand the diagram instructions it says *at the beginning of round displace beginning of round 2 stitch backwards, ie beginning of round begins when 2 stitches remain from previous round. When round has been worked, knit the next 2 stitches. Then the beginning of round is as previously in piece. What does this mean? Am I knitting these 2 stitches together? I really don’t understand this part?

18.03.2022 - 02:39

DROPS Design answered:

Hi Diane, It is only the one round which is displaced. As you say the round starts (using the diagram) 2 stitches before the normal start and at the end of the round you knit 2 stitches to take you back to the original start. There is no knitting together, just normal knit. Happy crafting!

18.03.2022 kl. 06:59

country flag Liz Preece wrote:

I like to knit bottom up, can I just start knitting from the other end and just knit two together?

10.01.2022 - 18:16

country flag Erika wrote:

Salve, volevo sapere come si può fare una cucitura elastica del collo alla confezione? Ho fatto un avvio elastico del collo. In attesa di risposta, cordiali saluti.

05.01.2022 - 03:02

DROPS Design answered:

Buongiorno Erika, il collo va piegato verso l'interno e cucito: deve semplicemente mantenere la cucitura morbida, per non stringere troppo i punti. Buon lavoro!

05.01.2022 kl. 10:46

country flag Erika wrote:

Salve, volevo sapere come si può fare una cucitura elastica del collo alla confezione? Ho fatto un avvio elastico del collo. In attesa di risposta, cordiali saluti.

05.01.2022 - 02:58

DROPS Design answered:

Buongiorno Erika, il collo va piegato verso l'interno e cucito: deve semplicemente mantenere la cucitura morbida, per non stringere troppo i punti. Buon lavoro!

05.01.2022 kl. 10:46

country flag Hannie Weststrate wrote:

Er staat een fout in de toelichting op het telpatroon. Bij de eerste beschrijving van een kabel moeten de steken op de kabelnaald VOOR het werk gehouden worden en niet erachter zoals er nu staat. Dit is al eerder doorgegeven, maar nog steeds niet verbeterd.

10.06.2021 - 11:37

country flag Kathrin Hartmann wrote:

Ich würde diesen Pulli gerne in der Nr. 12, das jeansblau stricken, welche Farbe würden sie von der Silk kit dazu empfehlen?

11.05.2021 - 13:03

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Frau Hartmann, Ihr DROPS Laden wird Ihnen gerne damit helfen - auch telefonisch oder per E-Mail, die passenden Farben zu finden - Viel Spaß beim stricken!

11.05.2021 kl. 13:30

country flag Marialuisa Pullano wrote:

Con l'aumento di 32 maglie al fondo per la taglia M, è normale che venga così scampanato il modello? Mi sembra troppo largo al bordo inferiore

07.04.2021 - 12:02

DROPS Design answered:

Buonasera Marialuisa, gli aumenti servono per preparare la lavorazione delle coste, che altrimenti restringerebbero il lavoro. Buon lavoro!

07.04.2021 kl. 19:03

country flag Lorena wrote:

Continua dalle due domande precedenti: credo di aver capito: probabilmente quando ho scucito ho tolto anche gli aumenti che mi facevano arrivare a 84 maglie, purtroppo era un numero corretto per fare 10 volte lo schema e non me ne sono accorta, il mio errore è stato non contare 🤨 adesso che ho finito e sono arrivata sino a questo punto la mia domanda è se posso fare gli aumenti nei prossimi 6(?) giri distribuendo le 30 maglie mancanti .... grazie mille

10.03.2021 - 17:34

DROPS Design answered:

Buonasera Lorena, gli aumenti erano incorporati in modo graduale nello sprone proprio per ammorbidire la crescita e adattarlo al corpo. Può provare ad aumentare alla fine facendo provare il capo a chi poi lo indosserà per verificare che non presenti difetti. Buon lavoro!

10.03.2021 kl. 21:53

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