DROPS Brushed Alpaca Silk
77% Alpaca, 23% Silk
from 3.95 $ /25g

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Get the yarn to make this pattern from 23.70$.

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Climbing Ivy

Knitted sweater in DROPS Brushed Alpaca Silk. The piece is worked top down with raglan and cables. Sizes S - XXXL.

Highlight Size:

DROPS 215-1
DROPS Design: Pattern no as-142
Yarn group A + A or C
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SIZES:
S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL
Finished measurements:
Chest measurements: 92-100-108-118-130-142 cm = 36¼"-39⅜"-42½"-46½"-51¼"-55¾"
Full length: 56-58-60-62-64-66 cm = 22"-22¾"-23⅝"-24⅜"-25¼"-26"

All measurements in charts are in cm.
MATERIALS:
DROPS BRUSHED ALPACA SILK from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group C)
150-175-200-200-225-250 g color 21, sage green

KNITTING GAUGE:
17 stitches in width and 22 rows in height with stockinette stitch = 10 x 10 cm = 4" x 4".

NEEDLES:
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 5 MM = US 8.
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 5 MM = US 8: Length 40 cm = 16" and 80 cm = 32" for stockinette stitch.
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 4 MM = US 6.
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 4 MM = US 6: Length 40 cm = 16" and 80 cm = 32" for rib.
DROPS CABLE NEEDLE – for cables.
Needle size is only a guide. If you get too many stitches on 10 cm = 4", change to a larger needle size. If you get too few stitches on 10 cm = 4", change to a smaller needle size.

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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More like this:
Women Jumpers assembly free cable raglan round neck top down

DROPS Brushed Alpaca Silk
77% Alpaca, 23% Silk
from 3.95 $ /25g

Order

DROPS Needles & Hooks

Get the yarn to make this pattern from 23.70$.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.

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EXPLANATIONS FOR THE PATTERN:

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PATTERN:
See diagrams A.1 to A.4.

RAGLAN:
Increase 1 stitch on each side of every repeat of A.2 (= 8 stitches increased on the row). Increase by making 1 yarn over. On the next round knit the yarn overs twisted so there are NO holes. Then work the new stitches in stockinette stitch.

DECREASE TIP (for sleeves):
Decrease 1 stitch on either side of the marker thread as follows: Work until there are 3 stitches left before the marker thread, knit 2 together, knit 2 (marker thread sits between these 2 stitches), slip 1 stitch as if to knit, knit 1 and pass the slipped stitch over the knitted stitch.

INCREASE TIP (evenly spaced):
To work out how to increase evenly, count the total number of stitches on the needle (e.g. 19 stitches) and divide by the number of increases to be made (e.g. 6) = 3.1.
In this example, increase by making 1 yarn over after approx. each 3rd stitch. On the next round work the yarn overs twisted to avoid holes.

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START THE PIECE HERE:

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SWEATER – SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE:
The piece is worked in the round with circular needle, top down from mid back. The sleeves are worked in the round with short circular needle/double pointed needles, top down.

NECK:
Cast on 106-106-114-114-122-122 stitches with circular needle size 4 mm = US 6 and Brushed Alpaca Silk. Knit 1 round, then work rib as follows from mid-back:

SIZES S-M-XXL-XXXL:
Purl 1, knit 2, * purl 2, knit 2 *, repeat from *-* over the next 0-0-4-4 stitches, work A.1 (= 22 stitches), knit 3, work A.1 (= 22 stitches), knit 2, * purl 2, knit 2 *, repeat from *-* over the next 4-4-12-12 stitches, work A.1 (= 22 stitches), knit 3, work A.1 (= 22 stitches), * knit 2, purl 2 *, repeat from *-* over the next 0-0-4-4 stitches, knit 2, purl 1.

SIZES L-XL:
Knit 1, purl 2, knit 2, work A.1 (= 22 stitches), knit 3, work A.1 (= 22 stitches), knit 2, * purl 2, knit 2 *, repeat from *-* over the next 8 stitches, work A.1 (= 22 stitches), knit 3, work A.1 (= 22 stitches), knit 2, purl 2, knit 1.

ALL SIZES:
Repeat the first 2 rounds in A.1 and work remaining stitches as before until the piece measures 3 cm = 1⅛", insert 1 marker here (= mid front, now measure from here), continue with the first 2 rounds in A.1 and work remaining stitches as before until the piece measures 7 cm = 2¾". Then work the last round in A.1 (with increases). There are 122-122-130-130-138-138 stitches on the needle.

YOKE:
Change to circular needle size 5 mm = US 8. The next round is worked as follows: Knit 3-3-5-5-7-7, work A.2 (= 26 stitches) over A.1 (= half back piece), * 1 yarn over, knit 1 *, work from *-* a total of 3 times, 1 yarn over (= 7 sleeve stitches), work A.2 over A.1, knit 6-6-10-10-14-14, work A.2 over A.1 (= front piece), * 1 yarn over, knit 1 *, work from *-* a total of 3 times, 1 yarn over, (= 7 sleeve stitches), work A.2 over A.1, knit 3-3-5-5-7-7 (= half back piece) = 130-130-138-138-146-146 stitches.
Work 1 more round with this pattern; the 4 yarn overs in each side and over the sleeves are knitted twisted to avoid holes. REMEMBER THE KNITTING GAUGE!
Continue with A.2 and stockinette stitch, AT THE SAME TIME on the first round increase 1 stitch on each side of every A.2 to RAGLAN – read description above. Increase like this every 2nd round a total of 17-21-22-25-27-31 times = 266-298-314-338-362-394 stitches. Continue the increases on the sleeves 4-2-4-4-2-0 more times (= a total of 21-23-26-29-29-31 stitches increased on each sleeve), the remaining stitches are continued as before. When all the increases are finished there are 282-306-330-354-370-394 stitches on the needle. Continue working until the piece measures 23-25-28-30-31-32 cm = 9"-9¾"-11"-11¾"-12¼"-12½" from the marker mid-front. If the piece is shorter than this, continue working without further increases to correct length.

The next round is worked as follows:
Work the first 46-50-53-56-60-64 stitches (= half back piece), place the next 49-53-59-65-65-69 stitches on a thread for the sleeve, cast on 6-6-6-8-10-12 new stitches on the needles (= in side under sleeve), work the next 92-100-106-112-120-128 stitches (= front piece), place the next 49-53-59-65-65-69 stitches on a thread for the sleeve, cast on 6-6-6-8-10-12 new stitches on the needles (= in side under sleeve) and work the remaining 46-50-53-56-60-64 stitches (= half back piece). THE PIECE IS MEASURED FROM HERE!

BODY:
196-212-224-240-260-280 stitches.
Continue in the round with A.2 and stockinette stitch as before. The new stitches cast on in each side are worked in stockinette stitch. Continue working until the piece measures 26-26-25-25-26-27 cm = 10¼"-10¼"-9¾"-9¾"-10¼"-10⅝" from the division – adjust so the next round in A.2 has cabling. Change to circular needle size 4 mm = US 6 and work the next round as follows: Knit 1, * purl 2, knit 2 *, repeat from *-* over the next 19-23-26-29-33-37 stitches, AT THE SAME TIME as you increase 1-1-2-3-3-3 stitches evenly spaced – read INCREASE TIP (= 20-24-28-32-36-40 stitches in rib), work A.3 over A.2, * knit 2, purl 2 *, repeat from *-* over the next 6-6-6-8-10-12 stitches, AT THE SAME TIME as you increase 0-0-0-2-0-2 stitches evenly spaced over these stitches (= 6-6-6-10-10-14 stitches in rib), work A.3 over A.2, * knit 2, purl 2 *, repeat from *-* over the next 40-48-54-60-68-76 stitches, AT THE SAME TIME as you increase 2-2-0-2-2-2 stitches evenly spaced (= 42-50-54-62-70-78 stitches in rib), work A.3 over A.2, * knit 2, purl 2 *, repeat from *-* over the next 6-6-6-8-10-12 stitches, AT THE SAME TIME as you increase 0-0-0-2-0-2 stitches evenly spaced over these stitches (= 6-6-6-10-10-14 stitches in rib), work A.3 over A.2, * knit 2, purl 2 *, repeat from *-* over the next 19-23-26-29-33-37 stitches, AT THE SAME TIME as you increase 1-1-2-3-3-3 stitches evenly spaced (= 20-24-28-32-36-40 stitches in rib), knit 1.
On the next round, continue the rib and work A.4 over A.3 = 184-200-212-236-252-276 stitches. When the rib measures 4 cm = 1½", bind off with knit over knit and purl over purl. The sweater measures approx. 56-58-60-62-64-66 cm = 22"-22¾"-23⅝"-24⅜"-25¼"-26" from the shoulder down.

SLEEVE:
Place the 49-53-59-65-65-67 stitches from the thread on the one side of the piece on double pointed needles/short circular needle size 5 mm = US 8 and knit up 1 stitch in each of the 6-6-6-8-10-12 stitches cast on under the sleeve = 55-59-65-73-75-81 stitches. Insert a marker thread in the middle of the 6-6-6-8-10-12 stitches under the sleeve. Work stockinette stitch in the round.
When the sleeve measures 4 cm = 1½" from the division, decrease 1 stitch on each side of the marker thread under the sleeve – read DECREASE TIP. Decrease like this every 5-4-2½-2-2-1½ cm = 2"-1½"-⅞"-¾"-¾"-½" a total of 6-7-10-13-13-14 times = 43-45-45-47-49-53 stitches. Continue working until the sleeve measures 35-34-32-30-30-30 cm = 13¾"-13⅜"-12½"-11¾"-11¾"-11¾" – NOTE! Shorter measurements in larger sizes due to wider neck and longer yoke). Knit 1 round where you increase 1-3-3-1-3-3 stitches evenly spaced = 44-48-48-48-52-56 stitches. Change to double pointed needles size 4 mm = US 6 and work rib (knit 2, purl 2) for 4 cm = 1½". Bind off with knit over knit and purl over purl. The sleeve measures approx. 39-38-36-34-34-34 cm = 15¼"-15"-14¼"-13⅜"-13⅜"-13⅜".

Work the other sleeve in the same way.

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

	= knit
	= purl
	= between 2 stitches make 1 yarn over
	= place 2 stitches on cable needle behind the piece, knit 2, knit 2 from the cable needle
	= place 2 stitches on cable needle in front of the piece, knit 2, knit 2 from the cable needle
	= place 4 stitches on cable needle behind the piece, knit 4, knit 4 from the cable needle
	= place 4 stitches on cable needle in front of the piece, knit 4, knit 4 from the cable needle
	= purl 2 together
	= knit 2 together

© 1982-2024 DROPS Design A/S We reserve all rights. This document, including all its sub-sections, has copyrights.
What can you do with our patterns? You can share DROPS patterns online, using the pattern original picture, materials, name and number. But you are NOT ALLOWED to reproduce the complete pattern digitally in any way. Yarn stores are welcome to use the DROPS pattern database to promote the sale of our assortment. You can print out our patterns, make as many copies as you’d like. The only thing we ask is that you don't make any changes / additions to the original printed document. And that the patterns according to the DROPS philosophy are given out to the consumers for free. Editorials that wish to publish our patterns in printed books or magazines can contact us for more information. The sale of garments based on DROPS patterns is permitted as long as they are sold as single items or per order. Further commercial use of the patterns is not permitted. It has to be clearly stated that the garment is made based on a design from DROPS DESIGN. The use of clothing labels of which DROPS DESIGN forms part is conditioned by the inclusion of the following text: “A DROPS DESIGN made by …..”. The use of DROPS photos for marketing purposes/sales is only permitted in connection with the use/sale of DROPS products. The photos may not be cut or edited and the logo should be clearly visible.
We reserve the right to withdraw the permission for use of our patterns at any time, notwithstanding the reason.

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

These step-by-step tutorials might also help you:

Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

What size should I knit?

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Why does my garment pill?

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (85)

Kirsten Schnabel wrote:

Hallo, Ich möchte gerne den Climbing Ivy Pullover stricken. Nach der Halsblende von 106 Maschen geht es für mich nicht ersichtlich weiter. Es sind plötzlich viel mehr Maschen, obwohl keine zugenommen werden! Oder mache ich einen Denkfehler? Größe M

20.09.2024 - 18:01

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Frau Schnabel, es sind Zunahmen (Umschläge) in A.1aber die 2 ersten Reihen A.1 werden zuerst wiederholt bis die Arbeit 3 cm misst, dann wird es die letzte Reihe A.1 gestrickt und 4 Maschen in jedem A.1 (4 M x 4 ) zugenommen, so sind es 106+16= 122 Maschen. Viel Spaß beim Stricken!

23.09.2024 - 07:37

Mette wrote:

I wish you had more photos from all sides on all pattern and also wrote the size of the model. It makes it much easier to understand.

20.05.2024 - 23:02

Ira Hnida wrote:

Habe alle Rätsel selbst gelöst. Konnte nicht warten. Vg

27.03.2024 - 16:51

Vish wrote:

Hi! I finished working on the yoke and the increases on the sleeves for the size L. After making the increases on the sleeves 4 times (for size L), the number of stitches on the needle =346 stitches NOT 330 stitches. Is there some error with the math on the pattern? Basically, 314 sts after the yoke increases for size L + 16 sts + 16 stitches on each of the sleeves (=346 sts). What am I missing? Please help! Thanks!

26.03.2024 - 04:56

Dear Vish, after you get 314 stitches you increase 4 more times only in the sleeves. You have 2 increases per sleeve. So you increase 2 increases x 2 sleeves x 4 times =16 increases. 314 stitches +16 increases = 330 stitches. Happy knitting!

31.03.2024 - 23:02

Hallo Drops Team , nun bin ich immernoch beim Übergang zur Passe habe meinen 1 Fehler begriffen , trotzdem fehlen mir immer noch 2 Maschen .Komme auf 136 bei 4 mal 4 Maschen Zunahme. Das erste Rätsel habe ich geschafft,nun fehlen noch 2 M Auch auf dem Papier beim Rechnen. VG

25.03.2024 - 01:03

Siehe Antwort unten :)

02.04.2024 - 09:25

Hallo Drops Design Team ,wenn ich ganz am Anfang 122 M mit A1 stricke ,komme ich in der letzten Reihe auf 20 Umschläge,also auf 142 Maschen ,nicht 138. Das ist mir ein Rätsel. Viele Grüße

24.03.2024 - 18:04

Liebe Frau Hnida, bei der letzten Reihe in A.1 wird man 4 Maschen (siehe Umschläge) zunehmen, so wird man insgesamt 4 Maschen in jedem A.1 (4Mal) = 16 Maschen zunehmen, so hat man 122 + 16 = 138 Maschen. Viel Spaß beim Stricken!

02.04.2024 - 09:18

Thank you for your response! This really helps. I have a follow up question -- When you/the pattern says "increasing on the 2nd round a total of 17-21-22-25-27-31 times," second round of A.2 pattern or every second (alternate) round in the pattern? Meaning in rounds 1, 3, 5, 7 of the A.2 pattern? I am a new knitter and this is my first raglan pattern, so I am very confused about how to do the increases.

13.03.2024 - 20:27

See answer below :)

14.03.2024 - 08:20

13.03.2024 - 19:21

Dear Vish, yes that's right, you will work alternately 1 round with increases, 1 round without increases until you have worked 17 - 31 times (see size). Happy knitting!

14.03.2024 - 08:14

Hi, I am making this pattern in size L. I am now working the yoke. I knit the 1st round of yoke and have 138 st (= all good so far). I am extremely confused about how to work round 2 onwards. Do I repeat Round 2 of A.2 with the increases on each side of the sleeves and over the sleeves? What does it mean to "Continue with A.2 and stocking stitch, AT THE SAME TIME on the first round increase 1 stitch on each side of every A.2 to RAGLAN – read description above.?" Please help!

10.03.2024 - 06:32

Dear Wish, when you start the yoke, on the stitches that were knitted with the pattern A.1 will be continued with the pattern A.2. AND increases on both sides of all repeats of pattern A.2.From then on you continue with the rows (rounds) of pattern A.2 at the raglan lines, increasing as the instructions say ("2nd round a total of 17-21-22-25-27-31 times = 266-298-314-338-362-394 stitches. Continue the increases on the sleeves 4-2-4-4-2-0 more times (= a total of 21-23-26-29-29-31 stitches increased on each sleeve),"), and stocking stitches on the rest. I hopw this helps. Happy Knitting!

10.03.2024 - 22:23

Josephine Lottenburger wrote:

Har I brugt pind 4 eller 5 til strikkefastheden?

12.02.2024 - 17:32

Hej Josephine, vi bruger pind 5 :)

22.02.2024 - 11:29

Climbing Ivy

Knitted sweater in DROPS Brushed Alpaca Silk. The piece is worked top down with raglan and cables. Sizes S - XXXL.

Pattern instructions

Diagram

How to work a sweater top down

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How to change yarns or yarn amounts

How to choose yarn!

Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

How to increase/decrease evenly!

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How to cast on

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How to purl stitches

How to decrease stitches

How to cast off from the right side

How to cast off from the wrong side

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Climbing Ivy

Knitted sweater in DROPS Brushed Alpaca Silk. The piece is worked top down with raglan and cables. Sizes S - XXXL.

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