DROPS Sky
DROPS Sky
74% Alpaca, 18% Polyamide, 8% Wool
from 7.20 $ /50g
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 21.60$. Read more.

Rose Blush

Knitted vest in DROPS Sky. The piece is worked with ribbed edging and a split in the sides. Sizes S - XXXL.

DROPS 212-44
DROPS Design: Pattern no sk-093
Yarn group B
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SIZES:
S - M - L - XL - XXL – XXXL

Finished measurements:
Chest measurements: 80-88-96-106-118-130 cm = 31 1/2”-34 5/8”-37 3/4”-41 3/4”-46 1/2”-51 1/4”
Full length: 54-56-58-60-62-64 cm = 21 1/4"-22"-22 3/4"-23 5/8"-24 3/8"-25 1/4"

All measurements in charts are in cm.

MATERIALS:
DROPS SKY from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group B)
150-150-150-200-200-200 g color 18, dusty pink

or use:
DROPS SOFT TWEED from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group B)
250-250-250-300-300-300 g color 03 sand

KNITTING GAUGE:
20 stitches in width and 26 rows in height with stockinette stitch = 10 x 10 cm = 4” x 4”.

NEEDLES:
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 4.5 MM = US 7: Length 80 cm = 32” for stockinette stitch.
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 3.5 MM = US 4: Length 40 cm = 16” and 80 cm = 32” for rib.
Needle size is only a guide. If you get too many stitches on 10 cm = 4”, change to a larger needle size. If you get too few stitches on 10 cm = 4”, change to a smaller needle size.

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Knitting tension – See how to measure it and why here
Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Sky
DROPS Sky
74% Alpaca, 18% Polyamide, 8% Wool
from 7.20 $ /50g
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 21.60$. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
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EXPLANATIONS FOR THE PATTERN:

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RIDGE/GARTER STITCH (worked back and forth):
Knit all rows.
1 ridge in height = Knit 2 rows.

DECREASE TIP (evenly spaced):
To work out how to decrease evenly, count the total number of stitches on needle (e.g. 88 stitches) minus the edge stitches (e.g. 10 stitches) and divide the remaining stitches by number of decreases to be made (e.g. 8) = 9.8.
In this example decrease by knitting approx. each 9th and 10th stitch together (do not decrease over the edge stitches).

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START THE PIECE HERE:

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VEST – SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE:
The piece is worked back and forth in sections and sewn together to finish. Stitches are knitted up for the ribbed edges around the armholes and neck.

BACK PIECE:
Cast on 88-96-104-116-128-144 stitches with circular needle size 3.5 mm = US 4 and Sky. Purl 1 row (= wrong side). The next row is worked as follows from the right side: 5 edge stitches in GARTER STITCH – read description above, * 2 stitches in stockinette stitch, 2 stitches in garter stitch *, work from *-* until there are 7 stitches left, 2 stitches in stockinette stitch and finish with 5 edge stitches in garter stitch. Continue like this for 3 cm = 1 1/8”. Now knit 1 row from the right side, where you decrease 8-8-8-10-10-14 stitches evenly spaced – read DECREASE TIP = 80-88-96-106-118-130 stitches. Purl 1 row from the wrong side. Change to circular needle size 4.5 mm = US 7.
Work stockinette stitch back and forth with 5 edge stitches in garter stitch on each side. REMEMBER THE KNITTING GAUGE! When the piece measures 34-35-36-37-38-39 cm = 13 3/8”-13 3/4”-14 1/4”-14 1/2”-15”-15 1/4”, bind off for the armholes at the beginning of each row on each side as follows: Bind off 4-5-6-7-8-9 stitches 1 time, 2 stitches 0-1-2-3-4-6 times and 1 stitch 2-2-2-3-5-5 times = 68-70-72-74-76-78 stitches. Continue back and forth with stockinette stitch and 1 edge stitch in garter stitch on each side.
When the piece measures 50-52-54-56-58-60 cm = 19 3/4"-20 1/2"-21 1/4"-22"-22 3/4"-23 5/8", bind off the middle 30-30-32-32-34-34 stitches for the neck and each shoulder is finished separately. Continue by binding off 1 stitch on the next row from the neck = 18-19-19-20-20-21 stitches left on the shoulder. Continue with stockinette stitch and 1 edge stitch in garter stitch on each side until the piece measures 20-21-22-23-24-25 cm = 8”-8 1/4”-8 3/4”-9”-9 1/2”-9 3/4” from where stitches were first bind off for the armhole. Bind off with knit (make sure the bind-off edge is not tight).
The piece measures a total of 54-56-58-60-62-64 cm = 21 1/4"-22"-22 3/4"-23 5/8"-24 3/8"-25 1/4" from the shoulder down. Work the other shoulder in the same way.

FRONT PIECE:
Cast on 88-96-104-116-128-144 stitches with circular needle size 3.5 mm = US 4 and Sky. Purl 1 row (= wrong side). The next row is worked as follows from the right side: 5 edge stitches in garter stitch – read description above, * 2 stitches in stockinette stitch, 2 stitches in garter stitch *, work from *-* until there are 7 stitches left, 2 stitches in stockinette stitch and finish with 5 edge stitches in garter stitch. Continue like this for 3 cm = 1 1/8”. Now knit 1 row from the right side, where you decrease 8-8-8-10-10-14 stitches evenly spaced = 80-88-96-106-118-130 stitches. Purl 1 row from the wrong side. Change to circular needle size 4.5 mm = US 7.
When the piece measures 34-35-36-37-38-39 cm = 13 3/8”-13 3/4”-14 1/4”-14 1/2”-15”-15 1/4”, bind off for the armholes at the beginning of each row on each side as follows: Bind off 4-5-6-7-8-9 stitches 1 time, 2 stitches 0-1-2-3-4-6 times and 1 stitch 2-2-2-3-5-5 times = 68-70-72-74-76-78 stitches. Continue with stockinette stitch and 1 edge stitch in garter stitch on each side until the piece measures 44-46-47-49-50-52 cm = 17 1/4”-18”-18 1/2”-19”-19 1/4”-19 3/4”-20 1/2”, then place the middle 16-16-18-18-18-18 stitches on 1 thread for the neck and each shoulder is finished separately. Continue by binding off on each row from the neck as follows: Bind off 3 stitches 1 time, 2 stitches 2 times and 1 stitch 1-1-1-1-2-2 times = 18-19-19-20-20-21 stitches left on the shoulder. Continue with stockinette stitch and 1 edge stitch in garter stitch on each side until the piece measures 20-21-22-23-24-25 cm = 8”-8 1/4”-9 3/4”-9”-9 1/2”-9 3/4” from where stitches were first bind off for the armhole. Bind off with knit (make sure the bind-off edge is not tight).
The piece measures a total of 54-56-58-60-62-64 cm = 21 1/4"-22"-22 3/4"-23 5/8"-24 3/8"-25 1/4" from the shoulder down. Work the other shoulder in the same way.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew the shoulder seams with grafting stitches inside the bind-off edge. Start under the sleeve and sew the side seam in the outermost loop of the outermost stitch so the seam is flat – leave approx. 18 cm = 7” for the split. Repeat on the other side.

NECK:
Start from the right side at the one shoulder seam and knit up with short circular needle size 3.5 mm = US 4 approx. 100 to 120 stitches (including the 16-16-18-18-18-18 stitches on the thread) inside the 1 stitch around the whole neck (number of stitches must be divisible by 4). Work rib (= knit 2/ purl 2) in the round for 2½-3 cm = 7/8”-1 1/8”. Bind off with knit over knit and purl over purl.

EDGE AROUND ARMHOLES:
Start from the right side at the side seam under the sleeve and knit up with short circular needle size 3.5 mm = US 4 approx. 96 to 120 stitches around the armhole (number of stitches must be divisible by 4). Work rib (= knit 2/ purl 2) in the round for 2 cm = 3/4”. Bind off with knit over knit and purl over purl. Work the other edge around armhole in the same way.

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

diagram measurements

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (149)

country flag Kay Greensmith wrote:

Could I use cotton for this pattern please ?

04.03.2024 - 12:07

country flag Vivien Johnston wrote:

I bought 150g yarn to knit the vest and find that using the correct pattern, yarn and needles, the tension is not the same. I am an even tension knitter and feel it needs a bigger needle and more yarn. I see there are previous comments with same problem.

22.02.2024 - 13:53

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Mrs Johnston, you need to get the correct tension to get the correct finished measurements as shown in the chart, ie you need to have 20 sts x 26 rows stocking stitch = 10x 10 cm; adjust needle size if needed. Read more about tension here. Happy knitting!

22.02.2024 - 15:05

country flag Tilly wrote:

Hello. Brand new to knitting, cannot find an answer to which size needle one should use to knit the tension sample on the Rose Blush pattern I am using? Thank you for your help. ;)

12.12.2023 - 10:08

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Tilly, use the larger needle to work the swatch and check your tension. Happy knitting!

12.12.2023 - 13:18

country flag Martine wrote:

Ik brei voor het eerst met Sky en de stekenproef komt veel te klein uit: 25 st op 10 cm met naald 4,5 of 23 st met naalden 5. Met andere garens brei ik gemiddeld. Hoe zou dit komen? Rekt het uit in gebruik? Moet ik het eerst wassen? Adviseert u om nog dikkere naalden te nemen?

02.08.2023 - 23:25

DROPS Design answered:

Dag Martine,

Je kunt gewoon dikkere naalden nemen totdat je op de juiste stekenverhouding zit. Dit kan inderdaad van persoon tot persoon verschillend zijn, zelfs tussen verschillende garens.

03.08.2023 - 21:09

country flag Anne wrote:

Re the Rose Blush vest, front piece: when casting off on each row from the neck edge, it says cast off 3 stitches once then 2 stitches twice. I don’t understand how to cast off 2 stitches twice unless it is done over four rows. Thank you Anne

28.04.2023 - 08:39

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Anne, this will be worked over 4 rows, you have to cast off as follows: cast off 3 sts at the beginning of row from neck, continue row to the end and work row back. Cast off 2 sts at the beg of next row, continue row as before and work row back. Work these 2 rows one more time. (= 2 sts 2 times). Cast off now 1 stitch at the beg of next row from neck; work row to the end, turn and work row back. Work these 2 rows one more time in last 2 sizes. Happy knitting!

28.04.2023 - 10:55

country flag Onny Tiomena wrote:

Hi..what kind of decrease to use after the ribbing?and does it need to lean left or right when decreasing

21.04.2023 - 17:55

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Onny, decrease by knitting 2 together, as explained in the Decrease Tip. Happy knitting!

23.04.2023 - 19:09

country flag Gine wrote:

Bonjour. Tout d’abord merci pour les infos antérieures que vous m’avez fourni. Je suis redu à 52 cm où on dit de mettre 16 m centrales en attente. Doit-on tricoter le début du rang avant de les mettre en attente? Pour la suite doit-on pour terminer chaque épaule séparément et par la suite rabattre les les rangs de quelle façon. 1 fois 3 m est-ce 1 m les trois rang suivant , (2 fois 2 m ?) 1 fois 1 m ? Explication jusqu-à la fin? Un gros merci!

21.03.2023 - 18:10

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Gine, effectivement, vous allez tricoter sur l'endroit ainsi: tricotez les mailles de l'épaule droite et les 16 mailles centrales pour l'encolure et glissez ces 16 mailles en attente sur un fil/un arrêt de mailles. Terminez le rang (épaule droite), tournez et tricotez le rang suivant. Au début du rang suivant (à partir de l'encolure), rabattez 3 m, puis rabattez au début de chaque rang à partir de l'encolure 2 x 2 m et 1 x 1 m; (sur l'endroit pour l'épaule droite, sur l'envers pour l'épaule gauche). Bon tricot!

22.03.2023 - 08:41

country flag Deepanjali wrote:

As the vest is knitted in sections and sewn together to finish, can it be made with regular needles instead of circular needles?

12.03.2023 - 16:50

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Deepanjali, yes, you can use straight needles instead of circular needles. Happy knitting!

12.03.2023 - 17:50

country flag Gine wrote:

Bonjour. Je suis à faire le dos et suis rendu à 35 cm . On demande de rabattre pour les emmanchures. Je ne comprend pas . Doit-on diminuer sur un seul rang? 1 fois 5 m, 1 fois 2 m.et 2 fois 1 m. On dit au début de ch gros. De chaque côté. Pouvez-vous m’expliquer? Merci Gine

11.02.2023 - 00:21

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Gine, on doit rabattre (et non diminuer) au début de chaque rang de chaque côté, autrement dit en début de rang sur l'endroit et en début de rang sur l'envers (pour que les emmanchures soient symétriques), en M: 5 x 1 m (= 1 m au début des 10 rangs suivants) puis 2 m au début des 2 rangs suivants et 2 x 1 m (= 1 m au début des 4 rangs suivants) = vous rabattez 18 m au total, il vous reste 70 mailles. Bon tricot!

13.02.2023 - 08:57

country flag Miranda wrote:

Hello! I have a questions about casting off the armholes. "cast off for the armholes at the beginning of each row on each side: Cast off 4-5-6-7-8-9 sts 1 time, 2 sts 0-1-2-3-4-6 times and 1 stitch 2-2-2-3-5-5 times = 68-70-72-74-76-78 sts." In this instruction, I read that for a size SM, you cast off 4 sts 1 time, then 1 st 2 times. Since I'm starting with 80 sts, That leaves me with 74 sts, but the patterns says I should have 68 at the end?

04.02.2023 - 16:34

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Miranda, you need to cast off once or twice on each side. So cast off 4 stitches once on one side and 4 stitches on the other side. Then, cast off 1 stitch on each side twice (so, cast off 4 more stitches). 4+4+4 = 12 cast-off stitches. 80-12 = 68 stitches. Happy knitting!

06.02.2023 - 00:14