Retro beauty by DROPS Design

Knitted sweater with round yoke in DROPS Sky. The piece is worked top down with multi-colored pattern. Sizes S - XXXL.

DROPS Design: Pattern no sk-083
Yarn group B
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SIZES:
S - M - L - XL - XXL – XXXL

Finished measurements:
Chest measurements: 92-100-108-118-130-142 cm = 36 1/4”-39 3/8”-42 1/2”-46 1/2”-51 1/4”-55 3/4”
Full length: 56-58-60-62-64-60 cm = 22"-22 3/4"-23 5/8"-24 3/8"-25 1/4"-23 5/8”

All measurements in charts are in cm.

MATERIALS:
DROPS SKY from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group B)
200-250-250-300-300-350 g color 15, light mint
50-50-50-50-50-50 g color 01, white
50-50-50-50-50-50 g color 19, brick
50-50-50-50-50-50 g color 16, lemon
50-50-50-50-50-50 g color 18, dusty pink
50-50-50-50-50-50 g color 06, sea green

KNITTING GAUGE:
20 stitches in width and 26 rows in height with stockinette stitch = 10 x 10 cm = 4” x 4”.

NEEDLES:
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 4.5 MM = US 7.
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 4.5 MM = US 7: Length 40 cm = 16” and 80 cm = 32” for stockinette stitch.
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 3.5 MM = US 4.
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 3.5 MM = US 4: Length 60 cm = 24” and 80 cm = 32” for rib.
Needle size is only a guide. If you get too many stitches on 10 cm = 4”, change to a larger needle size. If you get too few stitches on 10 cm = 4”, change to a smaller needle size.

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Knitting tension – See how to measure it and why here
Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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74% Alpaca, 18% Polyamide, 8% Wool
from 8.40 $ /50g
DROPS Sky uni colour DROPS Sky uni colour 8.40 $ /50g
Purple Sheep Yarns
Order
DROPS Sky mix DROPS Sky mix 8.40 $ /50g
Purple Sheep Yarns
Order
needles DROPS Needles & Hooks Order
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 75.60$. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
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EXPLANATIONS FOR THE PATTERN:

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PATTERN:
See diagram A.1. The pattern is worked in stockinette stitch. See diagram for your size.

INCREASE/DECREASE TIP (evenly spaced):
To work out how to increase/decrease evenly, count the total number of stitches on needle (e.g. 96 stitches) and divide by the number of increases/decreases to be made (e.g. 36) = 2.6.
In this example, increase by making 1 yarn over after alternately each 2nd and 3rd stitch (approx.). On the next row work the yarn overs twisted to avoid holes. When decreasing, work together approx. each 2nd and 3rd stitch.

DECREASE TIP (for sleeves):
Decrease 1 stitch on each side of the marker thread as follows: Work until there are 3 stitches left before the marker thread, knit 2 together, knit 2 (marker thread sits between these 2 stitches), slip 1 stitch as if to knit, knit 1 and pass the slipped stitch over the knitted stitch.

BINDING-OFF TIP:
To avoid the bind-off edge being tight you can bind off with a larger size needle. If the edge is still tight, make 1 yarn over after approx. each 4th stitch at the same time as binding off and the yarn overs are bind off as normal stitches.
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START THE PIECE HERE:

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SWEATER – SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE:
The neck and yoke are worked in the round with circular needle, top down from mid back. The yoke is divided for body and sleeves and the body continued in the round with circular needle. The sleeves are worked in the round with short circular needle/double pointed needles, top down. The neck is folded double and sewn down on the inside of the sweater to finish.

NECK:
Cast on 92-96-100-106-110-116 stitches with circular needle size 3.5 mm = US 4 and lemon. Knit 1 round, then work rib (knit 1 / purl 1) for 9 cm = 3 1/2”. Insert 1 marker thread here; the piece is now measured from this thread.

YOKE:
Change to circular needle size 4.5 mm = US 7 and continue working according to A.1. Increase evenly spaced on each round with an arrow as follows – read INCREASE/DECREASE TIP.
ARROW 1: Increase 34-36-38-44-46-52 stitches = 126-132-138-150-156-168 stitches on the round.
ARROW 2: Increase 36-36-36-42-42-48 stitches = 162-168-174-192-198-216 stitches on the round.
ARROW 3: Increase 30-30-36-42-42-48 stitches = 192-198-210-234-240-264 stitches on the round.
ARROW 4: Increase 24-30-34-38-40-40 stitches = 216-228-244-272-280-304 stitches on the round.
ARROW 5: Increase 24-28-36-32-40-40 stitches = 240-256-280-304-320-344 stitches on the round.
ARROW 6: Increase 24-24-24-32-32-40 stitches = 264-280-304-336-352-384 stitches on the round.
ARROW 7: Increase 16-24-24-28-36-28 stitches = 280-304-328-364-388-412 stitches on the round.
When A.1 has been completed 1 time in height, continue with light mint until the piece measures 20-20-21-23-25-27 cm = 8”-8”-8 1/4”-9”-9 3/4”-10 5/8” from the marker thread. REMEMBER THE KNITTING GAUGE!

The next round is worked as follows:
Work the first 42-46-49-54-59-64 stitches (= half back piece), place the next 56-60-66-74-76-78 stitches on a thread for the sleeve and cast on 8-8-10-10-12-14 new stitches on the needle (= in side under the sleeve), work the next 84-92-98-108-118-128 stitches (= front piece), place the next 56-60-66-74-76-78 stitches on a thread for the sleeve and cast on 8-8-10-10-12-14 new stitches on the needle (= in side under the sleeve), work the remaining 42-46-49-54-59-64 stitches (= half back piece). Body and sleeves are finished separately. THE PIECE IS NOW MEASURED FROM HERE!

BODY:
= 184-200-216-236-260-284 stitches. Work stockinette stitch in the round with light mint. When the piece measures 29-31-32-32-32-32 cm = 10 3/8”-12 1/4”-12 1/2”-12 1/2”-12 1/2”-12 1/2” from the division change to circular needle size 3.5 mm = US 4 and work rib (= knit 1 / purl 1) for 4 cm = 1 1/2”. Bind off with knit over knit and purl over purl. Make sure the bind-off edge is not tight – read BINDING-OFF TIP. The sweater measures approx. 56-58-60-62-64-66 cm = 22"-22 3/4"-23 5/8"-24 3/8"-25 1/4"-26" from the shoulder down.

SLEEVE:
Place the 56-60-66-74-76-78 stitches from the thread on the one side of the piece on short circular needle/double pointed needles size 4.5 mm = US 7 and knit up 1 stitch in each of the 8-8-10-10-12-14 stitches cast on under the sleeve = 64-68-76-84-88-92 stitches. Insert a marker thread in the middle of the 8-8-10-10-12-14 stitches under the sleeve and start the round here. Work stockinette stitch in the round.
When the piece measures 4 cm = 1 1/2” from the division decrease 2 stitches mid under the sleeve – read DECREASE TIP. Decrease like this every 10-10-5-3-3-3 cm = 4”-4”-2”-1 1/8”-1 1/8”-1 1/8” a total of 2-2-4-6-6-6 times = 60-64-68-72-76-80 stitches. Continue working until the piece measures 38-38-38-36-34-33 cm = 15”-15”-15”-14 1/4”-13 3/8”-13” from the division (shorter measurements in larger sizes due to longer yoke). Knit 1 round where you decrease 16-20-20-24-24-24 stitches evenly spaced – read INCREASE/DECREASE TIP = 44-44-48-48-52-56 stitches. Change to double pointed needles size 3.5 mm = US 4 and work rib (= knit 1 / purl 1) for 4 cm = 1 1/2”. The sleeve measures approx. 42-42-42-40-38-37 cm = 16 1/2”-16 1/2”-16 1/2”-15 3/4”-15”-14 1/2” from the division. Bind off with knit over knit and purl over purl. Make sure the bind-off edge is not tight – remember BINDING-OFF TIP.

ASSEMBLY:
Fold the top of the rib to the inside of the neck and fasten down. To avoid the neck being tight or turning outwards, it is important that the seam is elastic and not tight.

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

symbols = lemon
symbols = white
symbols = light mint
symbols = brick
symbols = sea green
symbols = dusty pink
diagram
diagram

Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 210-6) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

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Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

We have also step-by-step guides for different techniques which you'll find here.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (25)

country flag Hélène R wrote:

Est-ce que ce serait une bonne idée de faire une élévation derrière le cou pour ce modèle?

12.04.2022 - 03:31

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Helene, bien sur. Bon tricot!

12.04.2022 kl. 08:49

country flag Ella wrote:

Ik begrijp niet hoe de meerdering werkt waar het patroon van 6 naar 8 steken gaat, dus tussen pijl 4 en 5.

22.01.2022 - 10:49

DROPS Design answered:

Dag Ella,

Op pijl 4 heeft het telpatroon 6 steken in de breedte die je steeds herhaalt. Het komt er op neer dat je dan de hele naald in licht mint breit. Verdeeld oever de gehele toer meerder je steken. Op het stukje tussen pijl 4 en pijl 5 is het telpatroon 4 steken breed en deze steken herhaal je steeds tot je weer aan het begin van de toer bent. Op pijl 5 heeft het telpatroon 8 steken in de breedte in steenrood en hier geldt weer hetzelfde als op pijl 4: de meerderingen verdeeld op de toer maken. Na pijl 5 heb je meer steken op de naald, dus meer herhalingen van 8 steken.

24.01.2022 kl. 20:29

country flag Barbara wrote:

Ich würde mir mehr Pullover wünschen, auch für Kinder, im Stil von Retro Beauty, dann könnte ich all meine vielen Wollreste mit verarbeiten. Ethnic Style, vielleicht in Ocker, Rostbraun usw. und auch geometrisch würde mir sehr gefallen. Ansonsten finde ich Eure Website großartig, habe schon viel Fabel verstrickt.

15.12.2021 - 23:16

country flag Anne Mary wrote:

Jeg Har Tenkt å Strikke I Brushed Alpacca Silke. Går Det Bra?

26.03.2021 - 08:42

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Anne Mary, DROPS Sky tilhører garngruppe B og Brushed Alpaca silk tilhører garngruppe C så den er lidt tykkere. Prøv at lave en strikkeprøve hvor 20 masker og 26 pinde = 10x10 cm, så kan du selv se om du synes om strukturen :)

26.03.2021 kl. 13:51

country flag šárka Kubánková wrote:

Dobrý den, je mi velice divné, že se přidává na podpaží nejdříve vlatstně na předním díle a na druhé podpaží na zadním díle. Skutečně to tak má být? děkuji

19.02.2021 - 12:37

country flag Anna Maskova wrote:

Dobry den, Nemohu se docist kolik prize se potrebuje na velikost M. Mohli byste mi to upresnit? Dekuji

14.02.2021 - 18:09

DROPS Design answered:

Dobrý den, Anno, spotřebu uvádíme vždy v hlavičce návodu, spolu s dalšími důležitými informacemi (velikost jelic, zkušební vzorek a pod.). Množství potřebné příze je rozepsáno ve stejném pořadí, v jakém jsou zapsány jednotlivé velikosti (tento systém platí v celém návdu, tedy i pro počty ok atd.). Pro velikost M platí tedy vždy druhý údaj zleva, potřebujete tedy: 250 g, barva č. 15, světlá mint a po 50 g od každé z dalších barev. Hodně zdaru! Hana

15.02.2021 kl. 07:13

country flag DROUET wrote:

Bonjour, Doit-on repasser le pull une fois terminé ? je ne l'ai pas fait, et les manches et le corps ont rétréci. Merci de votre aide.

15.01.2021 - 17:26

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Drouet, suivez bien les indications des étiquettes, DROPS Sky ne doit pas être repassée par exemple (si c'est elle que vous avez utilisé) - retrouvez plus d'astuces sur l'entretien des fils en général ici. Bon tricot!

18.01.2021 kl. 07:45

country flag Suzanne Marks wrote:

Is the tension for this pattern correct? It doesn’t match the tension on the ball band and when I knit the pattern swatch, to get the tension as stated in the pattern it has a much more open texture than the picture shown.

01.11.2020 - 12:59

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Suzanne, the tension for the pattern is correct. The ball band tension is 21x28 and in the pattern it's 20x26, so it's quite similar (they don't have to be identical, since you can make a garment with the same yarn with a more open or tight texture). The tension is calculated by working in stocking stitch and not the multi-colored pattern, perhaps that's the difference. If that's not it, you could try using a smaller needle. Happy knitting!

01.11.2020 kl. 16:16

country flag Lebon wrote:

Bonjour, je me demandais si on pouvait commencer par le bas car je n'ai pas d'aiguilles circulaire et comment faire pour debuter merci

15.04.2020 - 13:23

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Lebon, vous trouverez ici comment adapter un modèle sur aiguilles droites - pour le tricoter de bas en haut, il suffit peut être de prendre les instructions en sens inverse - n'hésitez pas à contacter votre magasin DROPS pour toute assistance complémentaire et pour tous les ajustements nécessaires. Bon tricot!

15.04.2020 kl. 14:34

country flag Strickerin wrote:

Die Größe M entspricht leider eher S

14.04.2020 - 19:10

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