DROPS / 204 / 55

Business Ready by DROPS Design

Knitted hat, shawl and gloves in DROPS Nord. The whole set is worked with textured pattern and lace pattern.

DROPS Design: Pattern no no-031
Yarn group A
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WHOLE SET:

SIZES:
HAT:
S/M - L/XL
Fits head size: 54/56 - 58/60 cm = 21 1/4”/22” – 22 3/4”-23 5/8”
SHAWL: One-size
Height: Measured down the middle = approx. 43 cm = 17”.
Width: Measured along the top = approx. 120 cm = 47 1/4”.
GLOVES:
S/M - L/XL

MATERIALS:
DROPS NORD from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group A)
200-250 g color 16, jeans blue

HAT:

SIZES:
S/M - L/XL
Fits head size: approx. 54/56 - 58/60 cm = 21 1/4”/22” – 22 3/4”-23 5/8”

MATERIALS:
DROPS NORD from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group A)
50-50 g color 16, jeans blue

KNITTING GAUGE:
24 stitches in width and 32 rows in height with stockinette stitch and pattern = 10 x 10 cm = 4” x 4”.

NEEDLES:
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 3 MM = US 2,5.
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 3 MM = US 2,5: Length 40 cm = 16”.
Needle size is only a guide. If you get too many stitches on 10 cm = 4”, change to a larger needle size. If you get too few stitches on 10 cm = 4”, change to a smaller needle size.

SHAWL:

SIZE:
Height: Measured down the middle = approx. 43 cm = 17”.
Width: Measured along the top = approx. 120 cm = 47 1/4”.
MATERIALS:
DROPS NORD from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group A)
150 g color 16, jeans blue

KNITTING GAUGE:
23 stitches in width and 30 rows in height with stockinette stitch and pattern = 10 x 10 cm = 4” x 4”.

NEEDLES:
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 3.5 MM = US 4: Length 80 cm = 32”.
Needle size is only a guide. If you get too many stitches on 10 cm = 4”, change to a larger needle size. If you get too few stitches on 10 cm = 4”, change to a smaller needle size.

GLOVES:

SIZES:
S/M - L/XL

MATERIALS:
DROPS NORD from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group A)
50-50 g color 16, jeans blue

KNITTING GAUGE:
26 stitches in width and 34 rows in height with stockinette stitch and pattern = 10 x 10 cm = 4” x 4”.

NEEDLES:
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 2.5 MM = US 1,5.
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 2.5 MM = US 1,5: Length 40 cm = 16”.
Needle size is only a guide. If you get too many stitches on 10 cm = 4”, change to a larger needle size. If you get too few stitches on 10 cm = 4”, change to a smaller needle size.

DROPS MOTHER OF PEARL BUTTONS, Engraved NO 525: 4-4 items.

Have you knitted/crocheted this or any other of our designs? Tag your pictures in social media with #dropsdesign so we can see them!

Want to use a different yarn? Try our yarn converter!
Not sure which size you should choose? Then it might help you to know that the model in the picture is approx. 5 ft 7 in and uses size S or M. If you are making a sweater, cardigan, dress or similar garment, you will find a graphic with the measurements of the finished garment (in cm) at the bottom of the pattern.

45% Alpaca, 30% Polyamide, 25% Wool
from 3.60 $ /50g
DROPS Nord uni colour DROPS Nord uni colour 3.60 $ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
Order
DROPS Nord mix DROPS Nord mix 3.70 $ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
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DROPS Needles & Hooks
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 14.40$. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
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EXPLANATIONS FOR THE PATTERN:

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RIDGE/GARTER STITCH (worked in the round):
1 ridge in height = 2 rounds; Knit 1 round and purl 1 round.

RIDGE/GARTER STITCH (worked back and forth):
Knit all rows.
1 ridge in height = Knit 2 rows.
PATTERN:
Hat: See diagram A.1.
Shawl: See diagrams A.2A, A.2B and A.2C.
Gloves: See diagram A.3. Choose diagram for your size.
The diagrams show all rows in the pattern seen from the right side!

DECREASE TIP (for hat):
Decrease as follows after the marker thread: Knit the first stitch after the marker thread, slip 1 stitch as if to knit, knit 1 and pass the slipped stitch over the knitted stitch (= 1 stitch decreased).
Decrease as follows before the marker thread: Work until there are 3 stitches left before the marker thread, knit 2 together, knit 1 (= 1 stitch decreased).

BINDING-OFF TIP (elastic binding off – for shawl).
Bind off with knit from the right side as follows: Knit 2, * insert the left needle into the 2 stitches on the right needle, from left to right and knit them together, knit 1 *, work from *-* until there is 1 stitch left on the right needle.
Cut the strand and pull it through the last stitch. Binding off like this will give you an elastic edge.

BUTTONHOLES (for gloves):
Left glove: Work until there are 3 stitches left on the row, make 1 yarn over, knit 2 together and finish with knit 1. On the next row knit the yarn over to leave a hole.
Right glove: Knit 1, knit 2 twisted together, make 1 yarn over and knit to end of row. On the next row knit the yarn over to leave a hole.

INCREASE TIP (for thumb-gusset on gloves):
Start before the stitch with the marker, make 1 yarn over, knit 1 (= stitch with marker), 1 yarn over (= 2 stitches increased). On the next round knit the yarn overs twisted to avoid holes. On the next increase work in the same way on each side of the stitch with the marker.

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START THE PIECE HERE:

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HAT – SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE:
The piece is worked in the round with short circular needle, bottom up. Change to double pointed needles when necessary.

HAT:
Cast on 116-124 stitches with circular needle size 3 mm = US 2,5 and Nord. Work GARTER STITCH – read description above, in the round for 3 cm = 1 1/8” – finish after a knitted round. The next round is worked as follows: Work 3-7 stitches in stockinette stitch, work A.1 (= 55 stitches), 3-7 stitches in stockinette stitch and A.1 (= 55 stitches). Continue this pattern. REMEMBER THE KNITTING GAUGE!
When A.1 has been completed, continue with stockinette stitch in the round until the piece measures 19-21 cm = 7 1/2”-8 1/4”.
Now insert 4 marker threads in the piece as follows: Knit 1, * insert 1 marker thread before the next stitch, knit 29-31 *, work from *-* a total of 3 times, insert 1 marker thread before the next stitch and knit the remaining 28-30 stitches.
On the next round decrease 1 stitch on each side of all 4 marker threads – read DECREASE TIP (= 8 stitches decreased). Decrease like this every 2nd round a total of 8 times and then every round a total of 4 times = 20-28 stitches left.
On the next round knit all stitches together 2 and 2 = 10-14 stitches left.
Cut the strand, pull it through the remaining stitches, tighten and fasten well. The hat measures approx. 25-27 cm = 9 3/4”-10 5/8” from the top down.

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SHAWL - SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE:
To make room for all the stitches the piece is worked back and forth using circular needle and is worked from the top down.

SHAWL:
Cast on 7 stitches with short circular needle size 3.5 mm = US 4 and 2 strands Nord. Insert 1 marker thread in the 4th stitch on the row (= mid-stitch) and allow it to follow your work onwards.
Work as follows: 2 edge stitches in GARTER STITCH – read description above, A.2A over 1 stitch, A.2B over 1 stitch (= mid-stitch), A.2C over 1 stitch and finish with 2 edge stitches in garter stitch = 11 stitches on the row. Remove one of the strands and work the rest of the shawl with 1 strand Nord as follows:
Continue with A.2A and A.2C on each side of the mid-stitch (A.2B).
When the diagrams have been worked 1 time in height there are 41 stitches on the needle (20 stitches on each side of the mid-stitch). Continue the increases in the same way as before, with stockinette stitch before the mid-stitch, textured pattern after the mid-stitch and 2 edge stitches in garter stitch on each side. REMEMBER THE KNITTING GAUGE!
When the piece measures approx. 40 cm = 15 3/4” down the mid-stitch – adjust so the next row is worked from the right side, work 2 rows of stockinette stitch over all stitches (apart from the 2 edge stitches in garter stitch) and with increases as before.
Then work garter stitch back and forth over all stitches AT THE SAME TIME as increases on each side and on both sides of the mid-stitch continue as before.
When the garter stitch edge measures 3 cm = 1 1/8” down the mid-stitch bind off with knit from the right side – read BINDING-OFF TIP!

TASSEL:
Sew a tassel on each side of the shawl.
1 tassel = cut 30 strands of Nord, of length 22 cm = 8 3/4”. Fold the strands double with 2 strands of approx. 10 cm = 4” in the fold (these are used to fasten the tassel to the shawl). Wind 1 strand several times around the tassel, approx. 1½ cm= 1/2” from the top and tie a strong knot. Sew the tassel onto one side of the shawl. Make 1 more tassel and sew onto the other side.

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GLOVES - SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE:
The cuffs are worked first, back and forth with circular needle, bottom up. Then the stitches are divided on double pointed needles and the glove is finished in the round.

LEFT GLOVE:
Cast on 52-58 stitches with circular needle size 2.5 mm = US 1,5 and Nord. Work GARTER STITCH back and forth – read description above. When the piece measures 3 and 5 cm = 1 1/8” and 2”, work BUTTONHOLES at the end of the row – read description above. When the piece measures 6 cm = 2 3/8” insert 1 marker thread after the first 28-31 stitches on the row (seen from the right side = 24-27 stitches after the marker thread). Cut the strand. THE PIECE IS NOW MEASURED FROM HERE!
Divide the stitches on 4 double pointed needles so the beginning of the round is at the marker thread (= inside of hand). Work in the round from the marker thread as follows: Knit 20-23 stitches, place the 4 stitches which were the first 4 stitches on the row when you were working back and forth, under the next 4 stitches and knit these stitches together 2 and 2, then knit to end of round = 48-54 stitches. Knit 1 round.
The next round is worked as follows: Knit 6-5 stitches, work A.3 (= 37-45 stitches), knit 5-4 stitches. Continue this pattern. REMEMBER THE KNITTING GAUGE!
When the piece measures 1-2 cm = 3/8”-3/4” from the marker thread, insert 1 marker in the last stitch on the round. On the next round increase for the thumb-gusset on each side of the stitch with the marker – read INCREASE TIP. Increase like this every 3rd round a total of 5-6 times = 11-13 thumb-gusset stitches and a total of 58-66 stitches on the round. Continue working until the piece measures 6-7 cm = 2 3/8”-2 3/4” from the marker thread. On the next round place the 11-13 thumb-gusset stitches + 1 stitch on each side of these stitches on a thread (= 13-15 stitches on the thread) and cast on 3 new stitches over the stitches on the thread = 48-54 stitches. Continue in the round as before.
When the piece measures 11-13 cm = 4 3/8”-5 1/8” from the marker thread, place the first 19-21 stitches on back of hand on a thread, keep the next 11-12 stitches on the needle and place the last 18-21 stitches on inside of hand on another thread.

PINKY:
= 11-12 stitches, cast on 1 new stitch towards the stitches on the threads = 12-13 stitches. Work stockinette stitch in the round for 5½ -6½ cm = 2 1/8”-2 1/2” (or to desired length), then knit all stitches together 2 and 2. Cut the strand, pull it through the remaining stitches, tighten and fasten well.

HAND:
Place the stitches from the threads back on the needles and knit up 2 stitches towards the pinky = 39-44 stitches. Work 2 rounds of stockinette stitch. Keep the 2 new stitches knitted up towards the little finger + 6-6 stitches on back of hand and 5-6 stitches on inside of hand on the needles. Place the other 26-30 stitches back on their threads (= 13-15 stitches on back of hand and 13-15 stitches on inside of hand).

RING FINGER:
= 13-14 stitches, cast on 1 new stitch towards the stitches on the threads = 14-15 stitches. Work stockinette stitch in the round for approx. 7-8 cm = 2 3/4”-3 1/8” (or to desired length), then knit all stitches together 2 and 2. Cut the strand, pull it through the remaining stitches, tighten and fasten well.

MIDDLE FINGER:
Place the next 6-7 stitches from each thread back on the needles and knit up 2 stitches towards the ring finger and cast on 1 new stitch towards the stitches on the threads = 15-17 stitches. Work stockinette stitch in the round for approx. 7½-8½ cm = 2 7/8”- 3 3/8” (or to desired length), then knit all stitches together 2 and 2. Cut the strand, pull it through the remaining stitches, tighten and fasten well.

INDEX FINGER:
Place the remaining 14-16 stitches from each thread back on the needles and knit up 2 stitches towards the middle finger = 16-18 stitches. Work stockinette stitch in the round for approx. 6½-7½ cm = 2 1/2”-2 7/8” (or to desired length), then knit all stitches together 2 and 2. Cut the strand, pull it through the remaining stitches, tighten and fasten well.

THUMB:
Place the stitches from the thumb-gusset back on the needles and knit up 3 stitches along the edge behind the thumb = 16-18 stitches. Work stockinette stitch in the round for approx.5½-6 cm = 2 1/8”-2 3/8” (or to desired length), then knit all stitches together 2 and 2. Cut the strand, pull it through the remaining stitches, tighten and fasten well.

RIGHT GLOVE:
Cast on 52-58 stitches with circular needle size 2.5 mm = US 1,5 and Nord and work garter stitch back and forth. When the piece measures 3 and 5 cm = 1 1/8” and 2”, work BUTTONHOLES at the end of the row – read description above. When the piece measures 6 cm = 2 3/8” insert 1 marker thread after the first 24-27 stitches on the row (seen from the right side = 28-31 stitches after the marker thread). Cut the strand.
Divide the stitches on 4 double pointed needles so the beginning of the round is at the marker thread (= inside of hand). Work in the round from the marker as follows: Knit 20-23 stitches, place the 4 stitches which were the last 4 stitches on the row when you were working back and forth under the next 4 stitches and knit these stitches together 2 and 2, then knit to end of round = 48-54 stitches. Knit 1 round.
The next round is worked as follows: Knit 5-4 stitches, work A.3 (= 37-45 stitches), knit 6-5 stitches. Continue this pattern.
When the piece measures 1-2 cm = 3/8”-3/4” from the marker thread insert 1 marker in the first stitch on the round. On the next round increase for the thumb-gusset on each side of the stitch with the marker, in the same way as on the left glove. Increase like this every 3rd round a total of 5-6 times = 11-13 thumb-gusset stitches and a total of 58-66 stitches on the round. Continue working until the piece measures 6-7 cm = 2 3/8”-2 3/4” from the marker thread. On the next round place the 11-13 thumb-gusset stitches + 1 stitch on each side of these stitches on a thread (= 13-15 stitches on the thread) and cast on 3 new stitches over the stitches on the thread = 48-54 stitches. Continue in the round as before.
When the piece measures 11-13 cm = 4 3/8”-5 1/8” from the marker thread place the first 18-21 stitches on the inside of the hand on 1 thread, keep the next 11-12 stitches on the needle and place the last 19-21 stitches on back of hand on a thread.
Finish the hand and fingers in the same way as on the left glove.

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

= knit from right side, purl from wrong side
= purl from right side, knit from wrong side
= between 2 stitches make 1 yarn over
= knit 2 together
= slip 1 stitch as if to knit, knit 1 and pass the slipped stitch over the knitted stitch
= slip 1 stitch as if to knit, knit 2 together and pass the slipped stitch over the knitted together stitches
= between 2 stitches make 2 yarn overs; on the next row drop the first yarn over and purl the second to leave a hole
= between 2 stitches make 1 yarn over; on the next row work the yarn over twisted into the pattern to avoid a hole



Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 204-55) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (13)

Carol Lenard 19.01.2020 - 00:04:

Business ready 204-55. how many stitch for small s/m of chart A3 s/m.The first symbol of chart A3 s/m on line one mean.

DROPS Design 20.01.2020 kl. 10:32:

Dear Mrs Lenard, on first row in A.3 size S/M you start with 1 YO, knit 2 together, and finish with slip 1, k1, psso, 1 YO. Happy knitting!

Carol Lenard 18.01.2020 - 04:35:

I can't find the pattern for drop 204.55.show the pattern

DROPS Design 19.01.2020 kl. 00:48:

Dear Carol, the pattern 204-55 is here, and you can find the diagrams for each pattern at the bottom of the page, below the written instructions. Happy Knitting!

Carol Lenard 18.01.2020 - 04:27:

I can't find the pattern for drop 204.55.show the pattern

DROPS Design 19.01.2020 kl. 00:48:

Dear Carol, the pattern 204-55 is here, and you can find the diagrams for each pattern at the bottom of the page, below the written instructions. Happy Knitting!

Renata 19.12.2019 - 14:24:

Dzień dobry, zrobiłam szal i po zakończeniu robótki okazało się, że wykończenie dołu zrobione ściegiem francuskim po stronie z dżersejem wywija się do góry. Tego problemu nie ma po stronie wykonanej ściegiem strukturalnym. Nie jest to pierwszy raz gdy tak mi się tak dzieje, taki sam problem miałam w swetrze Erendis nr bs-108. Co robię źle i jak można to naprawić?

DROPS Design 30.12.2019 kl. 00:42:

Witaj Renato! Radzę zblokować robótkę, tj. namoczyć w letniej wodzie, odcisnąć w ręczniku i rozłożyć do wysuszenia na macie, dywanie, przypinając brzegi co ok. 5 cm szpilkami. Po wysuszeniu powinno wszystko być ok. Powtarzać to samo po każdym praniu. Pozdrawiamy!

Anne BERNARD 21.11.2019 - 14:56:

Merci . Pouvez-vous aussi me détailler les rangs 3,4,5 comme vous me l'avez fait pour les 1 et 2.? C'est plus clair pour moi. Merci 

DROPS Design 21.11.2019 kl. 15:06:

Tricotez les rangs 3 et 4 ainsi: R3: A.2A: 1 double jeté, 1 m end, 1 jeté, 2 m end, 1 double jeté; A.2B: 1 m end; A.2C: 1 double jeté, 2 m end, 1 jeté, 1 m end, 1 double jeté. R4: A.2C: lâchez 1 jeté, tric l'autre à l'env, 1 m end, 1 m env, 2 m end, 1 m env (tric le jeté torse pour éviter un trou) (= 6 m), A.2B (= 1 m env), A.2A: lâchez le 1er jeté, tricotez l'autre à l'env, 4 m env (tric le jeté torse à l'env), lâchez le 1er jeté et tricotez le 2ème à l'envers = 6 m. Continuez de la même façon aux rangs suivants, suivez bien la légende pour vous aider. Les étoiles se tricotent au point mousse, les cases blanches en jersey. Bon tricot!

Anne BERNARD 21.11.2019 - 14:14:

Je suis désolée mais je pense que les rangs envers ne sont pas sur le diagramme pour le châle car ce n'est pas possible de tricoter les jetés comme c'est mis dans les explications et en plus faire la maille à l'endroit sur l'envers. Merci

DROPS Design 21.11.2019 kl. 14:43:

Bonjour Mme Bernard, tricotez les rangs envers comme indiqué dans la légende, par ex. au 1er rang, vous tricotez (= sur l'endroit): A.2A (= 2 jetés, 1 m end, 2 jetés), A.2B (= 1 m end), A.2C (= 2 jetés, 1 m end, 2 jetés). Au 2ème rang, vous tricotez: A.2C (=lâchez le 1er jeté et tricotez le 2ème à l'envers, 1 m env, lâchez le 1er jeté et tricotez le 2ème à l'envers = 3 m), A.2B (= 1 m env), A.2A (= lâchez le 1er jeté et tricotez le 2ème à l'envers, 1 m env, lâchez le 1er jeté et tricotez le 2ème à l'envers = 3 m). Quel rang vous pose problème?

Anne BERNARD 21.11.2019 - 13:12:

Merci de votre réponse mais le chale n'est pas tricoté en rond?

DROPS Design 21.11.2019 kl. 14:01:

Bonjour Mme Bernard, le châle non, mais le bonnet et les gants oui :) Pour le châle, vous lisez simplement le diagramme en rangs = de droite à gauche sur l'endroit et de gauche à droite sur l'envers. Bon tricot!

Anne BERNARD 21.11.2019 - 12:08:

Bonjour Est ce que les rangs impairs sont représentés sur les diagrammes où est ce qu'il tricoter les mailles conne elles se presentes à l'envers? Bonne journée

DROPS Design 21.11.2019 kl. 13:03:

Bonjour Mme Bernard, les diagrammes montrent tous les rangs, vus sur l'endroit. Quand vous les tricotez en rond, lisez-le de droite à gauche tous les tours, quand vous les tricotez en rangs, lisez les rangs sur l'endroit de droite à gauche et ceux sur l'envers de gauche à droite. Bon tricot!

Anne BERNARD 14.11.2019 - 13:19:

Bonjour je voudrais juste savoir si le fils nord est mis en double pour faire le châle? Merci

DROPS Design 14.11.2019 kl. 14:10:

Bonjour Mme Bernard, le châle se tricote avec 1 seul fil DROPS Nord - pensez à bien vérifier votre tension. Bon tricot!

Anna 20.07.2019 - 17:02:

Mi piace questo completo.

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