DROPS / 206 / 29

Holding Hearts by DROPS Design

Knitted sweater in DROPS Big Merino. The piece is worked in stockinette stitch with cables, bobbles and raglan. Sizes S - XXXL.

DROPS Design: Pattern no mb-057
Yarn group C or A + A
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SIZES:
S - M - L - XL - XXL – XXXL

Finished measurements:
Chest measurements: 92-100-108-118-130-142 cm = 36 1/4”-39 3/8”-42 1/2”-46 1/2”-51 1/4”-55 3/4”
Full length: 50-52-54-56-58-60 cm = 19 3/4"-20 1/2"-21 1/4"-22"-22 3/4"-23 5/8"

All measurements in chart are in cm.

MATERIALS:
DROPS BIG MERINO from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group C)
550-600-650-750-800-900 g color 19, beige

KNITTING GAUGE:
16 stitches in width and 20 rows in height with stockinette stitch = 10 x 10 cm = 4” x 4”.
The whole of A.2 measures approx. 24 cm = 9 1/2” in width.

NEEDLES:
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 5.5 MM = US 9.
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 5.5 MM = US 9: Length 40 cm = 16” and 80 cm = 32” for stockinette stitch/pattern.
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 4.5 MM = US 7.
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 4.5 MM = US 7: Length 40 cm = 16” and 80 cm = 32” for rib.
DROPS CABLE NEEDLE – for cables.
Needle size is only a guide. If you get too many stitches on 10 cm = 4”, change to a larger needle size. If you get too few stitches on 10 cm = 4”, change to a smaller needle size.

Have you knitted/crocheted this or any other of our designs? Tag your pictures in social media with #dropsdesign so we can see them!

Want to use a different yarn? Try our yarn converter!
Not sure which size you should choose? Then it might help you to know that the model in the picture is approx. 5 ft 7 in and uses size S or M. If you are making a sweater, cardigan, dress or similar garment, you will find a graphic with the measurements of the finished garment (in cm) at the bottom of the pattern.

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DROPS Big Merino mix DROPS Big Merino mix 4.20 $ /50g
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Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
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EXPLANATIONS FOR THE PATTERN:

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PATTERN:
See diagrams A.1 and A.2.

DECREASE/INCREASE TIP (evenly spaced):
To work out how to decrease/increase evenly, count the total number of stitches to be decreased/increased over (e.g. 78 stitches), and divide by the number of decreases/increases to be made (e.g. 10) = 7.8. In this example, decrease by knitting together approx. each 7th and 8th stitch.
When increasing, make 1 yarn over after approx. each 8th stitch. On the next row knit the yarn overs twisted to avoid holes.

INCREASE TIP (for sides of body and mid under sleeves):
Start 2 stitches before the marker thread, 1 yarn over, knit 4 (marker thread sits between these 4 stitches), 1 yarn over (2 stitches increased). On the next round knit the yarn overs twisted to avoid holes. Then work the new stitches in stockinette stitch.

RAGLAN:
Decrease to raglan on each side of the 4 markers in each transition between body and sleeves as follows (i.e. a total of 8 stitches decreased on each decrease-round):
Work as follows after the markers: Knit 1, slip 1 stitch as if to knit, knit 1 and pass the slipped stitch over the knitted stitch (1 stitch decreased).
Work as follows before the markers: Start 3 stitches before the marker and knit 2 together, knit 1 (1 stitch decreased).

KNITTING TIP:
Repeat A.2B as far as possible up towards the neck in front. Parts of the pattern are decreased as you decrease to raglan. To get a neat finish to A.2B mid front, finish the middle cable with bobbles (i.e. the middle 16 stitches) after a complete repeat in height (minus the last row in the diagram) when there is no longer room for a complete repeat in height before the raglan decreases are finished. Then purl the middle 16 stitches to finished length.

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START THE PIECE HERE:

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SWEATER – SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE:
The piece is worked in the round with circular needle, bottom up as far as the armholes. Then the sleeves are worked in the round with double pointed needles/short circular needle, bottom up. Body and sleeves are then placed on the same circular needle and the yoke completed in the round.

BODY:
Cast on 162-178-198-218-234-258 stitches with circular needle size 4.5 mm = US 7 and Big Merino. Knit 1 round. Insert 1 marker thread at the beginning of the round and 1 marker thread after 78-86-98-110-118-134 stitches to mark the back piece (= 84-92-100-108-116-124 stitches between the threads on the front piece – NOTE: The number of stitches on the front and back pieces are different due to the pattern). Allow the threads to follow your work onwards; they will be used when increasing in the sides.
The next round is worked as follows: * Knit 2, purl 2 *, work from *-* over the next 92-104-120-136-148-168 stitches, knit 2 (you have worked 16-20-24-28-32-36 stitches past the marker thread in the side), work A.1A (= 52 stitches), * knit 2, purl 2 *, work from *-* over the remaining 16-20-24-28-32-36 stitches on the round.
Continue this rib until A.1A is finished. The next round is worked as follows: Knit the first 78-86-98-110-118-134 stitches (i.e. the stitches between the marker threads on the back piece) and decrease at the same time 10-12-18-22-20-26 stitches evenly spaced over these stitches – read DECREASE/INCREASE TIP, knit the next 16-20-24-28-32-36 stitches and decrease at the same time 1-2-3-3-2-1 stitches evenly spaced over these stitches, work A.1B (= 52 stitches) and knit the remaining 16-20-24-28-32-36 stitches and decrease at the same time 1-2-3-3-2-1 stitches evenly spaced over these stitches = 150-162-174-190-210-230 stitches on the needle; i.e. 68-74-80-88-98-108 stitches on the back piece and 82-88-94-102-112-122 stitches on the front piece.
Change to circular needle size 5.5 mm = US 9 and work the next round as follows: Work stockinette stitch over the stitches on the back piece (i.e. as far as the marker thread in the side), work 15-18-21-25-30-35 stitches in stockinette stitch after the marker thread, A.2A (= 52 stitches) and finish with 15-18-21-25-30-35 stitches in stockinette stitch. Continue this pattern. REMEMBER THE KNITTING GAUGE!
When A.2A has been completed, work A.2B over A.2A; the other stitches are continued in stockinette stitch. A.2B is repeated in height upwards. AT THE SAME TIME when the piece measures 8 cm = 3 1/8” in all sizes increase 1 stitch on each side of both marker threads – read INCREASE TIP (= 4 stitches increased). Increase like this every 8 cm = 3 1/8” a total of 3 times in each side = 162-174-186-202-222-242 stitches. Continue working until the piece measures 29 cm = 11 3/8” in all sizes. The next round is worked as follows: Bind off 3-3-4-4-5-5 stitches for the armhole, work stockinette stitch as before over the next 68-74-78-86-94-104 stitches (i.e. until there are 3-3-4-4-5-5 stitches left before the marker thread in the side), bind off 6-6-8-8-10-10 stitches for the armhole, work stockinette stitch and pattern as before over the next 82-88-92-100-108-118 stitches and bind off the remaining 3-3-4-4-5-5 stitches for the armhole. Lay the piece to one side and work the sleeves as described below.

SLEEVE:
Cast on 36-36-40-40-44-48 stitches with double pointed needles size 4.5 mm = US 7 and Big Merino. Knit 1 round, then work rib (= knit 2/ purl 2) for 6 cm = 2 3/8”. Knit 1 round where you increase 4-4-3-4-4-4 stitches evenly spaced – remember DECREASE/INCREASE TIP = 40-40-43-44-48-52 stitches. Insert 1 marker thread at the beginning of the round (= mid under sleeve); allow it to follow your work onwards, it will be used when increasing under the sleeve.
Change to double pointed needles size 5.5 mm = US 9 and work stockinette stitch in the round. When the piece measures 10-8-7-7-9-9 cm = 4”-3 1/8”-2 3/4”-2 3/4”-3 1/2”-3 1/2” increase 2 stitches mid under sleeve – read INCREASE TIP. Increase like this every 6-4-3½-2½-2½-2½ cm = 2 3/8”-1 1/2”-1 1/4”-7/8”-7/8”-7/8” a total of 6-9-10-12-11-11 times = 52-58-63-68-70-74 stitches. Continue working until there is 1 round left before the sleeve measures 44-42-41-39-37-36 cm = 17 1/4”-16 1/2”-16 1/8”-15 1/4”-14 1/2”-14 1/4” (shorter measurements in larger sizes due to longer yoke). The next round is worked as follows: Bind off 3-3-4-4-5-5 stitches for the armhole, knit 46-52-55-60-60-64 stitches and bind off the remaining 3-3-4-4-5-5 stitches for the armhole.
Lay the piece to one side and work the other sleeve in the same way.

YOKE:
Place the sleeves on the same circular needle as the body, where you bind off stitches for armholes (without working the stitches) = 242-266-280-306-322-350 stitches on the needle. Insert 1 marker in each transition between body and sleeve = 4 markers; allow the markers to follow your work upwards, they will be used when decreasing to raglan.
Start the round by the marker at the end of the back piece, before the left sleeve (when the garment is worn). Continue in the round as before with stockinette stitch and A.2B in front (make sure A.2B continues on the right row after you stopped for the sleeves).
When you have worked 4-2-4-4-6-4 rounds, start to decrease to RAGLAN on the next round – read description above = 8 stitches decreased. Decrease like this every 2nd round a total of 16-19-20-22-23-26 times. Read KNITTING TIP! After the last decrease to raglan there are 114-114-120-130-138-142 stitches on the needle. Knit 1 round where you decrease 14-14-15-15-13-12 stitches evenly over the stitches between the markers on the front piece = 100-100-105-115-125-130 stitches left on needle. The sweater measures approx. 50-52-54-56-58-60 cm = 19 3/4"-20 1/2"-21 1/4"-22"-22 3/4"-23 5/8" from the shoulder down. Change to short circular needle size 4.5 mm and work the neck as described below.

NECK:
Work rib in the round (= knit 2/ purl 3) but adjust so you get a knit 2 exactly mid front. When the rib measures 1½ cm = 1/2” decrease every second purl 3 section to purl 2 (decrease 1 stitch by purling 2 together) = 90-90-95-104-113-117 stitches. When the rib measures 3 cm = 1 1/8” decrease the remaining purl 3 sections to purl 2 = 80-80-84-92-100-104 stitches. Continue with rib (knit 2/ purl 2) until the neck measures 4 cm = 1 1/2”. Bind off with knit over knit and purl over purl; make sure the bind-off edge is not tight (you can bind off with a larger needle size if this is a problem).

ASSEMBLY:
Sew the openings under the sleeves.

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

= knit
= purl
= increase 1 stitch by knitting 1 both in front and back of same stitch
= Bobble: Increase 3 stitches by knitting 1 both in front and back of the same stitch until you have 4 stitches, work 4 rows stockinette stitch back and forth over these 4 stitches. Then decrease from the right side as follows: Pass the second stitch on the right needle over the first stitch, pass the third stitch over the first stitch and finally the fourth stitch over the first stitch (= 1 stitch left).
= knit 2 together
= slip 1 stitch as if to knit, knit 1 and pass the slipped stitch over the knitted stitch
= place 1 stitch on the cable needle behind the piece, knit 2, purl 1 from cable needle
= place 2 stitches on the cable needle in front of piece, purl 1, knit 2 from cable needle
= place 1 stitch on the cable needle behind the piece, knit 3, purl 1 from cable needle
= place 3 stitches on the cable needle in front of piece, purl 1, knit 3 from cable needle
= place 3 stitches on the cable needle behind the piece, knit 3, knit 3 from cable needle
= place 3 stitches on the cable needle in front of piece, knit 3, knit 3 from cable needle


Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 206-29) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (14)

Susana 31.12.2019 - 09:48:

Hola! No veo qué medidas se consideran para cada talla en las prendas y me sería de mucha utilidad (quizás no lo se encontrar yo). También además de verla en la modelo sería bueno saber las medidas porque ellas suelen ser altas y delgadas y con frecuencia lo que a les llega a la cadera a nosotras nos resulta bastante más largo o la proporción de los dibujos varía mucho. Muchas gracias.

DROPS Design 09.02.2020 kl. 19:44:

Hola Susana. Para elegir la talla correcta tienes que mirar las medidas que están en el diagrama bajo cada patrón. Siempre viene el largo de la prenda, las medidas del pecho, las medidas de las sisas etc. Si tienes dudas entre dos tallas , siempre recomendamos elegir la talla más grande.

Anna 07.12.2019 - 10:46:

Dzień dobry, w opisie jest "po zakończeniu zamykania oczek na reglan zostaje 114-114-120-130-138-142 oczka. Przerobić 1 okrążenie na prawo, równomiernie zamykając 14-14-15-15-13-12 oczek ponad oczkami przodu między markerami = zostaje 100-100-105-115-125-130 oczek" . Czy te 14 oczek zamykam tylko ponad 46 oczkami przodu ( w rozmiarze S) czy ponad całością (114 oczkami)?

DROPS Design 07.12.2019 kl. 23:10:

Witaj Anno! Zamykasz te oczka tylko ponad oczkami przodu. Pozdrawiamy serdecznie!

Lidia 23.11.2019 - 13:47:

W opisie przy karczku, piszecie, ze po 4 (rozmiar L) okrążeniu zamykamy 8 oczek i później mam zamykać po 8 oczek 20 razy co dwa okrążenia. Czy to znaczy, że 1 rząd przerabiam bez zamykania a w kolejnym zamykam 8 oczek i znów 1 bez zamykania i 1 z zamykaniem, czyli po 40 rzędach uzyskuję pożądaną liczbę oczek? Czy też może w jednym rzędzie zamykam oczka, potem przerabiam dwa rzędy bez zamykania i w kolejnym znów zamykam 8 oczek?

DROPS Design 24.11.2019 kl. 23:22:

Witaj Lidio! W okrążeniu 1 zamykasz 8 oczek, w okrążeniu 2 nie zamykasz oczek, w okrążeniu 3 zamykasz 8 oczek, w okrążeniu 4 nie zamykasz oczek, itd. Po 40 okrążeniach uzyskasz pożądaną liczbę oczek. Powodzenia!

Ellen Groot 23.10.2019 - 17:41:

Wanneer komt dit patroon online? Ik wil zo graag starten maar het duurt zoooo lang.

DROPS Design 23.10.2019 kl. 20:16:

Dag Ellen,

De verwachting is dat hij deze maand online komt, maar ik kan dat niet met 100% zekerheid toezeggen.

Jeanette 22.10.2019 - 10:55:

Very nice patten, I can’t wait to start with it! Nice elegant model!

Ellen 18.10.2019 - 12:48:

Why is it taking so long to post the instructions? I really want to start this one...

Jo Broutin 29.09.2019 - 11:51:

Sobre Irlandais. Tout pour plaire, j'adore ! Jo

Huong 30.08.2019 - 11:52:

Very nice to see this pattern

Monica Andersson 29.08.2019 - 16:42:

Hej När kommer mönstret på denna underbara tröja.

Carol Fraser 29.07.2019 - 23:17:

Something warm and cosy for a lovely walk with the dogs on a winter's day in the highlands were we live .I would call it Celtic Dreams

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