DROPS / 206 / 34

December Moon Jacket by DROPS Design

Knitted jacket with raglan and V-neck in DROPS Lace and DROPS Kid-Silk or DROPS Sky. Size: S - XXXL

DROPS design: Pattern la-039
Yarn group A + A or B
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SIZE:
S - M - L - XL - XXL – XXXL

Finished measurements:
Chest measurements: 88-96-104-112-124-138 cm = 34 5/8”-37 3/4”-41”-44”-48 3/4”-54 1/4”
Full length: 54-56-58-60-62-64 cm = 21 1/4"-22"-22 3/4"-23 5/8"-24 3/8"-25 1/4"

All measurements in chart are in cm.

MATERIALS:
DROPS LACE from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group A)
100-150-150-150-150-200 g color 0100, off white
And use:
DROPS KID-SILK from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group A)
100-100-125-125-150-150 g color 01, off white

Or use:
DROPS SKY from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group B)
250-250-250-300-300-350 g color 01, white

KNITTING GAUGE:
21 stitches in width and 28 rows vertically in stockinette stitch and 1 strand Lace + 1 strand Kid-Silk (= 2 strands) or 1 strand Sky = 10 x 10 cm = 4” x 4”.

NEEDLES:
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 4 mm = US 6
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 4 mm = US 6: Length 40 and 80 cm = 16” and 32” for stockinette stitch.
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 4.5 mm = US 7: For cast-on edge/rolling edge.
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 4.5 mm = US 7: Length 80 cm = 32” for cast-on edge/rolling edge.
Needle size is only a suggestion! If you have too many stitches on 10 cm = 4” switch to larger needles. If you have too few stitches on 10 cm = 4” switch to smaller needles.

DROPS MOTHER-OF-PEARL BUTTON ARCHED (white), NO 521: 5 pieces for all sizes

Have you knitted/crocheted this or any other of our designs? Tag your pictures in social media with #dropsdesign so we can see them!

Want to use a different yarn? Try our yarn converter!
Not sure which size you should choose? Then it might help you to know that the model in the picture is approx. 5 ft 7 in and uses size S or M. If you are making a sweater, cardigan, dress or similar garment, you will find a graphic with the measurements of the finished garment (in cm) at the bottom of the pattern.

74% Alpaca, 18% Polyamide, 8% Wool
from 8.40 $ /50g
DROPS Sky uni colour DROPS Sky uni colour 8.40 $ /50g
Purple Sheep Yarns
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DROPS Sky mix DROPS Sky mix 8.40 $ /50g
Purple Sheep Yarns
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75% Mohair, 25% Silk
from 5.80 $ /25g
DROPS Kid-Silk uni colour DROPS Kid-Silk uni colour 5.80 $ /25g
Purple Sheep Yarns
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DROPS Kid-Silk long print DROPS Kid-Silk long print 5.80 $ /25g
Purple Sheep Yarns
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DROPS Needles & Hooks
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 65.20$. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
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EXPLANATION FOR THE PATTERN:

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PATTERN:
See diagrams A.1 and A.2. Diagrams show all rows in pattern seen from the right side.

INCREASE TIP (applies to sleeves):
Work until 2 stitches remain before marker thread, 1 yarn over, knit 4 (marker thread is in the middle of these stitches), 1 yarn over. On next round knit yarn overs twisted to avoid holes. Then work the new stitches in stockinette stitch.

RAGLAN:
All decreases are done from the right side!
Decrease 1 stitch on each side of marker thread as follows: Work until 2 stitches remain before marker thread, knit 2 together, marker thread is here, slip 1 stitch knitwise, knit 1, pass slipped stitch over stitch worked. Repeat at each of the remaining marker threads (= 8 stitches decreased).

V-NECK:
Decrease for V-neck on front pieces. All decreases are done from the right side!
Decrease as follows after A.1: Slip 1 stitch knitwise, knit 1, pass slipped stitch over.
Decrease as follows before A.2: Work until 2 stitches remain before A.2, knit 2 together.

BUTTONHOLES:
Decrease for buttonholes on right band. 1 BUTTONHOLE = knit third and fourth stitch from edge together and make 1 yarn over. On next row knit yarn over = hole.
Decrease for buttonholes when piece measures:
S: 3, 11, 20, 28 and 37 cm = 1 1/8”, 4 3/8”, 8”, 11” and 14 1/2”
M: 2, 11, 20, 29 and 38 cm = 3/4”, 4 3/8”, 8”, 11 3/8” and 15”
L: 3, 12, 21, 30 and 39 cm = 1 1/8”, 4 3/4”, 8 1/4”, 11 3/4” and 15 1/4”
XL: 2, 11, 21, 30 and 40 cm = 3/4”, 4 3/8”, 8 1/4”, 11 3/4” and 15 3/4”
XXL: 3, 12, 22, 31 and 41 cm = 1 1/8”, 4 3/4”, 8 3/4”, 12 1/4” and 16 1/8”
XXXL: 2, 12, 22, 32 and 42 cm = 3/4”, 4 3/4”, 8 3/4”, 12 1/2” and 16 1/2”

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START THE PIECE HERE:

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JACKET - SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE:
Work piece back and forth on circular needle. First work body. Then work sleeves in the round on double pointed needles/a short circular needle. Then slip sleeves on to same circular needle as body before working the yoke. Finish by working the neck edges.

BODY:
Cast on 192-208-228-244-268-296 stitches on circular needle size 4.5 mm = US 7 with 1 strand Lace + 1 strand Kid-Silk (= 2 strands) or 1 strand Sky. Purl 1 row from wrong side. Switch to circular needle size 4 mm = US 6 and work rolling edge as follows:
ROW 1 (= right side): Knit all stitches.
ROW 2 (= wrong side): Purl all stitches.
ROW 3: Knit all stitches.
ROW 4: Purl 3, * knit 1, purl 1 * until 4 stitches remain on needle, knit 1, purl 3.
Now work as follows from right side: A.1 (= 4 stitches), stockinette stitch until 4 stitches remain, A.2 over the last 4 stitches. Continue back and forth like this. REMEMBER THE KNITTING GAUGE! Remember BUTTONHOLES on right band - read explanation above. When piece measures 31-31-31-31-30-30 cm = 12 1/2”-12 1/2”-12 1/2”-12 1/2”-11 3/4”-11 3/4”, bind off stitches for armhole on next row from wrong side as follows: Work the first 46-50-54-58-63-68 stitches on row(= left front piece), bind off the next 8-8-10-10-12-16 stitches for armhole, work the next 84-92-100-108-118-128 stitches (= back piece), bind off the next 8-8-10-10-12-16 stitches for armhole, work the remaining 46-50-54-58-63-68 stitches (= right front piece). Put piece aside and work the sleeves.

SLEEVE:
Cast on 50-52-54-56-56-60 stitches on circular needle size 4.5 mm = US 7 with 1 strand Lace + 1 strand Kid-Silk (= 2 strands) or 1 strand Sky. Work rolling edge as follows:
Knit 1 round. Switch to double pointed needles size 4 mm = US 6 and knit 3 rounds. Work next round as follows: * Knit 1, purl 1 *, repeat from *-* the entire round. Work in stockinette stitch in the round. When piece measures 10-10-10-8-9-9 cm = 4”-4”-4”-3 1/8”-3 1/2”-3 1/2”, increase 2 stitches under sleeve - read INCREASE TIP! Increase like this every 3½-2½-2-2-1½-1½ cm = 1 1/4”-1”-3/4”-3/4”-1/2”-1/2” 10-13-16-17-18-18 times in total = 70-78-86-90-92-96 stitches. When sleeve measures 46-45-44-43-40-39 cm = 18”-17 3/4”-17 1/4”-17”-15 3/4”-15 1/4”, bind off the middle 8-8-10-10-12-16 stitches under sleeve (= 4-4-5-5-6-8 stitches on each side of marker thread) = 62-70-76-80-80-80 stitches. Put piece aside and knit another sleeve the same way.

YOKE:
Slip sleeves on to same circular needle as body where armholes were bind off = 300-332-360-384-404-424 stitches. Now insert 4 marker threads in the piece between front pieces, back piece and sleeves, but displace marker threads so that there are 1-1-1-2-4-6 stitches in each side of front/back piece on each side of sleeves. I.e. there are 82-90-98-104-110-116 stitches for back piece, 45-49-53-56-59-62 stitches on each front piece, and 64-72-78-84-88-92 stitches for each sleeve. Continue back and forth with stockinette stitch and A.1 and A.2 in each side as before. AT THE SAME TIME on first row from right side begin decrease for raglan, and when piece measures 7-8-9-10-12-13 cm = 2 3/4”-3 1/8”-3 1/2”-4”-4 3/4”-5 1/8” from where sleeves were slipped onto same circular needle as body, work V-neck on front piece:

RAGLAN:
Decrease for RAGLAN - read explanation above. Decrease like this every 4th row 2-1-1-1-3-4 times and every other row 22-27-30-33-33-34 times (= 24-28-31-34-36-38 times in total).

V-NECK:
When yoke measures 7-8-9-10-12-13 cm = 2 3/4”-3 1/8”-3 1/2”-4”-4 3/4”-5 1/8”, decrease for V- neck on front piece, begin from right side as follows: Work A.1 as before over the first 4 stitches, decrease 1 stitch for V-NECK – read explanation above, work stockinette stitch (continue decrease for raglan as before) until 6 stitches remain on needle, decrease 1 stitch – remember V-NECK, work A.2 over the last 4 stitches. Continue back and forth like this, and decrease for V-neck every other row 15-14-15-13-14-14 times, and every 4th row 1-2-2-4-4-5 times (= 16-16-17-17-18-19 stitches in total decreased for V-neck in each side).
When all decreases for V-neck and raglan are done, there are 76-76-78-78-80-82 stitches on needle. Work next row from right side as follows: Knit the first 3 stitches,
purl the next 2 stitches together (= 1 stitch decreased), knit until 5 stitches remain on needle, purl the next 2 stitches together (= 1 stitch decreased), knit the last 3 stitches = 74-74-76-76-78-80 stitches. Work 1 row from wrong side with knit over knit and purl over purl. Jumper measures approx. 54-56-58-60-62-64 cm = 21 1/4"-22"-22 3/4"-23 5/8"-24 3/8"-25 1/4" from shoulder and down.

NECK EDGE:
Insert a marker thread mid back on neck edge. Slip the last 4 stitches on needle on a stitch holder, and work back and forth over the first 4 stitches for neck edge, at the same time work neck edge together with the remaining stitch on sleeve and neck line on back piece as follows:
Work as follows from right side:
ROW 1: Knit the first 3 stitches, knit the next 2 stitches together (= 1 stitch decreased).
ROW 2: Turn and purl the 4 stitches.
ROW 3: Knit the first 3 stitches, knit the next 3 stitches together (= 2 stitches decreased).
ROW 4: Turn and purl the 4 stitches.
ROWS 5-8: Work the same way as on 3rd and 4th row.
Repeat rows 1-8 until you have worked until marker thread mid back in the neck. Bind off the 4 stitches on neck edge.

Slip the 4 stitches from stitch holder on needle 4 and work from wrong side as follows:
ROW 1: Purl the first 3 stitches, purl the next 2 stitches together (= 1 stitch decreased).
ROW 2: Turn and knit the 4 stitches.
ROW 3: Purl the first 3 stitches, purl the next 3 stitches together (= 2 stitches decreased).
ROW 4: Turn and knit the 4 stitches.
ROWS 5-8: Work the same way as on 3rd and 4th row.
Repeat rows 1-8 until you have worked until marker thread mid back in the neck. Bind off the 4 stitches on neck edge. Sew bind-off edge together on the 2 neck edges mid back in the neck. Fasten off.

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

= knit from the right side, purl from the wrong side
= purl from the right side, knit from the wrong side

Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 206-34) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (23)

Tamara 29.03.2020 - 21:43:

Als ik dit patroon volledig in kid-silk wil breien, hoeveel garen heb ik daar dan van nodig? Ik kan mijn antwoord niet meteen terugvinden via de garenvervanger. Dank u

Janka 21.02.2020 - 13:18:

Dziękuję, udało mi się poprawić dekolt, chociaż spowodowało to, że cały sweter jest troszkę krótszy.

Janka 17.02.2020 - 10:09:

Dziękuję za odpowiedź. Przyszycie to nie jest dobre rozwiązanie. Sprułam do momentu przed rozpoczęciem wykończenia dekoltu i nie bardzo wiem co dalej. Wygląda na to, że już w tym momencie z tyłu jest podwyższenie, które deformuje dekolt. Nie bardzo wiem jak to naprawić, a jeśli nic z tym nie zrobię cała moja praca pójdzie na marne :( Proszę o pomoc.

DROPS Design 19.02.2020 kl. 17:51:

Witaj Janko, nie bardzo mam pomysł, ponieważ nie wiem jak to wygląda. Możesz zrobić zdjęcie i przesłać na poland@dropsproject.com?

Janka 12.02.2020 - 14:46:

Pomyłkowo umieściłam pytanie w swetrze rozpinanym, a dotyczy wersji nie rozpinanej.

DROPS Design 12.02.2020 kl. 19:34:

Witaj Janko, nic się nie stało. Już udzieliłam odpowiedzi na twoje pytanie. Pozdrawiamy!

Janka 12.02.2020 - 10:34:

Dzień dobry, po zrobieniu swetra okazało się, że od momentu gdy zaczyna się wykończenie dekoltu boki obu stron wykończenia wyraźnie zachodzą do środka, wygląda to jakby był nadmiar oczek i powstało coś w rodzaju podwyższenia, stójki. Robiłam według opisu, nie wiem czy sprucie coś tu pomoże. Obawiam się też, że namoczenie i uformowanie do suszenia też nie pomoże w tym przypadku.

DROPS Design 12.02.2020 kl. 19:33:

Witaj Janko! A może by zagiąć tą 'stójkę' na lewą stronę robótki i delikatnie podszyć. Może to coś poprawi. Powodzenia!

Eva Kroon 10.02.2020 - 16:52:

Danke für Antwort, leider verstehn wir einander falsch...ich meine nicht die Ärmellänge (welche zufällig auch 46 cm. ist, aber den Umkreis des Ärmels (19+4 Vorderseite = 23 und das Gleiche Hinterseite ist 46 cm). Ich komm mit 70 Maschen nur auf 33 cm. Freundlichen Gruss, Eva

DROPS Design 11.02.2020 kl. 09:30:

Liebe Frau Kroon, meinen Sie wegen die Maßskkizze? (=(19+4)x2 = 46 cm?) Diese sind für die Passe, die Ärmel in 1. Grösse sind 70 Maschen breit = ca 33.33 cm. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

Eva Kroon 09.02.2020 - 12:53:

Ich probiers noch Mal in Deutsch, vielleicht ist das verständlicher?! Für den Ärmel in Grösse S schlage ich 50 Maschen an und nehme zu bis 70. Nun müssten die ärmel 46 cm messen in der Runde. Aber Maschenprobe ist 21 Maschen für 10 cm.....da komm ich nur auf 33 cm. Was entgeht mir da???? Freundliche Grüsse, Eva

DROPS Design 10.02.2020 kl. 09:22:

Liebe Frau Kroon, wenn alle Zunahmen fertig sind, dann stricken Sie weiter (ohne Zunahme) bis die Ärmel 46 cm mist. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

Eva Kroon 04.02.2020 - 22:33:

Ik zet voor de mouw (maat s) 50 steken op en meerder tot 70.....hoe kan dit 23 cm ( in het rond 46 cm) meten bij een steken proef van 21 steken per 10 cm ? Ik kom op 33cm in het rond.

Krista De Backer 01.02.2020 - 19:52:

Wat betekent: minder iedere andere naald. Is daar een naald tussen zonder vermindering? Of moet er iedere naald verminderd worden?

DROPS Design 09.02.2020 kl. 20:58:

Dag Krista,

Met iedere andere naald wordt bedoeld dat je om de naald mindert, dus de ene naald wel en de andere naald niet.

Sylvaine 22.01.2020 - 21:39:

Bonjour, je suis en train de faire la taille S , je suis un peu surprise pour la manche car la mesure est de 45 cm pour la plus petite taille . Cela me parait tres long n’y a t il pas une inversion des dimensions de manches merci

DROPS Design 23.01.2020 kl. 09:34:

Bonjour Sylvaine, les manches sont plus longues dans les petites tailles car l'empiècement est plus court et l'encolure moins large. Vérifiez les différentes mesures du schéma en fonction d'un vêtement similaire, et ajustez la longueur des manches si besoin. Bon tricot!

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