Autumn Trails by DROPS Design

Knitted sweater in 2 strands DROPS Kid-Silk or 1 strand DROPS Brushed Alpaca Silk. The piece is worked with cables. Sizes S - XXXL.

DROPS 205-8
DROPS Design: Pattern no ks-154
Yarn group A + A or C
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SIZES:
S - M - L - XL - XXL – XXXL

Finished measurements:
Chest measurements: 100-108-116-126-138-150 cm = 39 3/8”-42 1/2”-45 3/4”-49 1/2”-54 1/4”-59”
Full length: 52-54-56-58-60-62 cm = 20 1/2"-21 1/4"-22"-22 3/4"-23 5/8"-24 3/8"

All measurements in charts are in cm.

MATERIALS:
DROPS KID-SILK from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group A)
200-225-225-250-275-300 g color 33, rust
Or use:
DROPS BRUSHED ALPACA SILK from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group C)
150-175-175-200-225-250 color 22, light rust

KNITTING GAUGE:
17 stitches in width and 22 rows in height with 2 strands Kid-Silk or 1 strand Brushed Alpaca Silk = 10 x 10 cm = 4” x 4”.

NEEDLES:
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 5 MM = US 8.
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 5 MM = US 8: Length 40 cm = 16” and 80 cm = 32” for stockinette stitch.
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 4 MM = US 6.
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 4 MM = US 6: Length 40 cm = 6” and 80 cm = 32” for rib.
DROPS CABLE NEEDLE – for cables.
Needle size is only a guide. If you get too many stitches on 10 cm = 4”, change to a larger needle size. If you get too few stitches on 10 cm = 4”, change to a smaller needle size.

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Knitting tension – See how to measure it and why here
Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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75% Mohair, 25% Silk
from 6.75 $ /25g
DROPS Kid-Silk uni colour DROPS Kid-Silk uni colour 6.75 $ /25g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
Order
needles DROPS Needles & Hooks
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 54.00$. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
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EXPLANATIONS FOR THE PATTERN:

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PATTERN:
See diagrams A.1 to A.4. Choose diagram for your size. The diagrams show all rows in the pattern seen from the right side.

DECREASE TIP-1 (evenly spaced):
To work out how to decrease evenly, count the total number of stitches over which you are decreasing (e.g. 26 stitches) and divide by number of decreases to be made (e.g. 5) = 5.2.
In this example, decrease by knitting approx each 4th and 5th stitch together.

BINDING OFF TIP:
To avoid the bind-off edge being tight you can bind off with a ½ size larger needle.

DECREASE TIP-2 (for sleeves):
Decrease 1 stitch on each side of the marker thread as follows: Work until there are 3 stitches left before the marker thread, knit 2 together, knit 2 (marker thread sits between these 2 stitches), slip 1 stitch as if to knit, knit 1 and pass the slipped stitch over the knitted stitch.

INCREASE TIP (for sleeves):
Work until there is 1 stitch left before the marker thread, 1 yarn over, knit 2 (marker thread sits between these 2 stitches), 1 yarn over. On the next round knit the yarn overs twisted to avoid holes. Then work the new stitches in stockinette stitch.

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START THE PIECE HERE:

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SWEATER – SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE:
The piece is worked in the round with circular needle, bottom up as far as the armholes, then the front and back pieces are finished separately. The sleeves are worked in the round with double pointed needles/short circular needle.

BODY:
Cast on 192-212-228-252-276-300 stitches with circular needle size 4 mm = US 6 and 2 strands Kid-Silk or 1 strand Brushed Alpaca Silk. Knit 1 round, then work rib (= knit 2 / purl 2) for 3 cm = 1 1/8”. Change to circular needle size 5 mm = US 8 and work the next round as follows:
Work stockinette stitch over the first 26-30-30-38-38-42 stitches – decrease 5-5-4-7-7-6 stitches evenly over these stitches – read DECREASE TIP-1, * A.1 over 16-16-20-20-24-24 stitches *, work from *-* a total of 2 times, work A.2 over the next 10-10-10-10-14-14 stitches, work the remaining 124-140-148-164-176-196 stitches in stockinette stitch – decrease 19-23-24-25-27-32 stitches evenly over these stitches. When A.1 and A.2 have been completed there are 186-202-214-234-260-280 stitches on the needle.
The next round is worked as follows:
Work 21-25-26-31-31-36 stitches in stockinette stitch, * A.3 over 22-22-24-24-30-30 stitches *, work from *-* a total of 2 times, work A.4 over the next 16-16-16-16-20-20 stitches, work the remaining 105-117-124-139-149-164 stitches in stockinette stitch. Continue this pattern. A.3 and A.4 are repeated in height. REMEMBER THE KNITTING GAUGE!
Work until the piece measures 36-37-38-39-40-41 cm = 14 1/4”-14 1/2”-15”-15 1/4”-15 3/4”-16 1/8” – adjust to after an odd-numbered round. The next round is worked as follows:
Bind off the first 5-7-7-9-9-10 stitches for the armhole, work the next 92-96-102-108-124-132 stitches as before (= front piece), bind off the next 10-14-14-18-18-20 stitches for the armhole, work the next 74-78-84-90-100-108 stitches as before (= back piece) and bind off the last 5-7-7-9-9-10 stitches for the armhole. Then finish front and back pieces separately as described below.

BACK PIECE:
= 74-78-84-90-100-108 stitches. Continue with stockinette stitch back and forth. When the piece measures 50-52-54-56-58-60 cm = 19 3/4"-20 1/2"-21 1/4"-22"-22 3/4"-23 5/8", bind off the middle 24-24-28-28-30-30 stitches for neck and each shoulder is finished separately. Bind off 1 stitch on the next row from the neck = 24-26-27-30-34-38 stitches left on shoulder. Continue working until the piece measures 52-54-56-58-60-62 cm = 20 1/2"-21 1/4"-22"-22 3/4"-23 5/8"-24 3/8", bind off– read BINDING OFF TIP. Work the other shoulder in the same way.

FRONT PIECE:
= 92-96-102-108-124-132 stitches. Start from the right side and continue with pattern and stockinette stitch back and forth. Work until the piece measures 43-45-46-48-49-51 cm = 17”-17 3/4”-18”-19”-19 1/4”-20”. On the next row from the right side knit the 12-12-12-12-16-16 cable stitches mid front together 2 and 2 (= 6-6-6-6-8-8 stitches decreased) = 86-90-96-102-116-124 stitches. On the next row place these 10-10-12-12-12-12 stitches on 1 thread for the neck and each shoulder is finished separately. Continue binding off at the beginning of each row from the neck as follows: Bind off 3 stitches 1 time, 2 stitches 2 times and then 1 stitch 1-1-2-2-3-3 times = 30-32-33-36-42-46 stitches left on shoulder. Continue working until the piece measures 51-53-55-57-59-61 cm = 20”-21”-21 5/8”-22 1/2”-23 1/4”-24”. On the next row from the right side knit the 12-12-12-12-16-16 cable stitches together 2 and 2 (= 6-6-6-6-8-8 stitches decreased) = 24-26-27-30-34-38 stitches. Bind off. Work the other shoulder in the same way.

SLEEVE:
Cast on 68-76-84-84-88-96 stitches with short circular needle/double pointed needles size 4 mm = US 6 and 2 strands Kid-Silk or 1 strand Brushed Alpaca Silk. Knit 1 round, then work rib (= knit 2 / purl 2) for 6 cm = 2 3/8”. Insert 1 marker thread at the beginning of the round; it will be used when decreasing and increasing mid under sleeve. Change to short circular needle size 5 mm = US 8 and work the next round as follows: Work stockinette stitch over the first 30-34-38-38-38-42 stitches – decrease 8-10-12-11-10-12 stitches evenly over these stitches, work A.2 over the next 10-10-10-10-14-14 stitches, work stockinette stitch over the remaining 28-32-36-36-36-40 stitches – decrease 6-8-10-9-8-10 stitches evenly over these stitches. When A.2 has been completed there are 60-64-68-70-76-80 stitches on the needle.
The next round is worked as follows: Work 22-24-26-27-28-30 stitches in stockinette stitch, A.4 over the next 16-16-16-16-20-20 stitches, work the remaining 22-24-26-27-28-30 stitches in stockinette stitch. Continue this pattern. A.4 is repeated in height. When the piece measures 14 cm = 5 1/2”, decrease 2 stitches mid under sleeve – read DECREASE TIP-2. Repeat the decrease when the sleeve measures 38 cm = 56-60-64-66-72-76 stitches. Continue working until the piece measures 42-42-42-41-39-37 cm = 16 1/2”-16 1/2”-16 1/2”-16 1/8”-15 1/4”-14 1/2”. Now increase 2 stitches mid under sleeve – read INCREASE TIP. Increase like this every 3 cm = 1 1/8” a total of 2 times = 60-64-68-70-76-80 stitches. Continue working until the piece measures 49-48-48-46-44-41 cm = 19 1/4”-19”-19”-18”-17 1/4”-16 1/8” – adjust to after an even-numbered round. Now work back and forth over all stitches until the piece measures 52-52-52-51-49-47 cm = 20 1/2”-20 1/2”-20 1/2”-20”-19 1/4”-18 1/2”. On the next row from the right side knit the 12-12-12-12-16-16 cable stitches together 2 and 2 (= 6-6-6-6-8-8 stitches decreased) = 54-58-62-64-68-72 stitches left on needle. Bind off. Work the other sleeve in the same way.

NECK:
Knit up from the right side approx. 72-72-88-88-92-92 stitches around the neck (including the stitches from the thread in front) with short circular needle size 4 mm = US 6 and 2 strands Kid-Silk or 1 strand Brushed Alpaca Silk – the number of stitches must be divisible by 4. Work rib in the round (= knit 2 / purl 2) for 3 cm = 1 1/8”. Loosely bind off with knit over knit and purl over purl.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew the shoulder seams inside the bind-off edge. Sew in the sleeves – sew the bind-off edge on the sleeve to the armhole and sew the opening under the sleeve to where stitches were bind off on the body.

This pattern has been corrected.

Updated online: 10.09.2019
New diagram A.2 S-M-L-XL

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

symbols = knit from right side, purl from wrong side
symbols = purl from right side, knit from wrong side
symbols = between 2 stitches make 1 yarn over. On the next row/round work the yarn over twisted to avoid a hole
symbols = knit 2 together
symbols = slip 1 stitch as if to knit, knit 1 and pass the slipped stitch over the knitted stitch
symbols = place 3 stitches on cable needle behind the piece, knit 3, knit 3 from cable needle,
symbols = place 3 stitches on cable needle in front of the piece, knit 3, knit 3 from cable needle
symbols = place 4 stitches on cable needle behind the piece, knit 4, knit 4 from cable needle
symbols = place 4 stitches on cable needle in front of the piece, knit 4, knit 4 from cable needle
diagram
diagram
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Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 205-8) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

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Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

We have also step-by-step guides for different techniques which you'll find here.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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5) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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6) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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7) What size should I knit?

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

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8) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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9) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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10) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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11) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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13) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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14) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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15) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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16) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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17) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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18) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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19) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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20) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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21) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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22) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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23) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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24) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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25) Why does my garment pill?

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (25)

country flag Elena Kalinina wrote:

Hi I don’t understand what is meant by knitting the cable stitched together 2 and 2. Could someone please help me understand how to do this technique?

28.02.2023 - 10:20

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Mrs Kalinina, cables needs more stitches than stocking stitch for the same width, as you increased at the beginning of cables you will have now to decrease the stitches of the cable - work diagram as before until the 12-16 sts (see size) middle stitches, thenk K2 tog a total of 3-4 times (you decrease 6-8 sts). Happy knitting!

28.02.2023 - 11:12

country flag Joan Shayne wrote:

Is there a way I can make the sleeves at the wrist more narrow(like an regular sleeve) rather than bell shaped?

08.08.2022 - 20:51

DROPS Design answered:

Hi Joan, You can decrease mid-under the sleeve and not work the yarn overs in A.2, making sure the pattern still looks ok down the sleeve. For the decreases under the sleeve, you can read some of our other jumper patterns with normal sleeves. Happy knitting!

09.08.2022 - 07:12

country flag Sophie wrote:

Hallo, in welcher Garnvariante und in welcher Größe wurde das Modell im Foto gestrickt? Die Farbe wirkt eher Brushed Alpaka Silk in rostrot aus, die beiden angegebenen Farben sehen beide heller aus. Eine Antwort auf eine Frage aus Kanada zum Garn widerspricht außerdem der Anleitung, dort heißt es, man nehme je einen Faden beider Garne - das könnte auch die farbliche Abweichung erklären. Können Sie meine Verwirrung aufklären? Viele Grüße

24.06.2022 - 14:36

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Sophie, ja genau Brushed Alpaca Silk wurde hier gestrickt; wegen Farben wenden Sie sich am besten direkt an Ihrem DROPS Laden, dort wird man Ihnen am besten mit den Farben helfen. Es kann immer "Fehlerquellen" bei der Darstellung von Farben - die Art der Belichtung beim Fotografieren, die Bildschirmeinstellung des Nutzers (hierzu gibt es auch bei den Garnen einen Hinweis), dann auch leichte Farbabweichungen bei den verschiedenen Partien. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

27.06.2022 - 08:17

country flag Filippa wrote:

Skulle ni kunna tänka er att göra mönster i storlek xs? Det är så himla synd att ni har så få mönster i min storlek. Hur kan man annars anpassa mönstret så det blir rätt storlek?

23.02.2022 - 21:51

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Filippa. Vi har ganska många mönster i storlek XS, du kan filtrera på storlek när du söker efter mönster. Här ser du våra mönster på tröjor till dam i storlek XS. Vill du göra om just detta mönster så får du räkna ut antal maskor du ska lägga upp utifrån hur bred du önskar att tröjan ska vara och stickfastheten. Mvh DROPS Design

24.02.2022 - 11:08

country flag Letizia wrote:

Come devo lavorare le 12 maglie che vengono messe in attesa sul davanti per lo scollo? Le intreccio e proseguo lavorando separatamente le spalle?

30.04.2020 - 23:32

DROPS Design answered:

Buongiorno Letizia. Le 12 maglie verranno riprese più avanti per lavorare il collo. Può trasferirle, senza chiuderle, su un filo di scarto/ fermamaglie, oppure può chiuderle e riprendere le maglie successivamente. Buon lavoro!

01.05.2020 - 08:53

country flag Julia Jonas wrote:

Autumn trail pattern knitting the sleeve in the round at 49 cm it says to knit back and forth until 52 cm, how do i do this if knitting in the round? or is this a mistake?

03.03.2020 - 19:44

DROPS Design answered:

Hi Julia, At the top of the sleeve, you will work the sleeve cap, to make sewing the sleeve onto the body easier. So you stop working in the round and work back and forth, at the same time as you decrease for the cap. Happy knitting!

04.03.2020 - 08:17

country flag Vilde wrote:

Under bol i oppskriften, hva menes med "avpass etter omgang med oddetall"? Jeg har totalt 202 masker til sammen på pinnen, størrelse M.

16.02.2020 - 20:42

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Vilde, 1.- 3. - 5. - osv omgang i diagrammet er oddetall. God fornøjelse!

18.02.2020 - 11:22

country flag Julia Jonas wrote:

Very strange that the yarn is one strand of drops alpaca silk. It is so thin and doesn't look anything like the sweater in the pattern photo

20.01.2020 - 03:07

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Juia, for this sweater we used one strand of DROPS Brushed Alpaca Silk (and not the Baby Alpaca silk) and one strand of Kid Silk yarn. If you look at the close up picture you can see, that the resulting material is a haloed, hazy fabric that is very light. Happy knitting!

20.01.2020 - 03:21

country flag Nachisale wrote:

Like to knit my blouse. This site seems to be the best to learn how to knit

07.01.2020 - 15:49

country flag Jenny wrote:

Hallo liebes DROPS-Team, ich bin beim Voderteil und soll die Schultern einzeln fertig stricken. Meine Frage: ist es richtig, dass bei der einen Schulter die 12 Zopfmaschen am Anfang der Schulter zusammengestrickt werden (auf Höhe der stillgelegten Maschen) und die 12 Maschen der anderen Schulter ganz am Ende kurz vor dem Abketten? Liebe Grüße, Jenny

13.12.2019 - 21:50

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Jenny, beide Schulter sollten ebenso gestrickt werden, nur spiegelverkehr. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

16.12.2019 - 07:47

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