Golden Fall by DROPS Design

Knitted sweater in 2 strands DROPS Kid-Silk or 1 strand DROPS Brushed Alpaca Silk. The piece is worked with cables and V-neck with shawl collar. Sizes S - XXXL.

DROPS 205-37
DROPS Design: Pattern no ks-155
Yarn group A + A or C
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SIZES:
S - M - L - XL - XXL – XXXL

Finished measurements:
Chest measurements: 100-108-116-126-138-150 cm = 39 3/8”-42 1/2”-45 3/4”-49 1/2”-54 1/4”-59”
Full length: 52-54-56-58-60-62 cm = 20 1/2"-21 1/4"-22"-22 3/4"-23 5/8"-24 3/8"

All measurements in charts are in cm.

MATERIALS:
DROPS KID-SILK from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group A)
200-225-225-250-275-300 g color 33, rust
Or use:
DROPS BRUSHED ALPACA SILK from Garnstudio (belongs the yarn group C)
150-175-175-200-225-250 color 22, light rust

KNITTING GAUGE:
17 stitches in width and 22 rows in height with stockinette stitch and 2 strands Kid-Silk or 1 strand Brushed Alpaca Silk = 10 x 10 cm = 4” x 4”.

NEEDLES:
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 5 MM = US 8.
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 5 MM = US 8: Length 40 cm = 16” and 80 cm = 32” for stockinette stitch.
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 4 MM = US 6.
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 4 MM = US 6: Length 40 cm = 16” and 80 cm = 32” for rib.
DROPS CABLE NEEDLE – for cables.
Needle size is only a guide. If you get too many stitches on 10 cm = 4”, change to a larger needle size. If you get too few stitches on 10 cm = 4”, change to a smaller needle size.

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Knitting tension – See how to measure it and why here
Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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75% Mohair, 25% Silk
from 5.30 $ /25g
DROPS Kid-Silk uni colour DROPS Kid-Silk uni colour 5.30 $ /25g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
Order
DROPS Kid-Silk long print DROPS Kid-Silk long print 5.30 $ /25g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
Order
needles DROPS Needles & Hooks
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 21.20$. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
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EXPLANATIONS FOR THE PATTERN:

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PATTERN:
See diagrams A.1 to A.4. The diagrams show all rows in the pattern seen from the right side.

DECREASE TIP-1 (evenly spaced):
To work out how to decrease evenly, count the total number of stitches over which to decrease (e.g. 46 stitches) and divide by number of decreases to be made (e.g. 9) = 5.1.
In this example, decrease by knitting approx each 4th and 5th stitch together.

DECREASE TIP-2 (for V-neck):
All decreases are worked from the right side!
Decrease 1 stitch before A.3 as follows: Work until there are 2 stitches left before A.3, knit 2 together (= 1 stitch decreased)
Decrease 1 stitch after A.4 as follows: Work A.4, slip 1 stitch as if to knit, knit 1 and pass the slipped stitch over the knitted stitch (= 1 stitch decreased).

DECREASE TIP-3 (for sleeves):
Decrease 1 stitch on each side of the marker thread as follows: Work until there are 3 stitches left before the marker thread, knit 2 together, knit 2 (marker thread sits between these 2 stitches), slip 1 stitch as if to knit, knit 1 and pass the slipped stitch over the knitted stitch.

INCREASE TIP (for sleeves):
Work until there is 1 stitch left before the marker thread, 1 yarn over, knit 2 (marker thread sits between these 2 stitches), 1 yarn over. On the next round knit the yarn overs twisted to avoid holes. Then work the new stitches in stockinette stitch.

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START THE PIECE HERE:

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SWEATER – SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE:
The piece is worked in the round with circular needle as far as the V-neck, then the front and back pieces are worked back and forth from mid front as far as the armholes. Finally the front and back pieces are finished separately. The sleeves are worked in the round with short circular needle/double pointed needles.

BODY:
Cast on 200-220-232-260-284-308 stitches with circular needle size 4 mm = US 6 and 2 strands Kid-Silk or 1 strand Brushed Alpaca Silk. Knit 1 round, then work rib (= knit 2 / purl 2) for 3 cm = 1 1/8”. Change to circular needle size 5 mm = US 8 and work the next round as follows: Insert 1 marker thread at the beginning of the round (= side), work stockinette stitch over the first 46-50-54-58-62-70 stitches – decrease 9-9-10-11-10-13 stitches evenly over these stitches – read DECREASE TIP-1, work A.1 over the next 5-5-5-7-7-7 stitches, A.2 over the next 5-5-5-7-7-7 stitches, work stockinette stitch over the next 46-50-54-58-62-70 stitches – decrease 9-9-10-11-10-13 stitches evenly over these stitches (= front piece), insert 1 marker thread here (= side), work stockinette stitch over the remaining 98-110-114-130-146-154 stitches – decrease 14-18-16-22-28-26 stitches evenly over these stitches (= back piece).
When A.1 and A.2 have been completed there are 174-190-202-224-244-264 stitches on the needle (= 90-98-104-116-126-136 stitches on front piece and 84-92-98-108-118-128 stitches on back piece).
Now work A.3 (= 8-8-8-11-11-11 stitches) over A.1 and A.4 (= 8-8-8-11-11-11 stitches) over A.2; the remaining stitches are worked in stockinette stitch. Continue this pattern, A.3 and A.4 are repeated in height. REMEMBER THE KNITTING GAUGE!
Work until the piece measures 34-35-36-37-38-39 cm = 13 3/8”-13 3/4”-14 1/4”-14 1/2”-15”-15 1/4” – adjust to after an even-numbered round. Now divide the piece for the neck between the 2 cables on the front piece.
Continue working back and forth from mid front, starting from the right side. Decrease for the V-neck on the first row from the right side – at the same time, when the piece measures 36-37-38-39-40-41 cm = 14 1/4”-14 1/2”-15”-15 1/4”-15 3/4”-16 1/8”, bind off for the armholes; work as follows (pattern continues as before):
V-NECK:
Decrease for the V-neck on the first row from the right side - read DECREASE TIP-2. Decrease every 6th row a total of 2 times then every 4th row a total of 1-2-2-3-3-3 times and then every 2nd row a total of 7-6-7-6-7-8 times.
ARMHOLES:
When the piece measures 36-37-38-39-40-41 cm = 14 1/4”-14 1/2”-15”-15 1/4”-15 3/4”-16 1/8” bind off 10-14-14-18-18-20 stitches in each side (= 5-7-7-9-9-10 stitches on each side of the marker threads in the sides). Front and back pieces are finished separately as described below.

RIGHT FRONT PIECE:
Continue with stockinette stitch, A.4 and neck decreases as before. When the decreases for the neck are finished there are 30-32-34-38-42-45 stitches on the needle. Continue working until the piece measures 16-17-18-19-20-21 cm = 6 1/4”-6 3/4”-7”-7 1/2”-8”-8 1/4” from where you bind off for the armhole (the piece measures a total of 52-54-56-58-60-62 cm = 20 1/2"-21 1/4"-22"-22 3/4"-23 5/8"-24 3/8"). On the next row from the wrong side, bind off the first 22-24-26-27-31-34 stitches for the shoulder = 8-8-8-11-11-11 stitches on the needle. Continue with A.4 over the remaining stitches for the shawl collar for 6-6-7-7-7-8 cm = 2 3/8”-2 3/8”-2 3/4”-2 3/4”-2 3/4”-3 1/8”. On the next row from the right side knit the cable stitches together 2 and 2 = 5-5-5-7-7-7 stitches, bind off on the next row from the right side.

LEFT FRONT PIECE:
Continue with stockinette stitch, A.3 and decreases for V-neck. When the decreases for neck are finished there are 30-32-34-38-42-45 stitches left on the needle. Continue working until the piece measures 16-17-18-19-20-21 cm = 6 1/4”-6 3/4”-7”-7 1/2”-8”-8 1/4” from where stitches were bind off for the armholes (the piece measures a total of 52-54-56-58-60-62 cm = 20 1/2"-21 1/4"-22"-22 3/4"-23 5/8"-24 3/8"). On the next row from the right side bind off the first 22-24-26-27-31-34 stitches for the shoulder = 8-8-8-11-11-11 stitches. Continue with A.3 over the remaining stitches until the collar measures 6-6-7-7-7-8 cm = 2 3/8”-2 3/8”-2 3/4”-2 3/4”-2 3/4”-3 1/8”. On the next row from the right side knit the cable stitches together 2 and 2 = 5-5-5-7-7-7 stitches, bind off on the next row from the right side.

BACK PIECE:
= 74-78-84-90-100-108 stitches. Continue with stockinette stitch back and forth until the piece measures 14-15-16-17-18-19 cm = 5 1/2”-6”-6 1/4”-6 3/4”-7”-7 1/2” from where stitches were bind off for the armholes (the piece measures a total of 50-52-54-56-58-60 cm = 19 3/4"-20 1/2"-21 1/4"-22"-22 3/4"-23 5/8"). On the next row from the right side, bind off the middle 28-28-30-34-36-38 stitches for neck and each shoulder is finished separately. Bind off 1 stitch on the next row from the neck = 22-24-27-27-31-34 stitches left on shoulder. Continue working until the piece measures 52-54-56-58-60-62 cm = 20 1/2"-21 1/4"-22"-22 3/4"-23 5/8"-24 3/8", loosely bind off. Work the other shoulder in the same way
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SLEEVE:
Cast on 72-80-80-84-92-96 stitches with short circular needle/double pointed needles size 4 mm = US 6 and 2 strands Kid-Silk or 1 strand Brushed Alpaca Silk. Knit 1 round, then work rib (= knit 2 / purl 2) for 6 cm = 2 3/8”. Insert 1 marker thread at the beginning of the round; it will be used when decreasing and increasing mid under sleeve. Change to short circular needle size 5 mm = US 8 and work the next round as follows: Knit the first 30-34-34-34-38-42 stitches – decrease 8-10-8-9-11-13 stitches evenly over these stitches, work A.1 over the next 5-5-5-7-7-7 stitches, A.2 over the next 5-5-5-7-7-7 stitches, knit the remaining 32-36-36-36-40-40 stitches – decrease 10-12-10-11-13-11 stitches evenly over these stitches. When A.1 and A.2 have been completed there are 60-64-68-72-76-80 stitches on the needle.
Then work A.3 (= 8-8-8-11-11-11 stitches) over A.1 and work A.4 (= 8-8-8-11-11-11 stitches) over A.2; the remaining stitches are worked in stockinette stitch. When the piece measures 14 cm = 5 1/2”, decrease 2 stitches mid under sleeve – read DECREASE TIP-3. Repeat the decrease when the piece measures 38 cm = 15” = 56-60-64-68-72-76 stitches. Continue working until the sleeve measures 42-42-42-41-39-37 cm. Now increase 2 stitches mid under sleeve – read INCREASE TIP. Increase like this every 3 cm = 1 1/8” a total of 2 times = 60-64-68-72-76-80 stitches. Continue working until the piece measures 49-48-48-46-44-41 cm = 19 1/4”-19”-19”-18”-17 1/4”-16 1/8” – adjust to after an even-numbered round. Now work back and forth over all stitches until the piece measures 52-52-52-51-49-47 cm = 20 1/2”-20 1/2”-20 1/2”-20”-19 1/4”-18 1/2”. On the next row from the right side knit the 6-6-6-8-8-8 cable stitches together 2 and 2 = 54-58-62-64-68-72 stitches. Bind off. Work the other sleeve in the same way.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew the shoulder seams inside the bind-off edge. Sew the collar together mid back with grafting stitches and then sew it to the neck at the back – the seam should turn in to the wrong side. Sew in the sleeves – sew the bind-off edge on the sleeve to the armhole and sew the opening under the sleeve to where stitches were bind off on the body.

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

symbols = knit from right side, purl from wrong side
symbols = purl from right side, knit from wrong side
symbols = between 2 stitches make 1 yarn over. On the next row/round work the yarn over twisted to avoid a hole
symbols = place 3 stitches on cable needle behind the piece, knit 3, knit 3 from cable needle
symbols = place 3 stitches on cable needle in front of the piece, knit 3, knit 3 from cable needle
symbols = place 4 stitches on cable needle behind the piece, knit 4, knit 4 from cable needle
symbols = place 4 stitches on cable needle in front of the piece, knit 4, knit 4 from cable needle

diagram
diagram
diagram

Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 205-37) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

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Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

We have also step-by-step guides for different techniques which you'll find here.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (41)

country flag Petra wrote:

Ich habe eine Frage zu den Abnahmen am V-Ausschnitt. Ich nehme in der ersten Hinreihe auf jeder Seite 1 Masche ab. Dann nehme ich in jeder 6. Reihe 2x 1 Masche ab, dann in jeder 4. Reihe 1x1 Masche und in jeder 2. Reihe 7 x 1 Masche. Das sind doch insgesamt 11 Maschen je Seite? Ich habe beim Beginn des V-Ausschnitts 45 Maschen je Vorderteil. 5 Maschen fur den Armausschnitt, 11 Maschen Abnahme V-Ausschnitt, 8 Maschen für den Zopf, bleiben 21 Maschen übrig. Ich stricke in Größe S.

26.01.2023 - 08:00

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Petra, in S nehmen Sie für den Hals 1 Masche x 2 Mal in jeder 6. Reihe dann 1 Mal in jeder 4. Reihe und 7. Mal in jeder 2. Reihe = 10 Mal insgesamt; und gleichzeitig werden 5 Maschen für das Armloch bei der Verteilung abgekettet, es waren 90 M für das Vorderteil /2 = 45 M - 5 M (Armloch) - 10 M (V-Hals) = es sind 30 M übrig. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

26.01.2023 kl. 10:12

country flag Emma wrote:

Hi, What is the recommended ease for this pattern? I have a 108 cm bust, and don’t know whether to go for medium or large? I understand you need a fair bit of ease for drop shoulders

24.01.2023 - 18:23

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Emma, choose your own desire ease measuring a similar garment you have and like the shape and compare these to the chart - if you want something tight rather use M or if you want it somewhat looser choose L. Read more here. Happy knitting!

25.01.2023 kl. 11:34

country flag Lilly wrote:

Kann es sein, dass die Diagramme für Größen S-L fehlen?

25.09.2022 - 19:19

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Lilly, die Diagramme für S-M-L finden Sie unter die Diagram Erklärung, Viel Spaß beim stricken!

26.09.2022 kl. 10:07

country flag Michèle Dubreuil wrote:

Bonjour , Je suis au montage du chandail . Comment faire pour assembler le col par grafting au niveau du dos ..? ( 2 bouts de 6 cm ) . Je ne trouve aucun vidéo explicant la technique . Je sais comment faire du grafting pour les bas mais ici , je n ai pas de mailles en attentes....... Merci de m éclairer !

04.03.2022 - 02:02

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Dubreuil, assemblez ces 6 mailles entre elles en utilisant la même technique que pour les coutures d'épaules (cf cette vidéo. Bonne continuation!

04.03.2022 kl. 11:05

country flag ZUMAGLIA wrote:

Bonjour \r\nComment tricoter ce modèle avec des aiguilles droites SVP.

14.12.2021 - 11:05

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Zumaglia, cette leçon va vous donner quelques pistes pour tricoter le bas du pull et les manches en rangs plutôt qu'en rond. Bon tricot!

14.12.2021 kl. 16:51

country flag Marianne wrote:

Is dit patroon ook om te zetten voor gewone naalden? Ik heb nooit mijn draai kunnen vinden met de rondbreinaald.

25.11.2021 - 13:27

DROPS Design answered:

Dag Marianne,

Ja, dat zou bij dit patroon wel kunnen. Om een patroon aan te passen om op rechte naalden te breien hebben we een instructie gemaakt. Deze vind je hier.

26.11.2021 kl. 16:54

country flag Katrien wrote:

Beste, ik begrijp niet waarom we na de boord steken moeten minderen, ik ben juist het omgekeerde gewoon ?

05.10.2021 - 08:49

DROPS Design answered:

Dag Katrien,

Dit is per patroon verschillend, bij een aansluitende boord moet je vaak meerderen na de boord, bij een boord die ook wijd is moet je soms minderen.

07.10.2021 kl. 11:14

country flag Debra wrote:

Is the repeating part of the cable pattern just the A3 and A4 on each line? If alternate lines are the A1 and A2 it would increase the number of stitches each time, but just doing the A3 and A4 doesn’t look right. What does it mean that the stitches are repeated “in height”?

24.09.2021 - 03:37

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Debra, I'm not sure to understrand properly your question, could this lesson help you? It explains how to read knitting diagrams. Please feel free to tell us more if it doesn't help, thanks for your comprehension. Happy knitting!

24.09.2021 kl. 07:46

country flag Annica wrote:

Är tröjan på bilden stickad i kidsilk eller brushed alpaca silk?

02.03.2021 - 07:00

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Annica, den er strikket i DROPS Kid-Silk - God fornøjelse!

03.03.2021 kl. 14:41

country flag Mieke Kouters wrote:

Ik ben deze trui in maat L aan het breien. Ben met de mouwen bezig. Er staat verder breien tot het werk 48 cm meet, pas aan tot na een even naald. Daarna heen en weer breien tot 52 cm . Snap niet wat er moet gebeuren bij 48 cm ??? Graag bericht. Groet Mieke

13.12.2020 - 20:18

DROPS Design answered:

Dag Mieke,

Vanaf dat punt brei je niet meer in de rondte, maar heen en weer. Dit is de naad van de mouw die in het armsgat genaaid wordt (zie tekening onderaan het patroon).

14.12.2020 kl. 12:54

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