DROPS Nepal
DROPS Nepal
65% Wool, 35% Alpaca
from 3.30 $ /50g
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 39.60$. Read more.

Northern Exposure

Knitted poncho-sweater with raglan in DROPS Nepal. The piece is worked top down with cables and high neck. Sizes S - XXXL.

DROPS 205-2
DROPS Design: Pattern no ne-305
Yarn group C or A + A
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SIZES:
S - M - L - XL - XXL – XXXL

Finished measurements:
Chest measurements: 108-118-130-136-148-156 cm = 42 1/2”-46 1/2”-51 1/4”-53 1/2”-58 1/8”-61 1/4”
Full length: 61-63-65-67-69-71 cm = 24”-24 3/4”-25 1/2”-26 3/8”-27 1/8”-28”

All measurements in charts are in cm.

MATERIALS:
DROPS NEPAL from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group C)
600-700-750-800-900-1000 g color 0501, grey

KNITTING GAUGE:
15 stitches in width and 19 rows in height with stockinette stitch = 10 x 10 cm = 4” x 4”.

NEEDLES:
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 6 MM = US 10.
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 6 MM = US 10: Length 40 cm = 16” and 80 cm = 32” for stockinette stitch.
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 4.5 MM = US 7.
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 4.5 MM = US 7: Length 40 cm = 16” and 80 cm = 32” for rib.
DROPS CABLE NEEDLE – for cables.
Needle size is only a guide. If you get too many stitches on 10 cm = 4”, change to a larger needle size. If you get too few stitches on 10 cm = 4”, change to a smaller needle size.

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Knitting tension – See how to measure it and why here
Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Nepal
DROPS Nepal
65% Wool, 35% Alpaca
from 3.30 $ /50g
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 39.60$. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
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EXPLANATIONS FOR THE PATTERN:

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PATTERN:
See diagram A.1.

DECREASE/INCREASE TIP (evenly spaced):
To work out how to decrease/increase evenly, count the total number of stitches on needle (e.g. 88 stitches), and divide by number of decreases/increases to be made (e.g. 12) = 7.3. In this example, decrease by knitting together approx. each 6th and 7th stitch.
When increasing, make 1 yarn over after approx. each 7th stitch. On the next round knit the yarn overs twisted to avoid holes.

RAGLAN:
A total of 8 stitches increased on the round.
Increase as follows on the sleeves: Work as far as the first marker thread, make 1 yarn over after the thread, knit as far as the next marker thread and make 1 yarn over before the thread (= 1 stitches increased on each side of the sleeve). Repeat on the other sleeve (= 4 stitches increased on round).
Increase as follows on front and back pieces: Increase 1 stitch on each side of A.1 by making 1 yarn over (= 4 stitches increased on round).
Knit all yarn overs twisted on the next round to avoid holes, then work the new stitches in stockinette stitch.

DECREASE TIP:
Decrease 1 stitch on each side of the marker thread as follows: Work until there are 3 stitches left before the marker thread, knit 2 together, knit 2 (marker thread sits between these 2 stitches) slip 1 stitch as if to knit, knit 1 and pass the slipped stitch over the knitted stitch.

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START THE PIECE HERE:

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PONCHO-SWEATER – SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE:
The piece is worked in the round with circular needle, top down. The sleeves are worked in the round with short circular needle/double pointed needles.

NECK:
Cast on 88-92-96-96-100-108 stitches with short circular needle size 4.5 mm = US 7 and Nepal. Knit 1 round then work rib (= knit 2/ purl 2) for 8 cm = 3 1/8”. Knit 1 round where you decrease 12-12-12-12-12-16 stitches evenly spaced – read DECREASE/INCREASE TIP = 76-80-84-84-88-92 stitches.

YOKE:
Change to short circular needle size 6 mm = US 10 and work pattern as follows: Insert a marker thread at the beginning of the round (= transition between left sleeve and back piece), knit 3-4-5-5-6-7, make 1 yarn over, work A.1 over the next 20 stitches, 1 yarn over, knit 3-4-5-5-6-7 and insert 1 marker thread here (= transition between back piece and right sleeve), 1 yarn over, knit 12, 1 yarn over, insert a marker thread here (= transition between right sleeve and front piece), knit 3-4-5-5-6-7, 1 yarn over, work A.1 over the next 20 stitches, 1 yarn over, knit 3-4-5-5-6-7 , insert 1 marker thread here (= transition between front piece and left sleeve), 1 yarn over, knit 12, make 1 yarn over. REMEMBER THE KNITTING GAUGE! A total of 8 stitches have been increased on the round to RAGLAN – read description above. Increase like this every 2nd round a total of 27-29-31-33-35-37 times = 292-312-332-348-368-388 stitches. Now continue with pattern as before at the same time as you continue to increase on each side of A.1 on the front and back pieces (= 4 stitches increased on round) 5 more times = 312-332-352-368-388-408 stitches. The piece measures approx. 34-36-38-40-42-44 cm = 13 3/8”-14 1/4”-15”-15 3/4”-16 1/2”-17 1/2”. The next round is worked as follows: Work the first 90-96-102-106-112-118 stitches (= back piece), place the next 66-70-74-78-82-86 stitches on 1 thread for sleeve and cast on 8-8-10-10-12-12 new stitches on the needle (= in side under sleeve), work the next 90-96-102-106-112-118 stitches (= front piece), place the next 66-70-74-78-82-86 stitches on 1 thread for sleeve and cast on 8-8-10-10-12-12 new stitches on the needle (= in side under sleeve). Body and sleeves are finished separately. THE PIECE IS NOW MEASURED FROM HERE.

BODY:
= 196-208-224-232-248-260 stitches. Insert a marker thread in the middle of the 8-8-10-10-12-12 new stitches under each sleeve (= 4-4-5-5-6-6 new stitches on each side of each thread). Continue in the round with stockinette stitch and pattern A.1 as before, AT THE SAME TIME continue to increase on each side of A.1 (= 4 stitches increased on the round) every 2nd round a total of 17 times and when the piece measures 4 cm = 1 1/2” start to decrease on each side – read DECREASE TIP. Decrease like this every 3 cm = 1 1/8” a total of 5 times = 244-256-272-280-296-308 stitches. Continue working until the piece measures 18 cm = 7”. Knit 1 round where you increase 48-52-56-60-64-68 stitches evenly spaced – remember DECREASE/INCREASE TIP = 292-308-328-340-360-376 stitches. Change to circular needle size 4.5 mm = US 7 and work rib (= knit 2/ purl 2) for 5 cm = 2”. Bind off with knit over knit and purl over purl. The piece measures approx. 61-63-65-67-69-71 cm = 24”-24 3/4”-25 1/2”-26 3/8”-27 1/8”-28” from the shoulder down.

SLEEVE:
Place the 66-70-74-78-82-86 stitches from the thread on the one side of the piece on short circular needle size 6 mm = US 10 and knit up 1 stitch in each of the 8-8-10-10-12-12 stitches cast on under the sleeve = 74-78-84-88-94-98 stitches. Insert a marker thread in the middle of the 8-8-10-10-12-12 stitches under the sleeve (4-4-5-5-6-6 new stitches on each side of the thread). Work stockinette stitch in the round.
When the sleeve measures 2 cm = 3/4” start to decrease under the sleeve – read DECREASE TIP. Decrease like this every 2nd round a total of 6 times, then every 5-4½-2½-1½-1½-1 cm = 2”-1 3/4”-1”-1/2”-1/2”-3/8” a total of 4-4-6-7-8-8 times = 54-58-60-62-66-70 stitches. When the piece measures 28-26-25-23-22-20 cm = 11”-10 1/4”-9 3/4”-9”-8 3/4”-8” increase 10-14-12-14-14-14 stitches evenly spaced = 64-72-72-76-80-84 stitches. Change to circular needle size 4.5 mm = US 7 and work rib (= knit 2/ purl 2) for 5 cm = 1 1/2”. Bind off with knit over knit and purl over purl. The sleeve measures approx. 33-31-30-28-27-25 cm = 13”-12 1/4”-11 3/4”-11”-10 5/8”-9 3/4”. Work the other sleeve in the same way.

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

symbols = knit
symbols = purl
symbols = place 3 stitches on cable needle in front of piece, knit 3, knit 3 from cable needle
symbols = place 3 stitches on cable needle behind piece, knit 3, knit 3 from cable needle
diagram
diagram

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (97)

country flag Fanny wrote:

Salve, cortesemente vorrei un chiarimento nella parte che inizia il corpo. Aumentare per 17 ripetizioni a ogni lato del diagramma A1 è chiaro, ma quando il lavoro misura 4cm iniziare le diminuzioni ad ogni lato, (quale lati?) sempre del diagramma A1? Dopo 17 ripetizioni degli aumenti, non corrispondono 4cm. Grazie!

22.01.2024 - 11:21

DROPS Design answered:

Buonasera Fanny, per le diminuzioni deve seguire quanto riportato nel paragrafo "SUGGERIMENTO PER LE DIMINUZIONI" ed iniziare le diminuzioni quando il lavoro misura 4 cm. Buon lavoro!

24.01.2024 - 16:59

country flag Fanny wrote:

Salve, cortesemente vorrei un chiarimento, quando dice che dopo le 17 ripetizioni di aumento ai lati dello schema A1 e dopo 4 cm iniziare le diminuzioni ai lati Quali lati?dallo stesso schemaA1? Ma dopo le 17 ripetizioni penso il lavoro misuri più di 4cm per iniziare le diminuzioni agli stessi lati?

21.01.2024 - 23:21

DROPS Design answered:

Buonasera Fanny, per le diminuzioni deve seguire quanto riportato nel paragrafo "SUGGERIMENTO PER LE DIMINUZIONI" ed iniziare le diminuzioni quando il lavoro misura 4 cm. Buon lavoro!

24.01.2024 - 16:59

country flag MYRIAM DEVAUCHELLE wrote:

J'ai envie de faire ce pull, mais avec le fil A, dans ce cas si j'ai bien compris je tricote deux fils ensemble, combien me faut il alors de pelotes pour la taille M, faut il doubler et prendre 1400 grammes, soit 28 pelotes de 50 grammes? merci d'avance

10.12.2023 - 14:14

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Devauchelle, la nouvelle quantité se fera en fonction du métrage; utilisez le convertisseur pour avoir la nouvelle quantité correspondante des alternatives possibles du groupe A et tricoter avec 2 fils (au lieu d'1 fil du groupe C). Bon Tricot!

11.12.2023 - 09:04

country flag Lizelle wrote:

Hi, I would like to know how can I get the pattern please in English or Afrikaans.

30.10.2023 - 09:20

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Lizelle, sure you can click on the scroll down menu below the picture to edit language into English, choose either UK or US English. Happy knitting!

30.10.2023 - 17:51

country flag Anna wrote:

Non capisco le istruzioni x il corpo: quando dice “continuare ad aumentare da ciascun lato del diagramma A.1(=quattro maglie aumentate sul giro) ogni due giri in tutto 17 volte e, quando il lavoro misura 4 cm“: come fa a misurare 4 cm se devo diminuire quattro maglie ogni due giri per 17 volte? \r\nE anche nelle diminuzioni dice di diminuire 4 maglie ogni 3 cm per 5 e che alla fine di tutto questo il lavoro misura 18 cm: come è possibile solo 18 cm? C’è qualcosa che non capisco grazie

24.10.2023 - 17:03

DROPS Design answered:

Buonasera Anna, le diminuzioni sono lavorate in contemporanea agli aumenti. Buon lavoro!

29.10.2023 - 23:21

country flag Brunni Sahl wrote:

Hallo, das Diagramm zeigt nur die Hinreihen an und in der Rückrunde die Maschen so stricken wie sie erscheinen?? Das Muster geht insgesamt über 16Reihen, ist das richtig? Gruß B.Sahl

07.10.2023 - 11:28

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Frau Sahl, also nein, das Diagram zeigt alle Reihen, dh die Hin- sowie die Rückreihen, das bedeutet A.1 wird über 8 Reihen gestrickt. Viel spaß beim stricken!

09.10.2023 - 08:29

country flag Elize wrote:

I'm confused. I'm doing the XL size, I'm at this piont....AT THE SAME TIME continue to increase on each side of A.1 (= 4 stitches increased on the round) every 2nd round a total of 17 times and when the piece measures 4 cm start to decrease on each side – read DECREASE TIP. Decrease like this every 3 cm a total of 5 times = 244-256-272-280-296-308 stitches. Must I first do the 17x increase before I start the decrease section. Where does the 4cm comes in. please help. Thank you

09.05.2023 - 10:31

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Elize, you continue increasing on each side of A.1 as before from body, and when piece measures 4 cm from division, start now to decrease on each side (to avoid number of stitches being too large). This means you will then increase and decrease at the same time but not at the same rythm: increase on every 2nd round a total of 17 times and decrease 5 times on every 3rd cm starting after the first 4 cm on body. Happy knitting!

09.05.2023 - 16:16

country flag Gail Dickson wrote:

I love the pattern I am to the 7 inch area passed bottom of the armhole. The picture looks like a v'd front and back. My pattern is telling me to do ribbing and bind off, how is the v being made??? Thanks Gail

20.02.2023 - 18:09

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Mrs Dickson, the V is created thanks to the yarn overs/increased worked on each side of A.1 as you made from the beginning - the decreases on the sides help to avoid the piece being then too large. Happy knitting!

21.02.2023 - 10:00

country flag LEEN VANDE VELDE wrote:

Beste, heb dit model niet in het rond gebreid maar ieder stuk afzonderlijk (geprobeerd). Echter, met m'n mouw heb ik een probleem, weet niet hoe ik die moet inzetten, als het mag wil ik foto doorsturen maar hoe ? hartelijk dank

29.12.2022 - 09:54

DROPS Design answered:

Dag Leen,

Het is helaas niet mogelijk om foto's in te sturen via dit forum. Misschien lukt het om hulp te krijgen via social media of via een verkooppunt bij je in de buurt waar je langs kunt gaan.

01.01.2023 - 10:46

country flag Pily wrote:

Muy lindo modelo. Gracias

27.07.2022 - 10:09