DROPS / 200 / 29

Sunny Swing by DROPS Design

Knitted sweater with raglan and stockinette stitch in DROPS Melody. The piece is worked top down. Sizes XS - XXL.

DROPS Design: Pattern no ml-030
Yarn group D or B + B
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SIZES:
XS - S - M - L - XL – XXL

Finished measurements:
Chest measurements: 108-116-120-132-142-156 cm = 42 1/2”-45 3/4”-47 1/4”-52”-55 3/4”-61 1/4”
Full length: 52-54-56-58-60-62 cm = 20 1/2"-21 1/4"-22"-22 3/4"-23 5/8"-24 3/8"

All measurements in charts are in cm.

MATERIALS:
DROPS MELODY from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group D)
200-200-200-200-250-250 color 14, vanilla

KNITTING GAUGE:
12 stitches in width and 14 rows in height with stockinette stitch = 10 x 10 cm = 4” x 4”.

NEEDLES:
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 8 MM = US 11.
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 8 MM = US 11: length 40 cm = 16” and 60 cm or 80 cm = 24” or 32” for stockinette stitch.
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 7 MM = US 10,75.
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 7 MM = US 10,75: length 40 cm = 16” and 60 cm or 80 cm = 24” or 32” for rib.
Needle size is only a guide. If you get too many stitches on 10 cm = 4”, change to a larger needle size. If you get too few stitches on 10 cm = 4”, change to a smaller needle size.

Have you knitted/crocheted this or any other of our designs? Tag your pictures in social media with #dropsdesign so we can see them!

Want to use a different yarn? Try our yarn converter!
Not sure which size you should choose? Then it might help you to know that the model in the picture is approx. 5 ft 7 in and uses size S or M. If you are making a sweater, cardigan, dress or similar garment, you will find a graphic with the measurements of the finished garment (in cm) at the bottom of the pattern.

71% Alpaca, 25% Wool, 4% Polyamide
from 6.30 $ /50g
DROPS Melody uni colour DROPS Melody uni colour 6.30 $ /50g
Purple Sheep Yarns
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DROPS Needles & Hooks
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 25.20$. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
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EXPLANATIONS FOR THE PATTERN:

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INCREASE/DECREASE TIP (evenly spaced):
To work out how to increase/decrease evenly, count the total number of stitches on the needle (e.g. 50 stitches) and divide by the number of increases/decreases to be made (e.g. 6) = 8.3.
In this example, increase by making 1 yarn over after approx. each 8th stitch. On the next round work the yarn overs twisted to avoid holes.
When decreasing knit approx. each 7th and 8th stitch together.

RAGLAN:
Increase 1 stitch on each side of the 2 knitted stitches in each transition between body and sleeves (= 8 stitches increased on round). Increase 1 stitch by making 1 yarn over. On the next round knit the yarn over to leave a hole, then work the new stitches in stockinette stitch.

DECREASE TIP (for sleeves):
Decrease 1 stitch on each side of the marker thread as follows: Work until there is 1 stitch left before the marker thread, knit 3 together = 1 stitch (move the marker thread to before this stitch).

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START THE PIECE HERE:

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SWEATER - SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE:
The piece is worked in the round with circular needle, top down. After the yoke the body is continued in the round with circular needle. The sleeves are worked in the round with short circular needle/double pointed needles.

NECK:
Cast on 50-50-52-56-58-60 stitches with circular needle size 7 mm = US 10,75 and DROPS Melody. Work 2 cm = 3/4” stockinette stitch, then knit 1 round where you increase 6-6-8-4-6-0 stitches evenly spaced – read INCREASE/DECREASE TIP = 56-56-60-60-64-60 stitches. Change to circular needle size 8 mm = US 11.

YOKE:
Insert 1 marker here - THE PIECE IS NOW MEASURED FROM HERE!
Now insert 4 marker threads in the piece (WITHOUT working the stitches) as follows: Insert 1 marker thread at the beginning of the round (= in transition between sleeve and back piece), 1 marker thread after 19 new stitches (= back piece), 1 marker thread after 9-9-11-11-13-11 new stitches (= sleeve), 1 marker thread after 19 new stitches (= front piece) and you have 9-9-11-11-13-11 stitches left to the first marker thread (= sleeve).
The next round is worked as follows: Start the round at the first marker thread (on back piece). Knit 1, make 1 yarn over, work 17 stitches in stockinette stitch (= back piece), 1 yarn over, knit 2 (marker thread sits between these 2 stitches), 1 yarn over, work 7-7-9-9-11-9 stitches in stockinette stitch (= sleeve), 1 yarn over, knit 2 (marker thread sits between these 2 stitches), 1 yarn over, work 17 stitches in stockinette stitch (= front piece) 1 yarn over, knit 2 (marker thread sits between these 2 stitches), 1 yarn over, work 7-7-9-9-11-9 stitches in stockinette stitch (= sleeve), 1 yarn over and knit 1.
This was the first increase to RAGLAN – read description above.
Continue with stockinette stitch at the same time as you increase to raglan every 2nd round a total of 15-17-18-19-20-22 times (including the first round described above). REMEMBER THE KNITTING GAUGE!
After the last increase to raglan there are 176-192-204-212-224-236 stitches on the needle. Continue with stockinette stitch as before but without increasing until the piece measures 21-23-24-26-27-29 cm = 8 1/4”-9”-9 1/2”-10 1/4”-10 5/8”-11 3/8” from the marker at the beginning of the yoke.
Now work the next round as follows:
Work 50-54-57-60-63-68 stitches in stockinette stitch (= back piece), place the next 37-41-43-43-45-45 stitches on 1 thread for sleeve, cast on 4-4-4-6-8-10 new stitches on the needle (= in side under sleeve), work 51-55-59-63-67-73 stitches in stockinette stitch (= front piece), place the next 37-41-43-43-45-45 stitches on 1 thread for sleeve, cast on 4-4-4-6-8-10 new stitches on the needle (= in side under sleeve) and work the last 1-1-2-3-4-5 stitches in stockinette stitch (= back piece). Body and sleeves are finished separately.
THE PIECE IS NOW MEASURED FROM HERE!

BODY:
= 110-118-126-138-150-166 stitches. Insert 1 marker thread in the middle of the 4-4-4-6-8-10 new stitches cast on under each sleeve. Continue with stockinette stitch. Start the round by one of the marker threads and allow the threads to follow your work onwards
At the same time increase 1 stitch on each side of the 4-4-4-6-8-10 stitches mid under sleeve in each side (= 4 new stitches on the round). Repeat this increase a total of 5 times every 4 cm = 1 1/2” = 130-138-146-158-170-186 stitches. When the piece measures 25-25-26-26-27-27 cm = 9 3/4”-9 3/4”-10 1/4”-10 1/4”-10 5/8”-10 5/8” from the division (approx. 48-50-52-54-56-58 cm = 19”-19 3/4”- 20 1/2"-21 1/4"-22"-22 3/4" from the shoulder) knit 1 round where you increase 16-18-18-20-22-24 stitches evenly spaced = 146-156-164-178-192-210 stitches.
Change to circular needle size 7 mm = US 10,75 and work rib (= knit 1 / purl 1) for 3 cm = 1 1/8”. Bind off with knit over knit and purl over purl – to avoid the bind-off edge being tight you can bind off with a needle size 8 mm = US 11. The sweater measures approx. 52-54-56-58-60-62 cm = 20 1/2"-21 1/4"-22"-22 3/4"-23 5/8"-24 3/8" from the shoulder.

SLEEVE:
Place the 37-41-43-43-45-45 stitches from the thread on the one side of the piece on short circular needle/double pointed needles size 8 mm = US 11 and knit up 1 stitch in each of the 4-4-4-6-8-10 stitches cast on under the sleeve = 41-45-47-49-53-55 stitches. Insert 1 marker thread in the middle of the 4-4-4-6-8-10 stitches and start the round here. Work stockinette stitch. When the piece measures 2 cm = 3/4” from the division decrease 2 stitches mid under sleeve – read DECREASE TIP. Decrease like this every 4-3½-2½-3-2-2 cm = 1 1/2”-1 1/4”-1”-1 1/8”-3/4”-3/4” a total of 7-8-9-9-11-11 times = 27-29-29-31-31-33 stitches. Continue working until the sleeve measures 36-34-34-32-32-30 cm = 14 1/4”-13 3/8”-13 3/8”-12 1/2”-12 1/2”-11 3/4” from the division (shorter measurements in larger sizes due to longer yoke). Knit 1 round where you increase 5 stitches evenly spaced = 32-34-34-36-36-38 stitches. Change to double pointed needles size 7 mm = US 10,75 and work rib (= knit 1 / purl 1) for 3 cm = 1 1/8”. Bind off with knit over knit and purl over purl – to avoid the bind-off edge being tight you can bind off with a needle size 8 mm = US 11. The sleeve measures approx. 41-39-39-37-37-35 cm = 16 1/8”-15 1/4”-15 1/4”-14 1/2”-14 1/2”-13 3/4” from the division. Work the other sleeve in the same way.

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.


Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 200-29) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (34)

Karen Ruthenstorfer 27.09.2020 - 14:50:

Hello, I often look at your pattern website, but the majority of your Patterns are using Circular Needles which I do not like to use.....do you have any suggestions of patterns which use Straight Needles please?

DROPS Design 28.09.2020 kl. 10:11:

Dear Mrs Ruthenstorfer, you will find how to adapt a pattern into straight needles here. Happy knitting!

Magdalena 16.07.2020 - 20:45:

I'm ready to cast this on but not sure if the pattern is correct. I'm making size M, so I'm supposed to make 18 raglan increases - that's 36 rows, which should amount to 25-26 cm length with correct gauge. THEN I'm asked to continue in stockinette until the piece measures 24 cm? What if it's longer already? :)

DROPS Design 17.07.2020 kl. 13:33:

Witaj Magdaleno! Może jest problem z pomiarem – czy mierzysz od punktu 2 cm poniżej brzegu dekoltu (od markera), wzdłuż środka przodu? Jeśli tak jest, a robótka jest za długa to mamy problem z próbką – wtedy (jeśli podkroje rękawów są na ciebie za głębokie) trzeba będzie pruć i częściej wykonywać zamykanie oczek na reglan (równomiernie): tzn. jak zamykałaś oczka co 2 okrążenia, to co jakiś czas musisz zamykać 2 razy pod rząd w każdym okrążeniu. Pozdrawiamy!

LÂM THỊ MỸ DIỆU 09.07.2020 - 03:47:

.I'm ready

Anna 19.06.2020 - 17:55:

Buongiorno secondo voi potrei realizzare questo modello con due capi del filato belle e quanti grammi ne potrebbero servire? Grazie mille

DROPS Design 19.06.2020 kl. 18:32:

Buongiorno Anna. Sì, può sostituire il filato Melody con 2 capi del filato Belle. A questa pagina trova le indicazioni per la sostituzione dei filati. Può rivolgersi al suo rivenditore Drops di fiducia per ulteriore aiuto. Buon lavoro!

Ginevra 11.06.2020 - 11:57:

Salve, non capisco cosa voglia dire: "riprendere 1 maglia in ognuna delle 4-4-4-6-8-10 nuove maglie avviate sotto la manica"...

DROPS Design 11.06.2020 kl. 23:23:

Buonasera Ginvera, deve riprendere il numero di maglie indicato per la taglia che sta lavorando. Ad esempio, per la taglia XS deve riprendere 1 maglia nelle 4 maglie avviate sotto la manica. Ecco un video che le può essere utile per riprendere le maglie: . Buon lavoro!

Emma 09.06.2020 - 11:04:

Ciao! domanda: posso lavorare anche le maniche con i ferri circolari invece che con quelli a doppia punta (non li ho)? nel caso devo fare qualche modifica? Graziee

DROPS Design 09.06.2020 kl. 11:31:

Buongiorno Emma, può provare con i ferri circolari con il cavo molto corto (solitamente fissi), oppure quelli con un cavo flessibile di almeno 80 cm utilizzando la tecnica del magic loop. Buon lavoro!

Giulia 05.06.2020 - 17:22:

Buongiorno, volevo sapere se è possibile fare questo maglione con i ferri dritti e se si quali sono le modifiche da fare! Grazie mille!

DROPS Design 05.06.2020 kl. 19:45:

Buongiorno Giulia. Il maglione è lavorato in tondo, dall’alto verso il basso. Purtroppo non è immediato trasformare questa lavorazione in una lavorazione con i ferri dritti. Può contattare il suo rivenditore Drops di fiducia per un aiuto così personalizzato. Buon lavoro!

Chantal 25.05.2020 - 23:00:

Bonjour. Je souhaite réaliser ce modèle et je m'étonne du nombre de pelote. En effet quand je vais commander ma laine je vois qu'il preconise 6 pelotes de cette laine pour un pull basique. Est ce que 4 pelotes sont suffisantes pour une taille M ? Merci de votre reponse

DROPS Design 26.05.2020 kl. 08:44:

Bonjour Chantal, pour réaliser ce modèle en taille M, il faut 200 g DROPS Melody, soit 4 pelotes de 50 g. Pensez à toujours bien vérifier votre échantillon (voir ici). Bon tricot!

Ulla Colsted 23.04.2020 - 07:01:

Hej Jeg er netop gået i gang med denne sweater og er forvirret over opskriften Jeg kan ikke finde hvordan jeg strikker mønsteret - ser kun der står at jeg fortsætter i glatstrik, kan een hjælpe mig🙏

DROPS Design 23.04.2020 kl. 11:25:

Hej Mönstret skapas av raglan som står förklarat längst upp i oppskriften under RAGLAN. Mvh DROPS Design

Susan Andersen 06.04.2020 - 23:53:

Hej, Hvor meget garn skal man bruge til str m i garngruppe b?

DROPS Design 15.04.2020 kl. 11:57:

Hei Susan. Da kan du bruke vår garn omregner. Du finner linken under PINNE informasjon. Med grønn skrift står det: Prøv vores omregner! God Fornøyelse!

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