DROPS / 199 / 48

Holiday in Rome by DROPS Design

Knitted wrap-around jacket in DROPS Alpaca and DROPS Kid-Silk. Piece is knitted top down with lace pattern. Size: S - XXXL

  • Holiday in Rome / DROPS 199-48 - Knitted wrap-around jacket in DROPS Alpaca and DROPS Kid-Silk. Piece is knitted top down with lace pattern. Size: S - XXXL
  • Holiday in Rome / DROPS 199-48 - Knitted wrap-around jacket in DROPS Alpaca and DROPS Kid-Silk. Piece is knitted top down with lace pattern. Size: S - XXXL
  • Holiday in Rome / DROPS 199-48 - Knitted wrap-around jacket in DROPS Alpaca and DROPS Kid-Silk. Piece is knitted top down with lace pattern. Size: S - XXXL
DROPS design: Pattern z-850
Yarn group A + A or C
----------------------------------------------------------

SIZE:
S - M - L - XL - XXL – XXXL

Finished measurements:
Chest measurements: 80-88-96-106-118-130 cm = 31 1/2”-34 5/8”-37 3/4”-41 3/4”-46 1/2”-51 1/4”
Full length: 38-40-42-44-46-48 cm = 15”-15 3/4”-16 1/2”-17 1/4”-18”-19”

All measurements in charts are in cm.

MATERIALS:
DROPS ALPACA from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group A)
200-200-200-200-250-250 g color 7120, light grey green
And use:
DROPS KID-SILK from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group A)
75-75-100-100-100-125 g color 06, blue fog

KNITTING GAUGE:
17 stitches in width and 22 rows vertically in stockinette stitch and 1 strand of each quality = 10 x 10 cm = 4” x 4”.

NEEDLES:
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 5 mm = US 8
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 5 mm = US 8: Length 40 and 80 cm = 16” and 32” for stockinette stitch.
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 4 mm = US 6
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 4 mm = US 6: Length 80 cm = 32” for rib.
Needle size is only a suggestion! If you have too many stitches on 10 cm = 4” switch to larger needles. If you have too few stitches on 10 cm = 4” switch to smaller needles.

----------------------------------------------------------

-------------------------------------------------------
Knitting tension – See how to measure it and why here
Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here
-------------------------------------------------------


100% Alpaca
from 5.30 $ /50g
DROPS Alpaca uni colour DROPS Alpaca uni colour 5.30 $ /50g
Purple Sheep Yarns
Order
DROPS Alpaca mix DROPS Alpaca mix 5.60 $ /50g
Purple Sheep Yarns
Order

75% Mohair, 25% Silk
from 5.80 $ /25g
DROPS Kid-Silk uni colour DROPS Kid-Silk uni colour 5.80 $ /25g
Purple Sheep Yarns
Order
DROPS Kid-Silk long print DROPS Kid-Silk long print 5.80 $ /25g
Purple Sheep Yarns
Order
needles DROPS Needles & Hooks
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 38.60$. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
EXPLANATION FOR THE PATTERN:

----------------------------------------------------------

GARTER STITCH (back and forth):
Knit all rows.
1 ridge vertically = knit 2 rows.

PATTERN:
See diagrams A.1 and A.2. Diagrams show all rows in pattern seen from the right side.

INCREASE TIP-1 (applies to armholes):
All increases are done from the right side.
Increase inside 3 edge stitches in garter stitch. Increase 1 stitch by making 1 yarn over. On next row (wrong side) purl yarn over twisted to avoid holes. Then work the increased stitches in stockinette stitch.

INCREASE TIP-2 (applies to neckline at the front):
Increase for neck inside 17 stitches in A.1/A.2. Increase 1 stitch by making 1 yarn over. On next row (wrong side) purl yarn over twisted to avoid holes. Then work the increased stitches in stockinette stitch.

DECREASE TIP-1 (applies to sides of body):
All decreases are done from the right side!
Decrease inside 1 edge stitch in garter stitch.
Decrease as follows after 1 edge stitch in garter stitch: Slip 1 stitch knitwise, knit 1, pass slipped stitch over stitch worked.
Decrease as follows before 1 edge stitch in garter stitch: Work until 2 stitches remain before edge stitch, knit 2 together.

DECREASE TIP-2 (applies to mid under sleeves):
Work until 3 stitches remain before marker thread, knit 2 together, knit 2 stitches (marker thread is between these 2 stitches), slip 1 stitch knitwise, knit 1, pass slipped stitch over stitch worked (= 2 stitches decreased).
----------------------------------------------------------

START THE PIECE HERE:

----------------------------------------------------------

WRAP-AOURND JACKET - SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE:
Front pieces and back piece are worked back and forth on circular needle, top down. Then pick up stitches for ties.
Sleeve cap is worked back and forth on circular needle, top down. Then work the rest of sleeve in the round on circular needle/double pointed needles top down.

RIGHT SHOULDER BACK (when garment is worn):
Cast on 22-22-22-22-22-22 stitches on circular needle size 4 mm = US 6 with 1 strand Alpaca + 1 strand Kid-Silk (= 2 strands). Work 1 ridge in GARTER STITCH - read explanation above. Switch to circular needle size 5 mm = US 8, and continue with garter stitch until piece measures approx. 2 cm = 3/4”, on last row from wrong side cast on 16-18-18-20-22-24 new stitches on needle = 38-40-40-42-44-46 stitches. Put piece aside and work the left shoulder at the back.

LEFT SHOULDER BACK (when garment is worn):
Cast on 22-22-22-22-22-22 stitches on circular needle size 4 mm = US 6 with 1 strand Alpaca + 1 strand Kid-Silk (= 2 strands). Work 1 ridge in GARTER STITCH - read explanation above. Switch to circular needle size 5 mm = US 8, and continue with garter stitch until piece measures approx. 2 cm = 3/4”, adjust so that last row is worked from wrong side.
Now work parts together and work back piece as explained below.

BACK PIECE:
Slip right shoulder and left shoulder on to same circular needle size 5 mm = US 8 = 60-62-62-64-66-68 stitches. Begin from right side and work 3 ridges in garter stitch over all stitches. Then work in stockinette stitch with 3 edge stitches in garter stitch in each side towards armholes. When piece measures 17-14-8-11-9-7 cm = 6 3/4”-5 1/2”-3 1/8”-4 3/8”-3 1/2”-2 3/4”, increase 1 stitch in each side for armholes – read INCREASE TIP-1. Increase like this every 4th-4th-4th-2nd-2nd-2nd row, 2-4-8-11-15-19 times in total in each side. Continue to work until piece measures 19-20-21-22-23-24 cm = 7 1/2”-8”-8 1/4”-8 3/4”-9”-9 1/2”. Now cast on 3 new stitches for armholes at the end of the next 2 rows = 70-76-84-92-102-112 stitches. Work 4 rows in stockinette stitch with 6 stitches in garter stitch in each side. Then work in stockinette stitch with 1 edge stitch in garter stitch in each side. When piece measures 4 cm = 1 1/2” from armhole, decrease 1 stitch in each side - read DECREASE TIP-1 (= 2 stitches decreased). Repeat decrease when piece measures 8 and 12 cm = 3 1/8” and 4 3/4” = 64-70-78-86-96-106 stitches. Work until piece measures 16-17-18-19-20-21 cm = 6 1/4”-6 3/4”-7”-7 1/2”-8”-8 1/4” from armhole, at the same time, on last row from wrong side adjust number of stitches to 64-70-79-85-97-106 stitches (back piece measures now approx. 35-37-39-41-43-45 cm = 13 3/4”-14 1/2”-15 1/4”-16 1/8”-17”-17 3/4” from shoulder). Switch to circular needle size 4 mm = US 6 and work next row from right side as follows: 1 edge stitch in garter stitch, * purl 2, knit 1 *, repeat from *-* until 3 stitches remain on needle, purl 2 and finish with 1 edge stitch in garter stitch. Continue rib like this for 3 cm = 1 1/8”. Loosely bind off stitches with knit over knit and purl over purl. Back piece measures approx. 38-40-42-44-46-48 cm = 15”-15 3/4”-16 1/2”-17 1/4”-18”-19” from shoulder.

RIGHT FRONT PIECE (when garment is worn):
Cast on 22-22-22-22-22-22 stitches on circular needle size 4 mm = US 6 with 1 strand Alpaca + 1 strand Kid-Silk (= 2 strands). Work 1 ridge. Switch to circular needle size 5 mm = US 8 and work next row from right side as follows: 3 edge stitches in garter stitch towards armhole, 2-2-2-2-2-2-2 stitches in stockinette stitch, A.1 (= 17 stitches). Continue pattern back and forth like this.
When piece measures 4 cm = 1 1/2”, increase for neck line inside A.1 towards mid front - read INCREASE TIP-2. Increase like this every 4th row (i.e. every other row from right side) 8-8-9-11-12-13 times in total and then every other row (i.e. every row from right side) 17-18-17-16-16-16 times in total. At the same time when piece measures 17-14-8-11-9-7 cm = 6 3/4”-5 1/2”-3 1/8”-4 3/8”-3 1/2”-2 3/4”, increase 1 stitch in the side for armhole - continue to increase the same way as on back piece. Work until piece measures 19-20-21-22-23-24 cm = 7 1/2”-8”-8 1/4”-8 3/4”-9”-9 1/2”, and cast on 3 new stitches at the end of next row from wrong side. Continue as before with A.1 towards mid front, increase for neck line and stockinette stitch but over the outermost 6 stitches towards the side work 2 ridges (i.e. this is done on the next 4 rows). Then work in stockinette stitch with 1 edge stitch in garter stitch towards the side, and A.1 towards mid front (continue increase as before). When piece measures 4 cm = 1 1/2” from armhole, decrease 1 stitch in the side - read DECREASE TIP-1. Repeat decrease when piece measures 8-8-9-9-10-10 and 12-13-14-15-16-17 cm = 3 1/8”-3 1/8”-3 1/2”-3 1/2”-4”-4” and 4 3/4”-5 1/8”-5 1/2”-6”-6 1/4”-6 3/4”. After all increases and decreases, there are 49-52-56-60-65-70 stitches on needle. Work until piece measures 16-17-18-19-20-21 cm = 6 1/4”-6 3/4”-7”-7 1/2”-8”-8 1/4” from armhole and at the same time, on last row from wrong side, adjust number of stitches to 49-52-58-61-64-70 stitches (35-37-39-41-43-45 cm = 13 3/4”-14 1/2”-15 1/4”-16 1/8”-17”-17 3/4” from shoulder). Switch to circular needle size 4 mm and work next row from right side as follows: 1 edge stitch in garter stitch, * knit 1, purl 2 *, repeat from *-* until 3 stitches remain on needle (towards mid front), knit 1 and finish with 2 edge stitches in garter stitch. Continue rib like this for 3 cm = 1 1/8” - NOTE: Rib should fit nicely over A.1. Loosely bind off stitches with knit over knit and purl over purl. Front piece measures approx. 38-40-42-44-46-48 cm = 15”-15 3/4”-16 1/2”-17 1/4”-18”-19” from shoulder.

LEFT FRONT PIECE (when garment is worn):
Cast on 22-22-22-22-22-22 stitches on circular needle size 4 mm = US 6 with 1 strand Alpaca + 1 strand Kid-Silk (= 2 strands). Work 1 ridge. Switch to circular needle size 5 mm = US 8 and work next row from right side as follows: Work A.2 (= 17 stitches), work 2 stitches in stockinette stitch and finish with 3 edge stitches in garter stitch towards armhole. Continue pattern back and forth like this.
When piece measures 4 cm = 1 1/2”, increase for neck line inside A.2 towards mid front - read INCREASE TIP-2. Increase like this every 4th row (i.e. every other row from right side) 8-8-9-11-12-13 times in total and then every other row (i.e. every row from right side) 17-18-17-16-16-16 times in total. At the same time when piece measures 17-14-8-11-9-7 cm = 6 3/4”-5 1/2”-3 1/8”-4 3/8”-3 1/2”-2 3/4”, increase 1 stitch in the side for armhole - continue to increase the same way as on back piece and right front piece. Work until piece measures 19-20-21-22-23-24 cm = 7 1/2”-8”-8 1/4”-9 3/4”-9”-9 1/2”, and cast on 3 new stitches at the end of next row from right side. Continue as before with A.2 towards mid front, increase for neck line and stockinette stitch but over the outermost 6 stitches towards the side work 2 ridges (i.e. this is done on the next 4 rows). Then work in stockinette stitch with 1 edge stitch in garter stitch towards the side, and A.2 towards mid front (continue increase as before). When piece measures 4 cm = 1 1/2” from armhole, decrease 1 stitch in the side - read DECREASE TIP-1. Repeat decrease when piece measures 8-8-9-9-10-10 and 12-13-14-15-16-17 cm = 3 1/8”-3 1/8”-3 1/2”-3 1/2”-4”-4” and 4 3/4”-5 1/8”-5 1/2”-6”-6 1/4”-6 3/4”. After all increases and decreases, there are 49-52-56-60-65-70 stitches on needle. Work until piece measures 16-17-18-19-20-21 cm = 6 1/4”-6 3/4”-7”-7 1/2”-8”-8 1/4” from armhole and at the same time, on last row from wrong side, adjust number of stitches to 49-52-58-61-64-70 stitches (35-37-39-41-43-45 cm = 13 3/4”-14 1/2”-15 1/4”-16 1/8”-17”-17 3/4” from shoulder). Switch to circular needle size 4 mm and work next row from right side as follows: 2 edge stitches in garter stitch towards mid front, * knit 1, purl 2 *, repeat from *-* until 2 stitches remain on needle, knit 1 and finish with 1 edge stitch in garter stitch towards the side. Continue rib like this for 3 cm = 1 1/8” - NOTE: Rib should fit nicely over A.2. Loosely bind off stitches with knit over knit and purl over purl. Front piece measures approx. 38-40-42-44-46-48 cm = 15”-15 3/4”-16 1/2”-17 1/4”-18”-19” from shoulder.

SLEEVE:
Cast on 22-24-26-28-24-26 stitches on circular needle size 5 mm = US 8 with 1 strand Alpaca + 1 strand Kid-Silk. Work stockinette stitch back and forth to sleeve cap, and cast at the same time on new stitches at the end of every row in each side as follows: Cast on 3 stitches 1 time in each side, 2 stitches 3-3-3-3-4-4 times in each side, 1 stitch 0-1-2-3-3-5 times in each side, 2 stitches 3-3-3-3-4-4 times in each side, and then 3 stitches 1 time in each side = 58-62-66-70-74-80 stitches. Put piece together and continue in the round on double pointed needles/a short circular needle. Insert 1 marker thread where piece is put together = mid under sleeve. Use marker thread later when decreasing mid under sleeve.
Work in stockinette stitch in the round. When piece measures 4 cm = 1 1/2” from where it was put together, decrease 2 stitches mid under sleeve - read DECREASE TIP-2. Decrease like this every 4-3-2-1½-1-1 cm = 1 1/2”-1 1/8”-3/4”-1/2”-3/8”-3/8” 3-4-5-6-7-9 times in total = 52-54-56-58-60-62 stitches. Work until piece measures 19-18-18-17-16-14 cm = 7 1/2”-7”-7”-6 3/4”-6 1/4”-5 1/2” from where piece was put together. Switch to double pointed needles size 4 mm = US 6 and work rib in the round (knit 1/purl 2) for 3 cm = 1 1/8”, at the same time adjust number of stitches to 54-54-57-57-60-63 on first round. Loosely bind off stitches with knit over knit and purl over purl. Sleeve measures approx. 29-29-30-30-31-31 cm = 11 3/8”-11 3/8”-11 3/4”-11 3/4”-12 1/4”-12 1/4” from cast-on edge and down. Work another sleeve the same way.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew shoulder seams inside cast-off edge. Sew side seam inside 1 edge stitch but leave an opening in each side to thread the ties through - place opening just above the rib in each side, and 2½–3 cm = 1”-1 1/8” up towards armholes.
Insert sleeves inside edge in garter stitch along armholes and fasten neatly from right side (the edge should not be loose when sewing: sew in the outermost stitch in garter stitch from right side, so that the edge in garter stitch lies nicely on top of sleeve).

TIE RIBBON:
Pick up on needle size 4 mm = US 6 with 1 strand of each quality: Approx. 6-7 stitches along rib edge at the front. Work in garter stitch back and forth until tie measures approx. 75-100 cm = 29 1/2”-39 3/8”, bind off. Knit another tie on the other front piece.

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

symbols = knit from the right side, purl from the wrong side
symbols = purl from the right side, knit from the wrong side
symbols = between 2 stitches make 1 yarn over, on next row purl yarn over to make hole
symbols = knit 2 together
symbols = slip 1 stitch knitwise, knit 1, pass slipped stitch over stitch worked
symbols = slip 1 stitch knitwise, knit 2 stitches together, pass slipped stitch over stitches worked together
diagram
diagram
signature

Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 199-48) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

to top

2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

to top

3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

to top

4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

to top

5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

to top

6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

to top

7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

to top

8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

to top

9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

to top

10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

to top

11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

to top

12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

to top

13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

to top

14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

to top

15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

to top

16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

to top

17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

to top

18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

to top

19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

to top

20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

to top

21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

to top

22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

to top

23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

to top

Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (19)

country flag Chris 06.06.2021 - 10:02:

Jeg behøver lidt hjælp med farvevalg, da det er svært at vurdere farverne på skærmen (og jeg har ikke mulighed for at besøge en fysisk butik). Hvilken farve Kid-Silk vil I anbefale til Alpaca - Skovgrøn mix 7815? Og hvilken farve Kid-Silk vil gå godt med Alpaca - Havbrise mix 7323?

user icon DROPS Design 07.06.2021 kl. 10:18:

Hei Chris. Fargevalg er ganske personlig og vanskelig å gi en 100% perfekt anbefaling. Ønsker du en mix som gir et lysere resultat eller mørk? Til f.eks DROPS Alpaca skog grønn, passer både DROPS Kid-Silk nordsjø nr. 37, mørkgrønn nr. 19 og for et lysere forslag salvie grønn nr. 34. Til DROPS Alpaca Havbrise, som både har litt grønt og blått i seg, kommer det an på om du ønsker en blåtone eller grønn tone. Sjekk ut da f.eks DROPS Kid-Silk salvie nr. 34, eplegrønn nr. 18, lys jeansblå nr. 08 eller blå tåke nr. 06. mvh DROPS design

country flag Sandrine GREKOV 04.04.2021 - 22:50:

Bonjour, Est-il possible de faire le dos et les devants plus longs que spécifié ? Une fois les dernières diminutions faites, peut-on continuer tout droit ou doit-on faire d'autres diminutions si on veut rallonger le dos et les devants ?

user icon DROPS Design 06.04.2021 kl. 14:07:

Bonjour Mme Grekov, fort probablement, vous pouvez même augmenter sur les côtés pour un effet cintré. Inspirez-vous d'un modèle de la longueur souhaitée dans la même tension si besoin. Bon tricot!

country flag Rachel Burston 25.03.2021 - 18:28:

Hi there! I can’t find any information for how many balls of yarns I would need for this. How many balls of the Drops Alpaca and Drops Kid Silk would I need for a size small? Thanks

user icon DROPS Design 26.03.2021 kl. 07:08:

Dear Mrs Burston, you will find the total weight of each yarn required for each size under the header; ie in S you will need 200 g DROPS Alpaca/50 g a bal = 4 balls Alpaca + 75 g DROPS Kid-Silk/25 g a ball = 4 balls Kid-Silk. Happy knitting!

country flag Catherine 19.01.2021 - 22:19:

Hi, I just wanted to ask you to clarify the bit where it says, "Slip right shoulder and left shoulder on to same circular needle size 5 mm = 60-62-62-64-66-68 stitches. Begin from right side and work 3 ridges in garter stitch over all stitches." Does this mean the two shoulder back pieces are together because on the pictures it looks like there are apart. Thank you.

user icon DROPS Design 20.01.2021 kl. 07:42:

Dear Catherine, you first work 2 cm on each shoulder casting on new stitches for neck at the end of right shoulder, then, after left shoulder has been worked you work from right side: the 22 stitches on left shoulder, the 16 to 24 new stitches cast on at the end of right shoulder for neck ending with the 22 stitches for left shoudler = you should have now 60 to 68 sts on needle. Happy knitting!

country flag Brianna 09.07.2020 - 18:06:

In the right front piece it says "increase 1 stitch in the side for armhole - continue to increase the same way as on back piece" does this mean to increase every 4th row 8 times and then every other row or just every other row?

user icon DROPS Design 10.07.2020 kl. 07:47:

Dear Briana, in the 3rd size you will increase for armhole 1 stitch towards armhole (1 st increased on front piece) 8 times in total every 4th row than cast on 3 sts at the end of next row towards armhole. Happy knitting!

country flag Julia Jonas 19.03.2020 - 15:29:

Would you please explain where i do increases for the right front piece ( when garment is worn) it says "When piece measures 4 cm = 1 1/2”, increase for neck line inside A.1 towards mid front - so where are the increases done? Does it mean the increases are just before the lace pattern? I have been increasing after the first 5 stitches (3 garter, 2 stocking st.)

user icon DROPS Design 19.03.2020 kl. 15:55:

Dear Mrs Jonas, when piece measures 4 cm you will increase on right front piece 1 stitch before A.1 (as explained under INCREASE-TIP 2, ie work RS row until 17 stitches remain (= A.1) make 1 yarn over and work the 17 sts in A.1 as before. And continue increasing like this, ie always just before A.1. Happy knitting!

country flag Christina 03.02.2020 - 21:40:

Jeg har nu strikket bagstykket og skal i gang med højre forstykke. Jeg kan ikke forstå at der står at jeg skal strikke 3 masker retstrik, 2 m glatstrik og så mønster. Skal man ikke se blusen som om man selv har den på og så man kigger ned på den ? Eller er "højre" set fra én der kigger hen på blusen ? Jeg kan slet ikke få det til at give mening. Den rille der er mellem glatstrik og mønster er det retstrik eller er det vrangmasker eller noget ?

user icon DROPS Design 11.02.2020 kl. 10:36:

Hej Christina, vi beskriver stykkerne som når man selv har tøjet på :)

country flag Corinne 11.08.2019 - 00:04:

Bjr, je commence le dos et suis étonnée de commencer les emmanchures qu'à 7 cm... Peut-être dois-je commencer les augmentations à 7 cm à partir des 3 rangs de côtes mousse ? Cela me paraît un peu trop tôt.... J'ai du mal à projeter le dos ... Merci de votre aide. Cordialement

user icon DROPS Design 12.08.2019 kl. 07:57:

Bonjour Corinne, mesurez à partir du rang de montage de l'une des 2 épaules, et commencez les augmentations à 7 cm, puis vous allez les répéter 19 fois au total tous les 2 rangs et vous monterez ensuite 3 m de chaque côté pour les emmanchures. Bon tricot!

country flag Christine 01.08.2019 - 11:49:

Hallo, ich habe mir das Modell gerade eben nochmal angeschaut... . Bin jetzt selbst drauf gekommen, dass die Zunahmen vor / bzw. nach dem Lochmuster gemacht werden müssen... . Dann sollte es stimmen !

country flag Christine 01.08.2019 - 11:36:

Hallo, eine sehr schöne Jacke... . Ich habe sie mit 1 Faden Alpaka Silk und 1 Faden dünner Wolle, die ich noch hatte gearbeitet... . das Rückenteil ist fertig. Nun beginne ich gerade mit dem 1. Vorderteil. Leider habe ich soeben festgestellt, dass die vorne entlang laufende Musterfolge ( gerade das macht die Jacke so apart ) nach Ihrer Anleitung so nicht entsteht... . Das Muster läuft bei angegebenen Zunahmen gerade herunter, nicht entlang der Kante ??? Bitte um Info.

user icon DROPS Design 02.08.2019 kl. 09:26:

Liebe Christine, ja, Sie haben Recht mit Ihrer Annahme, die Zunahmen werden zwischen den glatt rechten Maschen und dem Muster gemacht, also nicht direkt am vorderen Rand. Die Anleitung ist in der Hinsicht nicht ganz eindeutig formuliert, das wird noch geändert. Viel Spaß beim Weiterstricken! :-)

Post a comment to pattern DROPS 199-48

We would love to hear what you have to say about this pattern!

If you want to leave a question, please make sure you select the correct category in the form below, to speed up the answering process. Required fields are marked *.

From the #dropsfan gallery

Holiday in Rome

Christina Kjær, Denmark

Holiday in Rome

Anke, Germany

Holiday in Rome

Therese Lundberg, Sweden

See more