DROPS Alpaca
DROPS Alpaca
100% Alpaca
from 3.65 € /50g
DROPS Kid-Silk
DROPS Kid-Silk
75% Mohair, 25% Silk
from 5.05 € /25g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 29.75€.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

Holiday in Rome

Knitted wrap-around jacket in DROPS Alpaca and DROPS Kid-Silk. Piece is knitted top down with lace pattern. Size: S - XXXL

DROPS 199-48
DROPS design: Pattern z-850
Yarn group A + A or C
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SIZE:
S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL

MATERIALS:
DROPS ALPACA from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group A)
200-200-200-200-250-250 g colour 7120, light grey green
And use:
DROPS KID-SILK from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group A)
75-75-100-100-100-125 g colour 06, blue fog

KNITTING TENSION:
17 stitches in width and 22 rows vertically in stocking stitch and 1 strand of each quality = 10 x 10 cm.

NEEDLES:
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 5 mm
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 5 mm : Length 40 and 80 cm for stocking stitch.
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 4 mm
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 4 mm: Length 80 cm for rib.
Needle size is only a suggestion! If you have too many stitches on 10 cm switch to larger needles. If you have too few stitches on 10 cm switch to smaller needles.

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Alpaca
DROPS Alpaca
100% Alpaca
from 3.65 € /50g
DROPS Kid-Silk
DROPS Kid-Silk
75% Mohair, 25% Silk
from 5.05 € /25g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 29.75€.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

SAVE 30% on 6 cotton favourites!
Valid until 12.04.2024

Pattern instructions

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EXPLANATION FOR THE PATTERN:

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GARTER STITCH (back and forth):
Knit all rows.
1 ridge vertically = knit 2 rows.

PATTERN: 
See diagrams A.1 and A.2. Diagrams show all rows in pattern seen from the right side.

INCREASE TIP-1 (applies to armholes):
All increases are done from the right side.
Increase inside 3 edge stitches in garter stitch. Increase 1 stitch by making 1 yarn over. On next row (wrong side) purl yarn over twisted to avoid holes. Then work the increased stitches in stocking stitch.

INCREASE TIP-2 (applies to neckline at the front):
Increase for neck inside 17 stitches in A.1/A.2. Increase 1 stitch by making 1 yarn over. On next row (wrong side) purl yarn over twisted to avoid holes. Then work the increased stitches in stocking stitch.

DECREASE TIP-1 (applies to sides of body):
All decreases are done from the right side!
Decrease inside 1 edge stitch in garter stitch.
Decrease as follows after 1 edge stitch in garter stitch: Slip 1 stitch knitwise, knit 1, pass slipped stitch over stitch worked.
Decrease as follows before 1 edge stitch in garter stitch: Work until 2 stitches remain before edge stitch, knit 2 together. 

DECREASE TIP-2 (applies to mid under sleeves):
Work until 3 stitches remain before marker thread, knit 2 together, knit 2 stitches (marker thread is between these 2 stitches), slip 1 stitch knitwise, knit 1, pass slipped stitch over stitch worked (= 2 stitches decreased). 
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START THE PIECE HERE:

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WRAP-AOURND JACKET - SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE:
Front pieces and back piece are worked back and forth on circular needle, top down. Then pick up stitches for ties.
Sleeve cap is worked back and forth on circular needle, top down. Then work the rest of sleeve in the round on circular needle/double pointed needles top down.

RIGHT SHOULDER BACK (when garment is worn):
Cast on 22-22-22-22-22-22 stitches on circular needle size 4 mm with 1 strand Alpaca + 1 strand Kid-Silk (= 2 strands). Work 1 ridge in GARTER STITCH - read explanation above. Switch to circular needle size 5 mm, and continue with garter stitch until piece measures approx. 2 cm, on last row from wrong side cast on 16-18-18-20-22-24 new stitches on needle = 38-40-40-42-44-46 stitches. Put piece aside and work the left shoulder at the back.

LEFT SHOULDER BACK (when garment is worn):
Cast on 22-22-22-22-22-22 stitches on circular needle size 4 mm with 1 strand Alpaca + 1 strand Kid-Silk (= 2 strands). Work 1 ridge in GARTER STITCH - read explanation above. Switch to circular needle size 5 mm, and continue with garter stitch until piece measures approx. 2 cm, adjust so that last row is worked from wrong side.
Now work parts together and work back piece as explained below.

BACK PIECE:
Slip right shoulder and left shoulder on to same circular needle size 5 mm = 60-62-62-64-66-68 stitches. Begin from right side and work 3 ridges in garter stitch over all stitches. Then work in stocking stitch with 3 edge stitches in garter stitch in each side towards armholes. When piece measures 17-14-8-11-9-7 cm, increase 1 stitch in each side for armholes – read INCREASE TIP-1. Increase like this every 4th-4th-4th-2nd-2nd-2nd row, 2-4-8-11-15-19 times in total in each side. Continue to work until piece measures 19-20-21-22-23-24 cm. Now cast on 3 new stitches for armholes at the end of the next 2 rows = 70-76-84-92-102-112 stitches. Work 4 rows in stocking stitch with 6 stitches in garter stitch in each side. Then work in stocking stitch with 1 edge stitch in garter stitch in each side. When piece measures 4 cm from armhole, decrease 1 stitch in each side - read DECREASE TIP-1 (= 2 stitches decreased). Repeat decrease when piece measures 8 and 12 cm = 64-70-78-86-96-106 stitches. Work until piece measures 16-17-18-19-20-21 cm from armhole, at the same time, on last row from wrong side adjust number of stitches to 64-70-79-85-97-106 stitches (back piece measures now approx. 35-37-39-41-43-45 cm from shoulder). Switch to circular needle size 4 mm and work next row from right side as follows: 1 edge stitch in garter stitch, * purl 2, knit 1 *, repeat from *-* until 3 stitches remain on needle, purl 2 and finish with 1 edge stitch in garter stitch. Continue rib like this for 3 cm. Loosely cast off stitches with knit over knit and purl over purl. Back piece measures approx. 38-40-42-44-46-48 cm from shoulder.

RIGHT FRONT PIECE (when garment is worn):
Cast on 22-22-22-22-22-22 stitches on circular needle size 4 mm with 1 strand Alpaca + 1 strand Kid-Silk (= 2 strands). Work 1 ridge. Switch to circular needle size 5 mm and work next row from right side as follows: 3 edge stitches in garter stitch towards armhole, 2-2-2-2-2-2-2 stitches in stocking stitch, A.1 (= 17 stitches). Continue pattern back and forth like this.
When piece measures 4 cm, increase for neck line inside A.1 towards mid front - read INCREASE TIP-2. Increase like this every 4th row (i.e. every other row from right side) 8-8-9-11-12-13 times in total and then every other row (i.e. every row from right side) 17-18-17-16-16-16 times in total. At the same time when piece measures 17-14-8-11-9-7 cm, increase 1 stitch in the side for armhole - continue to increase the same way as on back piece. Work until piece measures 19-20-21-22-23-24 cm, and cast on 3 new stitches at the end of next row from wrong side. Continue as before with A.1 towards mid front, increase for neck line and stocking stitch but over the outermost 6 stitches towards the side work 2 ridges (i.e. this is done on the next 4 rows). Then work in stocking stitch with 1 edge stitch in garter stitch towards the side, and A.1 towards mid front (continue increase as before). When piece measures 4 cm from armhole, decrease 1 stitch in the side - read DECREASE TIP-1. Repeat decrease when piece measures 8-8-9-9-10-10 and 12-13-14-15-16-17 cm. After all increases and decreases, there are 49-52-56-60-65-70 stitches on needle. Work until piece measures 16-17-18-19-20-21 cm from armhole and at the same time, on last row from wrong side, adjust number of stitches to 49-52-58-61-64-70 stitches (35-37-39-41-43-45 cm from shoulder). Switch to circular needle size 4 mm and work next row from right side as follows: 1 edge stitch in garter stitch, * knit 1, purl 2 *, repeat from *-* until 3 stitches remain on needle (towards mid front), knit 1 and finish with 2 edge stitches in garter stitch. Continue rib like this for 3 cm - NOTE: Rib should fit nicely over A.1. Loosely cast off stitches with knit over knit and purl over purl. Front piece measures approx. 38-40-42-44-46-48 cm from shoulder.

LEFT FRONT PIECE (when garment is worn):
Cast on 22-22-22-22-22-22 stitches on circular needle size 4 mm with 1 strand Alpaca + 1 strand Kid-Silk (= 2 strands). Work 1 ridge. Switch to circular needle size 5 mm and work next row from right side as follows: Work A.2 (= 17 stitches), work 2 stitches in stocking stitch and finish with 3 edge stitches in garter stitch towards armhole. Continue pattern back and forth like this.
When piece measures 4 cm, increase for neck line inside A.2 towards mid front - read INCREASE TIP-2. Increase like this every 4th row (i.e. every other row from right side) 8-8-9-11-12-13 times in total and then every other row (i.e. every row from right side) 17-18-17-16-16-16 times in total. At the same time when piece measures 17-14-8-11-9-7 cm, increase 1 stitch in the side for armhole - continue to increase the same way as on back piece and right front piece. Work until piece measures 19-20-21-22-23-24 cm, and cast on 3 new stitches at the end of next row from right side. Continue as before with A.2 towards mid front, increase for neck line and stocking stitch but over the outermost 6 stitches towards the side work 2 ridges (i.e. this is done on the next 4 rows). Then work in stocking stitch with 1 edge stitch in garter stitch towards the side, and A.2 towards mid front (continue increase as before). When piece measures 4 cm from armhole, decrease 1 stitch in the side - read DECREASE TIP-1. Repeat decrease when piece measures 8-8-9-9-10-10 and 12-13-14-15-16-17 cm. After all increases and decreases, there are 49-52-56-60-65-70 stitches on needle. Work until piece measures 16-17-18-19-20-21 cm from armhole and at the same time, on last row from wrong side, adjust number of stitches to 49-52-58-61-64-70 stitches (35-37-39-41-43-45 cm from shoulder). Switch to circular needle size 4 mm and work next row from right side as follows: 2 edge stitches in garter stitch towards mid front, * knit 1, purl 2 *, repeat from *-* until 2 stitches remain on needle, knit 1 and finish with 1 edge stitch in garter stitch towards the side. Continue rib like this for 3 cm - NOTE: Rib should fit nicely over A.2. Loosely cast off stitches with knit over knit and purl over purl. Front piece measures approx. 38-40-42-44-46-48 cm from shoulder.

SLEEVE:
Cast on 22-24-26-28-24-26 stitches on circular needle size 5 mm with 1 strand Alpaca + 1 strand Kid-Silk. Work stocking stitch back and forth to sleeve cap, and cast at the same time on new stitches at the end of every row in each side as follows: Cast on 3 stitches 1 time in each side, 2 stitches 3-3-3-3-4-4 times in each side, 1 stitch 0-1-2-3-3-5 times in each side, 2 stitches 3-3-3-3-4-4 times in each side, and then 3 stitches 1 time in each side = 58-62-66-70-74-80 stitches. Put piece together and continue in the round on double pointed needles/a short circular needle. Insert 1 marker thread where piece is put together = mid under sleeve. Use marker thread later when decreasing mid under sleeve.
Work in stocking stitch in the round. When piece measures 4 cm from where it was put together, decrease 2 stitches mid under sleeve - read DECREASE TIP-2. Decrease like this every 4-3-2-1½-1-1 cm 3-4-5-6-7-9 times in total = 52-54-56-58-60-62 stitches. Work until piece measures 19-18-18-17-16-14 cm from where piece was put together. Switch to double pointed needles size 4 mm and work rib in the round (knit 1/purl 2) for 3 cm, at the same time adjust number of stitches to 54-54-57-57-60-63 on first round. Loosely cast off stitches with knit over knit and purl over purl. Sleeve measures approx. 29-29-30-30-31-31 cm from cast-on edge and down. Work another sleeve the same way.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew shoulder seams inside cast-off edge. Sew side seam inside 1 edge stitch but leave an opening in each side to thread the ties through - place opening just above the rib in each side, and 2½–3 cm up towards armholes.
Insert sleeves inside edge in garter stitch along armholes and fasten neatly from right side (the edge should not be loose when sewing: sew in the outermost stitch in garter stitch from right side, so that the edge in garter stitch lies nicely on top of sleeve).

TIE RIBBON:
Pick up on needle size 4 mm with 1 strand of each quality: Approx. 6-7 stitches along rib edge at the front. Work in garter stitch back and forth until tie measures approx. 75-100 cm, cast off. Knit another tie on the other front piece.

Diagram

symbols = knit from the right side, purl from the wrong side
symbols = purl from the right side, knit from the wrong side
symbols = between 2 stitches make 1 yarn over, on next row purl yarn over to make hole
symbols = knit 2 together
symbols = slip 1 stitch knitwise, knit 1, pass slipped stitch over stitch worked
symbols = slip 1 stitch knitwise, knit 2 stitches together, pass slipped stitch over stitches worked together
diagram
diagram

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size is only meant as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn calculator, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the calculator will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be calculated separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn calculator

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn calculator, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn calculator will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a tension/gauge swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (28)

country flag Riviere wrote:

Merci je viens de comprendre. J ai utilisé la laine air et ça donne un résultat très joli !

13.11.2023 - 16:18

country flag Riviere wrote:

Ma question est : doit on relever les 7 mailles des liens dans l emplacement des 3 cm non cousu des côtés soit au dessus des côtes Merci

13.11.2023 - 16:13

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Riviere, non, cet espace est prévu pour pouvoir y passer les liens, vous relevez les mailles des lien le long du bas des côtes, en bas des devants, autrement dit à droite du devant droit, vu sur l'endroit et à gauche du devant gauche, vu sur l'endroit, cf schéma où ces liens (au moins celui du devant droit) a été dessiné. Bon tricot!

14.11.2023 - 10:08

country flag Riviere wrote:

Bonjour, j en suis aux liens. Dans l assemblage on laisse une ouverture de 3cm au dessus des cotes. Et au liteau des explications des lien, on relève 7 mailles le long des côtes. L espace dans les côtés ne doivent ils pas êtres au niveau des liens ? Merci

13.11.2023 - 13:00

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Riviere, on relève les mailles des liens le long des rangs des côtes, le long de chacun des devants pour tricoter les liens, et, lors de l'assemblage des côtés, laissez une ouverture d'environ 2,5 à 3 cm pour y passer les liens, vous pouvez attendre d'avoir terminé les liens pour faire les coutures, ce sera plus facile de visualiser où prévoir cette ouverture. Bon tricot!

13.11.2023 - 16:12

country flag Alyssa wrote:

Is the indicated knitting gauge (of 17 stitches in width and 22 rows vertically) the knitting gauge for the 4 mm or 5 mm needles, as both are used in the pattern? Thank you!

17.09.2023 - 12:37

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Alyssa, you use the 5mm for the stocking stitch in the pattern. Since the gauge is worked in stocking stitch then you should use the 5mm needles. Happy knitting!

17.09.2023 - 21:29

country flag Micaela wrote:

Hei, en ymmärrä mitä tämä tarkoittaa: "Samanaikaisesti kun työn pituus on 17-14-8-11-9-7 cm, lisää sivuun kädentietä varten 1 silmukka. Toista kädentien lisäykset kuten takana. " Eli mitä toistetaan ja miten? Missä takana? Kiitos!

18.05.2023 - 13:31

DROPS Design answered:

Hei, kädentien lisäykset toistetaan kuten takakappaleessa. Eli lisää kädentien reunaan 1 silmukka ja toista lisäys joka 4.-4.-4.-2.-2.-2. kerros yhteensä 2-4-8-11-15-19 kertaa.

18.05.2023 - 16:21

country flag Kat wrote:

Hallo! Ich stricke gerade das Modell und bin ganz begeistert. Auf den Bildern der anderen Strickerinnen hat die Jacke lange Ärmel. Wie geht das? Gibt es vielleicht Tipps dazu/eine Vorlage oder ein anderes Modell, von dem ich die Ärmel übernehmen könnte? Vielen Dank!

12.09.2022 - 11:12

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Kat, Sie können sich von ähnlichn Modellen mit langen Ärmeln und die gleiche Maschenprobe inspirieren. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

12.09.2022 - 12:10

country flag Laplus wrote:

Bonjour, pourquoi vos modèles sont-ils tjrs aussi compliqués à comprendre même pour une tricoteuse avertie? ! C'est décourageant malgré les beaux modèles proposés....je vais tenter à ma mode et si pas j'abandonnerai , le tricot doit resté un plaisir et pas une casse-tête... Dommage Belle journée!

04.06.2022 - 09:22

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Laplus, les modèles sont écrits par des stylistes scandinaves qui ont probablement une façon différente d'écrire que celle à laquelle vous êtes habituée, mais si vous suivez bien les indications pas à pas, vous y arriverez, et au pire, posez votre question ici ou bien demandez conseil à votre magasin, on vous aidera, même par mail ou téléphone. Bon tricot!

07.06.2022 - 10:37

country flag Freya wrote:

Hi! I want to ask about the ribbon tie. Is it right that the ribbon in on the each side of the front piece?

07.04.2022 - 06:37

DROPS Design answered:

Hi Freya, Yes, the ribbon tie comes from the sides of the front pieces and around the waist to the front. Happy knitting!

07.04.2022 - 06:55

country flag Anna wrote:

"Increase inside 3 edge stitches in garter stitch. Increase 1 stitch by making 1 yarn over. On next row (wrong side) purl yarn over twisted to avoid holes. Then work the increased stitches in stocking stitch." Can you help me explain this part?

06.04.2022 - 13:44

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Anna, when working the increases for the armholes, increase at the beginning of the row from RS as follows: work 3 sts in garter stitch, make 1 yarn over / increase at the end of the row from WS as follows: work until 3 sts remain, make 1 yarn over, work 3 sts in garter stitch. On the next row from wrong side, purl the yarn over twisted (the new stitches are worked in stocking stitch, not in garter stitch). Happy knitting!

06.04.2022 - 16:31

country flag Chris wrote:

Jeg behøver lidt hjælp med farvevalg, da det er svært at vurdere farverne på skærmen (og jeg har ikke mulighed for at besøge en fysisk butik). Hvilken farve Kid-Silk vil I anbefale til Alpaca - Skovgrøn mix 7815? Og hvilken farve Kid-Silk vil gå godt med Alpaca - Havbrise mix 7323?

06.06.2021 - 10:02

DROPS Design answered:

Hei Chris. Fargevalg er ganske personlig og vanskelig å gi en 100% perfekt anbefaling. Ønsker du en mix som gir et lysere resultat eller mørk? Til f.eks DROPS Alpaca skog grønn, passer både DROPS Kid-Silk nordsjø nr. 37, mørkgrønn nr. 19 og for et lysere forslag salvie grønn nr. 34. Til DROPS Alpaca Havbrise, som både har litt grønt og blått i seg, kommer det an på om du ønsker en blåtone eller grønn tone. Sjekk ut da f.eks DROPS Kid-Silk salvie nr. 34, eplegrønn nr. 18, lys jeansblå nr. 08 eller blå tåke nr. 06. mvh DROPS design

07.06.2021 - 10:18