DROPS / 200 / 26

Spring Symmetry by DROPS Design

Knitted sweater in DROPS Muskat. The piece is worked top down with round yoke, lace pattern and ¾-length sleeves. Sizes S - XXXL.

DROPS Design: Pattern no r-747
Yarn group B
-------------------------------------------------------

SIZES:
S - M - L - XL - XXL – XXXL

Finished measurements:
Chest measurements: 86-96-104-114-124-134 cm = 33 7/8”-37 3/4”-41”-45”-48 3/4”-52 3/4”
Full length: 56-58-60-62-64-66 cm = 22"-22 3/4"-23 5/8"-24 3/8"-25 1/4"-26"

All measurements in charts are in cm.

MATERIALS:
DROPS MUSKAT from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group B)
550-600-650-700-750-850 g color 07, light yellow

KNITTING GAUGE:
21 stitches in width and 28 rows in height with stockinette stitch = 10 x 10 cm = 4” x 4”.

NEEDLES:
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 4 MM = US 6.
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 4 MM = US 6: length 40 cm = 16” and 80 cm = 32” for stockinette stitch.
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 3 MM = US 2,5.
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 3 MM = US 2,5: length 40 cm = 16” and 80 cm = 32” for rib and garter stitch edge.
Needle size is only a guide. If you get too many stitches on 10 cm = 4”, change to a larger needle size, if you get too few stitches on 10 cm = 4”, change to a smaller needle size.

Have you knitted/crocheted this or any other of our designs? Tag your pictures in social media with #dropsdesign so we can see them!

Want to use a different yarn? Try our yarn converter!
Not sure which size you should choose? Then it might help you to know that the model in the picture is approx. 5 ft 7 in and uses size S or M. If you are making a sweater, cardigan, dress or similar garment, you will find a graphic with the measurements of the finished garment (in cm) at the bottom of the pattern.

100% Cotton
from 3.00 $ /50g
DROPS Muskat uni colour DROPS Muskat uni colour 3.00 $ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
Order
DROPS Needles & Hooks
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 33.00$. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
-------------------------------------------------------

EXPLANATIONS FOR THE PATTERN:

-------------------------------------------------------

PATTERN:
See diagrams A.1 to A.4 (note that sometimes the pattern is worked on all rounds).

INCREASE TIP-1 (evenly spaced):
To work out how to increase evenly, count the total number of stitches on needle (e.g. 108 stitches) and divide by the number of increases to be made.(e.g. 36) = 3.
In this example, increase by making 1 yarn over after each 3rd stitch. On the next round knit the yarn overs twisted to avoid holes.

DECREASE TIP (for mid under sleeves):
Decrease 1 stitch on each side of the marker thread as follows: Work until there are 2 stitches left before the marker thread, knit 2 together, marker thread, slip 1 stitch as if to knit, knit 1 and pass the slipped stitch over the knitted stitch (= 2 stitches decreased).

-------------------------------------------------------

START THE PIECE HERE:

-------------------------------------------------------

SWEATER - SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE:
The neck and body are worked in the round with circular needle, top down. The yoke is divided for body and sleeves. The body is continued in the round with circular needle, top down. The sleeves are worked in the round with short circular needle/double pointed needles, top down.

NECK:
Cast on 108-112-116-120-124-128 stitches with short circular needle size 3 mm = US 2,5 and Muskat. Work A.1 in the round. Continue this pattern until A.1 has been worked 1 time in height.
Knit 1 round where you increase 36-36-38-40-40-42 stitches evenly spaced – read INCREASE TIP-1 = 144-148-154-160-164-170 stitches. Then work yoke as described below.

YOKE:
Change to circular needle size 4 mm = US 6 and work stockinette stitch in the round. AT THE SAME TIME increase as described below. REMEMBER THE KNITTING GAUGE!
When the piece measures 4-5-5-5-6-6 cm = 1 1/2”-2”-2”-2”-2 3/8”-2 3/8” from the cast-on edge increase 30-44-50-58-60-62 stitches evenly spaced = 174-192-204-218-224-232 stitches. Continue with stockinette stitch.
When the piece measures 6-7-8-9-10-11 cm = 2 3/8”-2 3/4”-3 1/8”-3 1/2”-4”-4 3/8” from the cast-on edge increase 26-38-46-52-56-58 stitches evenly spaced = 200-230-250-270-280-290 stitches.
Work 1 round with stockinette stitch. Then work A.2 in the round (= 20-23-25-27-28-29 repeats of 10 stitches). Continue this pattern, but on the round marked with an arrow in A.2, displace the start of the round 2 stitches to the left; i.e. slip the first 2 stitches onto the right needle without working them, then work A.2 in the round. The 2 stitches which were slipped onto the right needle are worked in the last repeat of A.2. The next round starts as usual.
When A.2 has been completed there are 240-276-300-324-336-348 stitches on the needle.
Continue in the round with stockinette stitch. AT THE SAME TIME increase as described below.
When the piece measures 15-16-17-18-20-21 cm = 6”-6 1/4”-6 3/4”-7”-8”-8 1/4” from the cast-on edge increase 20-20-22-24-28-30 stitches evenly spaced = 260-296-322-348-364-378 stitches. Continue with stockinette stitch.
When the piece measures 17-18-19-21-23-25 cm = 6 3/4”-7”-7 1/2”-8 1/4”-9”-9 3/4” from the cast-on edge increase 10-14-20-22-26-28 stitches evenly spaced = 270-310-342-370-390-406 stitches.
Continue in the round with stockinette stitch until the piece measures 18-20-22-24-26-28 cm = 7”-8”-8 3/4”-9 1/2”-10 1/4”-11” from the cast-on edge mid front.
Now divide the yoke for body and sleeves as follows: Work 41-46-50-55-59-63 stitches in stockinette stitch (= ½ back piece), place the next 53-63-71-75-77-77 stitches on 1 thread for sleeve, cast on 8-8-10-10-12-14 new stitches on the needle (= in side under sleeve), work 82-92-100-110-118-126 stitches in stockinette stitch (= front piece), place the next 53-63-71-75-77-77 stitches on 1 thread for sleeve, cast on 8-8-10-10-12-14 new stitches on the needle (= in side under sleeve) and work the remaining 41-46-50-55-59-63 stitches in stockinette stitch (= ½ back piece). Cut the strand. Body and sleeves are finished separately. THE PIECE IS NOW MEASURED FROM HERE!

BODY:
= 180-200-220-240-260-280 stitches. Start the round on the one side of the piece, in the middle of the 8-8-10-10-12-14 stitches under the sleeve. Work A.3 in the round (= 18-20-22-24-26-28 repeats of 10 stitches). Continue this pattern, but on the round marked with an arrow in A.3, displace the start of the round 2 stitches to the left in the same way as in A.2.
When A.3 has been completed, work 1 round of stockinette stitch where you increase 10 stitches evenly spaced in all sizes = 190-210-230-250-270-290 stitches. Continue in the round with stockinette stitch and repeat the increase when the piece measures 14-14-14-14-16-16 cm = 5 1/2”-5 1/2”-5 1/2”-5 1/2”-6 1/4”-6 1/4” from the division = 200-220-240-260-280-300 stitches.
Now work A.3 in the round again (= 20-22-24-26-28-30 repeats of 10 stitches).
When A.3 has been completed work stockinette stitch until the piece measures 28 cm = 11” from the division in all sizes (or to desired length; there is approx. 4 cm = 1 1/2” to finished length).
Knit 1 round where you increase 64-74-78-88-92-96 stitches evenly spaced = 264-294-318-348-372-396 stitches. This is done to avoid the rib being tight.
Change to circular needle size 3 mm = US 2,5 and work rib in the round (= knit 3 / purl 3) for 4 cm = 1 1/2”. Change to circular needle size 4 mm = US 6 and loosely bind off with knit over knit and purl over purl. The sweater measures approx. 56-58-60-62-64-66 cm = 22"-22 3/4"-23 5/8"-24 3/8"-25 1/4"-26" from the shoulder down.

SLEEVE:
Place the 53-63-71-75-77-77 stitches from the thread on the one side of the piece on short circular needle or double pointed needles size 4 mm = US 6 and knit up 1 stitch in each of the 8-8-10-10-12-14 stitches cast on under sleeve = 61-71-81-85-89-91 stitches. Insert 1 marker thread in the middle of the 8-8-10-10-12-14 stitches under the sleeve. Allow the marker thread to follow your work onwards – it will be used when decreasing mid under sleeve.
Start the round by the marker thread and work the first round as follows: Work 0-0-0-2-4-0 stitches in stockinette stitch, work A.4A (= 10 stitches), A.4B over the next 40-50-60-60-60-70 stitches (= 4-5-6-6-6-7 repeats of 10 stitches), A.4C (= 11 stitches) and finish with 0-0-0-2-4-0 stitches in stockinette stitch. Continue this pattern until A.4 has been worked 1 time in height, then work stockinette stitch in the round.
AT THE SAME TIME when the piece measures 3-3-2-2-2-2 cm = 1 1/8”-1 1/8”-3/4”-3/4”-3/4”-3/4” from the division, decrease 2 stitches mid under sleeve – read DECREASE TIP. Decrease like this every 6-2½-1½-1½-1½-1 cm = 2 3/8”-1”-1/2”-1/2”-1/2”-3/8” a total of 5-9-13-13-14-14 times = 51-53-55-59-61-63 stitches (stitches which do not fit into A.4 when decreasing are worked in stockinette stitch).
Work until the sleeve measures 29-27-26-24-23-21 cm = 11 3/8”-10 5/8”-10 1/4”-9 1/2”-9”-8 1/4” from the division (or to desired length; there is approx. 4 cm = 1 1/2” left to finished length. NOTE: Shorter measurements in larger sizes due to wider neck and longer yoke). Knit 1 round where you increase 3-1-5-1-5-3 stitches evenly spaced = 54-54-60-60-66-66 stitches. Change to double pointed needles size 3 mm = US 2,5 and work rib in the round (= knit 3 / purl 3) for 4 cm = 1 1/2”. Change back to double pointed needles size 4 mm = US 6. Loosely bind off with knit over knit and purl over purl. The sleeve measures approx. 33-31-30-28-27-25 cm = 13”-12 1/4”-11 3/4”-11”-10 5/8”-9 3/4” from the division. Work the other sleeve in the same

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

= knit
= purl
= between 2 stitches make 1 yarn over; on next round knit the yarn over to leave a hole
= between 2 stitches make 1 yarn over; on next round knit the yarn over twisted to avoid a hole
= knit 2 together
= slip 1 stitch as if to knit, knit 1 and pass the slipped stitch over the knitted stitch
= slip 1 stitch as if to knit, knit 2 together and pass the slipped stitch over the knitted together stitches
= there is no stitch in this square because it was decreased earlier; go straight to next symbol in diagram


Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 200-26) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

to top

2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

to top

3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

to top

4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

to top

5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

to top

6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

to top

7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

to top

8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

to top

9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

to top

10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

to top

11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

to top

12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

to top

13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

to top

14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

to top

15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

to top

16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

to top

17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

to top

18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

to top

19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

to top

20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

to top

21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

to top

22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

to top

23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

to top

Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (15)

Caroline 26.09.2019 - 00:02:

Dans A.2 et A.3 à la fin du tour avec la flèche (décalage de 2 mailles), est-ce que je commence le motif (1 m end’, 1m. Glisser, 1 m endroit, passer m. Glisser par dessus m. Tricoter) dès la prochaine maille qui se présente sur l’aiguille de gauche ( ce qui était la 3ieme maille au tour précédent) ? Donc que le début des tours suivants commencent 2 mailles plus loin.

DROPS Design 26.09.2019 kl. 10:43:

Bonjour Caroline, glissez les 2 premières mailles du début du tour sans les tricoter, et tricotez le 1er A.2: la dernière maille du 1er A.2 se tricote avec les 2 premières mailles du A.2 suivant, continuez ainsi jusqu'à la fin du tour, la dernière maille du dernier A.2 se tricotera avec les 2 premières mailles glissées au début du tour (le jeté = première maille du tour). Ce sera la même chose dans A.3, et dans A.4 (la dernière m de A.4A se tricote avec les 2 premières m de A.4B, puis la dernière m de A.4B se tricote avec les 2 premières m du A.4B suivant/et de A.4C à la fin du tour). Bon tricot!

Marie-Line 16.08.2019 - 10:11:

Bonjour MERCI pour la rapidité de votre réponse....effectivement il me manquait 1 jeté dans chaque section du rang 13...J'ai défait et recommencé...c'est parfait du coup...MERCI à vous pour votre aide.

Marie-Line 15.08.2019 - 17:14:

Bonjour je réalise ce modèle et j ai un souci dans la diagramme A2 après le 14ème rang... je ne tombe pas juste pour faire le 15ème rang...et je ne vois vraiment pas d'où vient le problème..

DROPS Design 16.08.2019 kl. 08:53:

Bonjour Marie-Line, avez-vous bien tricoté le rang 13 comme les rangs 11 et 9? on diminue 2 m aux rangs 8, 10 et 12 = il doit rester 8 m + on doit avoir 4 jetés aux rangs 9, 11 et 13 + 2 diminutions = le nombre de mailles est de nouveau à 10. Bon tricot!

Anna 28.03.2019 - 11:04:

Liebes Team, sehr schöne Anleitung, aber mir sind alle Modelle zu groß und ich muss sie immer extra anpassen und umrechnen (trage Größe XS oder XXS). Warum gibt es denn alle Drops-Anleitungen bis Größe XXXL, aber nicht für kleine Konfektionsgrößen?

DROPS Design 01.04.2019 kl. 12:04:

Liebe Anna, die meisten unserer Anleitungen beginnen mit der Größe S - einige schon mit XS - leider können wir nicht jeder Anleitung nach jeder Anfrage anpassen, aber gerne nehmen Sie Kontakt mit Ihrem DROPS Laden/Strickforum auf, um persönnliche Hilfe zu bekommen. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

Lucyna Pietrasik 19.03.2019 - 11:09:

Witam.czy długość robótki mierzyć zawsze od ostatniego rzędu nabierania oczek ?czy kolejną długość mierzyć zawsze od pierszego rzędu dodanych oczek?

DROPS Design 19.03.2019 kl. 18:45:

Witaj Lucyno! Długość karczku jest mierzona zawsze od rzędu nabierania oczek, kolejna długość tzn. przód jest mierzona od momentu podziału robótki, czyli od rzędu, w którym były nabierane oczka na boku, pod rękawem. Powodzenia!

Mirtha 18.03.2019 - 18:59:

Precioso diseño. Ya hice uno color rosa , y ahora empiezo uno blanco. Muchas gracias 🥳🎉🎈😘

Mirtha 12.03.2019 - 00:00:

Muchas gracias 😅

Mirtha 11.03.2019 - 23:56:

Ya me he enterado. Problema solucionado. Ya no necesito mas explicaciones. 😅

Mirtha 11.03.2019 - 15:38:

No entiendo como se hacen 4 lazadas seguidas; alguien me lo puede decir ?. He llegado a ese punto y no he podido seguir🤔🙏🏼🙏🏼

DROPS Design 11.03.2019 kl. 23:31:

Hola Mirtha. En el centro del diagrama no tienes 4 lazadas seguidas, son 1 lazada 1 derecho, 1 lazada, 1 derecho, 1 lazada, 1 derecho, 1 lazada.

Eby 11.03.2019 - 11:04:

There are no diagrams A.3A and A.3B for knitting sleeves.

DROPS Design 11.03.2019 kl. 14:50:

Dear Eby, you are right, we will check sleeves pattern and update diagram or pattern. Thank you. Happy knitting!

Post a comment to pattern DROPS 200-26

We would love to hear what you have to say about this pattern!

If you want to leave a question, please make sure you select the correct category in the form below, to speed up the answering process. Required fields are marked *.