Slice of Summer by DROPS Design
Crocheted shawl in DROPS Safran. Piece is crocheted top down with bobbles, lace pattern and stripes.
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Yarn group A
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SIZE:
Measurements: Width at top: approx. 150 cm = 59” Height in the middle: approx. 70 cm = 27 1/2”
MATERIALS:
DROPS SAFRAN from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group A)
150 g color 11, strong yellow
100 g color 18, off white
100 g color 10, yellow
CROCHET GAUGE:
22 double crochets in width and 12 rows vertically = 10 x 10 cm = 4” x 4”.
CROCHET HOOK:
DROPS CROCHET HOOK SIZE 3.5 mm = US E/4
Hook size is only a suggestion! If you have too many stitches on 10 cm = 4” switch to larger hook. If you have too few stitches on 10 cm = 4” switch to smaller hook.
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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here
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DROPS Safran 100% Cotton |
from 2.35 $ /50g | Order | ||||
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DROPS Needles & Hooks | ||||||
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PATTERN:
See diagrams A.1 to A.13.
Diagram A.1 shows the entire beginning of piece.
Diagrams A.3, A.5, A.7, A.9, A.11 and A.13 show the middle of shawl. Chain space in the middle of these diagrams = middle space.
Diagrams A.2, A.4, A.6, A.8, A.10 and A.12 show half the shawl. Therefore read the diagrams from right to left the first time a row is worked, then work in the middle of shawl, then read diagrams from left to right the second time a row is worked.
STRIPES:
See number in diagram.
1 = off white
2 = yellow
3 = strong yellow
CROCHET INFORMATION:
Replace first double crochet at beginning of row with 3 chain stitches.
Replace first treble crochet at beginning of row with 4 chain stitches.
COLOR CHANGE (worked back and forth):
When changing color work as follows: Work last double crochet/ treble crochet with first color but wait with last pull through, switch to next color and work last pull through, then work next double crochet/treble crochet.
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START THE PIECE HERE:
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SHAWL - SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE:
Piece is worked back and forth, top down. Read PATTERN and STRIPES.
SHAWL:
Work from A.1 to A.12 - read CROCHET INFO and COLOR CHANGE, as follows:
WORK A.1 AS FOLLOWS:
Work 4 chain stitches on hook size 3.5 mm = US E/4 with Safran and form a ring with 1 slip stitch in first stitch. Work back and forth according to diagram A.1. When A.1 has been worked, there are 11 stitches on each side of middle space (= 22 stitches in + middle space in total). REMEMBER THE CROCHET GAUGE!
WORK A.2 AND A.3 AS FOLLOWS:
First row = wrong side.
Work A.2a over first double crochet, work A.2b over the next 10 stitches, work A.2c, work A.3 over middle space, work A.2c, work A.2b over the next 10 stitches and finish with A.2a over last double crochet. When entire A.2 and A.3 have been worked vertically, there are 37 double crochets on each side of middle space (= 74 double crochets in + middle space in total).
WORK A.4 AND A.5 AS FOLLOWS:
First row = wrong side.
Work A.4a over first double crochet, work A.4b over the next 36 stitches (= 3 times in width), work A.4c, work A.5 over middle space, work A.4c, work A.4b over the next 36 double crochets (= 3 times in width) and finish with A.4a over last double crochet. When entire A.4 and A.5 have been worked vertically, there are 71 double crochets on each side of middle space (= 142 double crochets in + middle space in total).
WORK A.6 AND A.7 AS FOLLOWS:
First row = wrong side.
Work A.6a over first double crochet, work A.6b over the next 70 double crochets (= 5 times in width), work A.6c, work A.7 over middle space, work A.6c, work A.6b over the next 70 double crochets (= 5 times in width) and finish with A.6a over last double crochet. When entire A.6 and A.7 have been worked vertically, there are 28 chain spaces on each side of middle space (= 56 chain spaces in + middle space in total).
WORK A.8 AND A.9 AS FOLLOWS:
First row = right side.
Work A.8a over first treble crochet, work A.8b over the next 28 chain spaces (= 7 times in width), work A.8c, work A.9 over middle space, work A.8c, work A.8b over the next 28 chain spaces (= 7 times in width) and finish with A.8a over last treble crochet. When entire A.8 and A.9 have been worked vertically, there are 37 chain spaces on each side of middle space (= 74 chain spaces in + middle space in total).
WORK A.10 AND A.11 AS FOLLOWS:
First row = wrong side.
Work A.10a over first double crochet, work A.10b over the next 36 chain spaces (= 9 times in width), work A.10c, work A.11 over middle space, work A.10c, work A.10b over the next 36 chain spaces (= 9 times in width) and finish with A.10a over last double crochet. When entire A.10 and A.11 have been worked vertically, there are 155 double crochets on each side of middle space (= 310 double crochets in + middle space in total).
WORK A.12 AND A.13 AS FOLLOWS:
First row = wrong side.
Work A.12a over first double crochet, work A.12b over the next 154 double crochets (= 11 times in width), work A.12c, work A.13 over middle space, work A.12c, work A.12b over the next 154 double crochets (= 11 times in width) and finish with A.12a over last double crochet. When entire A.12 and A.13 have been worked vertically, there are 54 chain spaces on each side of middle space (= 108 chain spaces in + middle space in total). Cut and fasten the yarn. Shawl measures approx. 70 cm = 27 1/2” measured along middle space.
This pattern has been corrected. Click here to see the correction/s..
Diagram A.6b corrected: 1 single crochet on row 1 removed.
Diagram
All measurements in charts are in cm.
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= Begin here - this chain stitch ring is explained in the pattern (4 chain stitches, 1 slip stitch). Continue at the arrow |
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= Begin diagram here (= first row in diagram) |
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= treble crochet in stitch |
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= double crochet around chain stitch ring/chain stitch/chain space |
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= double crochet in stitch |
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= 1 chain stitch |
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= 3 chain stitches |
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= 5 chain stitches |
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= 6 chain stitches |
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= 1 single crochet in stitch |
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= single crochet around chain space |
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= BOBLE: Work as follows around chain space below: 1 slip stitch, 4 treble crochets but wait with last yarn over and pull through on each of these treble crochets, 1 slip stitch, make a yarn over and pull through all 7 loops on hook |
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= This row has already been worked. Begin on next row (i.e. at the arrow) |
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= number shows which color the diagram/row is worked in 1 = off white, 2 = yellow, 3 = strong yellow |
Do you need help with this pattern?
Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 200-21) for measurements and calculations.
Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.
1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?
Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.
The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.
The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.
See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge
See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch
All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.
3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?
The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.
Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.
See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?
4) How do I use the yarn converter?
At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).
If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.
5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?
The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.
Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.
See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge
See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch
6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?
Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.
The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.
Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.
9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?
The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.
When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.
When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.
See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams
10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?
The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.
When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.
When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.
When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.
The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.
See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams
11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?
Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.
The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.
See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams
See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams
12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?
Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.
14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?
It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.
See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)
15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?
To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.
See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately
16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?
Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.
Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!
17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?
Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.
See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open
18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?
Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.
See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?
19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?
Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.
It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.
The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.
20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?
If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.
Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.
21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?
All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.
Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding
Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:
1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.
2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.
3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.
4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.
22) Where on the garment is the length measured?
The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.
See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing
23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?
The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.
Comments / Questions (22)
What can you do with our patterns? You can share DROPS patterns online, using the pattern original picture, materials, name and number. But you are NOT ALLOWED to reproduce the complete pattern digitally in any way. Yarn stores are welcome to use the DROPS pattern database to promote the sale of our assortment. You can print out our patterns, make as many copies as you’d like. The only thing we ask is that you don't make any changes / additions to the original printed document. And that the patterns according to the DROPS philosophy are given out to the consumers for free. Editorials that wish to publish our patterns in printed books or magazines can contact us for more information. The sale of garments based on DROPS patterns is permitted as long as they are sold as single items or per order. Further commercial use of the patterns is not permitted. It has to be clearly stated that the garment is made based on a design from DROPS DESIGN. The use of clothing labels of which DROPS DESIGN forms part is conditioned by the inclusion of the following text: “A DROPS DESIGN made by …..”. The use of DROPS photos for marketing purposes/sales is only permitted in connection with the use/sale of DROPS products. The photos may not be cut or edited and the logo should be clearly visible.
We reserve the right to withdraw the permission for use of our patterns at any time, notwithstanding the reason.
With over 30 years in knitting and crochet design, DROPS Design offers one of the most extensive collections of free patterns on the internet - translated to 17 languages. As of today we count 275 catalogs and 10332 patterns - 10288 of which are translated into English (US/in).
We work hard to bring you the best knitting and crochet have to offer, inspiration and advice as well as great quality yarns at incredible prices! Would you like to use our patterns for other than personal use? You can read what you are allowed to do in the Copyright text at the bottom of all our patterns. Happy crafting!
Nie wiem jak robić schemat A 6, jak zacząć i co ile oczek robić oczko ścisłe? Ile łuków powinno powstać w pierwszym rzędzie?
28.05.2021 - 14:43:DROPS Design answered:
Witaj Bożeno, wykonujesz 1-szy rząd schematu. Oczko ścisłe jest przerabiane w słupek, omijasz 3 kolejne słupki (a 1 raz 2, patrz schemat A.6b) i przerabiasz 1 oczko ścisłe w następny słupek. Po zakończeniu 1-szego rzędu będziesz miała 20 łuków z każdej strony łuku na środku (= w sumie 40 łuków + łuk na środku, czyli łącznie 41 łuków). Pozdrawiamy!
01.06.2021 kl. 22:25:Er staan geen foto’s, werktekening, symbolen van de steken etc. Overal staan lege hokjes, met het woord foto/symbool erin. Werkt de website alleen op een desktop misschien?
01.04.2021 - 10:07:Mitä tässä ohjeissa tarkoitta mallikerta.
13.03.2021 - 14:13:No comprendo la explicación del punto mota. ¿los puntos bajísimos se enganchan a una cadena o al arco?
09.12.2020 - 05:16:DROPS Design answered:
Hola Karen, tienes que trabajar alrededor del arco abajo. La explicación del punto mota encontreras AQUI. Buen trabajo!
09.12.2020 kl. 09:06:شكرا ... هل يترسل الباترون بعد شراء الصوف
08.12.2020 - 16:31:Bonjour, J'ai réalisé ce modèle jusqu'au diagramme A.5.J'ai bien mes 71 brides. Et là je suis bloquée !! Je ne comprends pas le démarrage du diagramme A.6a à A.6c. Je comprends qu'il faut 1 DB sur la 1ère B du rg précédent, après c'est confus. Y a t-il des ml à faire et si oui combien ? Où se fait la 1ère MS que l'on voit avant le début de A.6.b ? Il manque peut-être qq chose. Dans l'attente de votre réponse. Cordialement.
17.09.2020 - 18:40:DROPS Design answered:
Bonjour Ghislaine - 92, remplacez la 1ère double-bride par 4 ml (cf INFO CROCHET) ( au 1er rang de A.6a, vous crochetez simplement 4 ml) puis vous répétez A.6b: (1 ms dans la b suivante, 6 ml, sautez 2 ml), répétez de *à* et crochetez A.7 dans l'arceau de A.5 - crochetez ensuite l'autre côté en miroir du 1er et terminez par 1 double-bride (= A.6a). Bon crochet!
18.09.2020 kl. 08:16:Je voudrais savoir a quoi correspont les chiffres sur le cote du diagramme ex 3 faut il faire 3 fois le dessin
29.06.2020 - 10:28:DROPS Design answered:
Bonjour Mme Wagrez, chaque chiffre correspond à la couleur de la rayure - cf dernier symbole de la légende. Bon crochet!
29.06.2020 kl. 14:00:Mam problem na samym początku, po zrobieniu 18 słupków w początkowy pierścień wychodzi bardziej kształt serca niż typowego trójkąta, jak na chustę przystało. Robię coś źle? Czy później samo się to zmieni. Po 3 rzędach nadal wygląda jak serce.
04.06.2020 - 19:06:DROPS Design answered:
Witaj Magdaleno, wszystko jest ok, później się wyrówna. Powodzenia!
04.06.2020 kl. 19:28:Hoi hoi, Net als Judith kom ik echt met geen mogelijkheid op 20 boogjes, ik blijf op 18 uitkomen. Ik volg letterlijk de diagram, maar ik kom niet uit *zucht* Ik geef niet gauw op, maar ik vrees dat ik dit project echt niet af ga maken. Wat een *peep* patroon ;-) De meest moeilijke projecten haak ik zo uit mijn naalden, maar deze pfff nee drama! Erg jammer, want de shawl zelf is echt heel mooi :)
22.05.2020 - 00:05:DROPS Design answered:
Dag Natasja,
Voordat je aan A.6 begint heb je 71 stokjes aan één kant. In het eerste stokje haak je A.6a, in de volgende 70 stokjes haak je 5 herhalingen van A.6b. In A.6 b zitten 4 boogjes van 6 lossen. Als je deze 5 keer hebt herhaald zit je op 20 boogjes.
18.11.2020 kl. 23:56:I\'m starting A.4a, when I get to A.5, I\'m confused. In the first row, do I do 2 DC with a chain 5 between into the chain 3 of the previous row? Again in A.5, second row, do I just do chain 5 into the previous row\'s chain 5? In the third row, do 2 DC, with ch 5 into previous row\'s chain 5? Then, in the 4th row just chain 5 into the chain 5 of the previous row? Then, on the second and 4th row, do I do another chain 5 into the same chain 5 to do the other side past A.5?
15.04.2020 - 15:26:DROPS Design answered:
Dear Mrs Graves, on first row in A.5 you crochet 1 dc, 5 ch, 1 dc around the 3-ch-space from last row in A.3, on 2nd row you will work 5 chains over (dc,5ch,dc), and continue like this, with alternately (1dc, 5 ch, 1 dc in the ch-space from previous row) and 5 ch over (1 dc, 5 ch, 1 dc). Happy crocheting!
15.04.2020 kl. 16:53: