DROPS / 200 / 12

Summer Twinkle Sweater by DROPS Design

Knitted sweater with leaf pattern, bobbles, round yoke and ¾-length sleeves. The piece is worked in DROPS Flora, top down. Sizes S - XXXL.

DROPS Design: Pattern no fl-040
Yarn group A
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SIZES:
S - M - L - XL - XXL – XXXL

Finished measurements:
Chest measurements: 88-96-104-114-126-138 cm = 34 5/8”-37 3/4”-41”-45”-49 1/2”-54 1/4”
Full length: 52-54-56-58-60-62 cm = 20 1/2"-21 1/4"-22"-22 3/4"-23 5/8"-24 3/8"

All measurements in charts are in cm.

MATERIALS:
DROPS FLORA from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group A)
300-300-350-350-400-450 g color 17, yellow

KNITTING GAUGE:
24 stitches in width and 32 rows in height with stockinette stitch = 10 x 10 cm = 4” x 4”.

NEEDLES:
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 3 MM = US 2,5.
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 3 MM = US 2,5: length 40 cm = 16” and 80 cm = 32” for stockinette stitch.
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 2.5 MM = US 1,5.
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 2.5 MM = US 1,5: length 40 cm = 16” and 80 cm = 32” for rib.
Needle size is only a guide. If you get too many stitches on 10 cm = 4”, change to a larger needle size. If you get too few stitches on 10 cm = 4”, change to a smaller needle size

Have you knitted/crocheted this or any other of our designs? Tag your pictures in social media with #dropsdesign so we can see them!

Want to use a different yarn? Try our yarn converter!
Not sure which size you should choose? Then it might help you to know that the model in the picture is approx. 5 ft 7 in and uses size S or M. If you are making a sweater, cardigan, dress or similar garment, you will find a graphic with the measurements of the finished garment (in cm) at the bottom of the pattern.

65% Wool, 35% Alpaca
from 2.75 $ /50g
DROPS Flora uni colour DROPS Flora uni colour 2.75 $ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
Order
DROPS Flora mix DROPS Flora mix 2.85 $ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
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DROPS Needles & Hooks
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 16.50$. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
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EXPLANATIONS FOR THE PATTERN:

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PATTERN:
See diagrams A.1 to A.4. Choose diagram for your size (applies to A.2 and A.3)

INCREASE TIP-1 (evenly spaced):
To work out how to increase evenly, count the total number of stitches on the needle (e.g. 117 stitches) and divide by the number of increases to be made (e.g. 39) = 3.
In this example, increase by making 1 yarn over after each 3rd stitch. On the next round knit the yarn overs twisted to avoid holes

INCREASE TIP-2 (for sides of body and mid under sleeves):
Increase on each side of the rib as described below:
Work as far as A.3, make 1 yarn over, work A.3 (= 16-16-16-22-22-22 stitches - marker thread sits in middle of these 16-16-16-22-22-22 stitches), make 1 yarn over (= 2 stitches increased). On the next round knit the yarn overs twisted to avoid holes. Then work the new stitches in stockinette stitch.

DECREASE TIP (for sides of body and mid under sleeves):
Decrease on each side of A.3 as described below:
Work until there are 2 stitches left before A.3, knit 2 together, work A.3 (= 16-16-16-22-22-22 stitches - marker thread sits in middle of these 16-16-16-22-22-22 stitches), slip 1 stitch as if to knit, knit 1 and pass the slipped stitch over the knitted stitch (= 2 stitches decreased).

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START THE PIECE HERE:

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SWEATER - SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE:
Neck and yoke are worked in the round with circular needle, top down. The yoke is divided for body and sleeves. The body is continued in the round with circular needle. The sleeves are worked in the round with short circular needle/double pointed needles, top down.

NECK:
Cast on 117-120-123-129-132-138 stitches with short circular needle size 2.5 mm = US 1,5 and Flora. Knit 1 round then work rib in the round (= knit 1, purl 2) for 3-3-3-4-4-4 cm = 1 1/8”-1 1/8”-1 1/8”-1 1/2”-1 1/2”-1 1/2”. When the rib is finished knit 1 round where you increase 39-40-41-43-44-46 stitches evenly spaced – read INCREASE TIP-1 = 156-160-164-172-176-184 stitches. Then work the yoke as described below.

YOKE:
Change to circular needle size 3 mm = US 2,5 and work stockinette stitch in the round. REMEMBER THE KNITTING GAUGE!
When the piece measures 4-5-6-6-7-7 cm = 1 1/2”-2”-2 3/8”-2 3/8”-2 3/4”-2 3/4” from the cast-on edge increase 12-32-40-44-52-56 stitches evenly spaced = 168-192-204-216-228-240 stitches.
When the piece measures 5-6-7-8-9-9 cm = 2”-2 3/8”-2 3/4”-3 1/8”-3 1/2” from the cast-on edge start the leaf pattern; i.e. work A.1 in the round (= 14-16-17-18-19-20 repeats of 12 stitches). Continue this pattern.
When A.1 has been completed there are 308-352-374-396-418-440 stitches on the needle.
Work A.2 in the round. AT THE SAME TIME on the round marked with an arrow in A.2 increase 16-8-10-28-34-40 stitches evenly spaced = 324-360-384-424-452-480 stitches on needle.
When A.2 has been completed, continue with stockinette stitch until the piece measures 21-23-25-27-29-31 cm = 8 1/4”-9”-9 3/4”-10 5/8”-11 3/8”-12 1/4” from the cast-on edge. Now divide the yoke for body and sleeves on the next round as follows: Work 48-53-56-62-68-74 stitches in stockinette stitch (= ½ back piece), place the next 65-73-79-87-89-91 stitches on 1 thread for sleeve, cast on 8-8-12-12-14-16 new stitches on needle (= in side under sleeve), work 97-107-113-125-137-149 stitches in stockinette stitch (= front piece), place the next 65-73-79-87-89-91 stitches on 1 thread for sleeve, cast on 8-8-12-12-14-16 new stitches on needle (= in side under sleeve) and work the remaining 49-54-57-63-69-75 stitches in stockinette stitch (= ½ back piece). Cut the strand. Then finish body and sleeves separately. THE PIECE IS NOW MEASURED FROM HERE!

BODY:
= 210-230-250-274-302-330 stitches. Insert 1 marker thread on each side of the body in the middle of the 8-8-12-12-14-16 stitches cast on under each sleeve. The threads mark sides of body. Start the round by one of the marker threads and work stockinette stitch in the round with A.3 over the middle 16-16-16-22-22-22 stitches on each side of the body (threads sit in the middle of each A.3). Continue this pattern.
When the piece measures 2 cm from the division decrease 1 stitch on each side of A.3 on each side – read DECREASE TIP (= 4 stitches decreased). Decrease like this every 1½ cm = 1/2” a total of 5 times on each side = 190-210-230-254-282-310 stitches.
When the piece measures 13 cm = 5 1/8” from the division increase 1 stitch on each side of A.3 on each side – read INCREASE TIP-2 (= 4 stitches increased). Increase like this every 2½ cm = 1 1/4” a total of 5 times on each side = 210-230-250-274-302-330 stitches.
Continue working until the piece measures 25 cm = 9 3/4” from the division in all sizes (or to desired length; there is 3 cm = 1 1/8” left to finished length).
On the next round increase as follows: Work A.3 as before over the first 8-8-8-11-11-11 stitches on the round, work 89-99-109-115-129-143 stitches in stockinette stitch and increase at the same time 27-26-31-34-35-39 stitches evenly spaced over these 89-99-109-115-129-143 stitches, continue A.3 over the next 16-16-16-22-22-22 stitches as before, work 89-99-109-115-129-143 stitches in stockinette stitch and increase at the same time 27-26-31-34-35-39 stitches evenly spaced over these 89-99-109-115-129-143 stitches, continue A.3 over the remaining 8-8-8-11-11-11 stitches as before = 264-282-312-342-372-408 stitches. This increase is to prevent the rib being tight.
Change to circular needle size 2.5 mm = US 1,5 and work rib in the round (= knit 1/ purl 2) for 3 cm = 1 1/8” and make sure the rib fits neatly over A.3 on each side. Change to circular needle size 3 mm = US 2,5 and loosely bind off with knit over knit and purl over purl (use a larger needle size to avoid the bind-off edge being tight). The sweater measures approx. 52-54-56-58-60-62 cm = 20 1/2"-21 1/4"-22"-22 3/4"-23 5/8"-24 3/8" from the shoulder down.

SLEEVE:
Place the 65-73-79-87-89-91 stitches from the thread on the one side of the piece on short circular needle/double pointed needles size 3 mm = US 2,5 and knit up 1 stitch in each of the 8-8-12-12-14-16 stitches cast on under the sleeve = 73-81-91-99-103-107 stitches. Insert 1 marker thread in the middle of the 8-8-12-12-14-16 new stitches. The marker thread marks mid under sleeve and the start of the round.
Work A.3 mid under sleeve (marker thread sits in middle of A.3) and the remaining stitches in stockinette stitch.
When the piece measures 2-2-1-1-1-1 cm = 3/4”-3/4”-3/8”-3/8”-3/8”-3/8” from the division decrease 1 stitch on each side of A.3 – read DECREASE TIP (= 2 stitches decreased). Decrease like this every 1½-1-1-1-1-1 cm = 1/2”-3/8”-3/8”-3/8”-3/8”-3/8” a total of 6-9-13-12-12-13 times = 61-63-65-75-79-81 stitches.
When the piece measures 13-13-15-14-14-15 cm from the division increase 1 stitch on each side of A.3 – read INCREASE TIP-2 (= 2 stitches increased). Increase like this every 1½-1½-1-1-1-1 cm a total of 8-7-6-7-5-4 times = 77-77-77-89-89-89 stitches.
Continue working until the sleeve measures 25-24-22-22-20-19 cm = 5 1/8”-5 1/8”-6”-5 1/2”-5 1/2”-6” from the division (shorter measurements in larger sizes due to wider neck and longer yoke). The increases are now finished and the lace pattern at bottom of sleeves starts here. Work the next round as follows: Continue with A.3 as before over the first 8-8-8-11-11-11 stitches, work 0-0-0-3-3-3 stitches in stockinette stitch, A.4 over the next 60 stitches (= 5 repeats of 12 stitches in all sizes), work 1-1-1-4-4-4 stitches in stockinette stitch and finish with A.3 over the remaining 8-8-8-11-11-11 stitches as before.
When A.4 has been completed in height, work 1 round with stockinette stitch and A.3 as before where you increase 19-19-19-25-25-25 stitches evenly spaced over the 61-61-61-67-67-67 stitches which are not rib = 96-96-96-114-114-114 stitches. Change to short circular needle/double pointed needles size 2.5 mm = US 1,5 and work rib in the round (= knit 1, purl 2 – the rib fits neatly over A.3 mid under sleeve).
When the rib measures 2 cm = 3/4” increase every other purl 2 to purl 3 = 112-112-112-133-133-133 stitches. When the rib measures 4 cm = 1 1/2” increase the remaining purl 2 to purl 3 = 128-128-128-152-152-152 stitches. Continue working until the sleeve measures approx. 34-33-31-31-29-28 cm = 13 3/8”-13”-12 1/4”-12 1/4”-11 3/8”-11” from the division (rib measures approx. 6 cm = 2 3/8”). Change to short circular needle size 3 mm = US 2,5 and loosely bind off with knit over knit and purl over purl. Work the other sleeve in the same way.

This pattern has been corrected. .

Updated online: 23.10.2019
New text under chart text to the "Bobble".

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

= knit
= purl
= between 2 stitches make 1 yarn over; on the next round knit or purl the yarn over (as shown in diagram) to leave a hole
= between 2 stitches make 1 yarn over; on the next round purl the yarn over twisted to avoid a hole
= knit 2 together
= slip 1 stitch as if to knit, knit 1 and pass the slipped stitch over the knitted stitch
= slip 1 stitch as if to knit, knit 2 together and pass the slipped stitch over the knitted together stitches
= place 1 stitch on cable needle behind the piece, knit 1, purl 1 from the cable needle
= place 1 stitch on cable needle in front of the piece, purl 1, knit 1 from the cable needle
= Bobble: Work in the same stitch as follows: Knit 1, make 1 yarn over, knit 1, make 1 yarn over, knit 1 = 5 stitches. Work 4 rows stockinette stitch over these 5 stitches (first row = wrong side). Then, working from the right side, pass the 5th stitch over the first stitch, the 4th stitch over the first stitch, the 3rd stitch over the first stitch and finally the 2nd stitch over the first stitch (= 1 stitch left).
= increase round




Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 200-12) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

We have also step-by-step guides for different techniques which you'll find here.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (17)

Mello 28.08.2019 - 15:38:

Hi, I am currently knitting this beautiful jumper, however do you have the cables in the pattern the wrong way round?

DROPS Design 28.08.2019 kl. 16:43:

Dear Mello, not sure what you are meaning here, the small cables over 2 stitches (= 8th and 9th symbols) are worked as explained under diagram key. Should this help you? Happy knitting!

Elena 21.07.2019 - 23:37:

Hei. Har dere oppskrifter på russisk?

DROPS Design 22.07.2019 kl. 07:35:

Hei Elena, Dessverre har vi ikke fått oversatt oppskriftene til russisk ennå. Vennlig hilsen, DROPS-teamet.

Karin 11.07.2019 - 20:28:

Jag undrar om beskrivningarna för de vridna maskorna på rad 25, 27, 29 har blivit omkastade. Som de är ritade borde det var tvärt om (räta maskan på vänstersidan ska luta åt höger och vice versa), och det borde även se bättre ut (som en sammanhängande gren), men beskrivningen ger ju motsatt effekt.

Hochet Valérie 29.04.2019 - 22:40:

Bonjour à toute l'équipe Je réalise la première manche en taille M, et j'en suis après les 7 x augmentations, j'ai doc bien 77 mailles. Seulement je ne comprends pas la suite, car je ne retrouve ^pas le bon nombre de mailles, soit 77. d'après vos explications, je dois faire : 4 m de A3, 60 m de A4 (15m x 5 dessins), 1m, 4m de A3 = 4 +60+1+4= 69 m au lieu de 77 m Pouvez vous m'aider s'il vous plait. Cordialement.

DROPS Design 30.04.2019 kl. 10:02:

Bonjour Mme Hochet, on tricote A.3 au-dessus des 8 premières mailles et des 8 dernières mailles, A.3 = 16 m du milieu sous la manche, vous tricotez ainsi les 16 m de A.3 comme avant, puis 5 x A.4 (= 60 m ) et 1 m jersey = 8 (= les 8 dernières m de A.3 = début du tour) + 60 + 1 + 8 (= les 8 premières m de A.3 = fin du tour) = 77 m. Bon tricot!

Silvana 26.04.2019 - 16:34:

Grazie e eccomi con un nuovo quesito. Sto per iniziare il giro che precede le noccioline. (30mo giro) dal diagramma sembra che la costina di una maglia dritta di sposti. Ma nella foto continua dritta sino alla nocciolina finale. Quindi....? Grazie mille

DROPS Design 26.04.2019 kl. 18:02:

Buongiorno Silvana. Nel grafico sembra spostata perchè nel giro precedente ci sono due maglie gettate al centro del diagramma, quindi 2 maglie in più. L'ultima m del giro, coincide con l'ultima maglia del giro precedente, quindi la costina continua dritta. Buon lavoro!

Silvana 25.04.2019 - 19:22:

Buonasera, ho difficoltà a capire il diagramma A.1, quando devo iniziare il nono giro. Dopo il marcapunto di inizio giro, devo fare un gettato o cominciare con una diminuzione doppia? Grazie attendo fiduciosa.....

DROPS Design 25.04.2019 kl. 20:50:

Buongiorno Silvana. Il giro nove inizia con le ultime 2 maglie del giro precedente. Quindi, quando rimangono 2 m alla fine del giro 8, lavora 1 m gettata, l’accavallata doppia (ultime 2 m del giro 8 + prima maglia del giro 9) , 1 m gettata e così via come indicato nel diagramma. Buon lavoro!

Elin Törnblom 21.03.2019 - 13:25:

Hej, Mönster A2 och andra syns inte. Det är bara små vita fyrkanter. Kan ni ordna så att dessa blir synliga igen?

DROPS Design 21.03.2019 kl. 13:47:

Hei Elin. Alle symboler i diagrammene og symbolforklaringen er fult synlig fra vår side. Har du problemer med å se dem uansett hvaslags enhet du bruker (mobil, pc, nettbrett)? hilsen DROPS

Évelyne 17.03.2019 - 16:01:

Bonjour, je pense qu'il y a une erreur sur le rang 9 de la grille. Comment travailler sur un groupe de 3 mailles alors qu'il n'y a que 2 mailles endroit au rang 8 précédent ? Cela decale le motif. J'ai réglé le problème en décalant mon anneau marqueur de début de rang d'une maille vers la droite. Merci pour votre attention.

DROPS Design 18.03.2019 kl. 10:39:

Bonjour Évelyne, le diagramme est juste, au début du 9ème tour, on va tricoter les 2 dernières mailles du tour précédent avec la 1ère maille du début du tour (= le jeté et la diminution = dernières mailles du dernier A.1), et on va continuer ainsi, à la fin de chaque A.1, on va tricoter les 2 dernières mailles avec la 1ère m du A.1 suivant. Bon tricot!

Nicole 12.03.2019 - 22:40:

Ich bin auch gerade bei der 9. Reihe von A1 und möchte sicher gehen, daß ich das richtig verstanden habe: am Ende von Reihe 8 stricke ich nur 1 M.re (statt 3 lt. Muster), einen Umschlag, die zwei verbliebenen zusammen und ziehe die 1. M. von Rd. 9 darüber. Richtig? Verfahre ich immer so, wenn die nächste Runde lt. Muster versetzt beginnt?

DROPS Design 13.03.2019 kl. 08:17:

Liebe Nicole, Reihe 9 im diagram beginnt mit den 2 letzen Maschen vom Reihe 8: A.1 so wiederholen (die 2 letzten Maschen im ersten A.1 werden zs mit der 1. Masche im nächsten A.1 gestrickt). Dann werden diese 2 ersten Maschen (= Umschlag, Abnahme) wieder als die 2 letzten Maschen der Runde gestrickt (es sind aber 2 Maschen mehr bei Reihe 10 wegen den 2 Umschlägen in der Mitte = A.1 = 14 M). Viel Spaß beim stricken!

Illenseer Lilli 27.02.2019 - 19:28:

Habe die drobst 200-12 pullover angefangen zu stricker aber ich habe ein problem in der reihe 9 bei A.1,in der rechten seite geht es nich aus mit maschen und dann auch verschibt es sich die mitte vom blatt. ich bitte sie nachsuprühfen. mfg

DROPS Design 05.03.2019 kl. 12:21:

Liebe Lilli, bei den 9. Reihe in A.1 stricken Sie im 1. Rapport die letzten 2 Maschen der vorrigen Runde zusammen mit der ersten Maschen 1. Rapport, und so weiter stricken, dh die 2 letzten Maschen vom A.1 zusammen mit der 1. Masche nächstes Rapport stricken. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

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