DROPS / 201 / 9

Wistful by DROPS Design

Jacket with leaf pattern and stripes, worked in 2 strands DROPS Air or 2 strands DROPS Brushed Alpaca Silk. The piece is worked top down with ¾-length sleeves. Sizes S - XXXL.

DROPS Design: Pattern no ai-194
Yarn group C + C or E
-------------------------------------------------------

SIZES:
S - M - L - XL - XXL – XXXL

Finished measurements:
Chest measurements: 110-114-122-130-142-150 cm = 43 3/8”-45”-48”-51 1/4”-55 3/4”-59”
Full length: 56-58-60-62-64-66 cm = 22"-22 3/4"-23 5/8"-24 3/8"-25 1/4"-26"

All measurements in charts are in cm.

MATERIALS:
DROPS AIR from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group C)
250-250-300-300-350-350 g color 15, purple haze
200-250-250-250-300-300 g color 01, off white

Or use:
DROPS BRUSHED ALPACA SILK from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group C)
125-150-150-175-175-200 g color 17, light lavender
100-125-125-150-150-175 g color 01, off white

KNITTING GAUGE:
10 stitches in width and 14 rows in height with stockinette stitch and 2 strands = 10 x 10 cm = 4” x 4”.

NEEDLES:
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 9 MM = US 13.
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 9 MM = US 13: length 80 cm = 32” for stockinette stitch.
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 8 MM = US 11.
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 8 MM = US 11: length 80 cm = 32” for rib.
Needle size is only a guide. If you get too many stitches on 10 cm = 4”, change to a larger needle size. If you get too few stitches on 10 cm = 4”, change to a smaller needle size.

DROPS MOTHER OF PEARL BUTTONS, Round (purple) NO 609: 5-5-6-6-6-6 items.

Have you knitted/crocheted this or any other of our designs? Tag your pictures in social media with #dropsdesign so we can see them!

Want to use a different yarn? Try our yarn converter!
Not sure which size you should choose? Then it might help you to know that the model in the picture is approx. 5 ft 7 in and uses size S or M. If you are making a sweater, cardigan, dress or similar garment, you will find a graphic with the measurements of the finished garment (in cm) at the bottom of the pattern.

65% Alpaca, 28% Polyamide, 7% Wool
from 6.60 $ /50g
DROPS Air mix DROPS Air mix 6.60 $ /50g
Purple Sheep Yarns
Order
DROPS Air uni colour DROPS Air uni colour 6.60 $ /50g
Purple Sheep Yarns
Order
DROPS Needles & Hooks
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 59.40$. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
-------------------------------------------------------

EXPLANATIONS FOR THE PATTERN:

-------------------------------------------------------

RIDGE/GARTER STITCH (worked back and forth):
Knit all rows.
1 ridge in height = Knit 2 rows

INCREASE TIP (evenly spaced):
To work out how to increase evenly, count the total number of stitches on needle (e.g. 57 stitches), minus the bands (e.g. 8 stitches) and divide the remaining 49 stitches with number of increases to be made (e.g. 12) = 4.1. In this example, increase by making 1 yarn over after approx. each 4th stitch - do not increase on bands. On the next row work yarn overs twisted to avoid holes.

PATTERN:
See diagrams A.1 to A.5. Choose diagram for your size (applies to A.1 to A.3). Diagrams show all the rows in the pattern seen from the right side.

STRIPES:
The whole garment is worked in 2 strands Air or 2 strands Brushed Alpaca Silk. On the yoke you use 2 strands off-white until the piece measures approx. 23-23-23-23-28-28 cm = 9”-9”-9”-9”-11”-11” from the cast-on edge – finish after a whole/half leaf in height. Then on the body you use 1 strand off-white + 1 strand purple haze/light lavender until the piece measures approx. 34-34-34-34-39-39 cm = 13 3/8”-13 3/8”-13 3/8”-13 3/8”-15 1/4”-15 1/4” from the cast-on edge – finish after a whole/half leaf in height. Then work with 2 strands purple haze/light lavender to finished length.
The sleeves are worked with 1 strand off-white + 1 strand purple haze/light lavender until this stripe measures approx. 15-14-14-14-12-12 cm = 6”-5 1/2”-5 1/2”-5 1/2”-4 3/4”-4 3/4”. Then work with 2 strands purple haze/light lavender to finished length.

RAGLAN:
All increases are worked from the right side!
Increase to raglan in each transition between body and sleeves as follows: Start just before the stitch with marker, make 1 yarn over, knit stitch with marker from right side and purl it from wrong side (= raglan-stitch), 1 yarn over (= 2 stitches increased at marker and a total of 8 stitches increased on row). On next row knit the yarn overs towards the front/back pieces from the wrong side and purl the yarn overs towards the sleeves from the wrong side (there will be holes).

BUTTONHOLES:
Work buttonholes on right band (when garment is worn). Work from the right side when there are 3 stitches left on row as follows: 1 yarn over, knit 2 together and knit 1. On the next row (wrong side) knit the yarn over to leave a hole.
The first buttonhole is worked when the neck measures approx. 1½-2 cm = 1/2”-3/4”. Then the next 4-4-5-5-5-5 buttonholes are worked with approx. 9-9-8-8-9-9 cm = 3 1/2”-3 1/2”-3 1/8”-3 1/8”-3 1/2”-3 1/2” between each one.

------------------------------------------------------

START THE PIECE HERE:

-------------------------------------------------------

JACKET - SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE:
Neck and yoke are worked back and forth with circular needle from mid front, top down. The yoke is divided for body and sleeves. The body is continued back and forth with circular needle from mid front, top down. Sleeves are worked in the round with double pointed needles, top down.

NECK:
Cast on 57-57-61-61-65-65 stitches (including 4 band stitches on each side towards mid front) with circular needle size 8 mm = US 11 and 2 strands off-white Air or 2 strands off-white Brushed Alpaca Silk. Purl 1 row from the wrong side.
The next row is worked as follows from the right side: 4 band stitches in GARTER STITCH – read description above, * knit 1, purl 1 *, work from *-* until there are 5 stitches left on row, knit 1 and finish with 4 band stitches in garter stitch. Continue this rib for 4 cm = 1 1/2” – remember BUTTONHOLES on right band – read description above. Purl 1 row from the right side where you increase 12-12-8-8-8-8 stitches evenly spaced – read INCREASE TIP = 69-69-69-69-73-73 stitches. Then work yoke as described below.

YOKE:
Change to circular needle size 9 mm = US 13. Insert 4 markers in the piece as described below (without working the stitches). The markers will be used when increasing to raglan.
Count 15-15-15-15-16-16 stitches (= front piece), insert first marker in the next stitch, count 6 stitches (= sleeve), insert 2nd marker in next stitch, count 23-23-23-23-25-25 stitches (= back piece), insert 3rd marker in next stitch, count 6 stitches (= sleeve) and insert 4th marker in next stitch. There are 15-15-15-15-16-16 stitches left after last marker (front piece).
The next row is worked as follows from the right side: 4 band stitches in garter stitch, work A.1A (= 11-11-11-11-12-12 stitches), increase to RAGLAN on each side of stitch with marker (raglan-stitch) – read description above, work stockinette stitch with right side out over the stitches on sleeve and as far as the next raglan-stitch, increase to raglan on each side of raglan-stitch, work A.1B (= 11-11-11-11-12-12 stitches), work 1 stitch stockinette stitch with wrong side out, A.1A (= 11-11-11-11-12-12 stitches), increase on each side of raglan-stitch, work stockinette stitch with right side out over the sleeve as far as the next raglan-stitch, increase on each side of the raglan-stitch, work A.1B (= 11-11-11-11-12-12 stitches) and finish with 4 band stitches in garter stitch towards mid front.
Continue this pattern and increase to raglan every 2nd row (i.e. each row from right side) a total of 9-9-12-12-13-13 times (including the first increase described in text) – the increased stitches on front and back pieces are worked into the pattern as you go as shown in A.1. On the sleeves the increased stitches are worked in stockinette stitch with right side out. REMEMBER THE KNITTING GAUGE and read STRIPES!
When the increases to raglan are finished there are 161-161-185-185-205-205 stitches on the needle. Continue with pattern as shown in diagram, but to avoid the lace pattern on each side of the raglan-line being broken when the increases are finished, work A.4 at markers 1 and 3 and A.5 at markers 2 and 4 (stitch with markers should match mid-stitches in A.4/A.5).
Work until the last row in A.1 remains. Now divide the yoke for body and sleeves as follows: Work 29-29-32-32-36-36 stitches as before (= front piece), place the next 26-26-32-32-34-34 stitches on 1 thread for sleeve, cast on 4-6-4-8-6-10 new stitches on the needle (= in side under sleeve), work 51-51-57-57-65-65 stitches as before (= back piece), place the next 26-26-32-32-34-34 stitches on 1 thread for sleeve, cast on 4-6-4-8-6-10 new stitches on the needle (= in side under sleeve) and work the remaining 29-29-32-32-36-36 stitches as before (= front piece). The yoke measures approx. 20-20-23-23-26-26 cm = 8”-8”-9”-9”-11 3/8”-11 3/8” from the cast-on edge mid front. Body and sleeves are finished separately. THE PIECE IS NOW MEASURED FROM HERE!

BODY:
= 117-121-129-137-149-157 stitches. Insert 1 marker thread 31-32-34-36-39-41 stitches in from each side (= 55-57-61-65-71-75 stitches between marker threads on back piece). The marker threads mark the sides of the body.
First row worked as follows from the right side (with 1 strand off-white + 1 strand purple haze/light lavender):
SIZES S, M, L and XL: Work 4 band stitches in garter stitch, A.2A (= 24 stitches), 6-8-12-16 stitches in stockinette stitch with wrong side out (marker thread sits in middle of these stitches), work A.2B (= 24 stitches), 1 stitch in stockinette stitch with wrong side out, work A.2A (= 24 stitches), 6-8-12-16 stitches stockinette stitch with wrong side out (marker thread sits in middle of these stitches) work A.2B (= 24 stitches) and finish with 4 band stitches in garter stitch towards mid front. Continue this pattern – remember STRIPES. When A.2 has been worked a total of 2 times in height, work A.3A over A.2A and A.3B over A.2B (the other stitches are continued as before). When A.3 has been worked 1 time in height, work stockinette stitch with wrong side out and 4 band stitches in garter stitch on each side until the piece measures 28-30-29-31 cm = 11”-11 3/4”-11 3/8”-12 1/4” from the division (or to desired length; there is 4 cm = 1 1/2” left to finished length). Then work rib-body as described below.

SIZES XXL and XXXL: Work 4 band stitches in garter stitch, 1-1 stitch in stockinette stitch with wrong side out, work A.2 (= 29 stitches), 11-15 stitches in stockinette stitch with wrong side out (marker thread sits in middle of these stitches with 6-8 purled stitches towards back piece and 5-7 purled stitches towards front piece), work A.2 (= 29 stitches), 1 stitch in stockinette stitch with wrong side out, A.2 (= 29 stitches), 11-15 stitches in stockinette stitch with wrong side out (marker thread sits in middle of these stitches), work A.2 (= 29 stitches), 1-1 stitch in stockinette stitch with wrong side out and finish with 4 band stitches in garter stitch towards mid front. Continue this pattern – remember STRIPES. When A.2 has been worked 1 time in height, work A.3 over A.2 (the other stitches are continued as before). When A.3 has been worked 1 time in height work stockinette stitch with wrong side out and 4 band stitches in garter stitch on each side until the piece measures 30-32 cm = 11 3/4”-12 1/2” from the division (or to desired length; there is 4 cm = 1 1/2” left to finished length). Then work rib-body as described below.

RIB-BODY:
= 117-121-129-137-149-157 stitches. Knit 1 row from the right side over all stitches. Change to circular needle size 8 mm = US 11. The next row is worked as follows from the wrong side: 4 band stitches in garter stitch, * purl 1, knit 1 *, work from *-* until there are 5 stitches left on row, purl 1 and finish with 4 band stitches in garter stitch. Continue this rib for 4 cm = 1 1/2”. Loosely bind off with garter stitch over garter stitch, knit over knit and purl over purl. The jacket measures approx. 56-58-60-62-64-66 cm = 22"-22 3/4"-23 5/8"-24 3/8"-25 1/4"-26" from the shoulder down.

SLEEVE:
Place the 26-26-32-32-34-34 stitches from the thread on the one side of the piece on double pointed needles size 9 mm = US 13 and knit up 1 stitch in each of the 4-6-4-8-6-10 stitches cast on under the sleeve, with 1 strand off-white and 1 strand purple haze/light lavender (= 2 strands) = 30-32-36-40-40-44 stitches. Work stockinette stitch in the round with right side out. When the stripe with off white + purple haze/light lavender measures 15-14-14-14-12-12 cm = 6”-5 1/2”-5 1/2”-5 1/2”-4 3/4”-4 3/4”, change to 2 strands purple haze/light lavender, Continue with stockinette stitch in the round until the piece measures 25-26-23-24-21-22 cm = 9 3/4”-10 1/4”-9”-9 1/2”-8 1/4”-8 3/4” from the division (or to desired length; there is 4 cm = 1 1/2” left to finished length. NOTE: Shorter measurements in larger sizes due to wider neck and longer yoke). Knit 1 round. Change to double pointed needles size 8 mm = US 11 and work rib in the round (= knit 1 / purl 1) for 4 cm = 1 1/2”. Loosely bind off with knit over knit and purl over purl. The sleeve measures approx. 29-30-27-28-25-26 cm = 11 3/8”-11 3/4”-10 5/8”-11”-9 3/4”-10 1/4” from the division. Work the other sleeve in the same way.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew buttons onto left band.

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

= knit from right side, purl from wrong side
= purl from right side, knit from wrong side
= between 2 stitches make 1 yarn over; on the next row (wrong side) purl the yarn over to leave a hole
= between 2 stitches make 1 yarn over; on the next row (wrong side) knit the yarn twisted over to avoid a hole
= knit 2 together
= slip 1 stitch as if to knit, knit 1 and pass the slipped stitch over the knitted stitch
= slip 1 stitch as if to knit, knit 2 together and pass the slipped stitch over the knitted together stitches
= purl 2 together
= yoke divided for body and sleeves on this row




Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 201-9) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

to top

2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

to top

3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

to top

4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

to top

5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

to top

6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

to top

7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

to top

8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

to top

9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

to top

10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

to top

11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

to top

12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

to top

13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

to top

14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

to top

15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

to top

16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

to top

17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

to top

18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

to top

19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

to top

20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

to top

21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

to top

22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

to top

23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

to top

Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (14)

Kathi 12.10.2020 - 05:54:

Auf den Fotos sind die Ärmel glatt rechts gestrickt. In der Anleitung schreiben Sie glatt links. Lese ich das nicht richtig? Wie sieht denn der Rücken aus?

DROPS Design 12.10.2020 kl. 08:55:

Liebe Kathi, die Ärmel werden glatt rechts gestrickt (Anleitung wird angepasst,danke fûr den Hinweis) - Rückenteil wird mt A.1B, 1 M glatt links und A.1A gestrickt. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

Marina 16.04.2020 - 02:40:

Hello! I don't understand, neck is finished: "purl 1 row from the right side where you increase stitches ...." And Yoke starts from the right side, after we insert all markers. Where is the row from the wrong side between them?

DROPS Design 16.04.2020 kl. 07:16:

Hi Marina, The instructions should be 'purl 1 row from the wrong side....'. Apologies and happy knitting!

Anne 31.10.2019 - 19:36:

Bonjour, Je fais le gilet en taille XL. Après les augmentations du dernier rang d'encolure , il y a 69 mailles. Problème : la mise en place des marqueurs (15 +6+23+6+15) donne un total de 65 mailles. Il faut répartir différemment ... mais comment ?

DROPS Design 04.11.2019 kl. 14:20:

Bonjour Anne, les marqueurs doivent chacun être placés dans une maille, vous aurez ainsi: 15 + 1 + 6+ 1 + 23 +1 + +6 + 1 +15 = 69 mailles. Bon tricot!

Maike 03.03.2019 - 09:11:

Das Diagramm für Grösse L-XL scheint ab Reihe 12 nicht zu stimmen. Nach der gestrickten Reihe 11 stimmt es, ab 12 nicht mehr...

DROPS Design 04.03.2019 kl. 09:57:

Liebe Maike, bei der 11. Reihe in A.1B/A.1A nehmen Sie 2 Maschen (1 für Raglan + 1 im Diagram) = dann haben Sie 2 Maschen mehr bei der 12. Reihe. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

Nashwa Sakr 21.02.2019 - 10:40:

Ok, thanks alot for your help, one last thing,on row 16 of diagram A1.A, it's shown as k6,p6,k5,p3,k4, shouldn't it be k6, p7, k4, p3, k4 instead ? because after i worked as shown i felt that the leaf pattern was broken

DROPS Design 21.02.2019 kl. 11:20:

Dear Mrs Sakr, it looks like you are right, our design team will check diagram, thank you. Happy knitting!

Nashwa Sakr 20.02.2019 - 18:28:

Ok so this means that i will replace last 2 sts of A1.A with the first 2 sts of A.4, and the first 2 sts of A1.B with the last 2 sts of A.5? and if this is the case how will i do it on row 21 for size s/m, as the last 2 sts of A1.A is k1,p1

DROPS Design 21.02.2019 kl. 09:49:

Dear Mrs Sakr, the first 2 sts in A.1 will be worked as the first 2 sts of A.4 = instead of working K1, P1, work P2 tog, YO. Happy knitting!

Nashwa Sakr 20.02.2019 - 16:16:

For example, i am starting to work row 19 of diagram A1.A size s/m, so i will work (4 garter sts, 3 purl sts, p2tog, yo, k1, yo, p2tog, p2, yo, sl,k,psso,k5, k2tog, yo,p6) so these will be 29 sts of the left front, now i should work diagram A.4 which requires 5 sts but i can't find these 5 sts in my actual work as the next st to be worked after working the 29 sts of the left front is the raglan st, so how can i make it?

DROPS Design 20.02.2019 kl. 16:30:

Dear Mrs Sakr, instead of the P6 at the end of A.1A work P4 and work the first 2 sts in A.4 (= P2 tog, YO), then work the 3rd stitch in A.4 (= K1 = stitch with marker), and work the last 2 sts in A.4 over sleeve. Same on each raglan. Happy knitting!

Nashwa Sakr 20.02.2019 - 14:24:

But if i did so and started 3 sts before the raglan st, i will work these 3 sts from the left front piece? which will make the remaining number of sts not equal to the 25 sts in the A1.A diagram

DROPS Design 20.02.2019 kl. 16:23:

Dear Mrs Sakr, oops you start 2 sts before the stitch with marker (= the raglan stitch) and work the first 2 sts in A.1A as shown in the first 2 sts in A.4 and work the last 2 sts in A.1B as shown in the first 2 sts in A.5 (2 sts from A.4/A.5 are worked on the sleeves and 2 sts are worked on front/back pieces). Happy knitting!

Nashwa Sakr 20.02.2019 - 12:54:

I am working on this pattern size medium, and i am stuck at the part after the raglan increases has been finished, i finished the 9 times raglan increases, and now i am working on row 19 of diagram A1.A, and i have 25 sts for the right front, so how i will insert diagram A.4 which requires 5 sts to be worked, i don't find these sts, i only have 1 raglan st, then the right shoulder sts thank you :)

DROPS Design 20.02.2019 kl. 14:06:

Dear Mrs Sakr, when raglan increases are done, you continue as before and work A.4/A.5 over the raglan sts (to continue lace rows as before on each side of raglan). Start 3 sts before the raglan stitch and work A.4/A.5: the middle stitch in diagram should be the raglan stitch. Happy knitting!

Debbie Hayward 25.01.2019 - 18:07:

Love it! Can't wait to make it.... 'Lavender Parfait'...

Post a comment to pattern DROPS 201-9

We would love to hear what you have to say about this pattern!

If you want to leave a question, please make sure you select the correct category in the form below, to speed up the answering process. Required fields are marked *.