Sweet Topaz by DROPS Design

Knitted sweater with leaf pattern in DROPS Alpaca and DROPS Kid-Silk. Size: S - XXXL

DROPS 201-6
DROPS design: Pattern z-847
Yarn group A + A or C
----------------------------------------------------------

SIZE:
S - M - L - XL - XXL – XXXL

Finished measurements:
Chest measurements: 88-96-104-114-126-138 cm = 34 5/8”-37 3/4”-41”-45”-49 1/2”-54 1/4”
Full length: 62-64-66-68-70-72 cm = 24 3/8"-25 1/4"-26"-26 3/4"-27 1/2"-28 3/8”

All measurements in charts are in cm.

MATERIALS:
DROPS ALPACA from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group A)
250-300-300-350-350-400 g color 4010, pearl grey
And use:
DROPS KID-SILK from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group A)
100-125-125-150-150-175 g color 09, pearl grey

KNITTING GAUGE:
17 stitches in width and 22 rows vertically in stockinette stitch and 1 strand of each quality = 10 x 10 cm = 4” x 4”.

NEEDLES:
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 5 mm = US 8
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 5 mm = US 8, length 40 and 60 or 80 cm = 16” and 24” or 32” for stockinette stitch.
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 5 mm = US 8 – for rib
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 4 mm = US 6: length 40 and 80 cm = 16” and 32” for rib.
Needle size is only a suggestion! If you have too many stitches on 10 cm = 4” switch to larger needles. If you have too few stitches on 10 cm = 4” switch to smaller needles.

-------------------------------------------------------

Knitting tension – See how to measure it and why here
Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

-------------------------------------------------------


100% Alpaca
from 3.90 $ /50g
DROPS Alpaca uni colour DROPS Alpaca uni colour 3.90 $ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
Order
DROPS Alpaca mix DROPS Alpaca mix 4.00 $ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
Order

75% Mohair, 25% Silk
from 5.30 $ /25g
DROPS Kid-Silk uni colour DROPS Kid-Silk uni colour 5.30 $ /25g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
Order
DROPS Kid-Silk long print DROPS Kid-Silk long print 5.30 $ /25g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
Order
needles DROPS Needles & Hooks
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 40.70$. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
----------------------------------------------------------

EXPLANATION FOR THE PATTERN:

----------------------------------------------------------

GARTER STITCH (back and forth):
Knit all rows.
1 ridge vertically = knit 2 rows.

PATTERN:
See diagrams A.1 to A.4. Diagrams show all rows in pattern seen from the right side.

DECREASE TIP (evenly):
To calculate how to decrease evenly, use the number of stitches decreases are done over (e.g. 25 stitches) and divide stitches by number of decreases to be done (e.g. 3) = 8.3.
In this example decrease by working approx. every 7th and 8th stitch together.

INCREASE TIP (applies to sleeves):
Work until 2 stitches remain before marker thread, 1 yarn over, knit 4 (marker thread is in the middle of these stitches), 1 yarn over. On next round knit yarn overs twisted to avoid holes. Then work the new stitches in stockinette stitch.

----------------------------------------------------------

START THE PIECE HERE:

----------------------------------------------------------

SWEATER - SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE:
Worked back and forth in several pieces and sewn together when finished. Work sleeves in the round on double pointed needles/a short circular needle.

BACK PIECE:
Cast on 101-113-125-137-149-161 stitches on circular needle size 4 mm = US 6 with 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk (= 2 strands). Purl 1 row from wrong side. Then work rib as follows: 3 stitches in GARTER STITCH – read explanation above, purl 1, (knit 3, purl 3) over the next 18-24-30-36-42-48 stitches, A.1a over the next 29 stitches, A.2a over the next 28 stitches, (purl 3, knit 3) over the next 18-24-30-36-42-48 stitches, purl 1, 3 stitches in garter stitch. Continue back and forth like this until the first 8 rows in diagrams have been worked vertically. Work next row as follows: 3 stitches in garter stitch, purl the next 19-25-31-37-43-49 stitches and decrease at the same time 0-3-6-8-8-9 stitches evenly – read DECREASE TIP, work next to last row in A.1a and A.2a, purl the next 19-25-31-37-43-49 stitches and decrease at the same time 0-3-6-8-8-9 stitches evenly, 3 stitches in garter stitch = 88-94-100-108-120-130 stitches. Work next row from wrong side with 3 stitches in garter stitch in each side, work last row in A.1a and A.2a and stockinette stitch with wrong side out (= knit from wrong side) over the remaining stitches.
Switch to circular needle size 5 mm = US 8.
Now work in the different sizes as follows: In size S and M work from next section below (skip the rest of this section). Continue as follows in size L, XL, XXL and XXXL work first pattern as follows: 3 stitches in garter stitch, purl 25-29-35-40, A.1b over the next 22 stitches, A.2b over the next 22 stitches, purl 25-29-35-40, 3 stitches in garter stitch. Continue back and forth like this until piece measures 5-5-6-6 cm = 2”-2”-2 3/8”-2 3/8” in total from cast-on edge, adjust so that next row is worked from right side.

All sizes:
Now work pattern as follows: 3 stitches in garter stitch, purl 1-4-7-11-17-22, A.3a over the next 40 stitches, A.4a over the next 40 stitches, purl 1-4-7-11-17-22, 3 stitches in garter stitch. REMEMBER THE KNITTING GAUGE! When piece measures 17 cm = 6 3/4”, cast on 1 new stitch at the end of the next 2 rows for edge stitch (this marks the vent) = 90-96-102-110-122-132 stitches. Work the new stitch in each side in garter stitch (= 4 stitches in garter stitch in each side). When A.3a and A.4a have been worked vertically, continue with A.3b over A.3a and A.4b over A.4a 2 times in total vertically. When piece measures 45-46-47-48-49-50 cm = 17 3/4”-18”-18 1/2”-19”-19 1/4”-19 3/4”, bind off 2-4-5-5-6-7 stitches for armholes at the beginning of the next 2 rows = 86-88-92-100-110-118 stitches. Continue with the pattern as before and work the outermost 3 stitches in each side in garter stitch. When A.3b and A.4b have been worked vertically 2 times, work A.3c over A.3b and A.4c over A.4b, then work knit over knit and purl over purl until finished measurements. At the same time when piece measures 58-60-62-64-66-68 cm = 22 3/4"-23 5/8"-24 3/8"-25 1/4"-26"-26 3/4", bind off the middle 36-36-38-38-40-40 stitches for neck and finish each shoulder separately. Then on next row from neck bind off 1 stitch (1 stitch is also decreased in diagram A.3c/A.4c) = 23-24-25-29-33-37 stitches. When piece measures 62-64-66-68-70-72 cm = 24 3/8"-25 1/4"-26"-26 3/4"-27 1/2"-28 3/8”, bind off all stitches. Work the other shoulder the same way.

FRONT PIECE:
Cast on and work pattern the same way as back piece. Bind off stitches for armholes as on back piece = 86-88-92-100-110-118 stitches. When A.3b and A.4.b have been worked vertically 2 times, work A.3c over A.3b and A.4c over A.4b, then work knit over knit and purl over purl until finished measurements. At the same time when piece measures 53-54-56-57-59-60 cm = 21”-21 1/4”-22”-22 1/2”-23 1/4”-23 5/8”, slip the middle 20-20-20-20-22-22 stitches on a stitch holder for neck and finish each shoulder separately. Then bind off stitches on every row from neck as follows: Bind off 4 stitches 1 time, 2 stitches 1 time and 1 stitch 3-3-4-4-4-4 times (decrease in addition 1 stitch in diagram A.3c/A.4c) = 23-24-25-29-33-37 stitches. When piece measures 62-64-66-68-70-72 cm = 24 3/8"-25 1/4"-26"-26 3/4"-27 1/2"-28 3/8”, bind off all stitches. Work the other shoulder the same way.

SLEEVES:
Work sleeves in the round on double pointed needles/a short circular needle in stockinette stitch with right side outwards.
Cast on 36-36-42-42-42-48 stitches on double pointed needles size 4 mm = US 6. Knit 1 round. Insert 1 marker thread at beginning of round and move it upwards when working. Work rib (knit 3/purl 3) for 4 cm = 1 1/2”. * Knit 2, 1 yarn over *, work from *-* in the round on round = 54-54-63-63-63-72 stitches. Switch to double pointed needles size 5 mm = US 8. Work in stockinette stitch in the round. When piece measures 14 cm = 5 1/2”, increase 2 stitches under sleeve - read INCREASE TIP. Increase like this approx. every 14-9-0-10-8-14 cm = 5 1/2”-3 1/2”-0”-4”-3 1/8”-5 1/2” 2-4-1-3-4-2 times in total = 58-62-65-69-71-76 stitches. Continue with stockinette stitch until sleeve measures 47-46-45-44-41-40 cm = 18 1/2”-18”-17 3/4”-17 1/4”-16 1/8”-15 3/4” (shorter measurements in the larger sizes because of wider shoulders). Now continue back and forth (this is done to make it possible to sew the sleeve to where stitches were bind off for armhole on body). When sleeve measures 52-52-52-51-49-48 cm = 20 1/2”-20 1/2”-20 1/2”-20”-19 1/4”-19”, bind off all stitches. Work another sleeve the same way.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew shoulder seams inside bind-off edge. Sew sleeves in body with stockinette stitch (right side) sew inside 1 edge stitch in garter stitch on body and inside bind-off edge on sleeve. Sew seam under sleeves and down the side on body down to where 1 stitch was cast on (= approx. 17 cm = 6 3/4” vent). Repeat in the other side.

NECK EDGE:
Begin at the top in the middle on one shoulder and pick up 108-108-114-114-120-120 stitches from right side with 1 strand of each quality ( = 2 strands) on circular needle size 4 mm = US 6. Work rib (knit 3/purl 3) for 3 cm = 1 1/8”. Bind off stitches with knit over knit and purl over purl.

This pattern has been corrected. .

Updated online: 18.02.2021
BACK PIECE: ... – read DECREASE TIP, work next to last row in A.1a and A.2a (NOT A.2b), ...

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

symbols = knit from the right side, purl from the wrong side
symbols = purl from the right side, knit from the wrong side
symbols = between 2 stitches make 1 yarn over, on next row (from wrong side) knit or purl yarn over - see next row in diagram - it should make holes
symbols = between 2 stitches make 1 yarn over, on next row (from wrong side) knit or purl yarn over twisted - see next row in diagram - it should not make holes
symbols = knit 2 together
symbols = slip 1 stitch knitwise, knit 1, pass slipped stitch over
symbols = purl 2 together
symbols = knit 3 together (= 2 stitches decreased)
symbols = slip 1 stitch off the needle knitwise (= 1 stitch is moved on to right needle), slip stitch back on left needle twisted and knit 3 twisted together (= 2 stitches decreased)
symbols = slip 1 stitch knitwise, knit 2 together, pass slipped stitch over (= 2 stitches decreased)
symbols = purl 3 together (= 2 stitches decreased)
symbols = this square is not a stitch because stitch was decreased earlier, go directly to next symbol in diagram
diagram
diagram
diagram
diagram
diagram

Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 201-6) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

signature-image signature

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

We have also step-by-step guides for different techniques which you'll find here.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

to top

2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

to top

3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

to top

4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

to top

5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

to top

6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

to top

7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

to top

8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

to top

9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

to top

10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

to top

11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

to top

12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

to top

13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

to top

14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

to top

15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

to top

16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

to top

17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

to top

18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

to top

19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

to top

20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

to top

21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

to top

22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

to top

23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

to top

Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (12)

country flag Helle Madsen wrote:

Tak for dit svar, men det er ikke hvad der står i opskriften. Her står: strik næst sidste pind i A.1a og A.2b, strik vrang over de næste 19-25-31-37-43-49 masker og tag samtidig 0-3-6-8-8-9 masker ind jævnt fordelt, 3 masker retstrik = 88-94-100-108-120-130 masker. Strik næste pind tilbage fra vrangen med 3 masker

18.02.2021 - 14:02

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Helle, det må vi få rettet fra a til b, så man strikker de to første diagrammer færdigt først. Det er dem som indeholder indtagningerne så dem er man nødt til at få færdige inden man fortsætter med næste stykke :)

18.02.2021 kl. 14:44

country flag Helle Madsen wrote:

Jeg er netop startet på denne smukke bluse, men er løbet ind i et problem, som jeg ikke kan knække. Jeg har slået 113 m op, strikket de 8 omg. Nu skal jeg til at tage ind: strik 3 ret, strik 25 m - og tag 3 m ind (så er der 22m tilbage), strik næstsidste omg. i mønster A.2a - dvs. der tages 7 m ind, strik A.2b, strik 25 m - tag 3 m ind (22m tilbage) osv, osv. Nu har jeg taget 13 m ind på denne omg. og ender op med 100 m på pinden. Der skal være 94 m. Hvad gør jeg galt ???

18.02.2021 - 09:31

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Helle, du tager 13 masker ind ifølge A.1a og A.2a. Det vil sige 113-3-3-13 = 94 masker. God fornøjelse!

18.02.2021 kl. 13:35

country flag Clawur wrote:

Am Ende des Ärmels soll hin und zurück weitergestrickt werden, wie soll ich das verstehen?

08.10.2020 - 22:41

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Frau Clawur, die Ärmel werden (am Ende) gestrickt und dann eingenäht wie in diesem Video gezeigt; Viel Spaß beim stricken!

09.10.2020 kl. 07:58

country flag Judy Schulte wrote:

Gauge: should it be worked on size 6 or 8 needles? I got gauge on size 8 needles. Should I use that size to knit the sweater and not size 6 as instructed?

02.08.2019 - 15:37

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Judy, you're right: you should use the needle you reach the gauge with. Happy crafting!

02.08.2019 kl. 15:46

country flag Caroline wrote:

In de uitleg staat volgens mij een fout. Bij het Achterpand staat (boord naald 9) :brei de volgende tot de laatste naald in A.1a en A.2b, Volgens mij moet dit zijn A.1a en A.2a.

25.03.2019 - 19:17

country flag Silvia wrote:

Posso fare questo modello con i ferri dritti? Se la risposta è si, vorrei chiedervi come devo regolarmi per i diagrammi...considero sempre che rappresentano il diritto del lavoro e quindi quando lavoro il rovescio devo cambiare i punti ? Grazie mille

04.02.2019 - 15:10

DROPS Design answered:

Buongiorno Silvia, come può leggere nelle spiegazioni questo modello è lavorato in piano in parti separate e poi cucito alla fine, per cui può lavorarlo con i ferri dritti seguendo le istruzioni. Buon lavoro!

04.02.2019 kl. 15:50

country flag Sarah wrote:

Bonjour, je souhaiterais tricoter ce modèle en employant le coloris Bruyère pour le Kid Silk. Pouvez-vous m'indiquer quelle est la couleur correspondante pour l'alpaga ? c'est difficile à voir sur l'ordinateur. merci et bonne journée

29.01.2019 - 08:54

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Sarah, pour toute assistance au choix des couleurs, merci de bien vouloir directement contacter votre magasin DROPS, même par mail ou téléphone, on saura vous y conseiller. Bon tricot!

29.01.2019 kl. 09:25

country flag Tanja wrote:

Sorry... der Fehler ist beim Rückenteil in Reihe 9 zu finden.

28.01.2019 - 21:38

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Tanja, danke für den Hinweis, deutsche Anleitung wird angepasst. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

29.01.2019 kl. 09:30

country flag Tanja wrote:

"die vorletzte Reihe von A.1a und A.2b stricken" Dieser Part enthält einen Fehler. Es muss heißen A.1a und A.2a. Wunderschönes Modell! Ich bin gerade an dieser Stelle. :-)

28.01.2019 - 21:36

country flag Sylvie wrote:

Comment faire pour avoir le modèle en explication? Merci d'avance

24.01.2019 - 19:24

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Sylvie, ce modèle n'est pas encore disponible, revenez régulièrement pour voir s'il a été publié. Bon tricot!

25.01.2019 kl. 08:48

Post a comment to pattern DROPS 201-6

We would love to hear what you have to say about this pattern!

If you want to leave a question, please make sure you select the correct category in the form below, to speed up the answering process. Required fields are marked *.