Shade of Winter by DROPS Design

Knitted shawl with cables, lace pattern and garter stitch in DROPS Sky.

Keywords: cable, lace, shawls
DROPS 195-36
DROPS Design: Pattern no sk-008
Yarn group B
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Measurements: Height in middle: 72 cm = 28 3/8”. Width: 144 cm = 56 1/2”.
Materials:
DROPS SKY from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group B)
250 g color 03, light beige

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ACCESSORIES FOR THE PIECE:

KNITTING GAUGE:
21 stitches in width and 28 rows in height in stockinette stitch = 10 x 10 cm = 4” x 4”.

NEEDLES:
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 4 MM = US 6: length 80 cm = 32”.
The needle size is only a guide. If you get too many stitches on 10 cm = 4”, change to a larger needle size. If you get too few stitches on 10 cm = 4”, change to a smaller needle size.

DROPS CABLE NEEDLE – for cables.

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Knitting tension – See how to measure it and why here
Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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74% Alpaca, 18% Polyamide, 8% Wool
from 5.90 $ /50g
DROPS Sky uni colour DROPS Sky uni colour 5.90 $ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
Order
DROPS Sky mix DROPS Sky mix 5.90 $ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
Order
needles DROPS Needles & Hooks
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 29.50$. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
EXPLANATIONS FOR THE PATTERN:

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RIDGE/GARTER STITCH (worked back and forth):
1 ridge = Knit 2 rows.

PATTERN:
See diagrams A.1 to A.8. Pattern A.a is worked first, then repeat pattern A.b in height over pattern A.a to finished length. The diagrams show all the rows in the pattern seen from the right side.
As you are decreasing and increasing in diagrams A.1b and A.2b and A.7 and A.8, the number of stitches can vary by 1 stitch per repeat in the diagrams if it is just after a decreased.

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START THE PIECE HERE:

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SHAWL - SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE:
The shawl is worked back and forth, top down.

SHAWL:
Cast on 7 stitches with circular needle size 4 mm = US 6 and Sky. Knit 1 row from the wrong side.

Work as follows from the right side: Work 1 edge stitch in GARTER STITCH - read description above, * A.1a (= 1 stitch), A.2a (= 1 stitch) *, 1 mid stitch in stockinette stitch, work from *-* 1 more time and finish with 1 edge stitch in garter stitch.
Continue this pattern. The yarn overs are not worked twisted to leave holes.
The increases are drawn in the diagrams; you increase 4 stitches on the first increase and 8 stitches on the 2nd and 3rd increases. These three increases are repeated in height to finished length. REMEMBER THE KNITTING GAUGE!
When A.1a and A.2a have been worked 1 time in height there are 91 stitches on the needle.

The next row is worked as follows from the right side:
Work 1 edge stitch in garter stitch, * A.3a (= 1 stitch), A.1b (= 21 stitches), A.2b (= 21 stitches), A.4a (= 1 stitch) *, 1 mid-stitch in stockinette stitch, work from *-* 1 more time and finish with 1 edge stitch in garter stitch.
A.1b and A.2b are repeated in height to finished length.
When A.3a and A.4a have been worked 1 time in height there are 147 stitches on the needle.

The next row is worked as follows from the right side:
Work 1 edge stitch in garter stitch, * A.5a (= 1 stitch), A.3b (= 14 stitches), A.1b and A.2b as before (= a total of 42 stitches), A.4b (= 14 stitches), A.6a (= 1 stitch) *, 1 mid-stitch in stockinette stitch, work from *-* 1 more time and finish with 1 edge stitch in garter stitch.
A.3b and A.4b are repeated in height to finished length.
When A.5a and A.6a have been worked 1 time in height there are 199 stitches on the needle.

The next row is worked as follows from the right side:
Work 1 edge stitch in garter stitch, * A.7a (= 1 stitch), A.5b (= 13 stitch), A.1b to A.4b as before (= a total of 70 stitches), A.6b (= 13 stitches), A.8a (= 1 stitch) *, 1 mid-stitch in stockinette stitch, work from *-* 1 more time and finish with 1 edge stitch in garter stitch.
A.5b and A.6b are repeated in height to finished length.
When A.7a and A.8a have been worked 1 time in height there are 247 stitches on the needle.

The next row is worked as follows from the right side:
Work 1 edge stitch in garter stitch, * A.1a over the next stitch, A.7b (= 12 stitches), A.1b to A.6b as before (= a total of 96 stitches), A.8b (= 12 stitches), A.2a over the next stitch *, 1 mid-stitch in stockinette stitch, work from *-* 1 more time and finish with 1 edge stitch in garter stitch.
A.7b and A.8b are repeated in height to finished length.

Continue this pattern, i.e. when A.1a and A.2a have been worked 1 time in height inside the 1 edge stitch in each side and on each side of the mid-stitch, A.3a and A.4a are worked inside the 1 edge stitch in each side of the piece and on each side of the mid-stitch etc. Continue this pattern and these increases in height until the piece measures approx. 64 cm = 25 1/4”, measured along the mid-stitch (there is now approx. 8 cm = 3 1/8” left); adjust so that the pattern inside the 1 edge stitch and on each side of the mid-stitch has finished increasing (i.e. if there is a cable, so that all stitches in the cable has been increased). Continue to increase and work pattern as before, but now work the increased stitches in garter stitch. Continue like this until the piece measures 72 cm = 28 3/8” measured along the mid-stitch. Bind off with knit over knit, purl over purl and garter stitch over garter stitch; make sure the bind-off edge is not tight; you can use a larger needle size to bind off if this is a problem.

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

symbols = knit from right side, purl from wrong side
symbols = purl from right side, knit from wrong side
symbols = this square has no stitch because it was decreased earlier; go straight to next symbol in diagram.
symbols = between 2 stitches make 1 yarn over
symbols = work 3 stitches, pass the first stitch worked over the last 2 stitches so that this stitch lies around the other two (= 1 stitch decreased)
symbols = knit 2 together
symbols = slip 1 stitch as if to knit, knit 1, pass the slipped stitch over the knitted stitch
symbols = place 2 stitches on cable needle in front of piece, knit 2, knit 2 from cable needle
symbols = place 2 stitches on cable needle behind piece, knit 2, knit 2 from cable needle
symbols = place 4 stitches on cable needle in front of piece, knit 4, knit 4 from cable needle
symbols = place 4 stitches on cable needle behind, knit 4, knit 4 from cable needle
diagram
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Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 195-36) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

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Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

We have also step-by-step guides for different techniques which you'll find here.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (22)

country flag Julie Francoeur wrote:

Bonjour quand on fini A.5a il y a 2 augmentations sur le rang endroit et quand on commence A.7a, il y a encore 2 augmentations en commençant. Ne faut il pas alterner 2 augmentions et 1 augmentation en début de rang endroit?

27.11.2022 - 21:14

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Francoeur, augmentez bien comme indiqué par les diagrammes, autrement dit 2 m au dernier rang sur l'endroit de A.5a/A.6a et 2 mailles au 1er rang sur l'endroit de A.7a/A.8a. Bon tricot!

28.11.2022 kl. 11:08

country flag Sandrine wrote:

Je pense qu'il y a une erreur dans le patron. Quand on obtient 199m vous écrivez: "tricoter le rg suivant sur l'endroit ainsi: 1m lisière au pt mousse *A.7.a, A.5.b, A.1.b à A.4.b comme avant (=70m) etc. mais A.1.B à A.4.b représente 56m (A.1.b 21m+ A.2.b 21m+A.4.b 14m) Il manque donc 14m En fait il faut répéter de A.3.b à A.4.b et on a bien le bon nombre de mailles (70m= A.3.b 14m + A.1.b 21m+ A.2.b 21m+A.4.b 14m) et surtout le bon motif

11.09.2022 - 23:31

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Sandrine, les diagrammes précédent se tricotent toujours comme précédemment, autrement dit vous avez pour A.1b à A.4b 70 m au total soit: A.1b = 21 m + A.2b = 21 m + A.3b = 14 m + A.4b = 14 m (21+21+14+14=70 m). Bon tricot!

12.09.2022 kl. 12:15

country flag Melanie wrote:

Ich weiß nicht wie beim Diagramm angegeben die drei Maschen stricken (=1 M abgenommen) funktioniert. Meiner Meinung nach werden hier 2 M abgenommen.

21.02.2022 - 12:36

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Melanie, es wird nur 1 Masche abgenommen, so stricken Sie: stricken Sie die 3 Maschen rechts, dann die erste dieser Maschen ziehen Sie über die 2 anderen Maschen = 2 Maschen bleiben. Bei der nächsten Reihe machen Sie 1 Umschlag zwischen diesen beiden Maschen = es sind wieder 3 Maschen. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

21.02.2022 kl. 13:28

country flag Joëlle SABINE wrote:

Bonjour, je ne comprends pas comment augmenter au milieu du châle, je ne vois pas cela sur les diagrammes. Merci de m'aider. Joëlle

12.12.2021 - 19:11

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Sabine, les augmentations du milieu du châle figurent dans les diagrammes, autrement dit lorsque vous tricotez A.1a/A.2a dès le début, vous augmentez dans A.1a en début de rang, dans A.2a avant la maille centrale, dans A.1a après la maille centrale et dans A.2a à la fin du rang. Vous augmenterez ensuite dans A.3a/A.4a de la même façon: en début de rang et après la m centrale (A.3a) et après la m centrale + en fin de rang (A.4a). Bon tricot!

13.12.2021 kl. 10:04

country flag Paula Teixeira wrote:

Como faço a última parte do xaile? Não percebo qual a sequência do diagrama. Obrigado

03.10.2021 - 13:16

DROPS Design answered:

Bom dia, Depois de tricotar A.7b e A.8b 1 vez em altura, A.1a e A.2a estão terminados. Vai agora tricotar A.3a e A.4a de cada lado (depois da malha ourela e antes da malha central para a 1,ª metade do xaile e depois da malha central e eantes da malha ourela a outra metade). e repetem-se os motivos em altura entre estes diagramas, pela mesma ordem que se tricotou até agora, Bons tricôs!

04.10.2021 kl. 10:35

country flag Andrea wrote:

Ich habe die gleiche Frage wie Nadine am 15.12.2018. Ich verstehe aber die Antwort nicht! Bitte die Reihenfolge der Muster in dieser Reihe genau angeben (z.B.: A.3a - A.3b - A.7b - .....) Außerdem möchte ich gerne wissen, ob es stimmt, wenn ich an dieser Stelle 331 Maschen auf der Nadel habe? Vielen Dank!!

15.12.2020 - 21:17

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Andrea, leider verstehe ich Ihre Frage nicht, können Sie es anders ausprechen? Die Diagramme werden immer wie zuvor in der Höhe wiederholt, und in die gleiche Reihenfolge, dh nach A.7b/A.8b stricken Sie die neuen Maschen mit A.1/A.2 dann weiter mit A.3 und A.4 wie zuvor, dann A.5/A.5 usw bis Sie die gewünschte Höhe erhalten. Nach A.1/A.2 gestrickt sind, haben Sie ja 331 M auf der Nadel. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

16.12.2020 kl. 07:01

country flag Ghislaine Ethier wrote:

Bonjour je suis entrain de réaliser A1A /A7B /A1B à A6B /A8B A2A dans le patron vous écrivez répéter A7B et A8B en hauteur j'usqu'a la fin Ma question est le reste de A1A A1B a A6B est çe que on continue j'usqu'a la fin du schéma !!! Merci j'attends votre réponse !!!! Pourriez vous me dire combien on doit avoir de maille à la fin de çe schéma !!!!

13.12.2020 - 13:26

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Ethier, après avoir tricoté A.7b et A.8b 1 fois en hauteur, A.1a et A.2a sont terminés, vous allez maintenant tricoter A.3a et A.4a de chaque côté (après la m lisière et la m centrale pour la 1ère moitié et après la m centrale et avant la m lis de l'autre côté). et vous répétez les motifs en hauteur entre ces diagrammes, dans le même ordre que précédemment. Le nombre de mailles à la fin dépend de votre tension en hauteur et donc du nombre de rangs que vous devrez tricoter pour la hauteur souhaitée. Bon tricot!

14.12.2020 kl. 09:02

country flag Ghislaine Ethier wrote:

J’ai fait le diagramme A3a A1b A2b et A4a Ma question est le diagramme A3a et le diagramme A4a donne 16 rangs !!! Et le diagramme A1b et A2b donne 12 rangs alors comment je fait pour les derniers 4 rangs pour finir !!!! Ils manquent 4 rangs à A1b et à A2b j’attends votre réponse merci Ghislaine !!!!

01.12.2020 - 19:44

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Ghislaine, les motifs ne se répètent pas de la même façon = pas sur le même nombre de rangs; ainsi, quand A.1b et A.2b sont terminés, reprenez-les au 1er rang, et continuez A.3a et A.4a comme l'indiquent les diagrammes. Vous devez toujours bien avoir le même nombre de rangs entre les torsades de A.1b/A.2b. Bon tricot!

02.12.2020 kl. 07:38

country flag Heidi Wyss wrote:

Guten Tag miteinander Das Tuch gefällt mir sehr! Nur habe ich Probleme mit der Arbeit...Ich habe mit 7 M begonnen und A1a und A2a gstrickt...nur habe ich am Ende nur 47 M und nicht die 91. Ich nehme an dass ich mit der Spitze unten beginne und dass die Randmaschen und die Mittelmasche nicht eingezeichnet sind. Was mache ich falsch? Herzlichen Dank! Heidi Wyss

13.08.2020 - 06:38

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Frau Wyss, das Tuch wird von oben nach unten gestrickt, und die 7 Maschen werden so gestrickt: 1 Randmasche, (A.1a, A.2a), 1 Mittelmasche glatt rechts, (A.1a, A.2a), 1 Randmasche (= 1+1+1+1+ 1+1+1 = 7 M). Stricken Sie wie in den Diagrammen gezeigt (mehr lesen Sie hier) = 22 M in A.1a und in A.2a = 1+ (22+22) + 1 + (22+22) + 1 = 91 M. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

13.08.2020 kl. 09:44

country flag Maurizia wrote:

Non capisco l'inizio 7 maglie con il disegno a.1a e A.2a gli aumenti quali sono . Grazie

01.05.2020 - 14:56

DROPS Design answered:

Buongiorno Maurizia. Gli aumenti sono le maglie gettate riportate nei diagrammi. Buon lavoro!

01.05.2020 kl. 15:04

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