DROPS / 195 / 36

Shade of Winter by DROPS Design

Knitted shawl with cables, lace pattern and garter stitch in DROPS Sky.

Tags: cable, lace, shawls,

DROPS Design: Pattern no sk-008
Yarn group B
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Measurements: Height in middle: 72 cm. Width: 144 cm.
Materials:
DROPS SKY from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group B)
250 g colour 03, light beige

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ACCESSORIES FOR THE PIECE:

KNITTING TENSION:
21 stitches in width and 28 rows in height in stocking stitch = 10 x 10 cm.

NEEDLES:
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 4 MM: length 80 cm.
The needle size is only a guide. If you get too many stitches on 10 cm, change to a larger needle size. If you get too few stitches on 10 cm, change to a smaller needle size.

DROPS CABLE NEEDLE – for cables.

Have you knitted/crocheted this or any other of our designs? Tag your pictures in social media with #dropsdesign so we can see them!

Want to use a different yarn? Try our yarn converter!
Not sure which size you should choose? Then it might help you to know that the model in the picture is approx. 170 cm and uses size S or M. If you are making a jumper, cardigan, dress or similar garment, you will find a graphic with the measurements of the finished garment (in cm) at the bottom of the pattern.

74% Alpaca, 18% Polyamide, 8% Wool
from 3.45 £ /50g
DROPS Sky uni colour DROPS Sky uni colour 3.45 £ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
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DROPS Sky mix DROPS Sky mix 3.45 £ /50g
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DROPS Needles & Hooks
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 17.25£. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
EXPLANATIONS FOR THE PATTERN:

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RIDGE/GARTER STITCH (worked back and forth):
1 ridge = Knit 2 rows.

PATTERN: 
See diagrams A.1 to A.8. Pattern A.a is worked first, then repeat pattern A.b in height over pattern A.a to finished length. The diagrams show all the rows in the pattern seen from the right side.
As you are decreasing and increasing in diagrams A.1b and A.2b and A.7 and A.8, the number of stitches can vary by 1 stitch per repeat in the diagrams if it is just after a decreased.

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START THE PIECE HERE:

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SHAWL - SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE:
The shawl is worked back and forth, top down.

SHAWL:
Cast on 7 stitches with circular needle size 4 mm and Sky. Knit 1 row from the wrong side.

Work as follows from the right side: Work 1 edge stitch in GARTER STITCH - read description above, * A.1a (= 1 stitch), A.2a (= 1 stitch) *, 1 mid stitch in stocking stitch, work from *-* 1 more time and finish with 1 edge stitch in garter stitch.
Continue this pattern. The yarn overs are not worked twisted to leave holes.
The increases are drawn in the diagrams; you increase 4 stitches on the first increase and 8 stitches on the 2nd and 3rd increases. These three increases are repeated in height to finished length. REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION!
When A.1a and A.2a have been worked 1 time in height there are 91 stitches on the needle.

The next row is worked as follows from the right side:
Work 1 edge stitch in garter stitch, * A.3a (= 1 stitch), A.1b (= 21 stitches), A.2b (= 21 stitches), A.4a (= 1 stitch) *, 1 mid-stitch in stocking stitch, work from *-* 1 more time and finish with 1 edge stitch in garter stitch.
A.1b and A.2b are repeated in height to finished length.
When A.3a and A.4a have been worked 1 time in height there are 147 stitches on the needle.

The next row is worked as follows from the right side:
Work 1 edge stitch in garter stitch, * A.5a (= 1 stitch), A.3b (= 14 stitches), A.1b and A.2b as before (= a total of 42 stitches), A.4b (= 14 stitches), A.6a (= 1 stitch) *, 1 mid-stitch in stocking stitch, work from *-* 1 more time and finish with 1 edge stitch in garter stitch.
A.3b and A.4b are repeated in height to finished length.
When A.5a and A.6a have been worked 1 time in height there are 199 stitches on the needle.

The next row is worked as follows from the right side:
Work 1 edge stitch in garter stitch, * A.7a (= 1 stitch), A.5b (= 13 stitch), A.1b to A.4b as before (= a total of 70 stitches), A.6b (= 13 stitches), A.8a (= 1 stitch) *, 1 mid-stitch in stocking stitch, work from *-* 1 more time and finish with 1 edge stitch in garter stitch.
A.5b and A.6b are repeated in height to finished length.
When A.7a and A.8a have been worked 1 time in height there are 247 stitches on the needle.

The next row is worked as follows from the right side:
Work 1 edge stitch in garter stitch, * A.1a over the next stitch, A.7b (= 12 stitches), A.1b to A.6b as before (= a total of 96 stitches), A.8b (= 12 stitches), A.2a over the next stitch *, 1 mid-stitch in stocking stitch, work from *-* 1 more time and finish with 1 edge stitch in garter stitch.
A.7b and A.8b are repeated in height to finished length.

Continue this pattern, i.e. when A.1a and A.2a have been worked 1 time in height inside the 1 edge stitch in each side and on each side of the mid-stitch, A.3a and A.4a are worked inside the 1 edge stitch in each side of the piece and on each side of the mid-stitch etc. Continue this pattern and these increases in height until the piece measures approx. 64 cm, measured along the mid-stitch (there is now approx. 8 cm left); adjust so that the pattern inside the 1 edge stitch and on each side of the mid-stitch has finished increasing (i.e. if there is a cable, so that all stitches in the cable has been increased). Continue to increase and work pattern as before, but now work the increased stitches in garter stitch. Continue like this until the piece measures 72 cm measured along the mid-stitch. Cast off with knit over knit, purl over purl and garter stitch over garter stitch; make sure the cast-off edge is not tight; you can use a larger needle size to cast off if this is a problem.

Diagram

= knit from right side, purl from wrong side
= purl from right side, knit from wrong side
= this square has no stitch because it was decreased earlier; go straight to next symbol in diagram.
= between 2 stitches make 1 yarn over
= work 3 stitches, pass the first stitch worked over the last 2 stitches so that this stitch lies around the other two (= 1 stitch decreased)
= knit 2 together
= slip 1 stitch as if to knit, knit 1, pass the slipped stitch over the knitted stitch
= place 2 stitches on cable needle in front of piece, knit 2, knit 2 from cable needle
= place 2 stitches on cable needle behind piece, knit 2, knit 2 from cable needle
= place 4 stitches on cable needle in front of piece, knit 4, knit 4 from cable needle
= place 4 stitches on cable needle behind, knit 4, knit 4 from cable needle





Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 195-36) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

We have also step-by-step guides for different techniques which you'll find here.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (11)

Michels Mireille 08.05.2019 - 22:10:

Bonjour, J ai un peu de mal à réaliser cette beauté. Si les aug. sont faites au milieu, je n arrivé pas à garder le cap pour les points, pourriez vous m éclairer ? Puisque si je les aug il y en a de plus en plus et donc trop pour les points réalisé.

DROPS Design 09.05.2019 kl. 10:38:

Bonjour Mme Michels, vous augmentez à la fois au milieu et sur les côtés (au début (= 1er A.1a) et à la fin (2ème A.2a) du rang) - Quand A.1a et A.2a sont terminés = 91 m. Tricotez ensuite les 22 m de A1a par ex ainsi: 1 m de A.3a et les 21 m de A.1b, puis tricotez les 22 m de A.1b ainsi: les 21 m de A.2b et la m de A.4a - on continue ainsi la torsade et en même temps, on augmente 1 m à 1 m des bords + 1 m de chaque côté de la m jersey. Bon tricot!

Rachel Joanis 29.01.2019 - 18:29:

Bonjour, lorsque je tricote les grilles suivantes, A.3a A.1b A.2b et A.4a certaines de ces grilles n'ont pas le même nombre de rangs, j'en ai conclu que je dois reprendre 4 rangs pour les grilles A.1b et A.2b afin d'arriver au bon nombre de rangs, est-ce exact? Et pourquoi ne pas l'avoir indique dans le patron? Merci d'avance pour votre réponse Rachel

DROPS Design 30.01.2019 kl. 07:24:

Bonjour Rachel, les diagrammes de type a sont les augmentations (ex A.3a), les diagrammes de type b se tricotent sur les mailles déjà augmentées et vont se répéter en hauteur jusqu'à la fin, effectivement, en fonction des motifs, ils peuvent se répéter différemment. Bon tricot!

Margitta Gehrt 03.01.2019 - 18:12:

Sehr schönes Tuch! Entschuldige, aber diese Anleitung ist kompliziert und es sind doch nur je 6 Maschen mehr bei der 2. und 3. Zunahme, warum heißt es dann 8 Maschen? Liebe Grüße

DROPS Design 04.01.2019 kl. 12:06:

Liebe Frau Gehrt, bei der 1. Reihe in A.1a und A.2b nehmen Sie 1 Masche in jedem Diagram = 4 Zunahme (2 vor die mittlere Masche und 2 danach). Nach der 3. und 5. Reihe nehmen Sie dann je 2 Maschen in jedem Diagram = 8 Zunahmen. So stricken Sie weiter: 1 x 4 Zunahmen, 2 x 8 Zunahmen, wie in den beiden Diagramme gezeigt. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

Nadine 15.12.2018 - 09:58:

Hallo, Ich bin jetzt kurz vorm beenden der Arbeit und habe A.1a und A.2a schon das zweite Mal gestrickt. Danach soll man ja A.3a und A.4a wiederholen und das Muster weiterführen. Was mache ich mit den 21 Maschen, die Zwischen A.3a und A.7b sind? Danke 😊

DROPS Design 17.12.2018 kl. 09:38:

Liebe Nadine, die neuen Maschen (innerhalb der Randmaschen und beidseitig der Mittelmasche) werden im Muster wie zuvor wiederholt = über A.3a und A.4a stricken Sie A.3b und A.4b mit A.4a dann A.5a mit A.4b usw. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

Yvonne Lund 14.12.2018 - 10:10:

Hej!\r\nJag har börjat sticka 195-36 en sjal ”shade of winter” men har svårt med att tolka den första diagram, jag tycker det ser ut som hål längst in mot mitten på båda sidor men det blir inte så om jag följer diagrammen. Desutom står der i beskrivningen att det ska vara 91 maskor när jag er klar med diagram A.2a A.1a. \r\nHoppas på svar från er. \r\nHälsning \r\nYvonne Lund \r\nTel 0705137974

DROPS Design 14.12.2018 kl. 11:01:

Hei Yvonne. Du har 7 masker på pinnen, og strikker slik: 1 kantmaske i rille, A.1a, A.2a, 1 maske glattstrikk (=midtmasken), A.1a, A.2a, 1 kantmaske i rille. Det økes med kast ytterst i begge diagrammene, altså mot yetterkanten av sjalet (A.1a på høyre side og A.2a på venstre side) og mote midten (A.2a på høyre side og A.1a på venstre side). Kastene skal ikke strikkes vridd, og det blir derfor hullmønster langs ytterkanten og langs midten. Når du er ferdig med A.1a/A.2a har du 22 masker i hvert diagram (=44 masker på hver side av midten). = 88 masker, pluss 1 midtmaske og 1 kantmaske i hver side = 91 masker. God fornøyelse.

Kim 06.11.2018 - 10:03:

Helaas klopt het bij mij nog steeds niet. Ik snap het nog.niet helemaal. Moet ik de teruggaande naald als verkeerde of.goede kant van het werk zien. Met vriendelijke groet, Kim

DROPS Design 07.11.2018 kl. 14:45:

Dag Kim,

De teruggaande naald moet je inderdaad alk verkeerde kant zien. Na het opzetten brei je 1 naald recht aan de verkeerde kant, dan keer je het werk en begin je met breien van het patroon zoals in de beschrijving is te lezen. Je breit steeds heen en en weer en de sjaal wordt vanuit het midden gebreid en je hebt steeds meer steken op de naald. Als er een verkooppunt bij je in de buurt is kun je ook altijd even langs gaan, zodat iemand met je mee kan kijken.

Kim 02.11.2018 - 18:42:

Er staat dat de goede kant in de tekening is beschreven, Hoe worden dan de teruggaande naalden gebreid? Prachtige omslagdoek!

DROPS Design 04.11.2018 kl. 20:29:

Dag Kim,

In de telpatronen zijn zowel de heengaande als de teruggaande naalden weergegeven, maar gezien aan de goede kant van het werk. Voor elk symbool staat aangegeven hoe je deze op de goede of de vereerde kant breit. Hier vind je meer info over het lezen van telpatronen.

Pilar 15.10.2018 - 18:57:

Podría darme el sketch para talla 48. También me gustaría tener planos de jerséis a ochos, para el mismo caso

Monika Opočenská 15.10.2018 - 18:22:

Dobrý den, prosím jak mám chápat *-*1x zopakujeme. Má to být *vzor A.1a (= 1 oko), vzor A.2a (= 1 oko)*, 1 středové oko lícovým žerzejem, *-* 1x zopakujeme a končíme 1 krajovým okem vroubkovým vzorem. Má to tedy být A.1a, A.2a a znovu A1a A.2a? Já bych to spíš dělala A1.a, A.2a a A2.a, A.1a. Aby to bylo zrcadlově a ne za sebou. Ráda bych šátek upletla, jen tomu potřebuju rozumět. Děkuji Monika Opočenská

DROPS Design 18.10.2018 kl. 06:39:

Dobrý den, Moniko, průběh vzoru je v pořádku - po prohození sekvencí vzoru by nevycházelo přidávání (vzory se rozšiřují vždy jen na jednu stranu). Zrcadlení je již zakotveno přímo ve vzorku - jednotlivé vzorové pruhy, "paprsky", by na sebe měly u středové linky navazovat. Hodně zdaru! Hana

Felis Catus 11.07.2018 - 16:51:

Beautiful! And it seems that this shawl have a unusual contruction. I'm eager to see the pattern!

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