Miss Pantsy-Pants by DROPS Design

Knitted onesie for children with round yoke in DROPS Merino Extra Fine. The piece is worked top down with Nordic pattern. Sizes 12 months – 6 years.

DROPS Design: Pattern no me-042-bn
Yarn group B
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Sizes: 12/18 months - 2 - 3/4 - 5/6 years
The size is equivalent to approx. height of child in cm:
80/86 - 92 - 98/104 - 110/116 
Materials: 
DROPS MERINO EXTRA FINE from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group B)
300-350-400-450 g colour 11, red
150-150-200-250 g colour 08, light beige
50-50-50-50 g colour 01, off white

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ACCESSORIES FOR THE PIECE:

KNITTING TENSION:
21 stitches in width and 28 rows in height with stocking stitch = 10 x 10 cm.

NEEDLES:
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 4 MM – for stocking stitch on sleeves.
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 4 MM: length 40 cm and 60 cm or 80 cm for stocking stitch.
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 3 MM – for rib on sleeves.
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 3 MM: length 60 cm or 80 cm for rib.
The needle size is only a guide. If you have too many stitches on 10 cm, change to a larger needle size. If you have too few stitches on 10 cm, change to a smaller needle size.

DROPS WOOD BUTTONS, Oak NO 503: 6-6-7-7 items.

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100% Wool
from 2.15 £ /50g
DROPS Merino Extra Fine uni colour DROPS Merino Extra Fine uni colour 2.15 £ /50g
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DROPS Merino Extra Fine mix DROPS Merino Extra Fine mix 2.15 £ /50g
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DROPS Needles & Hooks
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 21.50£. Read more.

Pattern instructions

EXPLANATIONS FOR THE PATTERN:

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RIDGE/GARTER STITCH (worked back and forth):
1 ridge = Knit 2 rows.

PATTERN: 
See diagrams A.1 and A.2. Choose diagram for your size. The whole pattern is worked in stocking stitch.

DECREASE/INCREASE TIP:
To work out when to decrease/increase evenly, count the total number of stitches on the needle (e.g. 76 stitches) and divide by the number of decreases/increases to be made (e.g. 7) = 10.8. In this example, decrease by working together approx. each 10th and 11th stitch, or increase after approx. each 11th stitch by making 1 yarn over (the yarn overs are worked twisted on the next row to avoid holes).

INCREASE TIP (for sides of body):
Increase 1 stitch on each side of the marker thread as follows: Start 2 stitches before the marker thread, make 1 yarn over, knit 4 (marker thread sits in the middle of these 4 stitches), make 1 yarn over (= 2 stitches increased). On the next row work the yarn overs twisted to avoid holes. 

DECREASE TIP (for mid under sleeve and inside of leg):
Decrease 1 stitch on each side of the marker thread as follows: Start 3 stitches before the marker thread, knit 2 together, knit 2 (marker thread sits between these 2 stitches), slip 1 stitch as if to knit, knit 1 and pass the slipped stitch over the knitted stitch (= 2 stitches decreased).

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START THE PIECE HERE:

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ONESIE - SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE:
The piece is worked back and forth with circular needle from mid front. To make measuring the length of the sleeves and legs easier, the onesie is worked top down. The bands are worked to finish.

NECK:
Cast on 76-80-84-88 stitches (including 1 edge stitch in each side of the piece) with circular needle size 3 mm and red. Purl 1 row from the wrong side with1 edge stitch in GARTER STITCH – read description above, in each side of the piece. Change to light beige.
The next row is worked as follows from the right side: 1 edge stitch in garter stitch, * knit 2, purl 2 *, work from *-* until there are 3 stitches left and finish with knit 2 and 1 edge stitch in garter stitch. Continue this rib for 3 cm, finish after a row from the right side.

YOKE:
Change to circular needle size 4 mm. The edge stitches are worked in garter stitch to finished length. Purl 1 row from the wrong side with 1 edge stitch in garter stitch in each side and decrease 7-5-4-1 stitches evenly on this row – read DECREASE/INCREASE TIP (purl 2 stitches together = 1 stitch decreased) = 69-75-80-87 stitches. Then work an elevation in back of neck in stocking stitch as follows (to give the garment a better fit):
Knit until there are 12-13-14-15 stitches left on row, turn, tighten strand and purl until there are 12-13-14-15 stitches left on other side. Turn, tighten strand and knit until there are 20-22-24-26 stitches left, turn, tighten strand and purl until there are 20-22-24-26 stitches left on other side. Turn, tighten strand and knit until there are 28-31-34-37 stitches left on row, turn, tighten strand and purl until there are 28-31-34-37 stitches left on other side. Turn, tighten strand and knit to end of row, then purl 1 row from the wrong side (edge stitches worked in garter stitch). The next row is worked as follows from the right side: 1 edge stitch in garter stitch, work pattern according to A.1 until there are 2 stitches left on row – NOTE: Choose diagram for your size (= 11-12-11-12 repeats of 6-6-7-7 stitches), work A.2 (= 1 stitch) and finish with 1 edge stitch in garter stitch.
Continue this pattern and increase as shown in diagram – REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION! When A.1 and A.2 have been completed, there are 179-195-212-231 stitches on the needle. Continue with stocking stitch and 1 edge stitch in garter stitch in each side with red.
On the next row from the right side increase 7-7-10-7 stitches evenly on row = 186-202-222-238 stitches.
Work until the piece measures approx. 13-14-15-16 cm mid front (measured without the neck).
Now divide the piece as follows: Work 25-27-30-32 stitches as before (= front piece), place the next 42-46-50-54 stitches on 1 thread for sleeve (without working them), cast on 6 new stitches on the needle, work 52-56-62-66 stitches (= back piece), place the next 42-46-50-54 stitches on 1 thread for sleeve (without working them), cast on 6 new stitches on the needle and work the remaining 25-27-30-32 stitches as before (= front piece) = 114-122-134-142 stitches.

BODY:
Insert 1 marker thread 28-30-33-35 stitches in from each side (= 58-62-68-72 stitches between marker threads on back piece). THE PIECE IS NOW MEASURED FROM HERE! Continue back and forth with stocking stitch and 1 edge stitch in garter stitch in each side towards mid front. When the piece measures 10-10-12-12 cm from where body and sleeves were divided, increase 1 stitch on each side of both marker threads – read INCREASE TIP (= 4 stitches increased). Repeat this increase when the piece measures 20-20-24-24 cm from where body and sleeves were divided = 122-130-142-150 stitches. When the piece measures 29-31-35-38 cm from where body and sleeves were divided, stop working the edge stitches in garter stitch mid front. Cast on 1 stitch at the end of the next 2 rows = 124-132-144-152 stitches. Then work stocking stitch in the round over all stitches for approx. 3 cm – the piece now measures 32-34-38-41 cm from the armhole and 45-48-53-57 cm from mid front (measured without neck). Now divide for the legs. 

LEG:
Start mid front, change to double pointed needles size 4 mm and work stocking stitch in the round over the first 62-66-72-76 stitches (the remaining 62-66-72-76 stitches are left on the circular needle). Insert 1 marker thread at the beginning of the round (= inside of leg). When the leg measures 2 cm from the division, decrease 2 stitches on the inside of the leg – read DECREASE TIP. Decrease like this every 3rd-4th-6th-7th round a total of 10-10-11-11 times = 42-46-50-54 stitches. When the leg measures 13-18-25-31 cm from the division increase 10 stitches evenly on round = 52-56-60-64 stitches. Change to double pointed needles size 3 mm and work rib in the round (= knit 2 / purl 2) for 8-8-10-10 cm or to desired length. On the next round increase all purl 2 to purl 3 = 65-70-75-80 stitches. Then cast off with knit over knit and purl over purl.
Place stitches from the circular needle onto double pointed needles size 4 mm and work the other leg in the same way. The whole piece measures approx. 71-79-93-103 cm, measured from the shoulder down.

SLEEVE:
Place stitches from the thread on the one side of the piece on double pointed needles size 4 mm and knit up 1 stitch in each of the 6 stitches cast on under the sleeve = 48-52-56-60 stitches. Insert 1 marker thread in the middle of these 6 stitches = mid under sleeve). THE PIECE IS NOW MEASURED FROM HERE! Work stocking stitch in the round with red. When the sleeve measures 2-2-1-1 cm from where the sleeve was divided from the body, decrease 2 stitches mid under sleeve – remember DECREASE TIP. Decrease like this every 3rd-3rd-4th-4th round a total of 7-9-10-12 times = 34-34-36-36 stitches. When the sleeve measures 10-12-15-18 cm from where it was divided from the body, increase 6-6-8-8 stitches evenly on round = 40-40-44-44 stitches. Change to double pointed needles size 3 mm and work rib in the round (= knit 2 / purl 2) for 8-8-10-10 cm or to desired length. On the next round increase all purl 2 to purl 3 = 50-50-55-55 stitches. Then cast off with knit over knit and purl over purl.
Work the other sleeve in the same way.

LEFT BAND:
Knit up approx. 114-148 stitches with circular needle size 3 mm, inside the 1 edge stitch from the right side (the number of stitches should be divisible by 2), start at top of neck. Make sure the band is not tight. Work rib (= knit 2 / purl 2). Make sure the 2 stitches at top of neck are knitted. Work until the band measures approx. 2 cm. Cast off with knit over knit and purl over purl.

RIGHT BAND: 
Work as for left band, but when the band measures 1 cm work 6-6-7-7 buttonholes evenly spaced on band (buttonholes are worked in purl sections seen from the right side). 1 buttonhole = purl 2 together and make 1 yarn over – the first buttonhole is worked approx. 1½-2 cm from the neckline, then work the next 5-5-6-6 buttonholes with approx. 7½-8-7½-8 cm between each one.

ASSEMBLY:
Lay right band over left band and sew down to the onesie where you cast on 1 stitch in each side, sew with small neat stitches. Sew buttons onto left band.

Diagram

= red
= light beige
= off white
= between 2 stitches make 1 yarn over with background colour in pattern stripe; on next row work yarn over twisted to avoid a hole



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