DROPS Karisma
DROPS Karisma
100% Wool
from 3.00 $ /50g
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 30.00$. Read more.

Canari

Knitted sweater with raglan in DROPS Karisma. The piece is worked top down with lace pattern. Sizes S - XXXL.

DROPS 195-16
DROPS Design: Pattern no u-871
Yarn group B
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Sizes: S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL
Materials:
DROPS KARISMA from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group B)
500-550-600-650-700-800 g color 79, lemon

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ACCESSORIES FOR THE PIECE:

KNITTING GAUGE:
21 stitches in width and 28 rows in height with stockinette stitch = 4'' x 4'' (10 x 10 cm).

NEEDLES:
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 4 MM / US 6.
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 4 MM / US 6: length 40 cm and 80 cm/16" and 32" for stockinette stitch.
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 3.5 MM / US 4.
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 3.5 MM / US 4: length 40 cm and 80 cm/16" and 32" for rib.
The needle size is only a guide. If you have too many stitches on 10 cm / 4'', change to a larger needle size. If you have too few stitches on 10 cm / 4'', change to a smaller needle size.

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Color combination shown are (in the same order as the materials list above):
A) DROPS Puna 14

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Knitting tension – See how to measure it and why here
Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Karisma
DROPS Karisma
100% Wool
from 3.00 $ /50g
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 30.00$. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
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EXPLANATIONS FOR THE PATTERN:

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RIDGE/GARTER STITCH (worked in the round):
1 ridge = 2 rounds. Knit 1 round and purl 1 round.

PATTERN: 
See diagrams A.1 to A.4. Choose diagram for your size (applies to A.2). The diagrams show all the rows in the pattern seen from the right side.

INCREASE TIP-1 (evenly spaced):
To work out how to increase evenly, count the total number of stitches on the needle (e.g. 88 stitches) and divide by the number of increases to be made (e.g. 10) = 8.8. 
In this example, increase by making 1 yarn over after approx. each 9th stitch. On the next round knit the yarn overs twisted to avoid holes.

INCREASE TIP-2 (for sides of body):
Start 2 stitches before the marker thread, 1 yarn over, knit 4 (marker thread sits in the middle of these 4 stitches), 1 yarn over (= 2 stitches increased). On the next row knit the yarn overs twisted to avoid holes. Then work the increased stitches in stockinette stitch.

DECREASE TIP (mid under sleeves): 
Start 3 stitches before the marker thread, knit 2 together, knit 2 (marker thread sits in the middle of these 2 stitches), slip 1 stitch as if to knit, knit 1 and pass the slipped stitch over the knitted stitch (= 2 stitches decreased).

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START THE PIECE HERE:

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SWEATER - SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE:
Neck, yoke and body are worked in the round with circular needle, top down. The sleeves are worked in the round with short circular needle/double pointed needles, top down.
Be aware that all the stitch numbers on the yoke and body are given with A.3 = 16 stitches, but A.3 varies between 16 and 17 stitches. If you have just worked rounds 1-2-5 or 6 in A.3 when the number of stitches is given, you will have 4 more stitches on the needle.

NECK:
Cast on 88-88-92-96-104-104 stitches with short circular needle size 3.5 mm / US 4 and Karisma. Work A.1. After A.1 knit 1 round where you increase 10-10-6-22-14-14 stitches evenly on round - read INCREASE TIP-1 = 98-98-98-118-118-118 stitches. Change to circular needle size 4 mm / US 6 and work yoke as described below.

YOKE:
The first round is worked as follows: Work A.2 (= 5-5-5-15-15-15 stitches), A.3 (= 16 stitches), 1 yarn over, work 12 stitches in stockinette stitch (= sleeve), 1 yarn over, work A.3 (= 16 stitches), A.2 (= 5-5-5-15-15-15 stitches), A.3 (= 16 stitches), 1 yarn over, 12 stitches in stockinette stitch (= sleeve), 1 yarn over, A.3 (= 16 stitches). There are now 106-106-106-126-126-126 stitches on the needle.
Continue this pattern onwards; i.e. you increase on the front and back pieces in each side as shown in A.2. On the sleeves you increase in each side with a yarn over on each side of the stitches in stockinette stitch. Increase like this every 2nd round. On the round after an increase round the yarn overs in the diagrams are knitted (to leave holes), and increased stitches are worked into the pattern as shown in A.2, while the yarn overs on the sleeves are knitted twisted (to avoid holes), and the increased stitches are worked in stockinette stitch. REMEMBER THE GAUGE!
When A.2 has been worked 1 time in height there are 250-250-250-270-270-270 stitches on the needle. Continue this pattern onwards; i.e. the pattern is repeated as shown in A.2 and every time you have worked 10 rows in height there is room for 1 more repeat of the lace pattern on the front and back pieces.
When you have increased a total of 24-29-34-34-39-44 times on each side of A.3 there are 290-330-370-390-430-470 stitches on the needle and the piece measures approx. 19-22-26-26-30-33 cm / 7 3/8"-8 5/8"-10 ¼"-10 ¼"-11 ¾"-13" from the cast-on edge and down mid front.
The next round is worked as follows: Work 69-79-89-99-109-119 stitches as before (= back piece), place the next 60-70-80-80-90-100 stitches on 1 thread for sleeve, cast on 6-6-6-8-8-10 new stitches on the needle (= in side under sleeve), work the next 85-95-105-115-125-135 stitches as before (= front piece), place the next 60-70-80-80-90-100 stitches on 1 thread for sleeve, cast on 6-6-6-8-8-10 new stitches on the needle (= in side under sleeve) and work the last 16 stitches as before (= back piece). Cut the strand. Body and sleeves are finished separately. THE PIECE IS NOW MEASURED FROM HERE!

BODY:
= 182-202-222-246-266-290 stitches. Insert 1 marker thread in each side, in the middle of the 6-6-6-8-8-10 stitches cast on under each sleeve. Allow the marker threads to follow your work onwards; they will be used a little later when you increase.
Start the round by one of the marker threads and work the first round as follows: Work 3-3-3-4-4-5 stitches in stockinette stitch, continue A.3 over the next 16 stitches, work A.4A (= 9 stitches), A.4B over the next 30-40-50-60-70-80 stitches (= 3-4-5-6-7-8 repeats of 10 stitches), A.4C (= 14 stitches), continue A.3 over the next 16 stitches, 6-6-6-8-8-10 stitches in stockinette stitch (the marker thread sits in the middle of these 6-6-6-8-8-10 stitches), continue A.3 over the next 16 stitches, work A.4A (= 9 stitches), A.4B over the next 30-40-50-60-70-80 stitches (= 3-4-5-6-7-8 repeats of 10 stitches), work A.4C (= 14 stitches), continue A.3 over the next 16 stitches, and finish with 3-3-3-4-4-5 stitches in stockinette stitch.
Continue this pattern. When the piece measures 4 cm / 1½'' from the division, increase 1 stitch on each side of both marker threads - read INCREASE TIP-2 = 4 stitches increased. Increase like this every 6-6-5-6-5-5 cm / 2 3/8"-2 3/8"-1 7/8"-2 3/8"-1 7/8"-1 7/8" a total of 5 times = 202-222-242-266-286-310 stitches. Continue until the piece measures approx. 35-34-32-34-32-31 cm / 13 ¾"-13 3/8"-12 ½"-13 3/8"-12 ½"-12 1/8" from the division (shorter measurements in the larger sizes due to longer yoke), or to desired length, but make sure to finish after a complete lace pattern in height. Change to circular needle size 3.5 mm / US 4. Work 2 RIDGES – read description above. Change back to circular needle size 4 mm / US 6. Bind off with knit, but make sure that the bind-off edge is not tight. The sweater measures approx. 58-60-62-64-66-68 cm / 22¾''-23 5/8''-24 3/8''-25¼''-26''-26¾'' from the shoulder down.

SLEEVE:
Place the 60-70-80-80-90-100 stitches from the thread on the one side of the piece on short circular needle/double pointed needles size 4 mm / US 6 and knit up 1 stitch in each of the 6-6-6-8-8-10 new stitches cast on in the side under the sleeve = 66-76-86-88-98-110 stitches. Insert a marker thread in the middle of the 6-6-6-8-8-10 new stitches in side under sleeve and allow the marker thread to follow your work onwards; it will be used a little later when decreasing mid under sleeve. Start the round by the marker thread and work stockinette stitch in the round. When the piece measures 2-1-1-1-1-1 cm / ¾"-3/8"-3/8"-3/8"-3/8"-3/8" decrease 2 stitches mid under sleeve – read DECREASE TIP. Decrease like this every 2nd round a total of 1-2-3-3-4-7 times = 64-72-80-82-90-96 stitches. Then decrease every 3½-2½-2-2-1½-1 cm a total of 12-15-18-18-21-23 times = 40-42-44-46-48-50 stitches left on the needles .Continue until the piece measures 46-44-40-40-37-35 cm / 18"-17 ¼"-15 ¾"-15 ¾"-14 ½"-13 ¾" from the division or to desired length (shorter measurements in larger sizes due to wider neck and longer yoke). Change to double pointed needles size 3.5 mm / US 4 and work 2 ridges. Change back to double pointed needles size 4 mm / US 6. Bind off with knit. Make sure the bind-off edge is not tight! The sleeve measures approx. 47-45-41-41-38-36cm / 18 ½"-17 5/8"-16 1/8"-16 1/8"-14 7/8"-14 1/8" from the division. Work the other sleeve in the same way.

This pattern has been corrected.

Updated online: 03.10.2018
A.3 is worked on both sides of A.4 on the body.
Updated online: 30.01.2019
Correction: The yarn overs on the sleeves are worked twisted to avoid holes.

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

symbols = knit
symbols = purl
symbols = between 2 stitches make 1 yarn over
symbols = knit 2 together
symbols = slip 1 stitch as if to knit, knit 1 and pass the slipped stitch over the knitted stitch
symbols = knit 3, pass the first knitted stitch over the last 2 knitted stitches so that it lies around these 2 stitches (= 1 stitch decreased)
symbols = no stitch, skip this square and work the next stitch as shown in diagram
symbols = shows 1 repeat in height and how the lace pattern is placed above one another
diagram
diagram
diagram
diagram

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (30)

country flag Angela Casna wrote:

Anleitung habe ich keinen Durchblick. Bitte um Hilfe. Vielen Dank

26.02.2024 - 14:14

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Frau Casna, dieser Pullover wird von oben nach unten mit verschiedenen Muster/Diagrammen gestrickt; man wird für den Raglan in jeder 2. Runde wie gezeigt in den Diagrammen zunehmen. In dieser Lektion erklärt man, wie man einen Pullover von oben nach unten strickt, es kann vielleicht damit helfen, aber sonnst sagen Sie uns gerne mehr, welches Teil Sie nicht verstehen, so kann man versuchen, Ihnen zu helfen. Danke fü Ihr Verständnis!

26.02.2024 - 15:00

country flag Diane wrote:

Bonjour, je tiens à vous remercier pour votre précieuse aide au début de mon projet, je l’ai (enfin) terminé et il est superbe! Très agréable à tricoter, j’ai juste envie d’en tricoter un autre! Merci beaucoup!

15.09.2021 - 13:44

country flag Diane wrote:

Bonjour, je tricote la grandeur XXL, j’ai fini A2, (38 rangs) et A3 (fini au rang 5), donc j’ai 274 m. Lorsque vous dites après 10 rangs de haut, ajoutez un motif ajouré, où dois-je prendre le modèle (diagramme)et à quelle place je le mets? La séquence est: A2,A3, jeté, m en jersey,jeté,A3,A2,A3,jeté, m en jersey,A3. Merci.

03.08.2021 - 04:22

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Diane, augmentez maintenant comme avant au début et à la fin de A.2 (= 1 jeté), et en même temps, continuez le point fantaisie comme avant en répétant les rangs encadrés avec l'étoile, vous tricoterez plus de motifs ajourés que dans le diagramme mais commencez et terminez de la même façon que cette partie. Bon tricot!

03.08.2021 - 09:24

country flag Diane wrote:

Bonjour, pourXXL, au rang 3 de l’empiècement, est-ce qu’on tricote:A2 (19m), A3 (16 m), 1 jeté, 12 ou 14 m?, 1 jeté, A3 (16m), A2 (19m), A3 (16m), 1 jeté, 12 ou 14m ? , 1 jeté, A3 (16m)? Dois-je augmenter de 2 mailles chaque côté des mailles en jersey, tous les deux rangs? De plus, que fait-on quand on a fini le diagramme A3 (8 rangs) est-ce qu’il faut le recommencer au rang 1, jusqu’au 38 rangs du diagramme A2? Merci!

25.07.2021 - 01:17

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Diane, au 3ème rang de l'empiècement, vous aurez 14 mailles entre les jetés après A.3 et avant A.3 = les 2 jetés du 1er rang. Ainsi, vous aurez toujours 2 mailles en plus après avoir augmenté à chaque nouveau rang sur l'endroit (= manches). Quand A.3 est terminé, reprenez-le au 1er rang effectivement et continuez ainsi. Bon tricot!

26.07.2021 - 08:48

country flag Diane wrote:

Bonjour, une autre question, savez-vous comment je peux être à 132 au lieu de 126 mailles après le premier tour de l’empiètement? J’ai fait A2, A3, 1 jeté, 12 mailles en jersey, 1 jeté, A3, A2, A3, 1 jeté, 12 mailles en jersey, 1 jeté, A3. Au diagramme A2, dois-je toujours faire les jetés au début et à la fin? Merci, je trouve le modèle superbe mais, je commence à penser que je ne suis pas assez compétente pour y arriver!

18.07.2021 - 21:43

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Diane, au 1er rang de A.3 vous faites 1 jeté au milieu pour la petite torsade ajourée, vous devez donc avoir 4 mailles en plus sur les tours avec ce jeté (= A.3 se tricote sur 16 m, mais aux rangs 1 et 5 vous faites 1 jeté, vous aurez donc 17 m aux rangs 1, 2, 5, 6 et 16 m aux rangs 3,4, 7, 8. Vous devez donc avoir 130 m: 118 avant ce premier tour + 2 m augmentées dans chaque A.2 x 2 = 4 m + 2 m augmentées sur chaque manche = 8 m = 118+4+4=126 + 4 jetés de A.3 = 130 m. Bon tricot!

19.07.2021 - 09:15

country flag Diane wrote:

Bonjour, je suis un peu perdue, quels jetés dois-je tricoter torse, les jetés des diagrammes ou les jetés chaque côté des 12 mailles en jersey? Lesquels dois-je tricoter à l’endroit (non torse)? Les corrections apportées sont-elles corrigées sur le version que je viens d’imprimer? Merci beaucoup de votre aide.

18.07.2021 - 21:26

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Diane, au tour suivant les augmentations du raglan, tricoter les jetés des diagrammes à l'endroit (ils forment des trous) et les augmentations figurent dans A.2 et tricoter les augmentations des manches torse à l'endroit (ils ne forment pas de trous). Regardez aussi AUGMENTATIONS-2 (côtés dos & devant). La version imprimee par toi est deja corrigee. Bon tricot!

18.07.2021 - 21:51

country flag Florencia Collavino wrote:

Podrían explicarme en las mangas como son los aumentos? son 12puntos que se aumentan cada dos vueltas? porque no entiendo como llegar a la cantidad de 250 puntos al final de A2. Muchas gracias

16.09.2020 - 23:53

DROPS Design answered:

Hola Florencia, los aumentos se trabajan de la siguiente manera: Los aumentos en el cuerpo están incluidos en el diagrama A.2. Para la manga trabajamos los aumentos antes y después de los puntos de la manga. En total hay 8 aumentos en cada vuelta con aumentos (18 vueltas), por lo que hay 144 puntos + los 106 iniciales = 250 puntos.

20.11.2020 - 23:19

country flag Rhona Baxter wrote:

Thanks for your reply ,but that will give me 110 after my first row on round ,reference my first question . That gives me 110 not 106.

05.12.2019 - 15:46

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Mrs Baxter, yes that's right, A.3 is counted throughout the pattern with only 16 sts (see previous answer), so that you should have 106 sts at the end of 1st row (with only 16 sts in each A.3), but since you worked a total of 4 yarnovers in A.3 for the mock cables, you have then 106+4 yarn overs (=2 yarn over in each of both A.3 - these yarn overs are not included in increases, only to the mock cables) = 110 sts on needle. happy knitting!

05.12.2019 - 15:58

country flag Rhona Baxter wrote:

Thanks for your reply, but on A3 ,first row in the middle shows 2 knit squares with the centre showing the diagram with between 2 stitches make 1 yarn over ,which increases this to 17.

05.12.2019 - 14:52

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Mrs Baxter, oh yes you are right, in A.3 you will have sometimes 17 stitches instead of 16 on the rows where you make the yarn over for the small mock cables (= rows 1 and 5), but the number of stitches is given with 16 sts in A.3 to make it easier. Happy knitting!

05.12.2019 - 15:41

country flag Rhona Baxter wrote:

Hi, I hope you can help, just trying to get started and having a problem . The first round yoke ,I keeping getting 4 more than the 106( Second size ), start with 98 ,work A2 X 2 =4 stitches, A3 X4 times =4 stitches, sleeves x2 times = 4 which gives me 110 stiches,not 106 as pattern . Can you advise.

05.12.2019 - 13:51

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Mrs Baxter, in size M you start with 98 sts and work: A.2 (= 5 sts + 2 inc), A.3 (= 16 sts), YO, K12 (sleeve), YO, A.3 (= 16 sts), A.2 (= 5 sts + 2 inc), A.3 (= 16 sts), YO, K12 (sleeve), YO, A.3 (= 16 sts) = 7+16+1+12+1+16+7+16+1+12+1+16= 106 sts at the end of first round. Happy knitting!

05.12.2019 - 14:24