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  1. Free patterns
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  6. 188
  7. 2

Tulip Garden by DROPS Design

Crochet bag with colored pattern and flowers. The piece is worked in 2 strands DROPS Paris

Keywords: bag, colorwork, floral

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DROPS 188-2
DROPS Design: Pattern no w-713
Yarn group C + C or E
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Measurements:
Circumference: approx. 92 cm/36 1/4".
Height: approx. 46-47 cm/18"-18½".
Materials:
DROPS PARIS from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group C)
250 g color 100, light wash
100 g color 41, mustard
100 g color 39, pistachio
100 g color 11, opal green
100 g color 01, apricot
100 g color 06, shocking pink
100 g color 07, heather
100 g color 14, strong yellow
100 g color 12, red

If the bag is worked in just one color, you will need 650 g Paris.

The piece can also be crocheted with yarn from:
"Alternative yarn (Yarn group C)" – see link below.

DROPS CROCHET HOOK SIZE 5.5 MM/I/9 – or the size needed to get 13 double crochets and 6 rows with 2 strands on 10 cm / 4'' in width and 10 cm / 4'' in height.

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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100% Cotton 		from 1.30 $ /50g
DROPS Paris uni colour DROPS Paris uni colour 1.45 $ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd 		Order
DROPS Paris recycled denim DROPS Paris recycled denim 1.30 $ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd 		Order
needles DROPS Needles & Hooks
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 18.20$. Read more.

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Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
INFORMATION FOR THE PATTERN:

PATTERN:
See diagrams A.1, A.2 and A.3. The diagrams show the colors in the pattern. 1 square = 1 double crochet.

DOUBLE STRAND TIP:
Use the strand from both the inside and outside of the ball. When changing to a new ball, it is best to change 1 strand at a time, so the strand fastenings are not too thick.

COLOR PATTERN:
When changing color, work as follows: Work the last double crochet with the old color, but wait with the last pull through, change to the next color and work the last pull through with the new color, then work the next double crochet. When working with 2 colors, lay the strand of the color you are not working with over the stitches from the previous round and work around the strand so that it is hidden and also brought forward.

CROCHET INFO:
The first double crochet on the round is replaced by 3 chain stitches. The round finishes with 1 slip stitch in the 3rd chain stitch at the beginning of the round. Turn the piece after every round and continue working from the other side.

DECREASE TIP:
Decrease 1 double crochet by working the next 2 double crochets together as follows: Work 1 double crochet, but wait with the last pull through (= 2 loops on the hook). Work the next double crochet, but on the last pull through, pull the strand through all 3 loops on the hook.

LOBSTER STITCH:
Worked as single crochets, but backwards; i.e. work single crochets from left to right.
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BAG:
The bag is worked with 2 strands of each color - read DOUBLE STRAND TIP. The piece is worked in the round, but is turned after each round so that every other round is worked from the right side and the wrong side.

Work 5 chain stitches with 2 strands opal green and hook size 5.5 mm/I/9. Form them into a ring with 1 slip stitch in the first chain stitch. Then work according to diagram A.1 (work 12 repeats of A.1 in width) - read COLOR PATTERN.
In other words, work as follows:
ROUND 1: Work 12 double crochets around the ring - read CROCHET INFO.
ROUND 2: Work 2 double crochets in each double crochet = 24 double crochets.
ROUND 3: Work * 1 double crochet in the first double crochet, 2 double crochets in the next double crochet *, repeat from *-* to end of round = 36 double crochets.
ROUND 4: Work * 1 double crochet in each of the first 2 double crochets, 2 double crochets in the next double crochet *, repeat from *-* to end of round = 48 double crochets.
REMEMBER THE CROCHET GAUGE!
ROUNDS 5-9: Continue with increases and pattern as before, i.e. on each round work 1 more double crochet between each increase = 108 double crochets.
ROUND 10: This round is the last round of increases (= 120 double crochets) and you work flowers. The flowers have different colors, so you need to use 2 balls of each color to avoid cutting strands on the round.
The order of colors for the flowers are as follows:
Color 1. 06, shocking pink
Color 2. 07, heather
Color 3. 41, mustard
Color 4. 01, apricot
Color 5. 12, red
Color 6. 14, strong yellow
Color 7. 06, shocking pink
Color 8. 07, heather
Color 9. 41, mustard
Color 10. 01, apricot
Color 11. 12, red
Color 12. 14, strong yellow

ROUND 11: Cut and fasten the background color (100, light wash). This is done because this round starts 3 double crochets earlier and the new start will be between 2 flowers. Work double crochets and pattern according to diagram A.2 to end of round.
ROUNDS 12-18: Continue with double crochets and diagram A.2.
ROUND 19: Continue with double crochets and diagram A.2, but on this round work the first 2 double crochets in each repeat together - i.e. decrease 12 double crochets on this round - read DECREASE TIP = 108 double crochets.
ROUNDS 20-27: Work double crochets and pattern according to diagram A.3 (there is 1 round left in A.3).
ROUND 28. Work the last round in A.3 with single crochets, cut and fasten the strands.

EDGE:
Work an edge at the top of the bag with 2 strands mustard as follows: Fasten the strands with 1 single crochet in the first stitch, work 1 chain stitch then work LOBSTER STITCH - see description above, to end of round. Finish with 1 slip stitch in the first chain stitch. Cut and fasten the strands.

HANDLE:
Cut 4 strands of each color of 120 cm = 36 strands. Lay the strands together and tie a loose knot, leave approx. 12 cm / 4¾'' after the knot. Divide the strands into 3 bunches with 12 stands in each bunch. Plait the 3 bunches together until the plait measures approx. 68 cm (do not plait too tightly). Divide the strand ends in 2 bunches. Thread the 2 halves through the bag with 1 double crochet between them, in the second round from the finishing edge. Tie the strands together on the front of the bag. Pick up the knot in the other end of the plait and fasten to the bag in the same way on the opposite side (see photo). Make another plait in the same way and fasten on the other side of the bag as described above. If you wish, you can make small plaits in the ends of the handles on the outside of the bag.

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

symbols = opal green
symbols = pistachio
symbols = light wash
symbols = see colour order in text - each repeat has a different colour
symbols = mustard
symbols = heather
symbols = shocking pink
diagram

Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 188-2) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

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Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

These step-by-step tutorials might also help you:

We have also step-by-step guides for different techniques which you'll find here.

And a very handy technical dictionary!
1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?
2) What are the yarn groups?
3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?
4) How do I use the yarn converter?
5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?
6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?
7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?
8) What is a repeat?
9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?
10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?
11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?
12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?
13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?
14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?
15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?
16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?
17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?
18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?
19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?
20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?
21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?
22) Where on the garment is the length measured?
23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (15)

country flag Gallienne wrote:

Bonjour, je ne comprends pas comment le diagramme peut faire correspondre des mailles en augmentation, je n’arrive pas à faire coïncider celui-ci, c’est à dire le dessin du diagramme avec les mailles en rond et en augmentation. Cela ne correspond pas pour former le dessin des fleurs… Merci pour votre réponse attendue..,

24.08.2022 - 21:41

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Galienne, vous devez répéter 12 fois A.1 en largeur, autrement dit: au 1er rang: 12 x 1 bride dans la bride suivante (= 12 b.); au 2ème rang 12 x (2 brides dans chaque b ) = on a bien 2 mailles dans A.1; au 3ème rang 12 x (1 b dans la b suivante, 2 b dans la suivante = 3 brides dans A.1); et ainsi de suite. Vous crochetez les mailles de A.1 dans la couleur indiquée par le diagramme tout en suivant les indications écrites pour les augmentations. Les fleurs ne seront formées que dans A.2, dans A.1 vous faites le fond puis les tiges et les feuilles. Bon crochet!

25.08.2022 kl. 09:17

country flag Andrea Tummarello wrote:

Ich habe anstatt der 200gr. Light wash die Farbe Spray Blue genommen - leider haben bei mir die 200 gr auch nicht ausgereicht. Bestellt am besten gleich 300 gr damit euch der Garn während dem Häkeln nicht ausgeht :-)

08.03.2021 - 12:06

country flag Dea wrote:

Buongiorno, 200 gr di colore 100 light wash non bastan nemmeno per finire la borsa. Almeno a me non sono bastati.

26.07.2019 - 14:33

DROPS Design answered:

Buongiorno Dea. Trasmetteremo la sua segnalazione alla casa madre. Buon lavoro!

26.07.2019 kl. 16:53

country flag Dea wrote:

Vi chiedo comunque di inoltrare a Drops la richiesta di un video per il diagramma A1. Seguendo le indicazioni fedelmente non si può ottenere il disegno come nelle foto sopra. Grazie.

25.07.2019 - 08:16

DROPS Design answered:

Buongiorno Dea, inoltriamo la sua segnalazione alla casa madre. Buon lavoro!

25.07.2019 kl. 15:18

country flag Dea wrote:

Una domanda: visto che il diagramma A1 bisogna lavorarlo avanti e indietro, se si lavora dal DL da che parte bisogna leggerlo? Da dx verso sx? Quindi il primo in basso (giro 1 = 12 maglie alte) si legge da dx verso sx? Questo è importante per capire come prosegue il lavoro, comunque ho tentato più volte, ma non mi viene come il lavoro nella foto.

23.07.2019 - 20:56

DROPS Design answered:

Buongiorno Dea. Il diagramma A1 viene letto da destra verso sinistra sul diritto del lavoro e da sinistra verso destra sul rovescio del lavoro. Viene letto dal basso verso l’alto. Quindi sulla prima riga avrà 12 ripetizioni di 1 maglia alta l’una; alla seconda riga avrà 2 maglie alte in ogni ripetizione e così via. Buon lavoro!

24.07.2019 kl. 06:36

country flag Dea wrote:

Non è possibile avere un video che spiega come realizzare il diagramma A1? Putroppo non è semplice capire gli aumenti e come comportarsi con la direzione del lavoro sullo schema. Grazie.

23.07.2019 - 20:15

country flag Elena wrote:

Avevo già provato a chiedere senza risposta. Qual è il senso del lavoro avanti e indietro visto che è in tondo? Grazie.

15.05.2019 - 15:08

DROPS Design answered:

Buongiorno Elena. Viene fatto per avere il risultato che si può vedere nell'ultima fotografia, quella che inquadra meglio i fiori. Se però preferisce e si trova meglio, può lavorare in tondo. Buon lavoro!

15.05.2019 kl. 15:27

country flag Sylvie wrote:

Bonjour, Merci pour votre aide. J'ai une autre question : je suis arrivée au rang 2 du schéma A2 et je trouve que l'ouvrage fait beaucoup de "vagues", j'ai peur qu'il ne soit pas correct au niveau de la forme ? Est-ce que cette impression s'estompe au fur et à mesure des rangs qui suivent ? Merci par avance et bonne journée. Sylvie

01.04.2019 - 13:12

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Sylvie, quand on crochète A.1, on forme le fond du sac = une sorte de disque plat (= jusqu'au tour 10 inclus) puis on va crocheter A.2 sans augmenter pour former les côtés montants du sac. Pensez à bien conserver la bonne et surtout la même tension pour que l'ouvrage conserve la bonne forme. Bon crochet!

01.04.2019 kl. 15:32

country flag Sylvie Nigro wrote:

Bonjour, existe-t-il un schéma complet du sac ? Si on tourne l'ouvrage à chaque changement de rang, ne risque-t-on pas de voir les fils que l'on fait suivre pour faire les dessins au jaquard ? Merci

15.03.2019 - 10:59

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Nigro, il n'y a pas besoin de diagramme complet, suivez les diagrammes et répétez-les comme indiqué - plus d'infos sur les diagrammes ici, en bas de page pour le jacquard. Veillez bien à ce que les fils soient côté envers pour qu'ils ne se voient pas, que vous travailliez sur l'endroit ou sur l'envers. Bon crochet!

15.03.2019 kl. 12:45

country flag Carolyn wrote:

Sorry..regarding the previous question, once we turn the work for the second (or even numbered) round, do we then read the chart from left to right?

22.08.2018 - 02:05

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