Carry Me Home by DROPS Design

Crocheted bag with squares in various colors. The piece is worked in DROPS Paris.

Keywords: bag, granny square, patchwork, square

DROPS 187-35
DROPS Design: Pattern no w-718
Yarn group C or A + A
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Measurements: approx. 45 x 34 cm / 17 3/4" x 13½''
Materials:
DROPS PARIS from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group C)
100 g color 17, off white
50 g color 41, mustard
50 g color 38, raspberry
50 g color 39, pistachio
50 g color 25, moss green
50 g color 37, rusty red
100 g color 30, gray blue

The piece can also be crocheted with yarn from:
"Alternative yarn (Yarn group C)" – see link below.

DROPS CROCHET HOOK SIZE 4.5 MM/US 7 – or the size needed to get 16 double crochets on 10 cm / 4'' in width.

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Paris
100% Cotton

from 1.60 $ /50g

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	DROPS Paris uni colour	1.85 $ /50g Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd	Order
	DROPS Paris recycled denim	1.60 $ /50g Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd	Order

DROPS Needles & Hooks

You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 14.40$. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.

INFORMATION FOR THE PATTERN:

PATTERN:
Crochet according to diagram A.1. A.2 and A.3 show how the squares are worked together.

COLOR COMBINATIONS:
SQUARE 1:
CHAIN-STITCH RING + ROUND 1: moss green
ROUND 2: Pistachio
ROUND 3: Off white
ROUND 4: Mustard
ROUND 5: Raspberry
ROUND 6: Rusty red
ROUND 7: Gray blue

SQUARE 2:
CHAIN-STITCH RING + ROUND 1: Rusty red
ROUND 2: Mustard
ROUND 3: Raspberry
ROUND 4. : Off white
ROUND 5: moss green
ROUND 6: Pistachio
ROUND 7: Gray blue

SQUARE 3:
CHAIN-STITCH RING + ROUND 1: Mustard
ROUND 2: Raspberry
ROUND 3: Pistachio
ROUND 4: Rusty red
ROUND 5: moss green
ROUND 6: Off white
ROUND 7: Gray blue

SQUARE 4:
CHAIN-STITCH RING + ROUND 1: Pistachio
ROUND 2: Off white
ROUND 3: Mustard
ROUND 4: moss green
ROUND 5: Rusty red
ROUND 6: Raspberry
ROUND 7: Gray blue

SQUARE 5:
CHAIN-STITCH RING + ROUND 1: Raspberry
ROUND 2: Rusty red
ROUND 3: moss green
ROUND 4: Pistachio
ROUND 5: Off white
ROUND 6: Mustard
ROUND 7: Gray blue

COLOR CHANGE:
To get a neat transition when changing colors, work the last slip stitch of the round with the new color as follows: Insert the hook in the last chain stitch from the beginning of the round, pick up the new strand, make a yarn over with the new strand and pull it through the stitch on the hook.
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BAG:
The bag is made up of 10 squares with different color combinations.
Work 2 squares of each COLOR COMBINATION – see description above. Work according to A.1 and start as follows:
Work 7 chain stitches with hook size 4.5 mm/US 7 and Paris and form them into a ring with 1 slip stitch in the first chain stitch. Continue according to diagram A.1, changing color on each round – read COLOR CHANGE. NOTE! Round 6 does not start in the corner of the square, but in the middle of one of the sides of the square.

ASSEMBLY:
The bag is worked together with gray blue and hook size 4.5 mm/US 7. Lay out 8 of the squares (squares in color combinations 1 to 4) as shown in A.2. Start on the right side and lay squares 1 and 2 wrong side to wrong side. Start in the chain-space in the corner and work 2 single crochets around both chain-spaces. Continue with 1 single crochet in each single crochet on both squares, finish with 2 single crochets around both chain-spaces in the corner. Lay square 3 with wrong side towards square 2, work 2 single crochets around both chain-spaces in the corner, continue with 1 single crochet in each single crochet from both squares and finish with 2 single crochets around both chain-spaces in the corner. Continue like this until the 8 squares have been worked together. Then work square 4 at the end of A.2 together with square 1 at the beginning of A.2, so that the bag is joined in both sides, finish with a slip stitch in the first single crochet worked on squares 1 and 2. Cut and fasten the strand.

Now work the last two squares to the bottom of the bag as shown in A.3. Start at the bottom right corner, lay square 5 with wrong side to square 1, work 2 single crochets around both chain-spaces, work 1 single crochet in each single crochet from both squares, finish with 2 single crochets around both chain-spaces in the corner. Lay the next side of square 5 with wrong side towards square 3, work 2 single crochets around both chain-spaces, work 1 single crochet in each single crochet from both squares, finish with 2 single crochets around both chain-spaces in the corner. Continue until the last 2 squares have been worked to the bottom of the bag and finish with 1 slip stitch in the first single crochet. Cut and fasten the strand.

CROCHET EDGE:
Crochet an edge around the opening on the bag. Work with off white and hook size 4.5 mm/US 7 as follows:
Work 1 single crochet in the join between the 2 middle squares on the bag (squares 2 and 4 in A.3), *skip 2 single crochets from square 4, work 5 double crochets in the next single crochet, skip 2 single crochets, work 1 single crochet in the next single crochet *, repeat from *-* 3 more times, work 1 single crochet + 3 chain stitches + 1 single crochet around the chain-space, * work 1 single crochet in the next single crochet, skip 2 single crochets, work 5 double crochets in the next single crochet, skip 2 single crochets *, repeat from *-* 3 more times and finish with 1 single crochet in the join between the next 2 squares. Continue like this around the whole opening on the bag, finish with 1 slip stitch in the first single crochet.

TWISTED CORD:
Cut 8 strands off-white of 4 metres in length. Twist them together until they begin to resist, fold the cord double and it will continue to twist. Tie a knot in each end. Fasten the cord through the chain-space from the crochet edge on the top of one of the squares and the other end in the top of another square on the same side of the bag. Leave approx. 8 cm / 3 1/8'' as a fringe after the knots. Repeat on the other side of the bag.

This pattern has been corrected. Click here to see the correction/s.

Updated online: 06.06.2019
New yarn amount: DROPS PARIS from Garnstudio 100 g color 30, grey blue

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

	= work 7 chain stitches and form them into a ring with 1 slip stitch in the first chain stitch. The round starts and ends at the black spot on the circle
	= the round begins with 3 chain stitches and finishes with 1 slip stitch in the 3rd chain stitch at the beginning of the round
	= double crochet around chain-stitch ring/chain-space
	= double crochet in double crochet
	= double crochet between 2 double crochets
	= work 4 chain stitches
	= work 2 treble crochets in the next double crochet, but wait with the last pull through, work 1 treble crochet in the next double crochet, and then, on the last pull through, pull the strand through all 5 loops on the hook
	= work 1 treble crochet in the next double crochet, but wait with the last pull through, work 2 treble crochets in the next double crochet, but wait with the last pull through, work 1 treble crochet in the next double crochet and then, when working the last pull through, pull the strand through all 5 loops on the hook
	= chain stitch
	= single crochet in stitch
	= single crochet around chain-space
	= slip stitch
	= start this round here, not where the previous round finished.

Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 187-35) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

These step-by-step tutorials might also help you:

We have also step-by-step guides for different techniques which you'll find here.

And a very handy technical dictionary!

Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ).

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

2) What are the yarn groups?

3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

4) How do I use the yarn converter?

5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

8) What is a repeat?

9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

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