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  1. Free patterns
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Butterfly Queen by DROPS Design

Crocheted jacket worked in a square with lace pattern. Size: S - XXXL Piece is crocheted in DROPS Flora.

Keywords: 3/4 sleeves, asymmetric, circle, circle jacket, jacket, lace, shawl collar, short sleeves, square

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DROPS 186-11
DROPS design: Pattern fl-033
Yarn group A
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Size: S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL
Materials:
DROPS FLORA from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group A)
250-250-300-300-350-400 g color no 20, peach pink

Piece can also be crocheted with yarn from:
“Alternative yarn (yarn group A)” - see link below.

DROPS CROCHET HOOK size 3.5 mm/E/4 - or size needed to get 22 double crochets x 12 rows = 10 cm / 4'' in width and 10 cm / 4'' vertically.

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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65% Wool, 35% Alpaca 		from 3.30 $ /50g
DROPS Flora uni colour DROPS Flora uni colour 3.30 $ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd 		Order
DROPS Flora mix DROPS Flora mix 3.45 $ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd 		Order
needles DROPS Needles & Hooks
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 16.50$. Read more.

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Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
INFORMATION FOR PATTERN:

PATTERN:
See diagrams A.1 to A.4.

CROCHET INFO (applies A.4):
Replace first single crochet at beginning of row with 1 chain stitch.
Replace first double treble crochet at beginning of row with 5 chain stitches.

DECREASE TIP (applies to mid under sleeve):
Work 5 chain stitches, skip 1 single crochet + 1 chain space, work 1 single crochet around next chain space + 1 chain space (= 1 repetition decreased), continue pattern as before until 1 chain space remains + 1 single crochet on previous row, skip these stitches and finish with 1 treble crochet in first chain stitch at beginning of previous row (= 1 repetition decreased).
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JACKET:
Worked in the round from mid back on back and outwards as a square, then work back and forth on front pieces. Work sleeves back and forth from body, then sew them together under sleeve.

Work 4 chain stitches on hook size 3.5 mm/E/4 with Flora and form a ring with 1 slip stitch in first chain stitch. Then work pattern in the round according to diagram A.1b 4 times in total on round - diagram A.1a shows how rounds begin and end and is worked in addition to A.1b. REMEMBER THE CROCHET GAUGE! When entire diagram A.1a and A.1b is cut the tread, and begin next round around chain space between last treble group worked and fasten thread with 1 slip stitch in this chain space.
Now work in the round according to diagram A.2 as follows: * Work A.2b, repeat A.2c 6 times in total in width, A.2d *, repeat from *-* 4 times in total on round – diagram A.2a shows how rounds begin and end and are worked in addition to A.2b/c/d. When entire diagram A.2a and A.2b have been worked, square measures approx. 36 x 36 cm / 14 1/4" x 14 1/4''. There are now 4 corner chain spaces (1 double crochet + 6 chain stitches + 1 double crochet) and 14 chain spaces along each of the sides on square. READ THE REST OF BODY BEFORE CONTINUING!

Continue to work as follows: * Work A.3b around corner space, repeat A.3c until 1 chain space remains before corner, work A.3d around next chain space *, repeat from *-* 4 times in total on round – diagram A.3a shows how rounds begin and end and are worked in addition to A.3b/c/d.
AT THE SAME TIME when piece measures approx. 36-38-40-42-44-46 cm / 14¼''-15''-15¾''-16½''-17¼''-18'' x 36-38-40-42-44-46 cm / 14¼''-15''-15¾''-16½''-17¼''-18'' work armholes as follows: Work A.3 as before until first corner, work around chain space as before. Now work chain stitches until middle of next side (i.e. in the middle between first and second corner) as follows: Work 1 chain stitch for every chain stitch/single crochet skipped. Then work pattern as before until the middle between 3rd and 4th corner. Now work chain stitches until 4th corner as follows: Work 1 chain stitch for every chain stitch/single crochet skipped, work around chain space in corner and the rest of round as before. On next round work A.3 as before over all stitches again (i.e. adjust pattern over armholes so that round is correct).
Continue A.3 in the round (repeat the 9 rounds vertically) until square measures 68-70-72-74-76-78 cm / 26¾''-27½''-28 3/8''-29 1/8''-30''-30¾'' x 68-70-72-74-76-78 cm / 26¾''-27½''-28 3/8''-29 1/8''-30''-30¾'' (i.e. approx. 16 cm / 6 1/4'' from armhole in all sizes) – adjust to finish after a round with treble groups. Cut the yarn and insert 1 marker in piece (between first and second corner).

FRONT PIECE:
Now work back and forth between first and second corner. NOTE! Work front pieces without increases. Read CROCHET INFO! Work A.4a around corner, repeat A.4b until 1 chain space remains before corner, work A.4c around this chain space and around corner. Continue pattern as shown in diagram and repeat A.4 vertically until row with treble groups has been worked 2 times in total vertically, then repeat only rows with chain spaces until piece measures approx. 19-20-21-22-23-24 cm / 7½''-8''-8¼''-8¾''-9''-9½'' from marker, then work row with treble groups 1 time in all sizes. Piece now measures 21-22-23-24-25-26 cm / 8¼''-8¾''-9''-9½''-9¾''-10¼'' from marker. Fasten off. Work the same way on the other side (i.e. work back and forth between third and fourth corner).

SLEEVE:
Work sleeve directly out from armhole on body. Work back and forth, top down and sew together when finished. Begin mid under sleeve and work as follows: Remember CROCHET INFO! Work A.4a around first chain space, repeat A.4b 15-16-17-18-19-20 times in total in width (adjust to distribute A.4b evenly along armhole, i.e. either 2 chain spaces must be worked around same chain space or skip 1 chain space), work A.4c around the last 2 chain spaces. Continue A.4 back and forth – AT THE SAME TIME when piece measures 4 cm / 1½'' (adjust to work next row with chain stitches/single crochets) decrease 1 repetition in each side – read DECREASE TIP. Decrease like this approx. every 8-8-8-6-6-6 cm / 3"-3"-3"-2½"-2½"-2½'' 3-3-3-4-4-4 times in total = 12-13-14-15-16-17 chain spaces of 6 stitches after last decrease. Continue until piece measures approx. 28 cm / 11'' in all sizes - finish after a row with chain spaces. Fasten off. Work the other sleeve the same way in the other side of piece.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew the seems under the sleeves, sew in the outermost stitches and make sure that the seam does not tighten the piece.

This pattern has been corrected. .

Updated online: 27.06.2018
Diagram A.1b has been corrected. A.2c is repeated 6 times (previously 7). There are 14 chains along each side of the square.
Updated online: 10.02.2020
The last icon was missing, (-) = 1 chain stitch. It is used in chart A.4 (--- = 3 chain stitches).

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

symbols = single crochet in stitch
symbols = single crochet around chain space
symbols = 3 chain stitches
symbols = 4 chain stitches
symbols = 6 chain stitches
symbols = 5 chain stitches
symbols = 8 chain stitches
symbols = 14 chain stitches
symbols = 8 chain stitches, 1 slip stitch in treble crochet, 18 chain stitches, 1 slip stitch in treble crochet, 8 chain stitches
symbols = double crochet around chain space
symbols = DOUBLE GROUP: Work as follows around chain space: 3 double crochets, 4 chain stitches, 3 double crochets.
symbols = 2 DOUBLE CROCHETS WORKED TOGETHER: Work 2 double crochets around chain stitch ring but wait with last yarn over and pull through on both these double crochets, make a yarn over and pull yarn over all 3 loops on hook
symbols = treble crochet around chain space
symbols = round begins with 3 chain stitches and finishes with 1 slip stitch in 3rd chain stitch at beginning of round
symbols = round begins with 3 chain stitches and finishes with 1 slip stitch in 3rd chain stitch at beginning of round, then work slip stitches until first chain space
symbols = round begins with 1 chain stitch and finishes with 1 slip stitch in 1st chain stitch at beginning of round, then work slip stitches until first chain space
symbols = round begins with 4 chain stitches and finishes with 1 slip stitch in 4th chain stitch at beginning of round Fasten off. Begin next round around chain space between the last double group worked - fasten yarn with 1 slip stitch in chain space
symbols = 4 chain stitches, form a ring with 1 slip stitch in first chain stitch - see point on circle, round begins and ends here
symbols = 7 chain stitches
symbols = 14 chain stitches
symbols = 2 chain stitches, 1 single crochet around 18-chain space, 2 chain stitches
symbols = 8 chain stitches, 1 half double crochet in first chain stitch
symbols = treble crochet in double crochet
symbols = double treble crochet around chain stitch/chain space
symbols = this round has already been worked, begin on next round!
symbols = slip stitch in space arrow points to
symbols = shows where round continues
symbols = 1 chain stitch
diagram
diagram
diagram
diagram

Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 186-11) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

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Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

These step-by-step tutorials might also help you:

We have also step-by-step guides for different techniques which you'll find here.

And a very handy technical dictionary!
1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?
2) What are the yarn groups?
3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?
4) How do I use the yarn converter?
5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?
6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?
7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?
8) What is a repeat?
9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?
10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?
11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?
12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?
13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?
14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?
15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?
16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?
17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?
18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?
19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?
20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?
21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?
22) Where on the garment is the length measured?
23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (84)

country flag Ann Gentleman wrote:

I really want to make the Butterfly Queen jacket but despite trying to understand the schematic drawing I cannot see how to start and finish each row. This needs its own video, so if you can't supply this, please tell me if you know of anyone who has succeeded with this pattern, apart from the scientific person who devised the chart. I'm really upset that this is so difficult and I'm not a beginner!

23.08.2023 - 14:17

DROPS Design answered:

Dar Mrs Gentleman, the beginning of rounds are explained in the diagram, for ex. work A.1 a (see matching symbol for each round), beginning with 4 chains on first round, and on 2nd round (2 different symbols) and finishing with 1slip stitch in the 3th chain from beg of round. You can also find some finished projects on Ravelry. Happy crocheting!

23.08.2023 kl. 16:38

country flag Miranda wrote:

Ich habe die Jacke gestern das erste Mal ausgeführt und viel Lob kassiert. Danke für das schöne Muster wenn es auch recht kompliziert ist.

21.08.2023 - 09:58

country flag Daniela wrote:

In lingua italiana c'è un errore nella legenda, il ventaglietto nero non è "4 cat., 3 m.alte" ma "3 maglie alte,4 cat.,3 m.alte” come nelle altre lingue

29.06.2023 - 13:11

DROPS Design answered:

Buonasera Daniela, abbiamo corretto la legenda. Buon lavoro!

06.07.2023 kl. 16:52

country flag Connie Bach wrote:

Desuden er der et tegn ^ som jeg ingen forklaring finder på ! Det tegn < er jo ikke det samme

11.04.2023 - 15:49

country flag Connie Bach wrote:

Nederst i opskriften ? Små videoer der er urelevante i denne opskrift ! Jeg finder intet der fortæller om hvordan man skal gøre Intet på YouTube feks. ?

11.04.2023 - 15:46

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Connie, < tegnet betyder 3 luftmasker uanset hvordan det vender. Vi skriver en video på ønskelisten og håber at vi kan få den lagt ud så hurtigt som muligt :)

13.04.2023 kl. 12:00

country flag Connie Bach wrote:

Mega svær at følge den her opskrift ! Findes der dog ikke en video et sted, hvor man lige kan få lidt hjælp ? Diagrammerne er jo totalt uforståelige og runderne virker forkerte !

11.04.2023 - 13:03

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Connie, jo vi har en video, du finder den nederst i opskriften, her kan du helt sikkert se hvordan det skal se ud :)

11.04.2023 kl. 15:33

country flag Irene wrote:

Just to let you know, I can confirm that I made a mistake when working the pattern and now understand where I have gone wrong. There is no need for you to respond but I thank you for all the lovely patterns produced. Many thanks

12.02.2023 - 18:33

country flag Irene wrote:

Hello, I have completed the butterfly up to the end of diagram 2 A2b/c/d, but my work is not lying flat when I lay it on a flat surface, it is forming a dish shape. /will this correct itself as I proceed or have I done something wrong please.

12.02.2023 - 17:33

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Irene, if the center is higher or risen compared to the rest of the garment when laying flat, then there is an issue with gauge; the center was worked more tightly than the rest of the garment. You could try to correct this by blocking the garment (wet it slightly, and let it dry and block it). Happy crocheting!

13.02.2023 kl. 00:27

country flag Irene wrote:

Hello, I have completed the butterfly up to the end of diagram 2 A2b/c/d, but my work is not lying flat when I lay it on a flat surface, it is forming a dish shape. /will this correct itself as I proceed or have I done something wrong please.

12.02.2023 - 17:31

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Irene, if the center is higher or risen compared to the rest of the garment when laying flat, then there is an issue with gauge; the center was worked more tightly than the rest of the garment. You could try to correct this by blocking the garment (wet it slightly, and let it dry and block it). Happy crocheting!

13.02.2023 kl. 00:27

country flag Alice Hasseriis wrote:

Da jeg desværre ikke kan følge diagrammet 1b til Butterfly Queen længere end til omgangen der har 17 luftmasker i de 4 hjørner. Hvor fortsætter jeg der fra?? Og hvordan?. Vil være meget glad for en præcis tegning af forløbet af omgangene. Vores datter vil blive meget glad, hvis det lykkes mig at fuldføre opgaven! Mvh Alice

04.12.2022 - 20:27

DROPS Design answered:

Hei Alice. Litt usikker på hva du mener med 17 luftmasker da diagrammet A.1b slutter når det er 8 luftmaskebuer mellom hvert hjørne. Design avd har dessverre ikke mulighet til å lage diagrammer med beskrivelse av hver enklet maske som hekles. Men skriv en mer nøyaktig beskrivelse hvor du er i oppskriften / i diagrammet og hvilken str. hekler du etter, så skal vi hjepe deg så godt vi kan. mvh DROPS Design

05.12.2022 kl. 14:01

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© 1982-2023 DROPS Design A/S We reserve all rights. This document, including all its sub-sections, has copyrights.
What can you do with our patterns? You can share DROPS patterns online, using the pattern original picture, materials, name and number. But you are NOT ALLOWED to reproduce the complete pattern digitally in any way. Yarn stores are welcome to use the DROPS pattern database to promote the sale of our assortment. You can print out our patterns, make as many copies as you’d like. The only thing we ask is that you don't make any changes / additions to the original printed document. And that the patterns according to the DROPS philosophy are given out to the consumers for free. Editorials that wish to publish our patterns in printed books or magazines can contact us for more information. The sale of garments based on DROPS patterns is permitted as long as they are sold as single items or per order. Further commercial use of the patterns is not permitted. It has to be clearly stated that the garment is made based on a design from DROPS DESIGN. The use of clothing labels of which DROPS DESIGN forms part is conditioned by the inclusion of the following text: “A DROPS DESIGN made by …..”. The use of DROPS photos for marketing purposes/sales is only permitted in connection with the use/sale of DROPS products. The photos may not be cut or edited and the logo should be clearly visible.
We reserve the right to withdraw the permission for use of our patterns at any time, notwithstanding the reason.