DROPS / 186 / 11

Butterfly Queen by DROPS Design

Crocheted jacket worked in a square with lace pattern. Size: S - XXXL Piece is crocheted in DROPS Flora.

DROPS design: Pattern fl-033
Yarn group A
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Size: S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL
Materials:
DROPS FLORA from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group A)
250-250-300-300-350-400 g color no 20, peach pink

Piece can also be crocheted with yarn from:
“Alternative yarn (yarn group A)” - see link below.

DROPS CROCHET HOOK size 3.5 mm/E/4 - or size needed to get 22 double crochets x 12 rows = 10 cm / 4'' in width and 10 cm / 4'' vertically.

Have you knitted/crocheted this or any other of our designs? Tag your pictures in social media with #dropsdesign so we can see them!

Want to use a different yarn? Try our yarn converter!
Not sure which size you should choose? Then it might help you to know that the model in the picture is approx. 5 ft 7 in and uses size S or M. If you are making a sweater, cardigan, dress or similar garment, you will find a graphic with the measurements of the finished garment (in cm) at the bottom of the pattern.

65% Wool, 35% Alpaca
from 3.90 $ /50g
DROPS Flora uni colour DROPS Flora uni colour 3.90 $ /50g
Purple Sheep Yarns
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DROPS Flora mix DROPS Flora mix 4.10 $ /50g
Purple Sheep Yarns
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DROPS Needles & Hooks
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 19.50$. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
INFORMATION FOR PATTERN:

PATTERN:
See diagrams A.1 to A.4.

CROCHET INFO (applies A.4):
Replace first single crochet at beginning of row with 1 chain stitch.
Replace first double treble crochet at beginning of row with 5 chain stitches.

DECREASE TIP (applies to mid under sleeve):
Work 5 chain stitches, skip 1 single crochet + 1 chain space, work 1 single crochet around next chain space + 1 chain space (= 1 repetition decreased), continue pattern as before until 1 chain space remains + 1 single crochet on previous row, skip these stitches and finish with 1 treble crochet in first chain stitch at beginning of previous row (= 1 repetition decreased).
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JACKET:
Worked in the round from mid back on back and outwards as a square, then work back and forth on front pieces. Work sleeves back and forth from body, then sew them together under sleeve.

Work 4 chain stitches on hook size 3.5 mm/E/4 with Flora and form a ring with 1 slip stitch in first chain stitch. Then work pattern in the round according to diagram A.1b 4 times in total on round - diagram A.1a shows how rounds begin and end and is worked in addition to A.1b. REMEMBER THE CROCHET GAUGE! When entire diagram A.1a and A.1b is cut the tread, and begin next round around chain space between last treble group worked and fasten thread with 1 slip stitch in this chain space.
Now work in the round according to diagram A.2 as follows: * Work A.2b, repeat A.2c 6 times in total in width, A.2d *, repeat from *-* 4 times in total on round – diagram A.2a shows how rounds begin and end and are worked in addition to A.2b/c/d. When entire diagram A.2a and A.2b have been worked, square measures approx. 36 x 36 cm / 14 1/4" x 14 1/4''. There are now 4 corner chain spaces (1 double crochet + 6 chain stitches + 1 double crochet) and 14 chain spaces along each of the sides on square. READ THE REST OF BODY BEFORE CONTINUING!

Continue to work as follows: * Work A.3b around corner space, repeat A.3c until 1 chain space remains before corner, work A.3d around next chain space *, repeat from *-* 4 times in total on round – diagram A.3a shows how rounds begin and end and are worked in addition to A.3b/c/d.
AT THE SAME TIME when piece measures approx. 36-38-40-42-44-46 cm / 14¼''-15''-15¾''-16½''-17¼''-18'' x 36-38-40-42-44-46 cm / 14¼''-15''-15¾''-16½''-17¼''-18'' work armholes as follows: Work A.3 as before until first corner, work around chain space as before. Now work chain stitches until middle of next side (i.e. in the middle between first and second corner) as follows: Work 1 chain stitch for every chain stitch/single crochet skipped. Then work pattern as before until the middle between 3rd and 4th corner. Now work chain stitches until 4th corner as follows: Work 1 chain stitch for every chain stitch/single crochet skipped, work around chain space in corner and the rest of round as before. On next round work A.3 as before over all stitches again (i.e. adjust pattern over armholes so that round is correct).
Continue A.3 in the round (repeat the 9 rounds vertically) until square measures 68-70-72-74-76-78 cm / 26¾''-27½''-28 3/8''-29 1/8''-30''-30¾'' x 68-70-72-74-76-78 cm / 26¾''-27½''-28 3/8''-29 1/8''-30''-30¾'' (i.e. approx. 16 cm / 6 1/4'' from armhole in all sizes) – adjust to finish after a round with treble groups. Cut the yarn and insert 1 marker in piece (between first and second corner).

FRONT PIECE:
Now work back and forth between first and second corner. NOTE! Work front pieces without increases. Read CROCHET INFO! Work A.4a around corner, repeat A.4b until 1 chain space remains before corner, work A.4c around this chain space and around corner. Continue pattern as shown in diagram and repeat A.4 vertically until row with treble groups has been worked 2 times in total vertically, then repeat only rows with chain spaces until piece measures approx. 19-20-21-22-23-24 cm / 7½''-8''-8¼''-8¾''-9''-9½'' from marker, then work row with treble groups 1 time in all sizes. Piece now measures 21-22-23-24-25-26 cm / 8¼''-8¾''-9''-9½''-9¾''-10¼'' from marker. Fasten off. Work the same way on the other side (i.e. work back and forth between third and fourth corner).

SLEEVE:
Work sleeve directly out from armhole on body. Work back and forth, top down and sew together when finished. Begin mid under sleeve and work as follows: Remember CROCHET INFO! Work A.4a around first chain space, repeat A.4b 15-16-17-18-19-20 times in total in width (adjust to distribute A.4b evenly along armhole, i.e. either 2 chain spaces must be worked around same chain space or skip 1 chain space), work A.4c around the last 2 chain spaces. Continue A.4 back and forth – AT THE SAME TIME when piece measures 4 cm / 1½'' (adjust to work next row with chain stitches/single crochets) decrease 1 repetition in each side – read DECREASE TIP. Decrease like this approx. every 8-8-8-6-6-6 cm / 3"-3"-3"-2½"-2½"-2½'' 3-3-3-4-4-4 times in total = 12-13-14-15-16-17 chain spaces of 6 stitches after last decrease. Continue until piece measures approx. 28 cm / 11'' in all sizes - finish after a row with chain spaces. Fasten off. Work the other sleeve the same way in the other side of piece.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew the seems under the sleeves, sew in the outermost stitches and make sure that the seam does not tighten the piece.

This pattern has been corrected. .

Updated online: 27.06.2018
Diagram A.1b has been corrected. A.2c is repeated 6 times (previously 7). There are 14 chains along each side of the square.
Updated online: 10.02.2020
The last icon was missing, (-) = 1 chain stitch. It is used in chart A.4 (--- = 3 chain stitches).

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

= single crochet in stitch
= single crochet around chain space
= 3 chain stitches
= 4 chain stitches
= 6 chain stitches
= 5 chain stitches
= 8 chain stitches
= 14 chain stitches
= 8 chain stitches, 1 slip stitch in treble crochet, 18 chain stitches, 1 slip stitch in treble crochet, 8 chain stitches
= double crochet around chain space
= DOUBLE GROUP: Work as follows around chain space: 3 double crochets, 4 chain stitches, 3 double crochets.
= 2 DOUBLE CROCHETS WORKED TOGETHER: Work 2 double crochets around chain stitch ring but wait with last yarn over and pull through on both these double crochets, make a yarn over and pull yarn over all 3 loops on hook
= treble crochet around chain space
= round begins with 3 chain stitches and finishes with 1 slip stitch in 3rd chain stitch at beginning of round
= round begins with 3 chain stitches and finishes with 1 slip stitch in 3rd chain stitch at beginning of round, then work slip stitches until first chain space
= round begins with 1 chain stitch and finishes with 1 slip stitch in 1st chain stitch at beginning of round, then work slip stitches until first chain space
= round begins with 4 chain stitches and finishes with 1 slip stitch in 4th chain stitch at beginning of round Fasten off. Begin next round around chain space between the last double group worked - fasten yarn with 1 slip stitch in chain space
= 4 chain stitches, form a ring with 1 slip stitch in first chain stitch - see point on circle, round begins and ends here
= 7 chain stitches
= 14 chain stitches
= 2 chain stitches, 1 single crochet around 18-chain space, 2 chain stitches
= 8 chain stitches, 1 half double crochet in first chain stitch
= treble crochet in double crochet
= double treble crochet around chain stitch/chain space
= this round has already been worked, begin on next round!
= slip stitch in space arrow points to
= shows where round continues
= 1 chain stitch




Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 186-11) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (59)

Sarah Walker 13.09.2020 - 23:13:

This pattern is extremely complicated and the chart uses symbols I haven't seen anywhere else. I may not even try to attempt this.

DROPS Design 14.09.2020 kl. 09:58:

Dear Mrs Walker, you will find the diagram key between written pattern and diagrams and this lesson explains how to read crochet diagrams. Happy crocheting!

Jo Harvey 19.08.2020 - 13:39:

In round 8 of A.1b -first round with treble crochet groups- there is an arrow to show continuation of the pattern. Should there be a } to indicate 5 chain stitches there like at the other end of the treble group and as it is in the following row. Doesn't look even without it

DROPS Design 19.08.2020 kl. 15:58:

Dear Mrs Harvey, it looks like you are right, our design team will check out diagram and make any adjustements. thanks for your feedback, Happy crocheting!

Anett 14.04.2020 - 00:53:

Jag har problem att tyda vad det är för symbol i A1a varv 5 och kommande varv. Ser inte om det är en oval ring så det är 14 luftmaskor eller om det är en annan symbol. Sen är det en pil på varv 8 på höger sida om bladet. Men 5 lm till vänster om bladet på samma rad. Ska det inte vara 5 lm på höger sida på rad 8 tacksam för svar så jag kört fast och vill komma vidare.

DROPS Design 29.04.2020 kl. 09:30:

Hej Anett, det er den her: = varvet börjar med 1 luftmaskebåge och avslutas med 1 smygmaska i 1:A luftmaskan i början av varvet, därefter virkas det smygmaskor fram till första luftmaskebågen

Karin 20.02.2020 - 19:16:

Guten Tag, es heißt beim Beenden des Rumpfteils: "A.3 in Runden weiterhäkeln (d.h. die 9 Runde in der Höhe wiederholen), ....daran angepasst, dass nach einer Runde mit Stäbchengruppen geendet wird. " Ist die letze Runde nun eine Stäbchenbruppenrunde oder folgt noch eine mit Luftmaschenbögen....bei A4 ist die die Vorrunde nämlich mit Luftmaschenbögen dargestellt. Vielen Dank im Voraus!

DROPS Design 21.02.2020 kl. 07:48:

Liebe Karin, die letzte Reihe A.3 muss eine mit Stäbchengruppen, dann häkeln Sie A.4 über diese Stäbchengruppen wie zuvor mit Luftmaschenbogen und Stäbchengruppen, aber nur zwischen 2 Ecke (und gerade für jedes Vorderteil). Viel Spaß beim häkeln!

Jannicke 16.02.2020 - 11:01:

Hei Jeg lurer på følgende i starten: heklet 3 + 5 lm og fortsatte med to staver sammen, 4 lm, to staver sammen, gjentok 5, lm, 2 st sm, 4 lm, 2 st sm, slik at det ble fire slike grupper. Det står at omgangen avsluttes ved å hekle kj.m i 3. lm fra starten på omgangen. Da får jeg to st.sm og tre lm (som blir en st) ved siden av hverandre og det er vel ikke riktig? Stusser også på at det skal hekles kj.m frem til første lm.bue, men jeg er jo allerede ved den? På forhånd takk.

DROPS Design 20.02.2020 kl. 09:15:

Hej Jannicke, de 3 lm i A.1a behøver du for at komme op på næste rad i diagrammet, de hækles i tillæg til A.1b. Kædemaskerne behøves ikke første gang, men dem behøver du senere i diagrammet. God fornøjelse!

Magdolna 12.02.2020 - 18:10:

The diagrams are disappeared from english (US) and hungarian version. I found them in norvegian version, but I dont speak norvegian :-( Last week , when I ordered the yarn, diagramms were visible. I can't crochet this beautiful jacket :-( Please help !

DROPS Design 13.02.2020 kl. 11:46:

Dear Magdolna, diagram text should be updated and visible soon in US-English, thanks in advance for your comprehension. Happy crocheting!

Szasz 24.01.2020 - 21:05:

Hej! Hur kan man tolka de små strecken i mönstret till Butterfly queen i A4 ? Hur kan man tolka diagram A4? Jag kan tyvärr inte fortsätta min virkning eftersom jag har ingen aning om hur många maskor ska jag virka, ska jag börja med avigsidan eller ej, och vilket hörn kallar ni för hörn 1 respektive hörn 2. Väldigt dålig beskrivning! Tack i förhand för svaret!

DROPS Design 10.02.2020 kl. 12:08:

Hi Szasz. Her manglet det forklaring på (-) = 1 luftmaske / (--- = 3 luftmasker i diagram A.4). Det er nå lagt til i oppskriften/lagt til en rettelse. Takk for at du gjorde oss oppmerksom på dette. mvh DROPS design

Edwige Mahiat 13.09.2019 - 20:37:

Bonjour, ce modèle est superbe. J'en suis au niveau des manches mais je ne trouve pas les infos crochet pour les diminutions. Merci de votre réponse

DROPS Design 16.09.2019 kl. 08:32:

Bonjour Mme Mahiat, merci pour votre retour, ces informations ont été ajoutées. Bon crochet!

Helene 30.08.2019 - 13:52:

Bonjour. JE suis rendue au 2e diagramme et je comprend pas pas du tout le deuxième tour . On commence par 3 ml puis 2 brides, 4ml, 3 brides. Ca va jusque là mais le problème est avec le diagramme suivant qui indique qu’on doit faire 8ml et.une demi bride dans le 1e ml . C’est la ou je ne comprend pas ou je dois faire cette demi bride. Mercii

DROPS Design 30.08.2019 kl. 15:09:

Bonjour Hélène, je suppose que vous parlez de A.2a/A.2b? Les tours commencent par A.2a (= 3 ml) puis on répète A.2b (= 3 brides, 4 ml, 3 brides), puis 2 mailles en l'air, 1 maille serrée autour de l'arceau de 18 mailles en l'air, 2 mailles en l'air, 3 brides, 2 ml, 3 brides etc... on termine le rang par 1 mc dans la 3ème ml du début du tour (= A.2a), au 3ème tour, on va crocheter 3 ml, puis 3 b, 2 ml, 3b 1 double-bride dans la maille serrée, 3 b, 2 ml, 3 b etc... La demi-bride se fait au 5ème tour en piquant dans la 1ère des 8 ml que l'on fait juste avant cette demi-bride. Bon crochet!

Caroline K 31.07.2019 - 21:06:

Bonjour, Je commence le modèle et je comprends pas le 1er symbole après le cercle magique. Dans les explications il est note 2 bridés coulés ensemble. Est ce que ça veut dire que je devrais avoir 16 Brides. Parce qu'il y a 4 brides dans le schéma 1b. Concernant chaque fin de tout. Faut il les finir par une maille coulée? Merci par avance pour vos reponses

DROPS Design 06.08.2019 kl. 16:13:

Bonjour Caroline K, vous crochetez d'abord A.1a = 15ème symbole soit 3 mailles en l'air, puis répétez 4x A.1b en largeur, vous aurez donc: 3 ml (= A.1a) puis 4 fois (5 mailles en l'air, 2 brides écoulées ensemble, 4 mailles en l'air, 2 brides écoulées ensemble), et vous terminez par 1 maille coulée dans la 3ème ml du début du tour (= cf A.1a et 15ème symbole). Bon crochet!

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