DROPS / 186 / 19

Aretusa by DROPS Design

Knitted shawl with lace pattern. Piece is knitted top down in DROPS Merino Extra Fine.

Tags: lace, madame, shawls,
DROPS design: Pattern me-137
Yarn group B
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Measurements:
Height measured along middle stitch: approx. 109 cm / 43''
Width measured along top: approx. 218 cm / 86''
Materials:
DROPS MERINO EXTRA FINE from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group B)
550 g color 23, gray blue

Piece can also be knitted with yarn from:
“Alternative yarn (yarn group B)” - see link below.

DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE (80 cm / 32'') SIZE 3.5 mm/US 4 – or size needed to get 22 stitches and 30 rows in stockinette stitch = width 10 cm / 4'' and 10 cm / 4'' vertically.

Have you knitted/crocheted this or any other of our designs? Tag your pictures in social media with #dropsdesign so we can see them!

Want to use a different yarn? Try our yarn converter!
Not sure which size you should choose? Then it might help you to know that the model in the picture is approx. 5 ft 7 in and uses size S or M. If you are making a sweater, cardigan, dress or similar garment, you will find a graphic with the measurements of the finished garment (in cm) at the bottom of the pattern.

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Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
INFORMATION FOR PATTERN:

GARTER STITCH (back and forth):
1 ridge = knit 2 rows.

PATTERN:
See diagrams A.1 to A.13. Diagrams show all rows in pattern seen from the right side.

BIND-OFF TIP:
To get an elastic bind-off edge you can use a bigger needle size when binding off, or make yarn overs from previous pattern row. Bind off these yarn overs as regular stitches.

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SHAWL:
Worked back and forth on circular needle to make room for all the stitches. Work top down.

Cast on 7 stitches on circular needle size 3.5 mm / US 4 with Merino Extra Fine. Knit 1 row from wrong side.
ROW 1: (= right side): Work 2 stitches in GARTER STITCH - see explanation above, 1 yarn over, knit 1, 1 yarn over, knit 1, 1 yarn over, knit 1, 1 yarn over, 2 stitches in garter stitch.
ROW 2 (= wrong side): Work 2 stitches in garter stitch, purl until 2 stitches remain and work 2 stitches in garter stitch = 11 stitches on row.
ROW 3 (= right side): Work 2 stitches in garter stitch, 1 yarn over, knit 3, 1 yarn over, knit 1, 1 yarn over, knit 3, 1 yarn over and 2 stitches in garter stitch = 15 stitches on row.
ROW 4 (= wrong side): Work 2 stitches in garter stitch, purl until 2 stitches remain and work 2 stitches in garter stitch.

Then work according to diagrams, in each side of piece work 2 stitches in garter stitch throughout the piece and work middle stitch in stockinette stitch.

Work according to diagram A.1 as follows from right side:
Work 2 stitches in garter stitch, work A.1 over 5 stitches, 1 stitch in stockinette stitch (= middle stitch), work A.1 over 5 stitches and 2 stitches in garter stitch. When the diagrams have been worked 1 time vertically, there are 31 stitches on row.

Work according to diagrams A.2, A.3 and A.4 as follows from right side:
Work 2 stitches in garter stitch, A.2 over 3 stitches, A.3 over 8 stitches, A.4 over 2 stitches, 1 stitch in stockinette stitch (= middle stitch), A.2 over 3 stitches, A.3 over 8 stitches, A.4 over 2 stitches and 2 stitches in garter stitch. When diagram has been worked 1 time vertically, there are 47 stitches on row.
Repeat diagram vertically, every time the diagrams are worked vertically, there is room for 1 more repetition over A.3 between A.2 and A.4.
Work the diagrams like this until A.2-A.4 have been worked 17 times in total vertically and there are 303 stitches on row.

Work according to diagrams A.5, A.6 and A.7 as follows from right side:
Work 2 stitches in garter stitch, A.5 over 1 stitch, repeat A.6 until 1 stitch remains before middle stitch, A.7 over 1 stitch, 1 stitch in stockinette stitch (= middle stitch), A.5 over 1 stitch, repeat A.6 until 3 stitches remain, A.7 over 1 stitch and 2 stitches in garter stitch. When the diagrams have been worked 1 time vertically, there are 319 stitches on row.

Work according to diagrams A.8, A.9 and A.10 as follows from right side:
Work 2 stitches in garter stitch, A.8 over 2 stitches, repeat A.9 until 2 stitches remain before middle stitch (17 times in width), A.10 over 2 stitches, 1 stitch in stockinette stitch (= middle stitch), A.8 over 2 stitches, repeat A.9 until 4 stitches remain (17 times in width), A.10 over 2 stitches and 2 stitches in garter stitch. When the diagrams have been worked 1 time vertically, there are 343 stitches on row.

Work according to diagrams A.5, A.6 and A.7 as follows from right side:
Work 2 stitches in garter stitch, A.5 over 1 stitch, repeat A.6 until 1 stitch remains before middle stitch, A.7 over 1 stitch, 1 stitch in stockinette stitch (= middle stitch), A.5 over 1 stitch, repeat A.6 until 3 stitches remain, A.7 over 1 stitch and 2 stitches in garter stitch. When the diagrams have been worked 1 time vertically, there are 359 stitches on row.

Work according to diagrams A.11, A.12 and A.13 as follows from right side:
Work 2 stitches in garter stitch, A.11 over 9 stitches, repeat A.12 until 8 stitches remain before middle stitch (10 times in width), A.13 over 8 stitches, 1 stitch in stockinette stitch (= middle stitch), A.11 over 9 stitches, repeat A.12 until 10 stitches remain on needle (10 times in width), A.13 over 8 stitches and 2 stitches in garter stitch. When the diagrams have been worked 1 time vertically, there are 471 stitches on row. READ BIND-OFF TIP! Loosely bind off on next row from right side. Fasten off.

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

= knit from the right side, purl from the wrong side
= purl from the right side, knit from the wrong side
= between 2 stitches make 1 yarn over, purl yarn over on next row to make a hole
= knit 2 together
= slip 1 stitch knitwise, knit 1, pass slipped stitch over stitch worked
= slip 1 stitch knitwise, knit 2 stitches together, pass slipped stitch over stitches worked together




Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 186-19) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (23)

Annette 22.10.2020 - 16:11:

Ved udtagning på A1 tager man 4 masker ud på den første pind men vrangpinden siger 7 masker men der er 9 masker

DROPS Design 23.10.2020 kl. 09:43:

Hej Annette. På första pind tar du ut 4 maskor och tar in 2, så du kommer ha 7 maskor på andra pind. Mvh DROPS Design

Anna 08.07.2020 - 14:06:

É possibile farlo quadrato? Come dovrei fare per averlo quadrato?

DROPS Design 08.07.2020 kl. 16:19:

Buongiorno Anna, per un'assistenza così personalizzata, le consigliamo di rivolgersi al suo rivenditore DROPS di fiducia. Buon lavoro!

Jalanda 03.07.2020 - 15:12:

Over mijn vraag hieronder, ik heb het antwoord al gezien. Ik brei van boven naar beneden en niet van onder naar boven. Mijn excuses

Jolanda 03.07.2020 - 14:59:

Wat een mooi patroon. Ik ben bezig met a2 A3 en A4. Klopt het dat ik aan het einde deze steken laat rusten en voor A6 en verder steken aan de zijkant opneem?

DROPS Design 04.07.2020 kl. 19:48:

Dag Jolanda,

Nee, je laat nergens steken rusten. Je breit de omslagdoek van boven naar beneden en je begint midden achter aan de bovenkant en je krijt steeds meer steken op de naald. Aan het eind heb je alle steken van de ondderrand op de naald. Als je A.2 tot en met A.4 in de hoogte hebt gebreid, dan brei je daarboven A.5 tot en met A.7 in de hoogte.

Nicolle 28.05.2020 - 23:13:

Bonsoir, j'ai un souci quand je fais le châle, après les 44 mailles en gros quand il faut tricoter A2/2xA3/A4 et bien a la deuxième ligne il me manque 1 maille. J'ai beau refaire et bien il y a vraiment un souci je pense.

DROPS Design 29.05.2020 kl. 08:15:

Bonjour Nicolle, attention vous devez avoir 47 m et non 44 à la fin du premier A.2-A.3-A.4 - essayez de mettre un marqueur entre chaque diagramme pour pouvoir bien vérifier votre nombre de mailles, vous allez augmenter 4 m par rang (1 dans chaque A.2 et dans chaque A.4), à la fin du 1er rang, vous aurez donc 47+4=51 m. Bon tricot!

Goumaz 18.02.2020 - 12:42:

Je viens de terminer le diagramme A1 A2A3A4 et j'ai 47 mailles. Je continue comment ? Je recommence avec A1? ou comment faire ????? Merci beaucoup pour l'aide

DROPS Design 18.02.2020 kl. 13:12:

Bonjour Mme Goumaz, vous continuez comme avant avec les mêmes diagrammes, mais cette fois, vous allez répéter 2 fois A.3 entre A.2 et A.4 ainsi: 2 m point mousse, A.2 (= 3 m), A.3 (= 2 fois 8 m), A.4 (= 2 m), 1 m jersey (= maille centrale), A.2 (= 3 m), A.3 ( =2 fois 8 m), A.4 (=2 m) et 2 mailles au point mousse. Quand les diagrammes seront terminés, vous continuerez pareil, mais vous aurez cette fois 3 fois A.3 entre A.2 et A.4 et ainsi de suite jusqu'à ce que vous ayez tricoté 17 fois A.2-A.4 en hauteur. Bon tricot!

Rose 06.03.2019 - 15:22:

Bonjour, Je vous remercie pour vos explications qui me sont d'un très grand secours...

Rose 05.03.2019 - 19:24:

J'ai un petit soucis : J'ai tricoté une premiere fois A1 A2 A3 A4 et j'ai donc 47 mailles. Je n'ai pas compris comment continuer : est ce que je continue avec une série de A1, puis A2 A3 A4 (17 fois) ? Dans ce cas, lorsque je veux tricoter un premier rang A1, j'intercale une maille entre chaque motif ? (car deux jetés sont côte à côte)... Merci d'avance pour votre aide...

DROPS Design 06.03.2019 kl. 09:16:

Bonjour Rose, une fois que vous avez tricoté 1 x A.2, A.3, A.4 et que vous avez 47 m, vous allez répéter ces diagrammes en hauteur ainsi, la 2ème fois: 2 m point mousse, A.2, 2 x A.3, A.4, 1 m centrale, A.2, 2xA.3, A.4, 2 m point mousse. Tricotez ainsi encore 1 fois les diagrammes en hauteur, la fois suivante, vous tricoterez: A.2, 3xA.3, A.4 et ainsi de suite jusqu'à ce que vous ayez répété 17 fois ces diagrammes au total en hauteur. Bon tricot!

Ria Booltink 02.01.2019 - 16:36:

Moet ik na de herhaling van patroon 2 3 4 alleen de 3 extra breien?

DROPS Design 23.01.2019 kl. 12:11:

Dag Ria,

Als je de telpatronen A.2, A.3 en A.4 een keer in de hoogte hebt gebreid, herhaal je dit patroon steeds in de hoogte en elke keer als je dit patroon herhaalt hebt in de hoogte, is er ruimte voor nog 1 herhaling van A.3 tussen A.2 en A.4

Barbara 30.10.2018 - 23:45:

Ich habe schon das Model 176-21 gestrickt. Sehr schön!!! Dieses Model ist mir etwas zu groß. Die Musterfolge A2, A3, A4 ist ja diejenige, die Größe macht. Ich würde sie nicht 17 Mal wiederholen, sondern vielleicht nur 12 Mal. Frage: Wieviel cm insgesamt messen die Musterfolgen ungefähr, die sich an A2, A3, A4 anschließen?? Danke!!

DROPS Design 31.10.2018 kl. 08:37:

Liebe Barbara, wir haben diese Masse leider nicht, aber diese Höhe können Sie messen, wenn Sie z.B. diese 12 Rapport in der Höhe gestrickt haben. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

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