DROPS Flora
DROPS Flora
65% Wool, 35% Alpaca
from 2.40 £ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 12.00£.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Christmas Calendar

Butterfly Queen

Crocheted jacket worked in a square with lace pattern. Size: S - XXXL Piece is crocheted in DROPS Flora.

DROPS 186-11

#butterflyqueenjacket

DROPS design: Pattern fl-033
Yarn group A
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Size: S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL
Materials:
DROPS FLORA from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group A)
250-250-300-300-350-400 g colour no 20, peach pink

Piece can also be crocheted with yarn from:
“Alternative yarn (yarn group A)” - see link below.

DROPS CROCHET HOOK SIZE 3.5 mm - or size needed to get 22 treble crochets x 12 rows = 10 cm in width and 10 cm vertically.
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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Flora
DROPS Flora
65% Wool, 35% Alpaca
from 2.40 £ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 12.00£.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. Convert from cm to inches here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, convert "crochet terms" here. See this pattern in American English here..
INFORMATION FOR PATTERN:

PATTERN:
See diagrams A.1 to A.4.

CROCHET INFO (applies A.4):
Replace first double crochet at beginning of row with 1 chain stitch.
Replace first triple treble crochet at beginning of row with 5 chain stitches.

DECREASE TIP (applies to mid under sleeve):
Work 5 chain stitches, skip 1 double crochet + 1 chain space, work 1 double crochet around next chain space + 1 chain space (= 1 repetition decreased), continue pattern as before until 1 chain space remains + 1 double crochet on previous row, skip these stitches and finish with 1 double treble crochet in first chain stitch at beginning of previous row (= 1 repetition decreased).
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JACKET:
Worked in the round from mid back on back and outwards as a square, then work back and forth on front pieces. Work sleeves back and forth from body, then sew them together under sleeve.

Work 4 chain stitches on hook size 3.5 mm with Flora and form a ring with 1 slip stitch in first chain stitch. Then work pattern in the round according to diagram A.1b 4 times in total on round - diagram A.1a shows how rounds begin and end and is worked in addition to A.1b. REMEMBER THE CROCHET TENSION! When entire diagram A.1a and A.1b is cut the tread, and begin next round around chain space between last treble group worked and fasten thread with 1 slip stitch in this chain space.
Now work in the round according to diagram A.2 as follows: * Work A.2b, repeat A.2c 6 times in total in width, A.2d *, repeat from *-* 4 times in total on round – diagram A.2a shows how rounds begin and end and are worked in addition to A.2b/c/d. When entire diagram A.2a and A.2b have been worked, square measures approx. 36 x 36 cm. There are now 4 corner chain spaces (1 treble crochet + 6 chain stitches + 1 treble crochet) and 14 chain spaces along each of the sides on square. READ THE REST OF BODY BEFORE CONTINUING!

Continue to work as follows: * Work A.3b around corner space, repeat A.3c until 1 chain space remains before corner, work A.3d around next chain space *, repeat from *-* 4 times in total on round – diagram A.3a shows how rounds begin and end and are worked in addition to A.3b/c/d.
AT THE SAME TIME when piece measures approx. 36-38-40-42-44-46 cm x 36-38-40-42-44-46 cm work armholes as follows: Work A.3 as before until first corner, work around chain space as before. Now work chain stitches until middle of next side (i.e. in the middle between first and second corner) as follows: Work 1 chain stitch for every chain stitch/double crochet skipped. Then work pattern as before until the middle between 3rd and 4th corner. Now work chain stitches until 4th corner as follows: Work 1 chain stitch for every chain stitch/double crochet skipped, work around chain space in corner and the rest of round as before. On next round work A.3 as before over all stitches again (i.e. adjust pattern over armholes so that round is correct).
Continue A.3 in the round (repeat the 9 rounds vertically) until square measures 68-70-72-74-76-78 cm x 68-70-72-74-76-78 cm (i.e. approx. 16 cm from armhole in all sizes) – adjust to finish after a round with treble groups. Cut the yarn and insert 1 marker in piece (between first and second corner).

FRONT PIECE:
Now work back and forth between first and second corner. NOTE! Work front pieces without increases. Read CROCHET INFO! Work A.4a around corner, repeat A.4b until 1 chain space remains before corner, work A.4c around this chain space and around corner. Continue pattern as shown in diagram and repeat A.4 vertically until row with treble groups has been worked 2 times in total vertically, then repeat only rows with chain spaces until piece measures approx. 19-20-21-22-23-24 cm from marker, then work row with treble groups 1 time in all sizes. Piece now measures 21-22-23-24-25-26 cm from marker. Fasten off. Work the same way on the other side (i.e. work back and forth between third and fourth corner).

SLEEVE:
Work sleeve directly out from armhole on body. Work back and forth, top down and sew together when finished. Begin mid under sleeve and work as follows: Remember CROCHET INFO! Work A.4a around first chain space, repeat A.4b 15-16-17-18-19-20 times in total in width (adjust to distribute A.4b evenly along armhole, i.e. either 2 chain spaces must be worked around same chain space or skip 1 chain space), work A.4c around the last 2 chain spaces. Continue A.4 back and forth – AT THE SAME TIME when piece measures 4 cm (adjust to work next row with chain stitches/double crochets) decrease 1 repetition in each side – read DECREASE TIP. Decrease like this approx. every 8-8-8-6-6-6 cm 3-3-3-4-4-4 times in total = 12-13-14-15-16-17 chain spaces of 6 stitches after last decrease. Continue until piece measures approx. 28 cm in all sizes - finish after a row with chain spaces. Fasten off. Work the other sleeve the same way in the other side of piece.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew the seems under the sleeves, sew in the outermost stitches and make sure that the seam does not tighten the piece.

This pattern has been corrected.

Updated online: 27.06.2018
Diagram A.1b has been corrected. A.2c is repeated 6 times (previously 7). There are 14 chains along each side of the square.
Updated online: 10.02.2020
The last icon was missing, (-) = 1 chain stitch.
It is used in chart A.4 (--- = 3 chain stitches).

Diagram

symbols = double crochet in stitch
symbols = double crochet around chain space
symbols = 3 chain stitches
symbols = 4 chain stitches
symbols = 6 chain stitches
symbols = 5 chain stitches
symbols = 8 chain stitches
symbols = 14 chain stitches
symbols = 8 chain stitches, 1 slip stitch in double treble crochet, 18 chain stitches, 1 slip stitch in double treble crochet, 8 chain stitches
symbols = treble crochet around chain space
symbols = TREBLE GROUP: Work as follows around chain space: 3 treble crochets, 4 chain stitches, 3 treble crochets.
symbols = 2 TREBLE CROCHETS WORKED TOGETHER: Work 2 treble crochets around chain stitch ring but wait with last yarn over and pull through on both these treble crochets, make a yarn over and pull yarn over all 3 loops on hook
symbols = double treble crochet around chain space
symbols = round begins with 3 chain stitches and finishes with 1 slip stitch in 3rd chain stitch at beginning of round
symbols = round begins with 3 chain stitches and finishes with 1 slip stitch in 3rd chain stitch at beginning of round, then work slip stitches until first chain space
symbols = round begins with 1 chain stitch and finishes with 1 slip stitch in 1st chain stitch at beginning of round, then work slip stitches until first chain space
symbols = round begins with 4 chain stitches and finishes with 1 slip stitch in 4th chain stitch at beginning of round Fasten off. Begin next round around chain space between the last treble group worked - fasten yarn with 1 slip stitch in chain space
symbols = 4 chain stitches, form a ring with 1 slip stitch in first chain stitch - see point on circle, round begins and ends here
symbols = 7 chain stitches
symbols = 14 chain stitches
symbols = 2 chain stitches, 1 double crochet around 18-chain space, 2 chain stitches
symbols = 8 chain stitches, 1 half treble crochet in first chain stitch
symbols = double treble crochet in double crochet
symbols = triple treble crochet around chain stitch/chain space
symbols = this round has already been worked, begin on next round!
symbols = slip stitch in space arrow points to
symbols = shows where round continues
symbols = 1 chain stitch
diagram
diagram
diagram
diagram
Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size is only meant as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn calculator, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the calculator will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be calculated separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn calculator

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn calculator, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn calculator will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a tension/gauge swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!
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Comments / Questions (87)

country flag Natalie wrote:

Was bedeuten die ^ in A1b? Ich kann in der Legende nichts finden. Dankeschön!

18.07.2024 - 19:33

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Natalie, das sind 3 Luftmaschen. In der Symbolbeschreibung ist das Zeichen liegend dargestellt. Viel Spaß beim Häkeln!

23.07.2024 - 00:16

country flag Martina wrote:

Hallöchen! Bisher war die Häkelarbeit ganz gut machbar, auch wenn ich also mal öfter nochmal aufziehen musste… 😅 Ich hänge jetzt allerdings etwas mit der Beschreibung für den Ärmel-Ausschnitt…. Muster is ja 6 luftmaschen, eine feste. Wie ist das mit den „Luftmaschen bis zur Mitte und 1 für jede ausgelassene Luftmasche/feste Masche“ gemeint? 🧐

21.06.2024 - 22:23

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Martina, in diesem Video zeigen wir, wie man mit solchen Jacken Armlöcher häkelt: zählen Sie die Maschen von der Mitte der Seite bis zur Ecke und diese Maschenanzahl häkeln Sie als Luftmaschen für das 1. Armloch, und bei dem 2.Armausschnitt wird dans genauso gehäkelt aber ab die Ecke bis die Mitte von der Seite. Viel Spaß beim Häkeln!

24.06.2024 - 07:57

country flag Sunny wrote:

I\'m wondering, is this pattern considered easy, intermediate or difficult

02.04.2024 - 16:41

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Sunny, I would not call it easy, as you would need to be able to follow a diagram, and do several different stitches/stitch combinations to do teh back-pattern. However, once you got through the center-back motif, there isn't much shaping, so probably I would call this an intermediate piece. Happy Crafting!

02.04.2024 - 23:52

country flag Ann Gentleman wrote:

I really want to make the Butterfly Queen jacket but despite trying to understand the schematic drawing I cannot see how to start and finish each row. This needs its own video, so if you can't supply this, please tell me if you know of anyone who has succeeded with this pattern, apart from the scientific person who devised the chart. I'm really upset that this is so difficult and I'm not a beginner!

23.08.2023 - 14:17

DROPS Design answered:

Dar Mrs Gentleman, the beginning of rounds are explained in the diagram, for ex. work A.1 a (see matching symbol for each round), beginning with 4 chains on first round, and on 2nd round (2 different symbols) and finishing with 1slip stitch in the 3th chain from beg of round. You can also find some finished projects on Ravelry. Happy crocheting!

23.08.2023 - 16:38

country flag Miranda wrote:

Ich habe die Jacke gestern das erste Mal ausgeführt und viel Lob kassiert. Danke für das schöne Muster wenn es auch recht kompliziert ist.

21.08.2023 - 09:58

country flag Daniela wrote:

In lingua italiana c'è un errore nella legenda, il ventaglietto nero non è "4 cat., 3 m.alte" ma "3 maglie alte,4 cat.,3 m.alte” come nelle altre lingue

29.06.2023 - 13:11

DROPS Design answered:

Buonasera Daniela, abbiamo corretto la legenda. Buon lavoro!

06.07.2023 - 16:52

country flag Connie Bach wrote:

Desuden er der et tegn ^ som jeg ingen forklaring finder på ! Det tegn < er jo ikke det samme

11.04.2023 - 15:49

country flag Connie Bach wrote:

Nederst i opskriften ? Små videoer der er urelevante i denne opskrift ! Jeg finder intet der fortæller om hvordan man skal gøre Intet på YouTube feks. ?

11.04.2023 - 15:46

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Connie, < tegnet betyder 3 luftmasker uanset hvordan det vender. Vi skriver en video på ønskelisten og håber at vi kan få den lagt ud så hurtigt som muligt :)

13.04.2023 - 12:00

country flag Connie Bach wrote:

Mega svær at følge den her opskrift ! Findes der dog ikke en video et sted, hvor man lige kan få lidt hjælp ? Diagrammerne er jo totalt uforståelige og runderne virker forkerte !

11.04.2023 - 13:03

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Connie, jo vi har en video, du finder den nederst i opskriften, her kan du helt sikkert se hvordan det skal se ud :)

11.04.2023 - 15:33

country flag Irene wrote:

Just to let you know, I can confirm that I made a mistake when working the pattern and now understand where I have gone wrong. There is no need for you to respond but I thank you for all the lovely patterns produced. Many thanks

12.02.2023 - 18:33