DROPS Snow
100% Wool
from 2.00 £ /50g

Order

Order

Get the yarn to make this pattern from 24.00£.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

Frosty's Christmas

Christmas jumper with raglan and snowman, worked top down. Sizes S - XXXL. The piece is worked in DROPS Snow or DROPS Wish.

DROPS 183-13
DROPS Design: Pattern no ee-597
Yarn group E or C + C
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Sizes: S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL
Materials:
DROPS SNOW from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group E)
500-600-650-700-750-850 g colour 46, medium grey
50 g for all sizes in colour 01, off white
(You will need 50 g extra of colour 01, off white, if you would like a snowman on the back as well)
50 g for all sizes in colour 02, black
A left over colour 07, orange - for nose
A left over colour 05, petrol - for scarf

Or use:
DROPS WISH from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group E)
500-600-650-700-750-850 g colour 07, medium grey
50 g for all sizes in colour 01, off white
(You will need 50 g extra of colour 01, off white, if you would like a snowman on the back as well)
50 g for all sizes in colour 06, dark grey
A left over colour 11, tabasco - for nose
A left over colour 16, navy blue - for scarf

The piece can also be knitted with yarn from:
"Alternative yarn (Yarn group E)" – see link below.

DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLE AND CIRCULAR NEEDLE (80 cm) SIZE 8 MM – or the size needed to get 11 stitches and 15 rows stocking stitch on 10 cm in width and 10 cm in height.

DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE (40 + 80 cm) SIZE 7 MM for moss stitch - or the size needed to get 12 stitches and 16 rows stocking stitch on 10 cm in width and 10 cm in height.
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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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More like this:
Women Holidays & Celebrations Jumpers Christmas Jumpers Christmas Jumpers & Cardigans Christmas Workshop assembly free christmas chunky knits colourwork graphic high neck raglan round neck top down

UK
Ireland

DROPS Snow
100% Wool
from 2.00 £ /50g

Order

DROPS Needles & Hooks

Order

Get the yarn to make this pattern from 24.00£.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.

INFORMATION FOR THE PATTERN:

RIDGE/GARTER STITCH (worked back and forth):
1 ridge = Knit 2 rows.

PATTERN:
See diagrams A.1 to A.3. Diagram A.3 shows a knot.
Diagram A.2 (snowman): The whole diagram is worked in stocking stitch. Work with 3 balls so that you avoid long carrying strands on the wrong side. In other words, you work with 1 ball medium grey on each side of the jumper and 1 ball of pattern colour in the middle. NOTE: To avoid a hole when changing colours, the strands must be twisted together.

INCREASE TIP (raglan):
All increases are worked from the right side!
Work 1 edge stitch in garter stitch, knit 1, 1 yarn over, work until there are 2 stitches left, 1 yarn over, knit 1, 1 edge stitch in garter stitch. On the next row, purl the yarn overs - to leave holes.

DECREASE TIP (for sleeves):
All decreases are worked from the right side!
Decrease as follows after the 1 edge stitch: Slip 1 stitch as if to knit, knit 1, pass the slipped stitch over the knitted stitch.
Decrease as follows before the 1 edge stitch: Start 2 stitches before the edge stitch and knit 2 together.

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JUMPER:
The piece is worked back and forth with circular needle, top down. Front piece, back piece (back piece with or without snowman) and sleeves are worked back and forth separately. This is to make it easier to work pattern. Then the pieces are sewn together stitch by stitch along the raglan increases and sides. The neckline is worked in the round to finish.

BACK PIECE – without snowman:
Cast on 22-24-24-28-30-34 stitches (including 1 edge stitch in each side) with circular needle size 8 mm and medium grey. Purl 1 row from the wrong side. Then work stocking stitch with 1 edge stitch in GARTER STITCH - see description above, in each side. At the same time on the next row increase 1 stitch in each side - read INCREASE TIP (raglan) above! Increase in this way every 2nd row a total of 13-14-15-16-17-19 times = 48-52-54-60-64-72 stitches - REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION!
Work 4-4-4-2-2-2 rows without increases. The piece measures approx. 20-21-23-23-24-27 cm. THE PIECE IS NOW MEASURED FROM HERE! Then cast on 2-2-3-3-4-4 new stitches for armholes at the end of the next 2 rows = 52-56-60-66-72-80 stitches.
Continue with stocking stitch with 1 edge stitch in garter stitch in each side until the piece measures 30-29-30-31-32-30 cm. Change to circular needle size 7 mm and work 1 row stocking stitch where you increase 2-2-2-0-2-2 stitches evenly on row = 54-58-62-66-74-82 stitches. Then work as follows: 1 edge stitch in garter stitch, work A.1 (= 4 stitches) until there is 1 stitch left, work 1 edge stitch in garter stitch. Continue until A.1 has been worked in height. Cast off LOOSELY with knit over knit and purl over purl.

BACK PIECE – with snowman:
Cast on 22-24-24-28-30-34 stitches (including 1 edge stitch in each side) with circular needle size 8 mm and medium grey. Purl 1 row from the wrong side. Then work stocking stitch with 1 edge stitch in GARTER STITCH (see description above) in each side. At the same time on the next row increase 1 stitch in each side - read INCREASE TIP (raglan) above! Increase in this way every 2nd row a total of 13-14-15-16-17-19 times = 48-52-54-60-64-72 stitches - REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION! - AT THE SAME TIME when there are 40-40-44-44-50-56 stitches on the row start pattern. I.e. the next row is worked as follows (including increases in each side): Work 1 edge stitch in garter stitch, knit 1, 1 yarn over (= increase), knit 5-5-7-7-10-13 stitches, diagram A.2 (= 26 stitches)-Read PATTERN above, knit 5-5-7-7-10-13 stitches, 1 yarn over (= increase), knit 1 and 1 edge stitch in garter stitch = 42-42-46-46-52-58 stitches. Continue pattern and increases until you have 48-52-54-60-64-72 stitches.

Work 4-4-4-2-2-2 rows without increases. The piece measures approx. 20-21-23-23-24-27 cm. THE PIECE IS NOW MEASURED FROM HERE! Then cast on 2-2-3-3-4-4 new stitches for armholes at the end of the next 2 rows = 52-56-60-66-72-80 stitches.

Continue with stocking stitch and pattern with 1 edge stitch in garter stitch in each side. When A.2 has been worked in height, the piece measures 29-27-27-27-26-25 cm. Continue working with medium grey as before until the piece measures 30-29-30-31-32-30 cm. Change to circular needle size 7 mm and work 1 row stocking stitch where you increase 2-2-2-0-2-2 stitches evenly on row = 54-58-62-66-74-82 stitches. Then work as follows: 1 edge stitch in garter stitch, work A.1 (= 4 stitches) until there is 1 stitch left, work 1 edge stitch in garter stitch. Continue until A.1 has been worked in height. Cast off with knit over knit and purl over purl - make sure the cast-off edge is not tight.

FRONT PIECE:
Cast on 22-24-24-28-30-34 stitches (including 1 edge stitch in each side) with circular needle size 8 mm and medium grey. Purl 1 row from the wrong side. Then work stocking stitch with 1 edge stitch in garter stitch in each side. At the same time on the next row begin to increase as for back piece. Continue to increase as for back piece - AT THE SAME TIME when there are 40-40-44-44-50-56 stitches on the row start the pattern. I.e. the next row is worked as follows (including the increase in each side): Read PATTERN above! Work 1 edge stitch in garter stitch, knit 1, 1 yarn over (= increase), knit 5-5-7-7-10-13 stitches, diagram A.2 (= 26 stitches), knit 5-5-7-7-10-13 stitches, 1 yarn over (= increase), knit 1 and 1 edge stitch in garter stitch = 42-42-46-46-52-58 stitches. Continue the pattern and increases in each side are continued as for back piece = 48-52-54-60-64-72 stitches.
Work 4-4-4-2-2-2 rows without increases. The piece measures approx. 20-21-23-23-24-27 cm. THE PIECE IS NOW MEASURED FROM HERE! Cast on new stitches for the armholes as for the back piece = 52-56-60-66-72-80 stitches.
Continue with stocking stitch and pattern with 1 edge stitch in garter stitch in each side. When A.2 has been worked in height the piece measures approx. 29-27-27-27-26-25 cm. Continue to work with medium grey until the piece measures 30-29-30-31-32-30 cm. Change to circular needle size 7 mm and work 1 row stocking stitch where you increase 2-2-2-0-2-2 stitches evenly on row = 54-58-62-66-74-82 stitches. Then work as follows: 1 edge stitch in garter stitch, work A.1 (= 4 stitches) until there is 1 stitch left, work 1 edge stitch in garter stitch. Continue until A.1 has been worked in height. Cast off with knit over knit and purl over purl - make sure the cast-off edge is not tight.

SLEEVE:
Cast on 10-12-12-12-10-8 stitches (including 1 edge stitch in garter stitch in each side) with circular needle size 8 mm and medium grey. Purl 1 row from the wrong side. Then work stocking stitch. On the next row increase 1 stitch in each side - remember INCREASE TIP (raglan)! Increase in this way every 2nd row a total of 13-14-15-16-17-19 times = 36-40-42-44-44-46 stitches. Work 4-4-4-2-2-2 rows without increases. The piece measures approx. 20-21-23-23-24-27 cm. THE PIECE IS NOW MEASURED FROM HERE!

Then cast on 2-2-3-3-4-4 new stitches for armholes at the end of the next 2 rows = 40-44-48-50-52-54 stitches. Continue with stocking stitch with 1 edge stitch in garter stitch in each side. When the piece measures 2 cm decrease 1 stitch in each side - read DECREASE TIP above. Decrease in this way every 7-5-4-3½-3½-3 cm a total of 6-8-9-10-10-11 times = 28-28-30-30-32-32 stitches. Continue until the piece measures 41-40-39-39-39-37 cm (shorter measurements in larger sizes because of wider neck and longer yoke). Change to circular needle size 7 mm and work 1 row stocking stitch where you increase 2-2-0-0-2-2 stitches evenly on row = 30-30-30-30-34-34 stitches. Then work as follows: 1 edge stitch in garter stitch, work A.1 (= 4 stitches) until there is 1 stitch left, work 1 edge stitch in garter stitch. Work in this way for 4 cm. Cast off with knit over knit and purl over purl - make sure the cast-off edge is not tight. Work one more sleeve in the same way.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew sleeves to front and back pieces - sew inside the 1 edge stitch in garter stitch. NOTE! Make sure the seam is not tight! Sew under sleeve and side seams in one go inside the 1 edge stitch. Sew the hole under the sleeves.

NECK:
Knit up from the right side 1 stitch in each stitch (= 56-64-64-72-72-76 stitches) with short circular needle size 7 mm. Knit 1 round where you decrease 8-12-12-16-16-16 stitches evenly on round = 48-52-52-56-56-60 stitches. Work 9 rounds in the round according to diagram A.1 (= 4 stitches). Cast off with knit over knit and purl over purl - make sure the cast-off edge is not tight.

NOSE:
Cast on 8 stitches with 2 strands orange / tobasco and needle size 7 mm (leave strand lengths of approx. 30 cm; these are used to fill afterwards). Continue working with 1 strand. Purl 1 row. The next row is worked as follows: Knit 1, knit 2 together, knit 5 = 7 stitches. Purl 1 row. Knit 3, knit 2 together, knit 2 = 6 stitches. Purl 1 row. Knit 1, knit 2 together, knit 3 = 5 stitches. Cut the strand (leave a strand-length of approx. 30 cm; this is used for assembly), pull it through the remaining stitches. Sew together in the side and push the long strands from casting-on into the nose as stuffing. Sew the nose to the middle of the snowman’s head.

SCARF:
Cast on 62 stitches with needle size 7 mm and petrol / navy blue. Work 2 rows stocking stitch. Cast off. Thread the scarf through to the wrong side of the jumper at the neck of the snowman and back to the right side on the other side of the neck. Tie the scarf with a knot at the front.

SNOW, BUTTONS AND EYES:
Make 12 knots with off white for snow and 5 knots with a left-over of black / dark grey for eyes and buttons as follows: 1 knot: Cut 1 strand of approx. 40 cm. Make 4 knots around needle size 8 mm - see diagram A.3 (i.e. make 3 LOOSE knots, make 1 more knot and tighten the strand on this knot = 1 knot). Lay the knots on the front piece of the jumper, thread the strands on either side of the knots through the jumper and tie together on the wrong side - see photo.

Diagram

	= knit from right side, purl from wrong side
	= purl from right side, knit from wrong side
	= off white / off white
	= medium grey / medium grey
	= black / dark grey
	= knitting direction
	= single knot

© 1982-2024 DROPS Design A/S We reserve all rights. This document, including all its sub-sections, has copyrights.
What can you do with our patterns? You can share DROPS patterns online, using the pattern original picture, materials, name and number. But you are NOT ALLOWED to reproduce the complete pattern digitally in any way. Yarn stores are welcome to use the DROPS pattern database to promote the sale of our assortment. You can print out our patterns, make as many copies as you’d like. The only thing we ask is that you don't make any changes / additions to the original printed document. And that the patterns according to the DROPS philosophy are given out to the consumers for free. Editorials that wish to publish our patterns in printed books or magazines can contact us for more information. The sale of garments based on DROPS patterns is permitted as long as they are sold as single items or per order. Further commercial use of the patterns is not permitted. It has to be clearly stated that the garment is made based on a design from DROPS DESIGN. The use of clothing labels of which DROPS DESIGN forms part is conditioned by the inclusion of the following text: “A DROPS DESIGN made by …..”. The use of DROPS photos for marketing purposes/sales is only permitted in connection with the use/sale of DROPS products. The photos may not be cut or edited and the logo should be clearly visible.
We reserve the right to withdraw the permission for use of our patterns at any time, notwithstanding the reason.

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

These step-by-step tutorials might also help you:

Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size is only meant as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

How do I use the yarn calculator?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn calculator, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the calculator will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be calculated separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn calculator

Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn calculator, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn calculator will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

What size should I knit?

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a tension/gauge swatch

Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Why does my garment pill?

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Anu Laaksolehto wrote:

Mallin ohjeen mukaan ostettu lanka loppui kesken, vaikka tehty ohjeen mukaan. Tarve olisi ollut yhdelle harmaalle kerälle.

10.12.2023 - 17:30

SB Van Den Brink wrote:

Waar kan ik het telpatroon A3 vinden?

11.11.2022 - 16:56

Raquel wrote:

Hola, me gustaría saber si este patrón se puede hacer con agujas rectas de una sola punta. Gracias

09.11.2021 - 19:17

DROPS Design answered:

Hola Raquel, se puede. Happy knitting!

10.11.2021 - 08:22

Carmen wrote:

Hola, Hace unos días que la pàgina web no funciona del todo bien. No carga los patrones ni las fotos. He provado con diferentes navegadores, pero no funciona bien con ninguno. Es provisional? He comprado la lana que necesito para este modelo y me gustaría poder ver el patrón con sus fotos. Muchas grácias y un saludo cordial.

05.10.2021 - 10:44

Hola Carmen, esta situacion es provisional. Perdónanos, estamos tratando de arreglar esto.

05.10.2021 - 11:26

Nikki B wrote:

If it’s knit from top down why is the snowman pattern A2 upside down ?? I think this might be confusing for some knitters

08.08.2021 - 00:26

Erika wrote:

Lieve DD , die verhouding van mijn proeflap is 11 en1/2 steek . Met een lagere priemdikte = 6en1/2 statt 7 is het bekomen breisel iets te vast om goed te zijn . Wat beraadt u mij . Vriendelijke Groet van Erika

15.11.2020 - 18:34

Dag Erika,

Als je bij een naalddikte van 8 mm 11,5 steken in de breedte hebt, dan zou ik dat aanhouden. Kijk of je evt. wat minder steken op wilt zetten, zodat de breedte van de panden weer overeenkomen.

18.11.2020 - 12:15

Sian Brown wrote:

I am working on a book on intarsia for Crowwod Press and would love to show the image of the cover of the pattern as an example of Christmas intarsia jumpers. Could you please let me know who to contact about this. Thnaks. Regards Sian.

20.03.2020 - 12:45

Dear Mrs Brown, can you please write us at media@garnstudio.com ? Thank you very much!

20.03.2020 - 14:40

NicZwick wrote:

Guten Tag, wie ist das gemeint mit: 4-4-4-2-2-2 Reihen ohne Zunahmen stricken. Die Arbeit hat eine Länge von ca. 20-21-23-23-24-27 cm. DIE ARBEIT WIRD NUN AB HIER GEMESSEN! Nun am Ende der nächsten 2 Reihen, d.h. beidseitig, je 2-2-3-3-4-4 neue Maschen für die Armausschnitte anschlagen = 52-56-60-66-72-80 Maschen. Muss ich zuerst 4 Reihen stricken und dann noch zwei extra und erst in diesen die M für den Arm anschlagen? Mfg Nicole

17.02.2020 - 09:58

Liebe NicZwick, Sie stricken zuerst 4 Reihen dann am Ende der 2 nächsten Reihen schlagen Sie 2 neuen Maschen an. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

17.02.2020 - 12:46

Karin wrote:

Hello, I'm not sure which size to choose, my height is 158cm and weight 59 and bust 90 but I want it to fit a little loose

10.11.2019 - 06:50

Dear Karin, for sizing please refer to the shcematics drawing at the bottom of the pattern, it has the measurements of the sweater. If you are unsure, take an existing sweater of yours that you find comfortable and compar the sizes givenon the drawing. Happy Knitting!

10.11.2019 - 10:55

Kathrin wrote:

Bei mir fällt der Pullover mega-riesig aus. Ich habe Gr. L gestrickt mit Eskimo und Nadeln Nr. 8, die Hüftbreite war dann bei 73!!! cm (anstatt 53). Ich stricke nun Gr. S mit Nadelstärke 7 und hoffe, dass ich zu einem tragbaren Ergebnis komme. Ansonsten muss ich das ganze noch umrechnen... Die Größen sind wirklich sehr reichlich bemessen.

02.02.2019 - 12:30

Liebe Kathrin, stimmte Ihre Maschenprobe? mit 11 M = 10 cm, haben Sie dann 60 M vor dem Bündchen = ca 54 cm., etwas weniger mit A.1 und Nadeln Nr7. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

04.02.2019 - 14:46

	DROPS Snow uni colour 100% Wool	2.00 £ /50g	Order
	DROPS Snow mix 100% Wool	2.30 £ /50g	Order

	DROPS Snow uni colour 100% Wool 2.00 £ /50g Order
	DROPS Snow mix 100% Wool 2.30 £ /50g Order

Frosty's Christmas

Christmas jumper with raglan and snowman, worked top down. Sizes S - XXXL. The piece is worked in DROPS Snow or DROPS Wish.

Pattern instructions

Diagram

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Frosty's Christmas

Christmas jumper with raglan and snowman, worked top down. Sizes S - XXXL. The piece is worked in DROPS Snow or DROPS Wish.

Diagram explanations

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