Clicking the ORDER button will redirect you to Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd website
The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!
Frosty's Christmas / DROPS 183-13
Change language:
English (US/in)#frostyschristmassweater
DROPS design: Pattern ee-597
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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here
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Clicking the ORDER button will redirect you to Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd website
The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!
All measurements in charts are in cm.
= knit from right side, purl from wrong side | |
= purl from right side, knit from wrong side | |
= off white | |
= medium grey | |
= black | |
= knitting direction | |
= single knot |
Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.
These step-by-step tutorials might also help you:
Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?
Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.
The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.
The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.
See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge
See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch
How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?
The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.
Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?
The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.
Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.
See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?
What are the yarn groups?
All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.
How do I use the yarn converter?
At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).
If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.
Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?
Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.
It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.
The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.
What size should I knit?
If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.
You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.
See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart
Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?
The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.
Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.
See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge
See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch
Why is the pattern worked top-down?
Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.
The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.
How do I work according to a knitting diagram?
The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.
When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.
When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.
See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams
How do I work according to a crochet diagram?
The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.
When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.
When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.
When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.
The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.
See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams
How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?
Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.
The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.
See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams
See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams
Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?
The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.
Where on the garment is the length measured?
The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.
See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing
What is a repeat?
Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.
Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?
Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.
Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?
The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.
Why increase in the cast-off edge?
It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.
See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)
How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?
To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.
See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately
How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?
Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.
See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open
Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?
Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.
See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?
Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?
Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.
Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!
How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?
If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.
Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.
How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?
All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.
Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding
Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:
1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.
2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.
3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.
4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.
Why does my garment pill?
Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.
You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.
Frosty's Christmas |
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Jumper with raglan and snowman, worked top down. Sizes S - XXXL. The piece is worked in DROPS Snow or DROPS Wish.
DROPS 183-13 |
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INFORMATION FOR PATTERN: GARTER STITCH (back and forth): 1 ridge = knit 2 rows. PATTERN: See diagrams A.1 to A.3. Diagram A.3 shows a knot. Diagram A.2 (snowman): Work the entire diagram in stockinette stitch. Work with 3 balls to avoid long yarn jumps on wrong side. I.e. work with 1 ball medium gray on each side of sweater and 1 ball pattern color in the middle of sweater. NOTE! To avoid holes at color change twine the yarns together. INCREASE TIP: All increases are done from right side. Work 1 edge stitch in garter stitch, knit 1, 1 yarn over, work until 2 stitches remain, 1 yarn over, knit 1, 1 edge stitch in garter stitch. On next row purl yarn overs to make holes. DECREASE TIP (applies to sleeves): All decreases are done from the right side. Decrease after 1 edge stitch as follows: Slip 1 stitch knitwise, knit 1, pass slipped stitch over stitch worked. Decrease before 1 edge stitch as follows: Begin 2 stitches before edge stitch and knit 2 together. BIND-OFF TIP: To avoid a tight bind-off edge you may use a needle ½ size larger. ---------------------------------------------------------- SWEATER: Worked back and forth on circular needle, top down. Work front and back piece and sleeves back and forth separately. This is done to make it easier to work pattern. Then sew the parts together stitch by stitch along raglan increase and in the sides. Work neck edge in the round at the end. BACK PIECE: Cast on 22-24-24-28-30-34 stitches (including 1 edge stitch in each side) on circular needle size 8 mm / US 11 with medium gray. Purl 1 row from wrong side. Then work in stockinette stitch with 1 edge stitch in GARTER STITCH - see explanation above - in each side. On first row, increase 1 stitch in each side - read INCREASE TIP above! Increase like this every other row 13-14-15-16-17-19 times in total = 48-52-54-60-64-72 stitches - REMEMBER THE GAUGE! Work 4-4-4-2-2-2 rows without increases. Piece measures approx. 20-21-23-23-24-27 cm / 8"-8¼"-9"-9"-9½"-10½". NOW MEASURE PIECE FROM HERE! Then cast on 2-2-3-3-4-4 new stitches for armholes at the end of the next 2 rows = 52-56-60-66-72-80 stitches. Continue in stockinette stitch with 1 edge stitch in garter stitch in each side until piece measures 30-29-30-31-32-30 cm / 11¾"-11½"-11¾"-12¼"-12½"-11¾". Switch to circular needle size 7 mm / US 10.75, work 1 row in stockinette stitch while increasing 2-2-2-0-2-2 stitches evenly = 54-58-62-66-74-82 stitches. Then work as follows: 1 edge stitch in garter stitch, work A.1 (= 4 stitches) until 1 stitch remains, work 1 edge stitch in garter stitch. Continue until A.1 has been worked vertically. Bind off with knit over knit and purl over purl - read BIND-OFF TIP above. FRONT PIECE: Cast on 22-24-24-28-30-34 stitches (including 1 edge stitch in each side) on circular needle size 8 mm / US 11 with medium gray. Purl 1 row from wrong side. Then work in stockinette stitch with 1 edge stitch in garter stitch in each side. On first row begin increase as on back piece. Continue increase as on back piece - AT THE SAME TIME when there are 40-40-44-44-50-56 stitches on needle, begin pattern. I.e. work next row as follows (including increase in each side): Read PATTERN above! Work 1 edge stitch in garter stitch, knit 1, 1 yarn over (= increase), knit 5-5-7-7-10-13, PATTERN A.2 (= 26 stitches), knit 5-5-7-7-10-13, 1 yarn over (= increase), knit 1 and 1 edge stitch in garter stitch = 42-42-46-46-52-58 stitches. Continue pattern, continue increase in each side as on back piece = 48-52-54-60-64-72 stitches. Work 4-4-4-2-2-2 rows without increases. Piece measures approx. 20-21-23-23-24-27 cm / 8"-8¼"-9"-9"-9½"-10½". NOW MEASURE PIECE FROM HERE! Cast on new stitches for armholes as on back piece = 52-56-60-66-72-80 stitches. Continue stockinette stitch and pattern with 1 edge stitch in garter stitch in each side. When A.2 has been worked vertically, piece measures approx. 29-27-27-27-26-25 cm / 11½"-10½"-10½"-10½"-10¼"-9¾". Then continue with medium gray. Continue as before until piece measures 30-29-30-31-32-30 cm / 11¾"-11½"-11¾"-12¼"-12½"-11¾". Switch to circular needle size 7 mm / US 10.75, work 1 row in stockinette stitch while increasing 2-2-2-0-2-2 stitches evenly = 54-58-62-66-74-82 stitches. Then work as follows: 1 edge stitch in garter stitch, work A.1 (= 4 stitches) until 1 stitch remains, work 1 edge stitch in garter stitch. Continue until A.1 has been worked vertically. Bind off stitches with knit over knit and purl over purl - make sure to avoid a tight bind-off edge. SLEEVE: Worked back and forth on circular needle, top down. Cast on 10-12-12-12-10-8 stitches (including 1 edge stitch in each side) on circular needle size 8 mm / US 11 with medium gray. Purl 1 row from wrong side. Then work in stockinette stitch. On next row, increase 1 stitch in each side - remember INCREASE TIP! Increase like this every other row 13-14-15-16-17-19 times in total = 36-40-42-44-44-46 stitches. Work 4-4-4-2-2-2 rows without increases. Piece measures approx. 20-21-23-23-24-27 cm / 8"-8¼"-9"-9"-9½"-10½". NOW MEASURE PIECE FROM HERE! Then cast on 2-2-3-3-4-4 new stitches for armholes at the end of the next 2 rows = 40-44-48-50-52-54 stitches. Continue in stockinette stitch with 1 edge stitch in garter stitch in each side. When piece measures 2 cm / ¾" in all sizes, decrease 1 stitch in each side - read DECREASE TIP above. Decrease like this every 7-5-4-3½-3½-3 cm / 2¾"-2"-1½"-1¼"-1¼"-1⅛" 6-8-9-10-10-11 times in total = 28-28-30-30-32-32 stitches. Continue until piece measures 41-40-39-39-39-37 cm / 16"-15¾"-15¼"-15¼"-15¼"-14½" (shorter measurements in the larger sizes because of wider neck and longer yoke). Switch to circular needle size 7 mm / US 10.75, work 1 row in stockinette stitch while increasing 2-2-0-0-2-2 stitches evenly = 30-30-30-30-34-34 stitches. Then work as follows: 1 edge stitch in garter stitch, work A.1 (= 4 stitches) until 1 stitch remains, work 1 edge stitch in garter stitch. Work like this for 4 cm / 1½". Bind off stitches with knit over knit and purl over purl - make sure to avoid a tight bind-off edge. Work another sleeve the same way. ASSEMBLY: Sew sleeves to front and back piece - sew inside 1 edge stitch in garter stitch - NOTE: Make sure that to avoid a tight seam. Sew underarm and side seams in one inside 1 edge stitch. NECK: Pick up from right side 1 stitch in every stitch (= 56-64-64-72-72-76 stitches) on a short circular needle size 7 mm / US 10.75. Knit 1 round while decreasing 8-12-12-16-16-16 stitches evenly = 48-52-52-56-56-60 stitches. Work 3 rounds according to diagram A.1 (= 4 stitches). Bind off stitches with knit over knit and purl over purl - make sure to avoid a tight bind-off edge. NOSE: Cast on 8 stitches with 2 strands orange on needle size 7 mm / US 10.75 (leave approx. 30 cm / 11¾" yarn, used for filling later). Then work with 1 strand. Purl 1 row. Work next row as follows: Knit 1, knit 2 together, knit 5 = 7 stitches. Purl 1 row. Knit 3, knit 2 together, knit 2 = 6 stitches. Purl 1 row. Knit 1, knit 2 together, knit 3 = 5 stitches. Cut the strand (let the yarn end be approx. 30 cm / 11¾" long; used for assembly) and pull it through the remaining stitches, tighten together. Sew together in the side and place the long strands from cast-on inside the nose as filling. Fasten the nose in the middle of snowman’s head. SCARF: Cast on 62 stitches on needle size 7 mm / US 10.75 with turquoise. Work 2 rows in stockinette stitch. Bind off. Pull scarf through sweater at the neck on snowman and up on right side on the other side of neck. Tie the scarf together with a double knot at the front. SNOW, BUTTONS AND EYES: Make 12 knots with off white for snow and 5 knots with some left-over black for buttons and eyes as follows: 1 knot: Cut 1 strand of 40 cm / 15¾". Make 4 knots around a needle size 8 mm / US 11 - see diagram A.3 (i.e. make 3 LOOSE knots, make 1 more and tighten the strand on this knot = 1 knot). Place knots over front piece on sweater, pull yarn ends on each side of a stitch on sweater and tie on the wrong side - see photo. |
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Diagram explanations |
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Have you made this or any other of our designs? Tag your pictures in social media with #dropsdesign so we can see them! Do you need help with this pattern?You'll find 28 tutorial videos, a Comments/Questions area and more by visiting the pattern on garnstudio.com. © 1982-2024 DROPS Design A/S. We reserve all rights. This document, including all its sub-sections, has copyrights. Read more about what you can do with our patterns at the bottom of each pattern on our site. Have you finished this pattern? |
With over 40 years in knitting and crochet design, DROPS Design offers one of the most extensive collections of free patterns on the internet - translated to 17 languages. As of today we count 309 catalogs and 11641 patterns - 11632 of which are translated into English (US/in).
We work hard to bring you the best knitting and crochet have to offer, inspiration and advice as well as great quality yarns at incredible prices! Would you like to use our patterns for other than personal use? You can read what you are allowed to do in the Copyright text at the bottom of all our patterns. Happy crafting!
Comments / Questions (12)
Anu Laaksolehto wrote:
Mallin ohjeen mukaan ostettu lanka loppui kesken, vaikka tehty ohjeen mukaan. Tarve olisi ollut yhdelle harmaalle kerälle.
10.12.2023 - 17:30SB Van Den Brink wrote:
Waar kan ik het telpatroon A3 vinden?
11.11.2022 - 16:56Raquel wrote:
Hola, me gustaría saber si este patrón se puede hacer con agujas rectas de una sola punta. Gracias
09.11.2021 - 19:17DROPS Design answered:
Hola Raquel, se puede. Happy knitting!
10.11.2021 - 08:22Carmen wrote:
Hola, Hace unos días que la pàgina web no funciona del todo bien. No carga los patrones ni las fotos. He provado con diferentes navegadores, pero no funciona bien con ninguno. Es provisional? He comprado la lana que necesito para este modelo y me gustaría poder ver el patrón con sus fotos. Muchas grácias y un saludo cordial.
05.10.2021 - 10:44DROPS Design answered:
Hola Carmen, esta situacion es provisional. Perdónanos, estamos tratando de arreglar esto.
05.10.2021 - 11:26Nikki B wrote:
If it’s knit from top down why is the snowman pattern A2 upside down ?? I think this might be confusing for some knitters
08.08.2021 - 00:26Erika wrote:
Lieve DD , die verhouding van mijn proeflap is 11 en1/2 steek . Met een lagere priemdikte = 6en1/2 statt 7 is het bekomen breisel iets te vast om goed te zijn . Wat beraadt u mij . Vriendelijke Groet van Erika
15.11.2020 - 18:34DROPS Design answered:
Dag Erika,
Als je bij een naalddikte van 8 mm 11,5 steken in de breedte hebt, dan zou ik dat aanhouden. Kijk of je evt. wat minder steken op wilt zetten, zodat de breedte van de panden weer overeenkomen.
18.11.2020 - 12:15Sian Brown wrote:
I am working on a book on intarsia for Crowwod Press and would love to show the image of the cover of the pattern as an example of Christmas intarsia jumpers. Could you please let me know who to contact about this. Thnaks. Regards Sian.
20.03.2020 - 12:45DROPS Design answered:
Dear Mrs Brown, can you please write us at media@garnstudio.com ? Thank you very much!
20.03.2020 - 14:40NicZwick wrote:
Guten Tag, wie ist das gemeint mit: 4-4-4-2-2-2 Reihen ohne Zunahmen stricken. Die Arbeit hat eine Länge von ca. 20-21-23-23-24-27 cm. DIE ARBEIT WIRD NUN AB HIER GEMESSEN! Nun am Ende der nächsten 2 Reihen, d.h. beidseitig, je 2-2-3-3-4-4 neue Maschen für die Armausschnitte anschlagen = 52-56-60-66-72-80 Maschen. Muss ich zuerst 4 Reihen stricken und dann noch zwei extra und erst in diesen die M für den Arm anschlagen? Mfg Nicole
17.02.2020 - 09:58DROPS Design answered:
Liebe NicZwick, Sie stricken zuerst 4 Reihen dann am Ende der 2 nächsten Reihen schlagen Sie 2 neuen Maschen an. Viel Spaß beim stricken!
17.02.2020 - 12:46Karin wrote:
Hello, I'm not sure which size to choose, my height is 158cm and weight 59 and bust 90 but I want it to fit a little loose
10.11.2019 - 06:50DROPS Design answered:
Dear Karin, for sizing please refer to the shcematics drawing at the bottom of the pattern, it has the measurements of the sweater. If you are unsure, take an existing sweater of yours that you find comfortable and compar the sizes givenon the drawing. Happy Knitting!
10.11.2019 - 10:55Kathrin wrote:
Bei mir fällt der Pullover mega-riesig aus. Ich habe Gr. L gestrickt mit Eskimo und Nadeln Nr. 8, die Hüftbreite war dann bei 73!!! cm (anstatt 53). Ich stricke nun Gr. S mit Nadelstärke 7 und hoffe, dass ich zu einem tragbaren Ergebnis komme. Ansonsten muss ich das ganze noch umrechnen... Die Größen sind wirklich sehr reichlich bemessen.
02.02.2019 - 12:30DROPS Design answered:
Liebe Kathrin, stimmte Ihre Maschenprobe? mit 11 M = 10 cm, haben Sie dann 60 M vor dem Bündchen = ca 54 cm., etwas weniger mit A.1 und Nadeln Nr7. Viel Spaß beim stricken!
04.02.2019 - 14:46